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egilroy(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 12:48 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
[quote][b]
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Ivor Phillips
Joined: 16 Jan 2006 Posts: 253 Location: London UK
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Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:15 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Hi
I am using a 12volt battery pack with built in inverter but my system is only 12v,
http://www.northerntooluk.com/automotive-equipment/battery-chargers-and-cables/400w-emergency-power-source_2354E.html
But it shouldn’t be too difficult to use two together for your 24v starts, it also come’s with LED light and tyre pump,
Just a idea!
Ivor
On 20 October 2010 21:44, Ed Gilroy <egilroy(at)gmail.com (egilroy(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
Quote: |
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008 Posts: 1927 Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 5:40 am Post subject: Re: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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No matter how fool proof you make a dual voltage cart, it is only a matter of time before someone uses the wrong voltage on their plane. The damage caused will be much greater than the cost of a second cart. So I suggest having two carts, one for 12 volt and one for 24 volt. The carts can be clearly marked. And it should be obvious that the cart with two batteries if for 24 volts. Or how about just having one cart for 12 volts to take care of the majority of aircraft. For the infrequent occasions when 24 volts are required, a spare battery can be connected in series.
Joe
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ulflyer(at)verizon.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 21, 2010 9:07 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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There are some golf cart batteries that work better for solar
charging and can supply a good amount of current for jumping or
running inverters. If I recall right cast was around $70 each if I
recall right. If your interested I will ping my friend for info on
them. There being used by folks living off the grid. A lot of folks
are moving to isolated areas in preparation for the coming melt down.
jerb
At 03:44 PM 10/20/2010, you wrote:
Quote: | Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list
or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground
power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our
club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We
have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be
inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar
chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V
charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12
volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side
and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I
want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything
else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant
solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution
to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006 Posts: 2704 Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 5:40 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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I hope this little diagram I just drew will help you. Just be sure to close the SPDT switch in the 12V position before charging. The drawing is for two sets of 12 V batteries wired into two sets of 12V. For this set up I would try to get batteries of matching amperage. You can add as many batteries as you want but I was thinking that four automotive storage batteries would be heavy enough for carting around.
Noel
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Gilroy
Sent: October 20, 2010 6:14 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
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_________________ Noel Loveys
Kitfox III-A
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 8:52 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to "jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
I've had occasion to observer or participate in the
fabrication of several battery carts over the years.
Functionally, it's not a big deal except for that
pesky DPDT switch that has to carry many hundreds
of amps. You can synthesize the switch from an array
of contactors but there is risk for shorting out one
of the batteries if a contactor sticks.
The simplest and least risky 12/24 switching involved
changing some jumpers around on a sort of "stud panel"
where the jumpers were brass bars held on threaded
studs with large hand operated "nuts" . . . but
the loose bars and exposed studs offered some slight
risk of shorts . . . about he same degree of risk
as for swinging wrenches on car battery (+) terminals.
I've been pondering a design for a jumper bar assembly
where the bars are sandwiched between two sheets
of insulating material. The spacing of the studs
is such that the array cannot be installed in any
way except one that produces the 12/24 configuration.
I'll publish the drawings in a day or so. Had them
about done tonight but had to halt operations
long enough to restore a c-drive.
Bob . . .
I've been pondering a variation on that idea
Bob . . . [quote][b]
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 9:24 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Bob,
A thought on the battery cart. I have a tig welder that has jumpers for
various settings that used welding cable with male ends on it as
jumpers. The females are mounted in a panel and the only time there
might be an exposed connector would be if someone left a jumper end
dangling.
FWIW
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/23/2010 11:50 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: | *Subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart
Here's a subject I have not seen discussed, as of yet, on the list or in
Bob's Aero-Electric Connection:
We would like to construct a 12 volt, 24 volt, and 110 volt ground power
cart for powering electrical tools, etc. and for jumping our club
airplanes during the winters here in the wilds of Jersey. We have
non-electrified outdoor tiedown spots.
It would seem (2) 12 volt automotive batteries in series would be
inexpensive and we would keep them charged via simple 12v solar chargers
mounted on top of our storage shed. The 24V charging/inverting devices
are hundreds of dollars.
So how might such a circuit look to "isolate" the batteries for 12 volt
charging and occasional 120v inverter usage from the 12v side and still
allow on-demand 24/28V "jumping"?
My thinking says manually isolate the 24v series circuit until I want to
"jump" and just throw a switch to go 24v with everything else physically
disconnected. Or is there a more elegant solution? Idiot proof would be
best, remember these are pilots !!!
I have thought about this for some months but see no simple solution to
provide this "isolation" function but then I am a BSCS, not an EE.
Thanks... Ed
* I've had occasion to observer or participate in the
fabrication of several battery carts over the years.
Functionally, it's not a big deal except for that
pesky DPDT switch that has to carry many hundreds
of amps. You can synthesize the switch from an array
of contactors but there is risk for shorting out one
of the batteries if a contactor sticks.
The simplest and least risky 12/24 switching involved
changing some jumpers around on a sort of "stud panel"
where the jumpers were brass bars held on threaded
studs with large hand operated "nuts" . . . but
the loose bars and exposed studs offered some slight
risk of shorts . . . about he same degree of risk
as for swinging wrenches on car battery (+) terminals.
I've been pondering a design for a jumper bar assembly
where the bars are sandwiched between two sheets
of insulating material. The spacing of the studs
is such that the array cannot be installed in any
way except one that produces the 12/24 configuration.
I'll publish the drawings in a day or so. Had them
about done tonight but had to halt operations
long enough to restore a c-drive.
Bob . . .
I've been pondering a variation on that idea
Bob . . .
*
*
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 10:05 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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At 12:18 AM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob,
A thought on the battery cart. I have a tig welder that has jumpers
for various settings that used welding cable with male ends on it as
jumpers. The females are mounted in a panel and the only time there
might be an exposed connector would be if someone left a jumper end dangling.
|
Yeah . . . I considered that kind of device. They're pretty
pricey. Take a look at the hammer-n-tongs approach and see
what you think.
Bob . . .
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aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:17 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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HI All-
A couple observations-
You've got me thinking about a gadget for the chapter. The first thing
that comes to mind is to substitute cheap AGM batteries from Batteries Plus
(or wherever) for the car batteries. They'd be cheaper, lighter, and dump
current better than the plain flooded cell batteries.
This leads to the thought of using cast off batteries from Bob's
one-each-year-or-two battery replacement scheme, especially since that's
what I'll be doing once I get flying. If one made a cart that wasn't
physically tailored to a specific type of battery, they could use whatever
batteries were surplussed on the field.
The last item is that another group I'm part of was given a 'cast off'
motorized scooter chair. A ground power cord was added, and viola! A
self-powered ground power cart that has enough energy to run the avionics
all day and yet crank a couple of really large engines repeatedly without
showing any signs of stress. As a side bennie, the scooter came with a
tailored smart charger that can be left on continuously, making charge
state mx trivial. The scooter has two 12v AGM's, so whatever voltage
switching arrangement were derived could be applied here as well. Given
all the ads on the tube for 'free' mobility scooters, it seems like there
might be a significant secondary market for the things.
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba(at)earthlink.net
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:00 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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do not archive
I can't find the info Bob is directing me to.
Any help would be appreciated.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/24/2010 01:03 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 12:18 AM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
>
> A thought on the battery cart. I have a tig welder that has jumpers
> for various settings that used welding cable with male ends on it as
> jumpers. The females are mounted in a panel and the only time there
> might be an exposed connector would be if someone left a jumper end
> dangling.
Yeah . . . I considered that kind of device. They're pretty
pricey. Take a look at the hammer-n-tongs approach and see
what you think.
Bob . . .
|
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:10 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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At 08:11 AM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
Quote: |
<aerobubba(at)earthlink.net>
HI All-
A couple observations-
You've got me thinking about a gadget for the chapter. The first thing
that comes to mind is to substitute cheap AGM batteries from Batteries Plus
(or wherever) for the car batteries. They'd be cheaper, lighter, and dump
current better than the plain flooded cell batteries.
This leads to the thought of using cast off batteries from Bob's
one-each-year-or-two battery replacement scheme, especially since that's
what I'll be doing once I get flying. If one made a cart that wasn't
physically tailored to a specific type of battery, they could use whatever
batteries were surplussed on the field.
|
The last battery cart project I observed was more of a
"battery box" approach. The builder hand two-wheel hand-
trucks and decided not to dedicate a set of wheels and
handle to the ground start battery. He built hand-truck
friendly box that held two batteries and a Schumacher automatic
charger. His project was 24 v only so didn't need a
battery 'switch'. I finished development of the geometry
for a 6.5 x 7.5 inch assembly that could be made of
1/8" tempered Masonite, Lexan, or other hard/durable material.
See:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/7000_Battery_Cart_Switch.pdf
This design is based on hand-knobs I have on hand
with 1/2-13 threaded inserts. The battery leads are
brought to 1/2-13 x 2" brass bolts and associated
hardware in a rectangular pattern. The spacings have
been adjusted so that a sandwich of 1/8" masonite
sheets, 1/8" x 1" aluminum bars can be placed over
the studs in only two positions. The exposed
ends of the bars are rather well guarded against
accidental shorts on the studs while changing voltage
setting. When the hand-knobs are in place, all exposed
"hot" metal is pretty well covered and/or recessed.
I'm headed to Wichita for a few days but I'll work
up a schematic for a system with a charger and
AC inverter built in. Charging with solar cells
is problematic unless one is considering some
really hefty devices like . . .
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-watt-solar-panel-kit-90599.html
along with electronics suitable for SVLA battery
maintenance. If folks are interested in this
design, I can supply the hand-knobs and bus
bars. I have access to a digital mill so it wouldn't
be hard to build a precision drill fixture that
precisely located the holes. Perhaps I could supply
a "kit" of knobs, pilot drilled bus bar material,
and a stack of 1/8" sheets also pilot drilled.
I think you can get the brass hardware from Lowes/
HomeDepot style big-box stores.
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:33 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Bob,
A very functional approach. Certainly the other end of the $time$
combination scale from my suggestion.
My preference is to trade more initial $time$ on the front end for
crawling around on the grass in the cold dark mornings of January
looking for a part my clumsy gloved hand has dropped.
That said, if you could avoid any loose parts I think it would be an
improvement. One thought I had was to combine 2 of the jumper bars into
a V with one leg the length to reach to make the 24 volt connection and
the other the length to reach for the 12 volt. With the angle between
them such that one connection must be broken before the other could be
made. As I was writing I had another thought. Just use one bar with 2
holes, one to make the 12 and the other to make the 24. This would
reduce the number of loose parts to the 2 knobs on the studs the jumper
moves between, assuming the 3rd knob is only loosened to allow the
jumper to swing. Another evolution occurred as I was writing the above.
The single bar could have U shaped cutouts, rather than holes, that
would allow the jumper to slide under the appropriate knob and eliminate
the need for the knobs to become loose parts.
Please pardon the "stream of consciousness" rambling of the letter.
do not archive
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/24/2010 01:03 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 12:18 AM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
>
> A thought on the battery cart. I have a tig welder that has jumpers
> for various settings that used welding cable with male ends on it as
> jumpers. The females are mounted in a panel and the only time there
> might be an exposed connector would be if someone left a jumper end
> dangling.
Yeah . . . I considered that kind of device. They're pretty
pricey. Take a look at the hammer-n-tongs approach and see
what you think.
Bob . . .
|
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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At 02:29 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
Quote: |
Bob,
A very functional approach. Certainly the other end of the $time$
combination scale from my suggestion.
My preference is to trade more initial $time$ on the front end for
crawling around on the grass in the cold dark mornings of January
looking for a part my clumsy gloved hand has dropped.
That said, if you could avoid any loose parts I think it would be an
improvement. One thought I had was to combine 2 of the jumper bars
into a V with one leg the length to reach to make the 24 volt
connection and the other the length to reach for the 12 volt. With
the angle between them such that one connection must be broken
before the other could be made. As I was writing I had another
thought. Just use one bar with 2 holes, one to make the 12 and the
other to make the 24. This would reduce the number of loose parts to
the 2 knobs on the studs the jumper moves between, assuming the 3rd
knob is only loosened to allow the jumper to swing. Another
evolution occurred as I was writing the above. The single bar could
have U shaped cutouts, rather than holes, that would allow the
jumper to slide under the appropriate knob and eliminate the need
for the knobs to become loose parts.
|
check your configurations for failure modes and
potential for erroneous connections. my goal was
to make it impossible to install a jumper in the
wrong location that might short a battery.
Hence the non-square pattern for the 4 posts and
the single assembly of jumpers that guards
most of the bare surfaces.
As long as you can see the labels, then any way
you install it will produce either 12 or 24 v with
no gottchas. If you flip it over, the 12v still works
but the 24 volt would be inert.
I like putting the bars down over studs with a contiguous
hole as opposed to a slot. More surface area in contact
with the stud.
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:34 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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I'll take another look at it and do a drawing -IF- it seems viable after
further analysis.
do not archive
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/24/2010 03:11 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 02:29 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
>
>
> Bob,
>
> A very functional approach. Certainly the other end of the $time$
> combination scale from my suggestion.
>
> My preference is to trade more initial $time$ on the front end for
> crawling around on the grass in the cold dark mornings of January
> looking for a part my clumsy gloved hand has dropped.
>
> That said, if you could avoid any loose parts I think it would be an
> improvement. One thought I had was to combine 2 of the jumper bars
> into a V with one leg the length to reach to make the 24 volt
> connection and the other the length to reach for the 12 volt. With the
> angle between them such that one connection must be broken before the
> other could be made. As I was writing I had another thought. Just use
> one bar with 2 holes, one to make the 12 and the other to make the 24.
> This would reduce the number of loose parts to the 2 knobs on the
> studs the jumper moves between, assuming the 3rd knob is only loosened
> to allow the jumper to swing. Another evolution occurred as I was
> writing the above. The single bar could have U shaped cutouts, rather
> than holes, that would allow the jumper to slide under the appropriate
> knob and eliminate the need for the knobs to become loose parts.
check your configurations for failure modes and
potential for erroneous connections. my goal was
to make it impossible to install a jumper in the
wrong location that might short a battery.
Hence the non-square pattern for the 4 posts and
the single assembly of jumpers that guards
most of the bare surfaces.
As long as you can see the labels, then any way
you install it will produce either 12 or 24 v with
no gottchas. If you flip it over, the 12v still works
but the 24 volt would be inert.
I like putting the bars down over studs with a contiguous
hole as opposed to a slot. More surface area in contact
with the stud.
Bob . . .
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:39 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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At 03:30 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
Quote: |
I'll take another look at it and do a drawing -IF- it seems viable
after further analysis.
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I'll look forward to it. I sort of cheated with
the AutoCAD for laying out and testing the architecture
but we used to do it with dividers, protractor, compass
and scissors to cut out "paper parts" for fit checks.
Great fun and worthwhile gray matter exercise too.
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:15 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Bob,
For your consideration.
do not archive
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/24/2010 08:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 03:30 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
>
>
> I'll take another look at it and do a drawing -IF- it seems viable
> after further analysis.
I'll look forward to it. I sort of cheated with
the AutoCAD for laying out and testing the architecture
but we used to do it with dividers, protractor, compass
and scissors to cut out "paper parts" for fit checks.
Great fun and worthwhile gray matter exercise too.
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:19 pm Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Clearly, designing can't be hurried. Had another thought after I sent
the drawing. The jumpers could be connected with an insulated bar
connected where the insulated handles are and then break before make is
assured and the mode change only requires moving a the handle mounted on
the insulated bar, and of course loosening/tightening the "nuts".
do not archive
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
On 10/24/2010 08:32 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
At 03:30 PM 10/24/2010, you wrote:
>
>
> I'll take another look at it and do a drawing -IF- it seems viable
> after further analysis.
I'll look forward to it. I sort of cheated with
the AutoCAD for laying out and testing the architecture
but we used to do it with dividers, protractor, compass
and scissors to cut out "paper parts" for fit checks.
Great fun and worthwhile gray matter exercise too.
Bob . . .
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aerobubba(at)earthlink.ne Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:05 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Hi All-
You know, the thing that would make the 12 - 24v battery cart zippy would be a DPDT knife switch cabable of handling cranking currents. It would handle the switching function elegantly, and if mounted in a recess or under a cover would be pretty darn safe from accidental shorts. I've not looked yet, but I wonder if such a thing is still available, especially in some sort of surpluss house...
Glen Matejcek
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:26 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Quote: | You know, the thing that would make the 12 - 24v battery cart zippy would be a DPDT knife switch
>I wonder if such a thing is still available, especially in some sort of surpluss house...
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Glen,
You mean like this;
http://www.wirthco.com/12/24-volt-heavy-equipment-switch-p-66-l-en.html
Although it isn't configured exactly yet, it wouldn't be but a very minor mod to make it so.
I think you are right. This would be a very simple solution!!
Mike Welch
[quote][b]
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mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.co Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:33 am Post subject: Ground Power / Tiedown Power Cart |
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Quote: | You know, the thing that would make the 12 - 24v battery cart zippy would be a DPDT knife switch
> Glen Matejcek
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Glen,
On second examination, yes the switch IS configured correctly right out of the box. I see where they
make the second set of contacts to go through the handle itself!! Clever!
Mike
[quote][b]
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