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18T issues

 
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richard.goode(at)russiana
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:12 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that no additional help from lead is needed.

But, I see no harm in adding lead – a good idea to give it 100ll whenever you can.

You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.

It is not that expensive – 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres – and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.

There is no 50-hour check – but my own view is it is prudent to look over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.

The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.

For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve.

I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.

Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com

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tigeryak18t



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 11:06 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Richard,

thanks so much for your very interesting answer.

For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.

In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill the plane with 100LL from time to time.

But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking records every 20 hours.

For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a resistor...??

Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer

Didier BLOUZARD

2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com (richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com)>
Quote:

 
The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that no additional help from lead is needed.
 
But, I see no harm in adding lead – a good idea to give it 100ll whenever you can.  
 
You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK. 
 
It is not that expensive – 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres – and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer. 
 
There is no 50-hour check – but my own view is it is prudent to look over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.
 
The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.
 
For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve. 
 
I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the engine before starting.  But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.
 
Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom
 
Tel:  +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com
 
Quote:


et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com (didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com)
0624243672
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jan.mevis(at)informavia.b
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 10:00 pm    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Don’t put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have a BIG problem, because you’ll scatter small particles everywhere into the oil.

Only my 2 cents,

Jan

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: 18T issues


Richard,

thanks so much for your very interesting answer.

For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.

In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill the plane with 100LL from time to time.

But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking records every 20 hours.

For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a resistor...??

Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer

Didier BLOUZARD





2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com (richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com)>

The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that no additional help from lead is needed.

But, I see no harm in adding lead – a good idea to give it 100ll whenever you can.

You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.

It is not that expensive – 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres – and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.

There is no 50-hour check – but my own view is it is prudent to look over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.

The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.

For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve.

I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.

Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com

Quote:
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listtp://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution





--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com (didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com)
0624243672
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viperdoc(at)mindspring.co
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 5:38 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Look at the E-Z aircraft engine pre-heater on the Aircraft Spruce website. www.aircraftspruce.com
You can mount one pad on the sump case and one on the oil tank.
Doc

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 12:57 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: 18T issues



Don’t put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have a BIG problem, because you’ll scatter small particles everywhere into the oil.

Only my 2 cents,

Jan

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: 18T issues


Richard,

thanks so much for your very interesting answer.

For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.

In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill the plane with 100LL from time to time.

But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking records every 20 hours.

For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a resistor...??

Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer

Didier BLOUZARD




2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com (richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com)>

The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that no additional help from lead is needed.

But, I see no harm in adding lead – a good idea to give it 100ll whenever you can.

You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.

It is not that expensive – 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres – and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.

There is no 50-hour check – but my own view is it is prudent to look over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.

The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.

For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve.

I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.

Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com

Quote:
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listtp://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution





--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com (didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com)
0624243672
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drc(at)wscare.com
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:15 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

EZ heat works great here in the frozen north. I have had it on 3 M14's

Herb
Green Bay

On Sep 16, 2010, at 8:36 AM, Roger Kemp M.D. wrote:
Quote:
Look at the E-Z aircraft engine pre-heater on the Aircraft Spruce website. www.aircraftspruce.com
You can mount one pad on the sump case and one on the oil tank.
Doc

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jan Mevis
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 12:57 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com (yak-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: RE: 18T issues

Don’t put things INTO the tank. If the resistor blows up, then you have a BIG problem, because you’ll scatter small particles everywhere into the oil.

Only my 2 cents,

Jan

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier Blouzard
Sent: woensdag 15 september 2010 9:04
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com (yak-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: 18T issues



Richard,

thanks so much for your very interesting answer.

For the TEL...I will just give 100LL to my motor every 5 fill.

In fact as we can't find 98unleaded in every field I will have to fill the plane with 100LL from time to time.

But I want to keep an eye on the filters and the plugs for tracking records every 20 hours.

For the preoiling pump you are right KISS (keep it safe and simple) is the best way to do it. A simple electric pump with the good hoses and the work id done. I will try to do something that can heat the oil in the same time. Perhaps heting the oil directly into the tank with a resistor...??

Anyway, thanks so much for your kind answer

Didier BLOUZARD

2010/9/15 Richard Goode <richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com (richard.goode(at)russianaeros.com)>

The M14P has very good quality steel valve seats, and the Russians say that no additional help from lead is needed.

But, I see no harm in adding lead – a good idea to give it 100ll whenever you can.

You can buy a lead product (TEL) for historic cars in the UK.

It is not that expensive – 130 Euro for enough to treat a thousand litres – and you do not need to put in nearly as much as they suggest, since they are using it mainly for the Octane enhancer.

There is no 50-hour check – but my own view is it is prudent to look over the engine every 50-hours, particularly if it is not often used.

The only way to clean the fuel filters is ultrasonically.

For the undercarriage oleos, you either get an engineering shop to make up connectors, OR convert them to a conventional automotive Schraeder valve.

I think pre-oiling is a very good idea, and all you need is a separate supply from the oil tank through to a high pressure electric pump, going into one of the oil galleries, which then will circulate oil around the engine before starting. But I do not think that anyone makes a kit as such.

Richard Goode Aerobatics
Rhodds Farm
Lyonshall
Herefordshire
HR5 3LW
United Kingdom

Tel: +44 (0) 1544 340120
Fax: +44 (0) 1544 340129
www.russianaeros.com


Quote:
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listtp://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution


--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com (didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com)
0624243672
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Dr. Herb Coussons, MD
drc(at)wscare.com (drc(at)wscare.com)
2641 Development Drive
Green Bay, WI 54311
Cell 920-639-8434
Work 920-338-6868
Fax 920-338-6869


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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:25 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.

I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.

Mark

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ssssskippy



Joined: 02 May 2010
Posts: 58

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:01 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Hi Mark

Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?

Thanks

Olivier

2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>



In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
"element".  There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues".  The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
way to go.  Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/  are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather.  They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on.  You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
mine have NEVER come off.  The heating element ends up heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly.  They include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.

I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.

Mark

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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:09 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil cooler. Highly recommended!
Dennis
[quote] ---


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:16 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

We have seen oil coolers “blow up” from people forgetting to preheat them.

From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of A. Dennis Savarese
Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 1:07 PM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: 18T issues



You may also want to seriously consider a separate heat pad for the oil cooler. Highly recommended!

Dennis
[quote]
----- Original Message -----

From: Olivier Vigneron (ssssskippy(at)gmail.com)

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com (yak-list(at)matronics.com)

Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2010 11:57 AM

Subject: Re: 18T issues



Hi Mark

Wich e-zheat model do you use for a M14P?

Thanks

Olivier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>



In addition it is not a good idea to directly heat oil with a heating
"element". There are all kinds of articles on that issue discussing
moisture and condensation, oil breakdown and other "issues". The old
"stick a heated dipstick into the oil" trick was apparently not the best
way to go. Indirectly heated oil systems, like Doc mentioned
http://e-zheat.com/ are widely used on aircraft operating in cold
weather. They usually attach to an oil pan, or oil tank simply by
glueing them on. You do have to remove any paint first of course, but
mine have NEVER come off. The heating element ends up heating the whole
metal tank and distributes the heat evenly. They include a thermostat
and are made for both 110 and 220 VAC.

I've seen them on M-14's, C-180's and a whole slew of bush airplanes.

Mark

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:36 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).

I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of the
oil tank itself.

Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.

I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat bypass,
so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.

When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
Dennis recommends.

Mark


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keithmckinley



Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Posts: 434

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Re: 18T issues Reply with quote

I live in the Northeast and have the EZ Heat pads on my oil tank, the engine sump, and the oil cooler. They are all wired together to a single plug. It works great.

Additionally I have timer on an outlet in my hangar to turn the system on

Keith


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tigeryak18t



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 10:51 am    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Hi everybody,

I just spoke with Todd the owner of EZHeat.
He has got a Yak52 and fortunately, he has designed specific heating pads for the 52
Of course he does recommend heating pads on the oil tank and on the sump. But also on the oil cooler if possible.
And also a good news, he has just designed a new pre oiling device.

Either you can ask him directly but as soon as I got some informations I can send it to the list unless someone tells me that it is inapropriate.

Keep you in the loop Olivier.

Best regards

Didier
2010/9/16 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>


Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember!  I got those heating
pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).

I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
I have one that has two pads.  In other words, it has one power cord,
that controls TWO heating pads.  Both of those are on the bottom of the
oil tank itself.

Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.

I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50.  It has a thermostat bypass,
so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.

When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
Dennis recommends.

Mark


--


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radiopicture



Joined: 23 Jun 2008
Posts: 263

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 12:52 pm    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

Hey, I noticed that farm equipment places have heating pads in all
shapes and sizes. Shockingly cheap, and apparently sourced the same as
the aviation ones.

I use a Harbor Fright (Halloween coming up) fan driven disc heater
with some HVAC items cobbled in such a way that it's funneled into the
left side of the cowl. I close the gills and usually plug the left
side with some foam. I have it mounted on an old tripod so it can be
properly positioned. Heats everything except the oil cooler, which
doesn't seem to b3 a problem with the Phillips 25-60. I live near
Buffalo, NY. I'll try to post a picture sometime.


On Sep 16, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point,
MALS-14 64E wrote:

[quote]
Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember! I got those heating
pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).

I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
I have one that has two pads. In other words, it has one power cord,
that controls TWO heating pads. Both of those are on the bottom of
the
oil tank itself.

Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.

I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50. It has a thermostat
bypass,
so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.

When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
Dennis recommends.

Mark
--


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tigeryak18t



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: 18T issues Reply with quote

yeahh would be interested in seeing.

Many thanks if you can post a pic

regards

Didier

2010/9/16 Eric Wobschall <eric(at)buffaloskyline.com (eric(at)buffaloskyline.com)>
[quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: Eric Wobschall <eric(at)buffaloskyline.com (eric(at)buffaloskyline.com)>

Hey, I noticed that farm equipment places have heating pads in all shapes and sizes. Shockingly cheap, and apparently sourced the same as the aviation ones.

I use a Harbor Fright (Halloween coming up) fan driven disc heater with some HVAC items cobbled in such a way that it's funneled into the left side of the cowl. I close the gills and usually plug the left side with some foam. I have it mounted on an old tripod so it can be properly positioned. Heats everything except the oil cooler, which doesn't seem to b3 a problem with the Phillips 25-60. I live near Buffalo, NY. I'll try to post a picture sometime.





On Sep 16, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E wrote:

[quote] --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV Det Cherry Point, MALS-14 64E" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>

Honestly Olivier, I can't even begin to remember!  I got those heating
pads 10 years ago (and they still work by the way).

I think I just went to their web site and talked to their sales agent.
I have one that has two pads.  In other words, it has one power cord,
that controls TWO heating pads.  Both of those are on the bottom of the
oil tank itself.

Then I have another one that is stuck on the lower sump.

I do not have one on the oil cooler, as Dennis recommended, BUT .... I
have a very unique oil cooler in my YAK-50.  It has a thermostat bypass,
so that when the weather is cold, the oil cooler is BY-PASSED.

When it comes to these aircraft, I would listen carefully to anything
Dennis recommends.

Mark


--


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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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French Wing
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