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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
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 Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 5:21 pm Post subject: Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
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Hate to tell you this Matt:
But I installed the inexpensive Van's capacitive sensors when I built my
tanks and later bought the not-so-inexpensive EI gauge that goes with them.
Another of the Van's solutions that works great. Unfortunately you won't be
able to install the sensors in your finished tanks without some major
surgery (I wouldn't). Taking the tanks off to install the float type sender
is easiest way and shouldn't take but a weekend to do. Been there done that
(to repair an accessable leak) earlier in Delta Mikes flying career.
Definately want to bite the bullet before you paint. I know how you feel
though, spent one of my recent weekends fiddling with my EzPilot trying to
get everything working so "George" can fly once in a while when I look at
charts. It's been a year and a half since the airplane first flew and I
really didn't want to spend my weekend wrenching on the plane but...it was
worth it in the end. Regards
Dean N197DM
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Mark Phillips in TN
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 431
Location: Columbia, TN
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| Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:47 pm Post subject: Replacing Fuel Level Senders |
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If you have the Princeton probes that bend around just inside the tank (in-up-over&down) they can be replaced without a tankcision. I've done this 3 times before giving up on them on a -7A and installing the floats from Van. You will have to bend them a bit to get them out, but with the right combination of wiggling/twisting etc. they will come out. Adding the floats is pretty simple- bend the float arms per instructions, paying close attention to R/L, then set them up on a bench to simulate the tank for adjustment before installing. Mount the sender perpendicular to the bench on some kind of support at the same height as it would be in the tank with the float resting on the bench, and note the float travel distance by measuring from top to bottom on the tank where the sender installs (7-8"?), then adjust the arm to get the correct resistance readings for that travel. Make sure the float will miss the stiffener on the tank bottom so it won't hang up and will get full travel- you can note the location of the stiffener by the rivet line on the tank- check with a dental mirror to see which way the stiffener flange faces.
Just another fun day at the hangar!
Mark Phillips - RV-6A "Mojo", almost 600 hrs, floats recently replaced...
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
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