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Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

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mike(at)learningplanet.co
Guest

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 7:34 am Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

For those of you who have used the Mcmaster-Carr door seals, I'm interested in knowing how much (if any) you decided to build up the inside of the cabin frame around the door opening? I've seen posts about the flange ending up being too thin. I've also seen reference to gluing the door seals in place and I'm wondering if this is because of the thinness of the flange or if I need to plan on gluing as well.



One more thing that I noticed in my trial fit...the seal along the bottom of the door opening doesn't compress very much (maybe 1/16" when the door is in the closed position. Is this adequate for the seal to function properly in flight, or should I be looking for ways to bring the seal closer to the door.



Regards,

Mike Schipper

#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

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Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 8:01 am Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

I didn't build up any portion of the cabin frame door opening. But there were several places that I needed to thin the frame edges. (most memorable was the corners at the top of the doors where the fiberglass was extremely thick. I know others have found it necessary to build them up some. I believe it is a function of 2 things:

 1. How you fit your doors. I don't think any 2 RV10's have the same door fit. 

 2, Also, how you go about removing the material. By that I mean, since the edge of the cabin frame 'twists' as it goes from vertical to horiz. you need to trim the frame so that the bulb of the seal will contact the door at the same relative angle (flat). So as you begin trimming the door frame at the bottom of the door the 'cut' is almost at a right angle to the door channel, and as you extend up the door and as the frame curves, you need to keep the cut at the same relative angle. When you get to the upper corners this will result in a relatively sharp and wide edge for the door seal to clamp on, as opposed to the aprox 3/16" edge at the bottom.

 The door seal material, is made of alum and wrapped in vinyl. inside of the channel are 'teeth' that are there to grip on to what ever material  the frame is made of. (fiberglass in our case). A carefully wielded rubber mallet does a good job of mating the seal to the frame. HOWEVER, you will find that when you enter/exit the plane you will find yourself grabbing on to the door frame.and seal. This will cause the alum channel to expand and the seal will loosen. I found it necessary to glue mine, I used Proseal, others have used autobody trim cement.

 

 Deems Davis

 N519PJ

 www.deemsrv10.com

 

 On 5/9/2010 8:31 AM, Michael Schipper wrote: [quote]    	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> (mike(at)learningplanet.com)



For those of you who have used the Mcmaster-Carr door seals, I'm interested in knowing how much (if any) you decided to build up the inside of the cabin frame around the door opening? I've seen posts about the flange ending up being too thin. I've also seen reference to gluing the door seals in place and I'm wondering if this is because of the thinness of the flange or if I need to plan on gluing as well.



One more thing that I noticed in my trial fit...the seal along the bottom of the door opening doesn't compress very much (maybe 1/16" when the door is in the closed position. Is this adequate for the seal to function properly in flight, or should I be looking for ways to bring the seal closer to the door.



Regards,

Mike Schipper

#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

  	
 [b]

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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mike(at)learningplanet.co
Guest

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:24 am Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

Thanks Deems, that is helpful information. I have referenced the pictures on your site many times. I agree that it seems like each door installation is unique (In my case I have a green cabin top and pink doors). 



Another problem area appears to be around the gas strut attach bracket. Did you just cut the channel and keep the "bulb" intact above the bracket?

Thanks,

Mike Schipper

#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com



On May 9, 2010, at 11:01 AM, Deems Davis wrote:

[quote]  I didn't build up any portion of the cabin frame door opening. But there were several places that I needed to thin the frame edges. (most memorable was the corners at the top of the doors where the fiberglass was extremely thick. I know others have found it necessary to build them up some. I believe it is a function of 2 things:

 1. How you fit your doors. I don't think any 2 RV10's have the same door fit. 

 2, Also, how you go about removing the material. By that I mean, since the edge of the cabin frame 'twists' as it goes from vertical to horiz. you need to trim the frame so that the bulb of the seal will contact the door at the same relative angle (flat). So as you begin trimming the door frame at the bottom of the door the 'cut' is almost at a right angle to the door channel, and as you extend up the door and as the frame curves, you need to keep the cut at the same relative angle. When you get to the upper corners this will result in a relatively sharp and wide edge for the door seal to clamp on, as opposed to the aprox 3/16" edge at the bottom.

 The door seal material, is made of alum and wrapped in vinyl. inside of the channel are 'teeth' that are there to grip on to what ever material  the frame is made of. (fiberglass in our case). A carefully wielded rubber mallet does a good job of mating the seal to the frame. HOWEVER, you will find that when you enter/exit the plane you will find yourself grabbing on to the door frame.and seal. This will cause the alum channel to expand and the seal will loosen. I found it necessary to glue mine, I used Proseal, others have used autobody trim cement.

 

 Deems Davis

 N519PJ

 www.deemsrv10.com

 

 On 5/9/2010 8:31 AM, Michael Schipper wrote:  	  Quote: 	
		      	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> (mike(at)learningplanet.com)



For those of you who have used the Mcmaster-Carr door seals, I'm interested in knowing how much (if any) you decided to build up the inside of the cabin frame around the door opening? I've seen posts about the flange ending up being too thin. I've also seen reference to gluing the door seals in place and I'm wondering if this is because of the thinness of the flange or if I need to plan on gluing as well.



One more thing that I noticed in my trial fit...the seal along the bottom of the door opening doesn't compress very much (maybe 1/16" when the door is in the closed position. Is this adequate for the seal to function properly in flight, or should I be looking for ways to bring the seal closer to the door.



Regards,

Mike Schipper

#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

  	
 

	


[b]

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 11:54 am Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

 	  Quote: 	
		     

   

   Another problem area appears to be around the gas strut attach bracket. Did you just cut the channel and keep the "bulb" intact above the bracket?

 	
 

 

 Exactly

 

 

 Deems

 [quote]   

   

   Thanks,

   Mike Schipper

   #40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

   

   

   

      On May 9, 2010, at 11:01 AM, Deems Davis wrote:

       	  Quote: 	
		       I didn't build up any portion of the cabin frame door opening. But there were several places that I needed to thin the frame edges. (most memorable was the corners at the top of the doors where the fiberglass was extremely thick. I know others have found it necessary to build them up some. I believe it is a function of 2 things:

 1. How you fit your doors. I don't think any 2 RV10's have the same door fit. 

 2, Also, how you go about removing the material. By that I mean, since the edge of the cabin frame 'twists' as it goes from vertical to horiz. you need to trim the frame so that the bulb of the seal will contact the door at the same relative angle (flat). So as you begin trimming the door frame at the bottom of the door the 'cut' is almost at a right angle to the door channel, and as you extend up the door and as the frame curves, you need to keep the cut at the same relative angle. When you get to the upper corners this will result in a relatively sharp and wide edge for the door seal to clamp on, as opposed to the aprox 3/16" edge at the bottom.

 The door seal material, is made of alum and wrapped in vinyl. inside of the channel are 'teeth' that are there to grip on to what ever material  the frame is made of. (fiberglass in our case). A carefully wielded rubber mallet does a good job of mating the seal to the frame. HOWEVER, you will find that when you enter/exit the plane you will find yourself grabbing on to the door frame.and seal. This will cause the alum channel to expand and the seal will loosen. I found it necessary to glue mine, I used Proseal, others have used autobody trim cement.

     

 Deems Davis

 N519PJ

     www.deemsrv10.com

     

 On 5/9/2010 8:31 AM, Michael Schipper wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		          	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com>



For those of you who have used the Mcmaster-Carr door seals, I'm interested in knowing how much (if any) you decided to build up the inside of the cabin frame around the door opening? I've seen posts about the flange ending up being too thin. I've also seen reference to gluing the door seals in place and I'm wondering if this is because of the thinness of the flange or if I need to plan on gluing as well.



One more thing that I noticed in my trial fit...the seal along the bottom of the door opening doesn't compress very much (maybe 1/16" when the door is in the closed position. Is this adequate for the seal to function properly in flight, or should I be looking for ways to bring the seal closer to the door.



Regards,

Mike Schipper

#40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

  	
     

	
     

   



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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sun May 09, 2010 2:12 pm Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

I had to build out the flange along the bottom of the door slightly.   

Also cut flange back and ran seal continously around strut.

Bill



Michael Schipper wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 For those of you who have used the Mcmaster-Carr door seals, I'm interested in knowing how much (if any) you decided to build up the inside of the cabin frame around the door opening? I've seen posts about the flange ending up being too thin. I've also seen reference to gluing the door seals in place and I'm wondering if this is because of the thinness of the flange or if I need to plan on gluing as well.



 One more thing that I noticed in my trial fit...the seal along the bottom of the door opening doesn't compress very much (maybe 1/16" when the door is in the closed position. Is this adequate for the seal to function properly in flight, or should I be looking for ways to bring the seal closer to the door.



 Regards,

 Mike Schipper

 #40576 - finishing - www.rvten.com

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

hotwheels

Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 240

Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:53 am Post subject: Re: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

Photos? Especially of running the seal around the door hinges and/or strut area.

Thanks,

Jay

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MauleDriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat May 15, 2010 12:39 pm Post subject: Cabin frame and Mcmaster-Carr door seals

You've probably already received some photos but here are mine





jayb wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Photos? Especially of running the seal around the door hinges and/or strut area.

 Thanks,

 Jay





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=297349#297349

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