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frank-margie(at)worldnet.
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 Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:47 pm Post subject: Throttle Cables |
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Ref: "Ive always been concerned about the stock throttle cable ends coming loose.
Has anyone on the list heard of that happening?"
Ed (Firefly #062)
-----------------------------------------
Ed,
A friend of mine will never fly again (as PIC) as a result of a throttle cable breaking. He spent 6 months in a 3/4 body cast, and the gasoline in his eyes finished off the problem he was starting to have with eyesight. He can finally walk again, and can see a little with magnifiers.
Rotax 2 cycle carbs are spring loaded to idle (I think the 912 is the opposite). My buddy's cable broke on takeoff, just over the trees at the end of the runway.
We've been looking for a fix for awhile now, but so far no one has come up with any good ideas.
Frank Clyma
do not archive
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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| Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:36 pm Post subject: Throttle Cables |
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I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable
ends coming off.
The attachments show typical CPS cable ends, and then show it slid over
a cable.
Note that they have a beveled and an unbeveled end.
The beveled end is to make it easier to slip it over the cable, but you
don't care about that, you are going to use the bevel for the opposite
reason - to make it impossible to get the cable to come out of the
swedge end, so you slip it on the cable backwards.
You want the swedge with the beveled end towards the end of the cable.
Slide the swedge over the cable
Rat tail the end of the cable. Screw it up good. You want a cable that
is too buggered up to fit back out through the swedge anymore.
The goal is to make it impossible to pull back out.
Now pull it down into the swedge until it you have 1/16" to 3/32"
sticking out.
Lay some solder on it, do it right, let it cool.
You especially want the solder to fill all the rat tailed ends of the
cable, and be well attached.
Now you have a cable that is expanded just past the bevel, it is too big
to go through any more, plus the solder filling the end makes it too big
to go through, plus the adhesion of the solder to the swedge.
Test it. Pull it through if you can. If your solder job is any good at
all, you can't.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
frank & margie wrote:
| Quote: |
Ref: "Ive always been concerned about the stock throttle cable ends coming loose.
Has anyone on the list heard of that happening?"
Ed (Firefly #062)
-----------------------------------------
Ed,
A friend of mine will never fly again (as PIC) as a result of a throttle cable breaking. He spent 6 months in a 3/4 body cast, and the gasoline in his eyes finished off the problem he was starting to have with eyesight. He can finally walk again, and can see a little with magnifiers.
Rotax 2 cycle carbs are spring loaded to idle (I think the 912 is the opposite). My buddy's cable broke on takeoff, just over the trees at the end of the runway.
We've been looking for a fix for awhile now, but so far no one has come up with any good ideas.
Frank Clyma
do not archive
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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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| Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 7:47 pm Post subject: Throttle Cables |
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Richard Pike wrote:
| Quote: |
I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable
ends coming off.
<snip> attachments didn't go through-
|
will try again tomorrow.
| Quote: | Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
|
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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
|
| Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 5:12 am Post subject: Re: Throttle Cables |
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I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable
ends coming off.
The attachments show typical CPS cable ends, and then show it slid over
a cable.
Note that they have a beveled and an unbeveled end.
The beveled end is to make it easier to slip it over the cable, but you
don't care about that, you are going to use the bevel for the opposite
reason - to make it impossible to get the cable to come out of the
swedge end, so you slip it on the cable backwards.
You want the swedge with the beveled end towards the end of the cable.
Slide the swedge over the cable
Rat tail the end of the cable. Screw it up good. You want a cable that
is too buggered up to fit back out through the swedge anymore.
The goal is to make it impossible to pull back out.
Now pull it down into the swedge until it you have 1/16" to 3/32"
sticking out.
Lay some solder on it, do it right, let it cool.
You especially want the solder to fill all the rat tailed ends of the
cable, and be well attached.
Now you have a cable that is expanded just past the bevel, it is too big
to go through any more, plus the solder filling the end makes it too big
to go through, plus the adhesion of the solder to the swedge.
Test it. Pull it through if you can. If your solder job is any good at
all, you can't.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
| | - The Matronics Kolb-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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a58r(at)verizon.net
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 2:54 pm Post subject: Throttle Cables |
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Regarding the application of solder to ends of cable.
In the not too dim past I was doing the airframe annual inspection on
an old (ain't no new ones) TriPacer. Running an old pair(?) of ladies
hose down some of the control cables, I hit a snag at a (single!)
nico. The cable had been cut off, maybe strand-by-strand with dikes
as they were uneven in length. Some strands did have solder balls,
but close inspection with mag glass and big light showed not only
many strands not soldered, but a kind of corrosion that wasn't
rust...that looked like it went back into the nico, and maybe further
down the cable. The owner readily admitted to the previous soldering,
since he'd heard that was a good safety factor.
BUT he had trouble getting solder to flow and tin the strands, since
the cable had been oiled in a former life. So, as an time soldering
expert, he dipped a shop rag in a nearby battery and wicked some acid
up...and dampened the end with it. Some solder did flow, but more
acid went down the cable...and worked its magic for a whole year.
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
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frank-margie(at)worldnet.
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 26, 2006 6:41 pm Post subject: Throttle Cables |
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Ref:
<richard(at)bcchapel.org>
I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable=20
ends coming off.
--------------------------------------------------
Richard,
Looks good to me; appreciate the info. My buddy's cable was =
attached to the throttle lever via a loop in the cable, with the cable =
end bent around and attached to itself with a nico. The end evidently =
pulled out of the nico. Wish there was a way to have Bing/Mikuni carbs =
spring loaded to open.
We had a GA throttle cable failure here last year also. Those carbs =
aren't spring loaded at all, and will usually stay put if a cable =
breaks. Sometimes a broken cable (in GA) will even still work to =
increase the throttle opening. This one failed on descent for landing, =
and would not work at all. Pilot was unhurt, but landing a little short =
of the runway didn't do the airplane much good. Aiming for touchdown =
past the threshold does less for the ego, but can be a whole lot easier =
on the equipment.
Frank Clyma
do not archive
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