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flyadive(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:46 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Roger & Gaggle:
DINO really does not apply anymore. The MINERAL oils were DINO oils. The new stuff such as Exxon Elite and Philips 20W-50 are concurrent with today's 'morden' oils.
The only statement missing from your post is BLENDED 50/50 Synthetics/Natural Oils.
They have proven to be the best of both worlds. Synthetics offers lower friction - Natural offers higher EP rating and Better heat transfer capability.
Were any of you around when Mobile came out with 100% synthetic? They had a few engines seizes and pulled the product quickly. They then added natural oil to the blend and came up with a very good oil.
Foaming is another issue that was solved years ago. The only current foaming issue that has hit the ADDITIVE market recently (4 Years) was LUCAS. The in store demo was very impressive. Have you tried it? But when cameras were added in the oil sump/pan and in a rear-end Foaming was very prevalent. I'm sure everyone knows that foaming is death to an engine. Poor lubrication and collapsed lifters AND no film support.
Now, I do believe in SOME after-market additives. Naw - Not really. Frequent oil changes and frequent flying do more to prolong an engine life than ANY MECHANIC IN A BOTTLE.
If you do not fly much than maybe some of that expensive rust preventative recommend by lycomming may help. Or EXXON ELITE oil which has an abundant amount if it also.
If you are the betting type: Yet you do not want o put all your eggs into one basket why not split your decision with what IS and HAS proven true... A 50/50 mixture of Synthetic & Natural. NO.... You don't do it ... Purchase it that way.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 8:36 PM, Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>
Full synthetic or semi synthetics oils for a 4 stroke engine are well above a standard dino oil for performance and high stress situations. This has been demonstrated by many institutions. Personally I would never put a dino oil in a high performance, high compression, close tolerance and gearbox sharing situation engine like the Rotax. I tear into enough of them and seen enough pictures from Rotax themselves to keep me in the synthetics and out of the full dino oils.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
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flyadive(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:19 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Sure Do Ira:
First - I have said this before - If the factory or engine re builder IS going to warranty the engine use what ever they suggest. After all you are dealing with THEIR money and you can only hope they stand behind their warranty.
2nd - R/C engines is where Synthetic was first used and problems were found. We are going back quite a few years. And knowledge is knowledge - It does not matter how it was obtained.
3rd - Read my post on Mobile Synthetic Oil.... They were the cat's meow and they had engine manufactures backing and they were WRONG!
They learned that straight synthetic was NOT the way to go.
4th - In my posting you should have read - BLEND and 50/50 synthetic & natural.
My objection is the use of 100% synthetic.
Over the years things have changed and hopefully improvements in synthetics have been made. I even read a web site that stated that 100% synthetics have a Higher EP rating
than blends... NOW... Personally I do not beleive that. But if YOU want to take a chance on a $20K aircraft engine ... Go RIGHT AHEAD.
Discussing oils is like discussing all the preponderances of life: Nature Vs Nurture, Darwin Vs Divine, Chicken Vs Egg... etc.
Or as Roger put it Ford Vs Chevy.
As for me... I'll wait until all the experimental people resolve what REALLY works.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 8, 2010 at 6:55 PM, rampil <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com (ira.rampil(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com (ira.rampil(at)gmail.com)>
Barry,
Are you sure you want to offer opinions on the care of $20k aircraft
engines different from the factory, the service centers, and experienced
mechanics based on your experience in rc engines. Not many RC engines
have water cooled heads.
Synthetic oils are preferred in Rotax 900 series engines in general
and should not be used in the specific case of using AV Gas with lead.
Rotax adds and deletes oils to the Service Letter based on testing
and also on promotional/competitive reasons. Recently Mobil One for
Rotaxwas introduced as a synthetic which does not sludge in the
presence of tetraethyl lead. At SnF this year Rotax was highly promoting
this oil as the best available.
--------
Ira N224XS
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Dick Maddux
Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 516
Location: Milton, Fl
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| Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 4:45 am Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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LS,
I think you bring up a good point about too large/heavy props being used. For a little hearsay I bring up something I heard from a Rotax mech that worked on gearboxes. He told me as an example he could tell when a square tip Warp was being used vs a lighter prop by the wear on the gearbox internals. I don't know the validity of this statement but I would imagine, lighter is better. I have gone from my Warp taper to a lighter Kiev and there is a dramatic difference in smoothness and at low idle gearbox noise is almost non existent (which I had before)
In contrast, I removed the gear box from my engine, took it to South Miss Light Aircraft and had Ronnie Smith look at it in an attempt to resolve my intermittent kickback problems on shutdown. The internals showed very little wear and the engine had been using the Warp taper tip the entire time. The engine only has 230 hrs tt but we replaced the Belleville washers and another piece anyway while it was apart. This did not solve my kickback problems but it appears installing the Kiev did as I have not had it since.
Dick Maddux
Kitfox 4
912 UL
Milton,Fl
[quote][b]
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lucien
Joined: 03 Jun 2007
Posts: 721
Location: santa fe, NM
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| Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:01 am Post subject: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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| Dick Maddux wrote: | LS,
I think you bring up a good point about too large/heavy props being used. For a little hearsay I bring up something I heard from a Rotax mech that worked on gearboxes. He told me as an example he could tell when a square tip Warp was being used vs a lighter prop by the wear on the gearbox internals. I don't know the validity of this statement but I would imagine, lighter is better. I have gone from my Warp taper to a lighter Kiev and there is a dramatic difference in smoothness and at low idle gearbox noise is almost non existent (which I had before)
In contrast, I removed the gear box from my engine, took it to South Miss Light Aircraft and had Ronnie Smith look at it in an attempt to resolve my intermittent kickback problems on shutdown. The internals showed very little wear and the engine had been using the Warp taper tip the entire time. The engine only has 230 hrs tt but we replaced the Belleville washers and another piece anyway while it was apart. This did not solve my kickback problems but it appears installing the Kiev did as I have not had it since.
|
Certainly, the taper tip has less material towards the end and so it's going to have a lower MOI, but Daryl told me a while back that the WD in 3 blades fits within the MOI limits of the 912 box. So I very much doubt the WD can present a problem for the 912 GB even the square tip.... I had a 68" taper on my 912ULS for a while and the engine was quite happy with it.
However, originally, my 912ULS had an IVO medium in 3 blades on it with a 4" extension - talk about a ginourmous Godzilla prop..... When I switched to my powerfin (F model, 70" 3 blade), the weight difference was so much I literally had to redo my W&B - almost 10lbs came off that prop flange. It was like unbolting a bowling ball off the back of that motor.....
Never measured it's MOI, but it would not surprise me at all if it was significantly over. The difference in terms of smooth running especially at idle with the PF is night and day.
The extensions can add to the problem, tho they mostly magnify the Coriolis force and stress the prop shaft bearings (as well as motor mounts, etc).
Basically, the 912 even tho it's 100HP, isn't like your grandpa's O-200, which can run a 50lb metal prop bolted to it all day long. Like you said, the ligher on the prop the better....
LS
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2010 2:04 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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I half agree with you Roger. If a pilot is doing any amount of flying the
synthetic oil is definitely the way to go... but... If your plane sits at a
tie down for three weeks out of four than i think I'd consider a good
mineral oil that meets the specs.
Being that I'm getting closer to getting C-FINB back into the air on a new
to her 912 UL I'm paying particularly close attention to this thread.
Noel
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Roger Lee
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:41 am Post subject: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Howdy Noel,
Why would your prefer the mineral oil for infrequent type flying over synthetic? I'm trying to pull out of memory about mineral oil after months of just sitting is more likely to become more acidic than a synthetic. I can't remember the direct info though.
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Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
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Thom Riddle
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1597
Location: Buffalo, NY, USA (9G0)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:50 am Post subject: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Roger,
MIneral oils adhere better to the metal surfaces than synthetics when idle. This better protects the surfaces from exposure to the elements that can cause corrosion during non-operating periods.
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Buffalo, NY (9G0)
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:38 am Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Synthetic oils are super slippery and from what I've read they just don't do
the job of protecting metal parts if left for a period of time. Mineral
oils are much more protective. So if a plane is being flown almost every
day no doubt about it synthetic is the way to go. If though you only fly
say once a month then mineral will be better. Either way with two stroke
engines use low ash oils and with the 912 series use a good quality
motorcycle oil.
You are right about mineral oil becoming acidic and for some reason
mechanics say that it's better in the differential of the car to have older
seasoned oil in it. The manual on my father's old '64 Jeep said to change
the oil every 20K miles... I think. That is the reason why I change my oil
as soon as the car comes out of storage for the winter.
As for which oil is best... That's like asking whose wife is best.
Noel
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Thom Riddle
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1597
Location: Buffalo, NY, USA (9G0)
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| Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:07 am Post subject: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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I don't know if old mineral oil becomes acidic or not. Perhaps the stuff it picks up from circulating in the engine may become acidic, but I'm skeptical that the oil itself does.
Following is an excerpt from WIKIPEDIA entry on Mineral Oil (I know it may not be authoritative, but I think this one is based on the bibliography).
WIKI EXCERPT
Preservative
Since it does not absorb atmospheric moisture, mineral oil is useful as a protective coating or bath for water-sensitive materials. Alkali metals like lithium are often submerged in mineral oil for storage or transportation.
Mineral oil is also often used as a coating on metal tools and weapons, knives in particular, as a way to inhibit oxidation. The Japanese Nihonto swords, for example, are traditionally coated in Choji oil which consists of 99% mineral oil and 1% oil of cloves. The use of oil of cloves is sometimes explained as a means of differentiating sword oil from cooking oil to prevent accidental ingestion, but may also be purely aesthetic.
My Opinion
If it is used as a long term storage coating then it is unlikely that the mineral oil is becoming acidic. I would bet that an engine run the same amount of time on mineral oil and synthetic oil then let to sit for an extended period would exhibit similar acidic properties, whatever they are and whatever the source but this is just my guess. I've not seen any tests comparing this particular quality between mineral oil and synthetic.
As others have noted, changing the oil before long term storage is a very good idea. Aeroshell's preservative oil is 40 wt mineral oil (80 in Aeroshell terms) and that is what I use for winter preservation oil on Rotax, Jabiru, and Lycoming engines.
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Buffalo, NY (9G0)
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Roger Lee
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:35 am Post subject: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Thanks Noel and Thom for the info.
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Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
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flyadive(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:24 am Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Noel:
There is No More Mineral Oil. There hasn't been for many a year.
The oils of the day are consider Natural oils, AD & Non-AD oils.
Now here is a CORROSION story for you:
Long story short... A friend was called to a site of a plane accident.
The FAA wanted the engine to towarn down.
The engine had all four cylinders removed.
The FAA & Insurance company said STOP WORK.
The engine sat OPEN with all four cylinders removed for slightly over a YEAR.
The engine ran on AD Oil of both the Natural and Synthetic BLEND.
Guess what! Over a Year - NO CORROSION on an OPEN ENGINE.
Engine was sitting on a pallet on the hanger floor.
Nothing else was done to the engine.
SOooooo I do not put too much stock into how quick corrosion can start.
AND - I keep saying this - SYNTHETIC BLENDS (50/50).
Barry
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
[quote]--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)>
Synthetic oils are super slippery and from what I've read they just don't do
the job of protecting metal parts if left for a period of time. Mineral
oils are much more protective. So if a plane is being flown almost every
day no doubt about it synthetic is the way to go. If though you only fly
say once a month then mineral will be better. Either way with two stroke
engines use low ash oils and with the 912 series use a good quality
motorcycle oil.
You are right about mineral oil becoming acidic and for some reason
mechanics say that it's better in the differential of the car to have older
seasoned oil in it. The manual on my father's old '64 Jeep said to change
the oil every 20K miles... I think. That is the reason why I change my oil
as soon as the car comes out of storage for the winter.
As for which oil is best... That's like asking whose wife is best.
Noel
--
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:12 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Just try that trick with a nitride crankshaft...You will find that they can degrade in hours not days or weeks.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: July 13, 2010 9:50 AM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil
Noel:
There is No More Mineral Oil. There hasn't been for many a year.
The oils of the day are consider Natural oils, AD & Non-AD oils.
Now here is a CORROSION story for you:
Long story short... A friend was called to a site of a plane accident.
The FAA wanted the engine to towarn down.
The engine had all four cylinders removed.
The FAA & Insurance company said STOP WORK.
The engine sat OPEN with all four cylinders removed for slightly over a YEAR.
The engine ran on AD Oil of both the Natural and Synthetic BLEND.
Guess what! Over a Year - NO CORROSION on an OPEN ENGINE.
Engine was sitting on a pallet on the hanger floor.
Nothing else was done to the engine.
SOooooo I do not put too much stock into how quick corrosion can start.
AND - I keep saying this - SYNTHETIC BLENDS (50/50).
Barry
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)>
Synthetic oils are super slippery and from what I've read they just don't do
the job of protecting metal parts if left for a period of time. Mineral
oils are much more protective. So if a plane is being flown almost every
day no doubt about it synthetic is the way to go. If though you only fly
say once a month then mineral will be better. Either way with two stroke
engines use low ash oils and with the 912 series use a good quality
motorcycle oil.
You are right about mineral oil becoming acidic and for some reason
mechanics say that it's better in the differential of the car to have older
seasoned oil in it. The manual on my father's old '64 Jeep said to change
the oil every 20K miles... I think. That is the reason why I change my oil
as soon as the car comes out of storage for the winter.
As for which oil is best... That's like asking whose wife is best.
Noel
--
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Kitfox III-A
Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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| Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Noel:
Flame Hardening beats Nitriting - But ONLY in hardness depth.
When it comes to STEEL they are BOTH the SAME.
Corrosion attacks steel (Ferrous material) it does NOT care if it is Flame Hardened or Nitrated. The hardness is the same - What is difference is the depth of the hardness. Nitrating is less.
When it comes to a crankshaft most are nitrated due to the depth, uniformity and lack of stress points. Crankshaft do not fail because of corrosion - It is VERY difficult to get corrosion between the journals and babbets. A very thing layer of oil is more than enough to keep out oxygen - Oxygen is required to start and keep corrosion happening.
Crankshafts fail due to abrasion (particles in the oil) and heat. Heat can cause a babbet to loosen and rotate and block off the oil galley. NOW you have a problem! The chance of rust getting in there... You stand a better chance of getting pregnant from a toilet seat 
Well, maybe not those good an odds.
As a rule of thumb: The harder the material the slower the corrosion process.
D2 tool steel for example is much harder and denser than say 4140 - - D2 without any protection will out last 4140.
Pull out the Chem Phys on steels and read the breakdown.
OK - Enough of Metallurgy 101.
Time for dinner.
Barry
On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:11 PM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
[quote]
Just try that trick with a nitride crankshaft...You will find that they can degrade in hours not days or weeks.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: July 13, 2010 9:50 AM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com (rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil
Noel:
There is No More Mineral Oil. There hasn't been for many a year.
The oils of the day are consider Natural oils, AD & Non-AD oils.
Now here is a CORROSION story for you:
Long story short... A friend was called to a site of a plane accident.
The FAA wanted the engine to towarn down.
The engine had all four cylinders removed.
The FAA & Insurance company said STOP WORK.
The engine sat OPEN with all four cylinders removed for slightly over a YEAR.
The engine ran on AD Oil of both the Natural and Synthetic BLEND.
Guess what! Over a Year - NO CORROSION on an OPEN ENGINE.
Engine was sitting on a pallet on the hanger floor.
Nothing else was done to the engine.
SOooooo I do not put too much stock into how quick corrosion can start.
AND - I keep saying this - SYNTHETIC BLENDS (50/50).
Barry
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)>
Synthetic oils are super slippery and from what I've read they just don't do
the job of protecting metal parts if left for a period of time. Mineral
oils are much more protective. So if a plane is being flown almost every
day no doubt about it synthetic is the way to go. If though you only fly
say once a month then mineral will be better. Either way with two stroke
engines use low ash oils and with the 912 series use a good quality
motorcycle oil.
You are right about mineral oil becoming acidic and for some reason
mechanics say that it's better in the differential of the car to have older
seasoned oil in it. The manual on my father's old '64 Jeep said to change
the oil every 20K miles... I think. That is the reason why I change my oil
as soon as the car comes out of storage for the winter.
As for which oil is best... That's like asking whose wife is best.
Noel
--
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RobHousman
Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Posts: 7
Location: Irvine, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:19 pm Post subject: 912ULS Recommended Oil |
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Just to set the record straight….
The density of D2 is 0.278 lb/cu ft and 4140 is 0.283 lb/cu ft which is not exactly “much… denser” and the real reason for D2 having superior corrosion resistance is the minor matter of its 12% Cr vs. 1% Cr in 4140. For comparison 416 and 420 SS have 12 to 14%. D2 is not classified as a stainless steel however.
Hardness in steels is a function of C content and thermal treatments, while corrosion resistance is a function of Cr and Ni content, so it is not quite correct to correlate hardness and corrosion resistance.
Although you seem to have forgotten some of what was taught in Metallurgy 101 at least you got the conclusion right – cranks (at least those with the right chemistry and heat treat) generally fail from abrasion.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Irvine, CA
Europa XS Tri-Gear
A070
Airframe complete
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:41 PM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil
Noel:
Flame Hardening beats Nitriting - But ONLY in hardness depth.
When it comes to STEEL they are BOTH the SAME.
Corrosion attacks steel (Ferrous material) it does NOT care if it is Flame Hardened or Nitrated. The hardness is the same - What is difference is the depth of the hardness. Nitrating is less.
When it comes to a crankshaft most are nitrated due to the depth, uniformity and lack of stress points. Crankshaft do not fail because of corrosion - It is VERY difficult to get corrosion between the journals and babbets. A very thing layer of oil is more than enough to keep out oxygen - Oxygen is required to start and keep corrosion happening.
Crankshafts fail due to abrasion (particles in the oil) and heat. Heat can cause a babbet to loosen and rotate and block off the oil galley. NOW you have a problem! The chance of rust getting in there... You stand a better chance of getting pregnant from a toilet seat
Well, maybe not those good an odds.
As a rule of thumb: The harder the material the slower the corrosion process.
D2 tool steel for example is much harder and denser than say 4140 - - D2 without any protection will out last 4140.
Pull out the Chem Phys on steels and read the breakdown.
OK - Enough of Metallurgy 101.
Time for dinner.
Barry
On Tue, Jul 13, 2010 at 5:11 PM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
Just try that trick with a nitride crankshaft...You will find that they can degrade in hours not days or weeks.
Noel
From: owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rotaxengines-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE
Sent: July 13, 2010 9:50 AM
To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com (rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Re: 912ULS Recommended Oil
Noel:
There is No More Mineral Oil. There hasn't been for many a year.
The oils of the day are consider Natural oils, AD & Non-AD oils.
Now here is a CORROSION story for you:
Long story short... A friend was called to a site of a plane accident.
The FAA wanted the engine to towarn down.
The engine had all four cylinders removed.
The FAA & Insurance company said STOP WORK.
The engine sat OPEN with all four cylinders removed for slightly over a YEAR.
The engine ran on AD Oil of both the Natural and Synthetic BLEND.
Guess what! Over a Year - NO CORROSION on an OPEN ENGINE.
Engine was sitting on a pallet on the hanger floor.
Nothing else was done to the engine.
SOooooo I do not put too much stock into how quick corrosion can start.
AND - I keep saying this - SYNTHETIC BLENDS (50/50).
Barry
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 10:37 AM, Noel Loveys <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)> wrote:
--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Noel Loveys" <noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca (noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca)>
Synthetic oils are super slippery and from what I've read they just don't do
the job of protecting metal parts if left for a period of time. Mineral
oils are much more protective. So if a plane is being flown almost every
day no doubt about it synthetic is the way to go. If though you only fly
say once a month then mineral will be better. Either way with two stroke
engines use low ash oils and with the 912 series use a good quality
motorcycle oil.
You are right about mineral oil becoming acidic and for some reason
mechanics say that it's better in the differential of the car to have older
seasoned oil in it. The manual on my father's old '64 Jeep said to change
the oil every 20K miles... I think. That is the reason why I change my oil
as soon as the car comes out of storage for the winter.
As for which oil is best... That's like asking whose wife is best.
Noel
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