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Hose Change

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h&jeuropa

Joined: 07 Nov 2006
Posts: 645

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 3:49 am Post subject: Hose Change

Its been five years on our 914 so we're looking at changing hoses.  We'd like suggestions from those that have done this on how to do it efficiently and without making a huge mess.  Access to the water pump hoses seems difficult with the exhaust system in place (muffler lies under the engine).  



Jim & Heather

Europa XS 914

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lucien

Joined: 03 Jun 2007
Posts: 721
Location: santa fe, NM

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 5:58 am Post subject: Re: Hose Change

 	  h&jeuropa wrote: 	
		  Its been five years on our 914 so we're looking at changing hoses.  We'd like suggestions from those that have done this on how to do it efficiently and without making a huge mess.  Access to the water pump hoses seems difficult with the exhaust system in place (muffler lies under the engine).  



Jim & Heather

Europa XS 914 	




JMO,

if the hoses are still in good shape, I'd consider just going "on condition" on them and leaving them be. 



I recently hit 5 years on my water tubes on my 912ULS and decided not to change them. They're still pliable with no cracks, etc., so I think I'd have just been changing out some perfectly good hose with some other perfectly good hose and that's about it. 



I did change my radiator hoses not long ago, but those were visibly beginning to deteriorate. 



One diagnostic to check for is black residue in the bottom of your coolant overflow bottle. If there's a lot of it after just a short period of time, something is beginning to rot and its probably the hoses. 



That's the diagnostic I'm using on my old water tubes; if I see a bunch of the stuff at my next check (I did a thorough cleaning of the bottle after changing my radiator hoses) I'll probably then go ahead and change my water tubes regardless of how they look.....



LS

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LS
Titan II SS

Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 6:06 am Post subject: Re: Hose Change

Hi Jim,



In some cases this task will take a little more time than others depending on how the engine is mounted in your particular plane. You may have to remove the exhaust to get at the bottom hose and unfortunately some mess is unavoidable. In my CT I will have to pull the engine out at least part way to get to the hoses against the firewall behind the engine. The only suggestion I have is to start with one set of hose and just remove and replace. You will need  some band clamps and a set of band clamp pliers. Try "Chads ToolBox"  or a company call "Jegs" on line for these. Your best bet for hoses and rubber carb parts is from one of the 3 Rotax distributors.  CPS, Lockwood and Leading Edge. For the CT it is a 2 day job. If you have hose ferrules that secure some of your hose use a Dremel toll with a cut off blade to slice them open then you can just pull the hose off. Use a band clamp to re-install the new hose. I use the single ear band clamp as it is easy to install and easy to remove when the time comes. It meets ASTM standards. You should use a band clamp on the firesleeve, too. Starting in 2011 and through 2012 there will be a pile of CT's to do in the US. Close to a couple of hundred. I figure for the a full hose change with parts and labor it may cost near $1K. You have a guy with 2 days solid labor and all the hoses and carb parts. Having a hose failure in flight may cost between $3K-$8K and maybe more for a 914.



If you have an SLSA or a certified Rotax it is required to change these parts out at 5 years. If you are an experimental then they can't force you, but remember you can't just pull over to the curb if something breaks and it isn't going to break setting in the hanger with no stress on it. It will break in the air. If you loose something in the air and it ruins your 914 think about how much that engine cost. Like they say "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Our ounces and pounds may be a few hundred dollars compared to thousands of dollars for the cure.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

kitfoxsport(at)verizon.ne
Guest

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:39 pm Post subject: Hose Change

I'm not sure on the use of the Dremel tool. Especially in my hands! I use a old large dull screw driver (curved by intention) and just slightly lift up the edges of the hose and spray WD- 40. Move to other reachable areas and do it again and then massage the hose (lightly bend - twist). The hose will easily slide off. This works great if you plan on reuse. Also will aid on putting new hose on. 

  

 George

 

do not archive 

 



 

   From: Roger Lee <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>

To: rotaxengines-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Tue, August 17, 2010 7:06:05 AM

Subject: Re: Hose Change



--> RotaxEngines-List message posted by: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com (ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com)>



Hi Jim,



In some cases this task will take a little more time than others depending on how the engine is mounted in your particular plane. You may have to remove the exhaust to get at the bottom hose and unfortunately some mess is unavoidable. In my CT I will have to pull the engine out at least part way to get to the hoses against the firewall behind the engine. The only suggestion I have is to start with one set of  hose and just remove and replace. You will need  some band clamps and a set of band clamp pliers. Try "Chads ToolBox"  or a company call "Jegs" on line for these. Your best bet for hoses and rubber carb parts is from one of the 3 Rotax distributors.  CPS, Lockwood and Leading Edge. For the CT it is a 2 day job. If you have hose ferrules that secure some of your hose use a Dremel toll with a cut off blade to slice them open then you can just pull the hose off. Use a band clamp to re-install the new hose. I use the single ear band clamp as it is easy to install and easy to!

  remove when the time comes. It meets ASTM standards. You should use a band clamp on the firesleeve, too. Starting in 2011 and through 2012 there will be a pile of CT's to do in the US. Close to a couple of hundred.



--------

Roger Lee

Tucson, Az.

Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated

Rotax Repair  Center

520-574-1080





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Roger Lee

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.

Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: Hose Change

Hi Jim,



Never reuse any of those ferrules, especially if all you did was slide them off. 

A Dremel is very easy to use with a cut off blade. Just slice the ferrule from top to bottom at two places and open it up some with a screwdriver. Just slice the ferrule you don't need to go deep enough into the hose itself. Then pull the hose off. Toss that ferrule in the garbage. Use a new band clamp so the hose can not just be pulled off by hand.

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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056

qaz11

Joined: 20 Aug 2010
Posts: 6

Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 3:07 am Post subject: Re: Hose Change

yes you have now found the true meaning of high pressure hose, these are a heavy duty hose, and the ends are bonded to the rubber for maximum durability, there is nothing I have heard of that can hold up to the pressure, the return line is easy, but not the high pressure, I dont know why but that sure seems like a lot of money you might get the part numbers and start doing an internet search, is there like a ton of work to change this hose,? or is it an expensive hose? good luck



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