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Lee Steensland

Joined: 10 Apr 2008
Posts: 18
Location: Spokane-ish- WA

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 7:05 pm Post subject: upgrade question

Who knew you had to be a machinist to install the upgrade!



I'm learning about all sorts of new things: transfer punches, reamers,

solid rivets.



The plans state that the main spar attach bolt holes in the center spar

should be drilled undersized then reamed to the proper diameter (5/16).

To me that appears to be a pretty open ended statement. If you google

"reamer" you get many and varied hits for all different kinds of

reamers. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what kind of reamer we

should use and where to get one?



Should we also ream the bolt holes for 6-ZU-2-4?



What have other people done?



Thanks!

psm(at)att.net
Guest

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:03 pm Post subject: upgrade question

Hi Lee,



Reamers do indeed come in a lot of different forms.  For this kind of work, I prefer hand reamers.  They tend to be several inches longer than other kinds and mount in tap holders.  I selected "Left hand spiral, Right Hand cut" for my Zodiac XL spar work, but other choices would probably work about the same.



What you probably don't want is "Chucking Reamer" types.  These are meant for milling machines and fancier "Machining Centers" where the machine provides the stability rather than the shape of the reamer.



I like to drill 10 or 20 thousandths undersize before reaming a hole in aluminum.



There are many "Cutting Tool" vendors that all supply good stuff.  Travers tool is a good one on the East coast, MSC works well in most parts of the USA.  



I don't know which holes should be reamed, so I'll let someone else address that question.  I personally think this is a big issue when a wing is attached to the fuselage with one bolt, but when there are six of them I doubt the perfection of the hole is a big deal.



Paul

XL installing upgrade (slowly)



--

Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:08 pm Post subject: upgrade question

Hi Lee



I am definitely not a machinist, but I can tell you what I am doing, though 

I am still in the early stages. Most of what I've learned about reamers was 

by buying the wrong thing at $18/ea.



I think the best ones are the "piloted reamers," e.g.,



http://browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&txtSearch=reamer&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&catpageindex=2&ProductID=1010



which has a short pilot of 0.2969" dia. to fit in your sub-5/16" pilot 

hole, followed by a section of 0.3125", to ream the hole precisely to 

5/16". That assumes that you hold your drill perfectly normal to the 

spar---or are using a good drill press. There are (slightly) cheaper 

reamers that are not piloted.



I don't trust my hand drill skills, so I think I'll bolt my drill press to 

my work table for the reaming.



I'm also using reamers for the bolt joints through the 1/8" spar cap, spar 

cap doubler, web, and spar root doubler plate. I'm using AN4's rather than 

AN3's, because the holes in my spar cap and my spar cap doubler are 

substantially larger than 0.1875" . I bought a .247 x .231 HSS Piloted 

Chucking Reamer for those holes (my AN4's measure about 0.245").



Good call on the 6-ZU-2-4 bolts. You're way ahead of me. I believe that the 

bolts in the main spar are loaded primarily in shear (so a tight bolt hole 

is critical to avoid stress concentrations, which can lead to fatigue 

failure). I suspect the center spar bolt are in tension between the bolted 

spar caps, but in shear between the spar caps and the spar uprights. In any 

case, I do not believe that a tight bolt hole hurts (assuming that holes 

line up in the different layers), so I'll plan to use my .247 x .231 AN4- 

piloted reamer for those holes also. 'Good idea.



Terry

At 08:03 PM 5/18/2010 -0700, Lee Steensland wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Who knew you had to be a machinist to install the upgrade!



I'm learning about all sorts of new things: transfer punches, reamers,

solid rivets.



The plans state that the main spar attach bolt holes in the center spar

should be drilled undersized then reamed to the proper diameter (5/16).

To me that appears to be a pretty open ended statement. If you google

"reamer" you get many and varied hits for all different kinds of

reamers. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what kind of reamer we

should use and where to get one?



Should we also ream the bolt holes for 6-ZU-2-4?



What have other people done?



Thanks!


	




Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

Brady

Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 182
Location: Poulsbo, WA

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:25 am Post subject: Re: upgrade question

Lee,

The reamer you want to use is called a chucking reamer.

It has straight flutes and can be turned by hand or by a drill motor.

I suggest you turn it by hand.

A piloted reamer is best but not totally necessary.

5/16â€ is .3125â€ 

The upgrade instructions specify the tolerance to be +.004â€

This means you holes cannot be larger than .3165â€or you will need to go to an over sized bolt that is less than 3/8th.

these are very expensive.

The reamer size you want is .3125"



It is not necessary to ream the bolts in the main spar.

These bolts are not in shear really, they are mostly in tension.

as the spar is stressed the caps want to separate or bend away from each other. this would allow them to collapse.

The bolt (&or rivets) hold them together and force them to flex in the correct direction which is edge wise.



Clear as mud?



I hope this helps,

Brady

_________________
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:49 am Post subject: Re: upgrade question

Lee,



Brady and I are machinists, here is a picture of how I keep things square when I can't use a machine.  It's a vee block, not show is my hand holding it in place while I use the reamer and cutting oil everywhere.



http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=24457&row=671



I used this method on one upgrade and the fit was good on all the holes.



YMMV



Practice, practice, practice, and oh yeah, practice.

_________________
Ron Lendon
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
CH 601 XLB
N601LT - Flying
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
https://sites.google.com/site/corvairenginedata/

JohnDRead(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 9:28 pm Post subject: upgrade question

Brady;

             I  would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight flutes are designed to be  driven by a machine tool such as a milling machine or a lathe. Reaming by  hand is best done with a hand reamer which has spiral flutes and a taper to the  diameter for a short distance. 

  

 Regards,  John



CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300



Cell: 719-494-4567

Home:  303-648-3261   

  In a message dated 5/19/2010 11:26:28 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  brady(at)magnificentmachine.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith601-List message posted by: "Brady"    <brady(at)magnificentmachine.com>



Lee,

The reamer you want to use    is called a chucking reamer.

It has straight flutes and can be turned by    hand or by a drill motor.

I suggest you turn it by hand.

A piloted    reamer is handy but not totally necessary.

5/16Ã¢â‚¬Â is .3125Ã¢â‚¬Â 

The    upgrade instructions specify the tolerance to be +.004Ã¢â‚¬Â

This means you    holes cannot be larger than .3165Ã¢â‚¬Âor you will need to go to an over sized    bolt that is less than 3/8th.

these are very expensive.

The    reamer size you want is .3125"



It is not necessary to ream the bolts in    the main spar.

These bolts are not in shear really, they are mostly in    tension.

as the spar is stressed the caps want to separate or bend away    from each other. this would allow them to collapse.

The bolt (&or    rivets) hold them together and force them to flex in the correct direction    which is edge wise.



Clear as mud?



I hope this    helps,

Brady



--------

Brady McCormick

Poulsbo,    WA

www.magnificentmachine.com





Read this topic online    here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298202#298202===============================================

_-=    Use the  ties  Day  ================================================               - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS  ================================================             - List Contribution Web Site  sp;                             ===================================================



	




  [quote][b]

mhubel

Joined: 05 Sep 2009
Posts: 141

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 4:24 am Post subject: upgrade question

John,

     On the issue of a chucking reamer, I did use one by hand. I don't 

recommend it for everyone. By using the existing hole as an alignment 

guide and then having the hole in the new metal only 0.015 under size, 

it was very easy to get a clean hole. The clear issue is that one must 

not put any side pressure on the existing hole. That is a matter of 

practice. Even a hand reamer can take some metal off the existing hole 

if one is not careful so there is no perfect solution short of standing 

the wing on edge and mounting a "mini" drill press on the spar to ream 

out the holes.

     Even better would be to have a special reamer that only had cutting 

flukes for the first 1/8 inch and then was smooth but the same diameter. 

I have never heard of such a tool.



-- 

Mark Hubelbank

NorthEast Monitoring

2 Clock Tower Place

Suite 555

Maynard, MA, 01754 - USA

mhubel(at)nemon.com

978-443-3955

_________________
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40-3 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
240 hr TAF
Pictures at photo.hubbles.com

zenith-list(at)steensland
Guest

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 8:25 am Post subject: upgrade question

Fortunately I'm in a fairly unique situation. I don't have the center

spar installed nor the wings complete. Everything is free and away from

the plane, so setting it up in a drill press is child's play (for the

most part).





On Thu, 2010-05-20 at 08:23 -0400, Mark Hubelbank wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 John,

      On the issue of a chucking reamer, I did use one by hand. I don't 

 recommend it for everyone. By using the existing hole as an alignment 

 guide and then having the hole in the new metal only 0.015 under size, 

 it was very easy to get a clean hole. The clear issue is that one must 

 not put any side pressure on the existing hole. That is a matter of 

 practice. Even a hand reamer can take some metal off the existing hole 

 if one is not careful so there is no perfect solution short of standing 

 the wing on edge and mounting a "mini" drill press on the spar to ream 

 out the holes.

      Even better would be to have a special reamer that only had cutting 

 flukes for the first 1/8 inch and then was smooth but the same diameter. 

 I have never heard of such a tool.

Brady

Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 182
Location: Poulsbo, WA

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 9:56 am Post subject: Re: upgrade question

 	  JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote: 	
		  Brady;

            ï¿½I  would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight flutes are designed to be  driven by a machine tool such as a milling machine or a lathe. Reaming by  hand is best done with a hand reamer which has spiral flutes and a taper to the  diameter for a short distance. 

  

 Regards,  John

	




John,

Actually that is not true, and I don't think the Reamer can tell who or what is turning it.



Page 807 of the Machinery's Hand Book 26th edition says:

"Hand reamers are made with both straight and helical flutes. Helical flutes provide a shearing cut and are especially useful in reaming holes having keyways or grooves, as these are bridged over by the helical flutes, thus preventing binding or chattering."



Because the hole we are reaming do not have a keyway or grooves (intentionally) a spiral reamer is not necessary.



But every situation is different and everyone's skill level may vary.

I would expect builders to use their noggin.



My advice was free and general.

take it or leave it as you may.

_________________
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com

Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:23 am Post subject: upgrade question

Brady or John

Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you 

use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit 

smaller than the reamer size.

Terry

At 10:56 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:

 > Brady;

 >             ï¿½I  would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight 

 flutes are designed to be  driven by a machine tool such as a milling 

 machine or a lathe. Reaming by  hand is best done with a hand reamer 

 which has spiral flutes and a taper to the  diameter for a short distance.

 >

 >  Regards,  John

 >

 >

 >

John,

Actually that is not true, and I don't think the Reamer can tell who or 

what is turning it.

Page 807 of the Machinery's Hand Book 26th edition says:

"Hand reamers are made with both straight and helical flutes. Helical 

flutes provide a shearing cut and are especially useful in reaming holes 

having keyways or grooves, as these are bridged over by the helical 

flutes, thus preventing binding or chattering."

Because the hole we are reaming do not have a keyway or grooves 

(intentionally) a spiral reamer is not necessary.

But every situation is different and everyone's skill level may vary.

I would expect builders to use their noggin.

My advice was free and general.

take it or leave it as you may.

--------

Brady McCormick

Poulsbo, WA

www.magnificentmachine.com

Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

Ron Lendon

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 685
Location: Clinton Twp., MI

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:39 am Post subject: Re: upgrade question

 	  Terry Phillips wrote: 	
		  Brady or John



Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you 

use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit 

smaller than the reamer size.



Terry

	




Terry,



I used a tap handle like the one in the bottom of the picture. 

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_wrench



Turned the reamer counterclockwise through existing hole till it met the new hole.  Then I turned it clockwise to finish the new hole.  The new hole was .015 small before reaming.

Brady

Joined: 26 May 2008
Posts: 182
Location: Poulsbo, WA

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:40 am Post subject: Re: upgrade question

 	  Terry Phillips wrote: 	
		  Brady or John



Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you 

use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit 

smaller than the reamer size.



Terry



	




Terry,



You can grind 4 flats on it and turn it with a tap handle.

After you modify it will still be usable as in a chuck.



most of mine are modified this way.

_________________
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com

Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:32 pm Post subject: upgrade question

Thank you Brady & Ron.



Between your two posts I think I get the idea. The link to wikipedia which 

had links to reamer articles was especially helpful.



Terry

At 11:40 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, Brady wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

Terry Phillips wrote:

 > Brady or John

 >

 > Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you

 > use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit

 > smaller than the reamer size.

 >

 > Terry

 >

 >

Terry,



You can grind 4 flats on it and turn it with a tap handle.

After you modify it will still be usable as in a chuck.



most of mine are modified this way.



--------

Brady McCormick

Poulsbo, WA

www.magnificentmachine.com


	


At 11:39 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, Ron wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

Terry Phillips wrote:

 > Brady or John

 >

 > Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you

 > use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit

 > smaller than the reamer size.

 >

 > Terry

 >

 >

 >

Terry,



I used a tap handle like the one in the bottom of the picture.



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_wrench



Turned the reamer counterclockwise through existing hole till it met the 

new hole.  Then I turned it clockwise to finish the new hole.  The new 

hole was .015 small before reaming.



--------

Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI

WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing

Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder 

http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon


	


do not archive



Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

chuck960

Joined: 11 Mar 2009
Posts: 44
Location: PA

Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:56 pm Post subject: Re: upgrade question

Why do the bolts have to be smaller than 3/8"?  Is it edge distance that is the problem? With all the drilling and back drilling it's hard to get a perfect hole. The bolt may seem tight but the hole might not be uniform through many layers of material. I thought of drilling a larger hole after all the 5/16 bolts are in place by removing one bolt at a time. A 3/8 bolt is much stronger than 5/16.

Chuck

paulrod36(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 2:04 am Post subject: upgrade question

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Good question. I've heard of several people who have done that, and  apparently, nobody has complained about the result.  While we're at it, do  any of the guys with real-world structural backgrounds have any strong  objections to using AN-3 bolts instead of rivets? Zenith said they don't mind,  and several A&Ps have said it's okay. With the proposed number of bolts in  the spar, the .008 (average) difference isn't going to matter. I guess this goes  back to Chris' comment one time, "You're building a tractor, not a space  shuttle".

  

 Paul R

 [quote]   ---

bill.pagan(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 4:01 am Post subject: upgrade question

I asked the same question after discovering that a couple of my spar bolt holes were out of tolerance (It is a quickbuild and came that way but thats another gripe).  ZAC (Caleb) told me that 3/8 was the maximum you could go to due to edge distances but cautioned that the tolerance was only .004.  If you should go over that, which is easy to do, you would need to replace the spar etc. which would be in excess of $2K.  

 

Bill Pagan 

 



 

   From: chuck960 <chuckde(at)roadrunner.com>

To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Thu, May 20, 2010 11:56:11 PM

Subject: Re: upgrade question



--> Zenith601-List message posted by: "chuck960" <chuckde(at)roadrunner.com (chuckde(at)roadrunner.com)>



Why do the bolts have to be smaller than 3/8"?  Is it edge distance that is the problem? With all the drilling and back drilling it's hard to get a perfect hole. The bolt may seem tight but the hole might not be uniform through many layers of material. I thought of drilling a larger hole after all the 5/16 bolts are in place by removing one bolt at a time. A 3/8 bolt is much stronger than  5/16.

Chuck





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298400#298400





;   bsp;                   -Matt D=============



         [quote][b]

mhubel

Joined: 05 Sep 2009
Posts: 141

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 5:16 am Post subject: upgrade question

Bill,

     Has anyone thought of using metric bolts. I expect there are the 

same grade bolts available (perhaps even better) in 8 mm (about 0.0024 

over and a standard metric size) and 9 mm (0.0418 over or 0.021 under 

3/8, but a hard to get size).



-- 

Mark Hubelbank

NorthEast Monitoring

2 Clock Tower Place

Suite 555

Maynard, MA, 01754 - USA

mhubel(at)nemon.com

978-443-3955

_________________
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40-3 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
240 hr TAF
Pictures at photo.hubbles.com

Afterfxllc(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 7:57 am Post subject: upgrade question

All of this reamer talk got me thinking (Scary Huh) and I went to Lowes and  bought a 5/16 drill bit and just for shits and grins then drilled about 20  holes in a test piece of spar caps that came from the wing jigs and lo and  behold all of my holes done by hand with a drill came out to .312 to .314 and  the bolts were snug so if you are half way careful you should be able to  just drill the holes. 

 And you can also buy oversized NAS bolts for the inept drillers out there.  

 Jeff

  

  In a message dated 5/21/2010 8:16:53 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  mhubel(at)nemon.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    Zenith601-List message posted by: Mark Hubelbank    <mhubel(at)nemon.com>



Bill,

     Has anyone    thought of using metric bolts. I expect there are the 

same grade bolts    available (perhaps even better) in 8 mm (about 0.0024 

over and a standard    metric size) and 9 mm (0.0418 over or 0.021 under 

3/8, but a hard to get    size).



-- 

Mark Hubelbank

NorthEast Monitoring

2 Clock Tower    Place

Suite 555

Maynard, MA, 01754 -  ================================================ Use the  ties  Day  ================================================               - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS  ================================================             - List Contribution Web Site  sp;                             ===================================================



	


  [quote][b]

flyboy3847(at)onecommail.
Guest

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 9:48 am Post subject: upgrade question

We used a reamer but just chucked it up in a hand drill.  That worked fine.  

Leroy Wheeler         601HD plans built just about done flying off the 40 hours.  

         

  

From: owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Afterfxllc(at)aol.com

 Sent: Friday, May 21, 2010 11:56 AM

 To: zenith601-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Re: upgrade question  

  

     

All of this reamer talk got me thinking (Scary Huh) and I went to Lowes and bought a 5/16 drill bit and just for shits and grins then drilled about 20 holes in a test piece of spar caps that came from the wing jigs and lo and behold all of my holes done by hand with a drill came out to .312 to .314 and the bolts were snug so if you are half way careful you should be able to just drill the holes.   

    

And you can also buy oversized NAS bolts for the inept drillers out there.   

    

Jeff  

    

   

      

In a message dated 5/21/2010 8:16:53 A.M. Central Daylight Time, mhubel(at)nemon.com writes:  

   	  Quote: 	
		    

--> Zenith601-List message posted by: Mark Hubelbank <mhubel(at)nemon.com>

 

 Bill,

      Has anyone thought of using metric bolts. I expect there are the 

 same grade bolts available (perhaps even better) in 8 mm (about 0.0024 

 over and a standard metric size) and 9 mm (0.0418 over or 0.021 under 

 3/8, but a hard to get size).

 

 -- 

 Mark Hubelbank

 NorthEast Monitoring

 2 Clock Tower Place

 Suite 555

 Maynard, MA, 01754 - ======================= Use the ties Day =======================              - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS =======================            - List Contribution Web Site sp;                         =

 

 

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JohnDRead(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 9:51 am Post subject: upgrade question

I discussed this option with a friend of mine a retired tool maker who is  making the upgrade to his 601. I am a retired mechanical engineer. If you can  ream the holes for a snug slide fit of A3 bolts into the holes then bolts should  be OK if the holes are over sized then rivets are the safe way to go as they  expand during setting the fill the holes. Just our two cents worth

  

 Regards,  John



CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300



Cell: 719-494-4567

Home:  303-648-3261   

  In a message dated 5/21/2010 4:05:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  paulrod36(at)msn.com writes:

 [quote]      Good question. I've heard of several people who have done that, and    apparently, nobody has complained about the result.  While we're at it,    do any of the guys with real-world structural backgrounds have any strong    objections to using AN-3 bolts instead of rivets? Zenith said they don't mind,    and several A&Ps have said it's okay. With the proposed number of bolts in    the spar, the .008 (average) difference isn't going to matter. I guess this    goes back to Chris' comment one time, "You're building a tractor, not a space    shuttle".

    

   Paul R

   [quote]     ---

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