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Aileron bellcrank wear?

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Tim Juhl

Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 8:45 pm Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

This question is for those who've opened their wings up for modification after putting some flight hours on their aircraft.



Has anyone noticed any wear in the holes where the control cables attach to the aileron bellcrank?  Since there is tension on the cables I wonder whether the hole is elongating in the direction of the tension being applied.  If so, it would seem to me that this would be a good place to install a bushing.



I own a taildragger and one of the things you watch for is that the holes on the rudder horn where the tailwheel springs attach will often wear in such a manner.  The rudder horn is half-inch thick aluminum with steel springs attached - much beefier than the bellcrank.  The springs are under tension, just like the control cables and over time the steel cuts into the softer aluminum.



Comments?



Tim

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_________________
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Almost done! It'll fly in spring!

Louie928

Joined: 15 Nov 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Mosier, OR USA

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: Aileron bellcrank wear?

I wondered the same thing when I saw the aileron bellcrank. I made different ones using a ball bearing for the pivot bearing and bronze bushings for the cable clevis attachments. The bearing and bushings are from Aircraft Spruce. The new bellcrank is a bit lighter than the original. The thickness is the same so the original attachments can be used with the holes drilled to fit the ball bearing ID.

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RightWingAileronBellcrankAccess.jpg

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Louis W. Ott

601XL-B Corvair

mtherr(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 5:44 pm Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

I cannot say for the aileron bearing.  However, it is certainly true for the upper rudder bearing on the HD model.  I made a new part after three years of flying.  After removing the part, however, I did feel that the part was still safe (plenty of edge distance and no noticeable fluttering or vibration in flight).

----------------------------

Michel Therrien CH601-HD, C-GZGQ

  http://mthobby.pcperfect.com/ch601

  http://pages.infinit.net/mthobby

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Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:02 pm Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

Louie



You are a true craftsman. You new bellcrank is a work of art. Do you have a 

drawing of your design? It looks like a very good design improvement.



I'm thinking that I will replace the nylon fairleads for the aileron 

control cables with pulleys. My hope is to reduce the drag in the aileron 

control system, and thereby improve the control harmony. This would not be 

a possibility without aileron counterbalance, but with the counterbalance, 

it should not present a problem. I'm wondering if anyone else has put in 

pulleys?



Terry

At 06:04 PM 6/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I wondered the same thing when I saw the aileron bellcrank. I made 

different ones using a ball bearing for the pivot bearing and bronze 

bushings for the cable clevis attachments. The bearing and bushings are 

from Aircraft Spruce. The new bellcrank is a bit lighter than the 

original. The thickness is the same so the original attachments can be 

used with the holes drilled to fit the ball bearing ID.



--------

Louis W. Ott



601XL beginner Quick Build


	




Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

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_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

psm(at)att.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 8:40 pm Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

Hi Terry,



Before you invest a lot of time and money in changing fairleads to pulleys,

I think you should consider another aspect of the "Control Harmony" issue.



The Zodiac XL has HUGE ailerons.  This means force applied to the control

stick doesn't require much movement of the ailerons to produce roll torque.

It also means the ailerons work quite well all the down to stall speed where

most spam cans lose nearly all control effect.  I believe it is the geometry

and size of the ailerons that makes them feel so stiff in flight rather than

any drag in the control cables.



Good luck,



Paul



XL fighting main spar rivet removal for the upgrade.

--

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Louie928

Joined: 15 Nov 2009
Posts: 32
Location: Mosier, OR USA

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:35 pm Post subject: Re: Aileron bellcrank wear?

Hi Terry,

I do have a drawing I made just to see if it would work. I Printed out a full size example and cut it out from cardboard. I can't remember if any slight changes were done when I cut it from aluminum. I don't think so. The drawing was done in Solidworks. I exported a .jpg file of the drawing so the quality isn't so great. The bronze bushings are Aircraft Spruce P/N FF303-01. Look under Hardware, Bushings. They are $0.19 each. Drill the bushing hole in the bellcrank slightly undersize and press in the bushing. The bellcrank bearing is Aircraft Spruce P/N BC4W10 (AN218-4). Look under Airframe parts, Bearings. It costs $18.95. This bellcrank doesn't require any changes to the normal mount and the geometry is the same as the Zenith bellcrank. Use a washer on top and bottom of the bearing to insure the bearing housing doesn't rub on the support when you tighten the bolt.



I don't know how much drag the fairleads would add to the aileron movement. The cables don't move very far to give full travel. It'll be something I'll check when I connect the controls.



BTW, the SS rivets work great. Thanks



Louie

 	  Terry Phillips wrote: 	
		  Louie



You are a true craftsman. You new bellcrank is a work of art. Do you have a 

drawing of your design? It looks like a very good design improvement.



I'm thinking that I will replace the nylon fairleads for the aileron 

control cables with pulleys. My hope is to reduce the drag in the aileron 

control system, and thereby improve the control harmony. This would not be 

a possibility without aileron counterbalance, but with the counterbalance, 

it should not present a problem. I'm wondering if anyone else has put in 

pulleys?



Terry

At 06:04 PM 6/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I wondered the same thing when I saw the aileron bellcrank. I made 

different ones using a ball bearing for the pivot bearing and bronze 

bushings for the cable clevis attachments. The bearing and bushings are 

from Aircraft Spruce. The new bellcrank is a bit lighter than the 

original. The thickness is the same so the original attachments can be 

used with the holes drilled to fit the ball bearing ID.



--------

Louis W. Ott



601XL beginner Quick Build



	




Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

- The Matronics Zenith601-List Email Forum -

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aileron bellcrank 2d.jpg

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Louis W. Ott

601XL-B Corvair

Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 3:02 pm Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

Hi Paul



I do not have personal experience on the 601XL control harmony problem. My 

total time in 601XL is a 30 minute flight in the factory demo plane.



I am just reacting to various posts on line that suggest that control 

harmony is not good on the 601XL. I think that it is likely that high 

friction in the aileron controls were an important factor in the 

pre-upgrade design to avoid aileron flutter. Normal design practice is to 

eliminate flutter with counterbalanced control surfaces. (If you look at 

almost any certificated airplanes with aluminum skinned ailerons, you will 

find counterbalances.) If one can count on the aileron counterbalances to 

eliminate flutter in the 601XL, then one should be able to replace the 

aileron fairleads with pulleys w/o introducing a new risk of aileron 

flutter. Since the elevator and rudder are not counterbalanced, I would not 

consider replacing the fairleads in those control links.



If you are correct that the high forces for roll control reported for the 

601XL are simply due to the geometry and size of the ailerons, then 

installing pulleys will not improve the control harmony. However, if 

friction in the control links proves to be significant then pulleys might 

make a useful difference. I'm a long way from building my fuselage, so my 

ultimate decision on this item is not imminent. Some other builders have 

replaced the control cables with push-pull rods. I'm very curious if any 

one has replaced the aileron fairleads with pulleys.



Terry

At 09:39 PM 6/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Hi Terry,



Before you invest a lot of time and money in changing fairleads to pulleys,

I think you should consider another aspect of the "Control Harmony" issue.



The Zodiac XL has HUGE ailerons.  This means force applied to the control

stick doesn't require much movement of the ailerons to produce roll torque.

It also means the ailerons work quite well all the down to stall speed where

most spam cans lose nearly all control effect.  I believe it is the geometry

and size of the ailerons that makes them feel so stiff in flight rather than

any drag in the control cables.



Good luck,



Paul


	




Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

- The Matronics Zenith601-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List

_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

Terry Phillips

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 346
Location: Corvallis, MT

Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 10:17 am Post subject: Aileron bellcrank wear?

Hi Louie



Thank you for the details.



Have you tried exporting the drawing to a .png? I find that png's do not 

have the noise that creeps into jpg's at the sharp, black-white boundaries 

in drawings and text. If you could email me a copy of your image, I'd 

appreciate it. Another alternative to jpg's is a pdf. The Windows freebie 

pdf creator from SourceForge is invaluable to me. I'm sure that there are 

Linux equivalents.



'Glad to hear that the SS rivets are proving useful. I used a bunch of them 

on my garage door and they have been perfect. If and when I get the invoice 

from Lehigh-Armstrong, I'll work out the cost split and let you know. I 

called L-H Friday, but it was late and I just got their voice mail.



Thanks for the great idea on improving the aileron bellcrank.



Terry

At 11:35 PM 6/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Hi Terry,

I do have a drawing I made just to see if it would work. I Printed out a 

full size example and cut it out from cardboard. I can't remember if any 

slight changes were done when I cut it from aluminum. I don't think so. 

The drawing was done in Solidworks. I exported a .jpg file of the drawing 

so the quality isn't so great. The bronze bushings are Aircraft Spruce P/N 

FF303-01. Look under Hardware, Bushings. They are $0.19 each. Drill the 

bushing hole in the bellcrank slightly undersize and press in the bushing. 

The bellcrank bearing is Aircraft Spruce P/N BC4W10 (AN218-4). Look under 

Airframe parts, Bearings. It costs $18.95. This bellcrank doesn't require 

any changes to the normal mount and the geometry is the same as the Zenith 

bellcrank. Use a washer on top and bottom of the bearing to insure the 

bearing housing doesn't rub on the support when you tighten the bolt.



I don't know how much drag the fairleads would add to the aileron 

movement. The cables don't move very far to give full travel. It'll be 

something I'll check when I connect the controls.



BTW, the SS rivets work great. Thanks



Louie


	




Terry Phillips

ttp44~at~rkymtn.net

Corvallis MT

ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;

Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive

http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/

- The Matronics Zenith601-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List

_________________
Terry Phillips
Corvallis, MT
ttp44<at>rkymtn.net
Zenith 601XL/Jab 3300 slow build kit - Tail feathers done; working on the wings.

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