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Eric_Kallio
Joined: 29 Jan 2006
Posts: 149
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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 Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 5:00 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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I have an upcoming job related work stoppage for a few weeks. After that I will be riviting the tailcone together. I have searched the archives and unless I missed something no one has posted a method for back riviting the majority of the pieces. I would like to back rivit as many of the stiffners as possible, but before I go and reinvent the wheel, has anyone tried this and come up with anything that did or did not work?
Eric Kallio
40518 waiting to rivit the tailcone
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LarryRosen
Joined: 16 Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Location: Medford, NJ
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:39 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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Much of the tail cone can be back riveted. You can do just about all
the bottom and side skins to the stiffeners, frames and bulk heads. I
do recommend a large back. When I did mine we used a 2'x2'x1/4" steel
plate. If you do use one of the smaller plates like Avery or Cleveland
sells be careful to make sure it is in place when you rivet. (I know I
am stating the obvious, but just don't want you to have a bad day.)
Mike Howe has a very detailed description on how he back riveted the
tail cone together here <http://www.etigerrr.com/TailCone/june_25_2004.htm>.
Two people will help (but not necessary), since the tail cone starts to
get big and heavy.
--
Larry Rosen
RV-10 #356
http://lrosen.nerv10.com
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_________________
Larry Rosen
#40356
N205EN (reserved)
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Rick S.
Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:58 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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Yes, it is very doable. I did it on mine. Just take your time and move your back riveting plate down each row of rivets taking care to make sure the plate is on the rivet and the skin is resting flush on the plate. If I recall there is a few you can't/might not be able to do alone. It can get awkward moving around that big ole tub on your bench. I could figure out how to do it in my sleep now after plugging away on this project for two+ years. Step back, look at what you want to do, it is pretty easy to develop a back rivet plant...mine came out real nice. Gt ready to become a building wizard as time go on.
Rick S.
40185
Fuse/finish
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Rick S.
RV-10
40185 |
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SNYDER888(at)peoplepc.com
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:58 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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Eric,
I back riveted almost the entire tailcone (except the round corners and the
top skin). I used 2 tables, one about an installed cleco height shorter
than the other. With the back rivet plate on the taller table, I worked
from the most forward part of the tailcone back, rolling the tailcone to get
both sides. I just pulled the clecoes, taped the rivets in, slid that part
of the tailcone onto the taller table and backriveted away until the rivet
gun wouldn't fit in the tailcone.
Bruce Snyder
40353 Fuselage
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MB86967(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:14 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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My small Cleavend back rivet plate is routered flush into the work bench. I attached a Black & Decker Laser Level to the floor joist above that shines a visible red beam onto the steel plate. The laser beam happens to spread the length of the plate. When back riveting, as long as the beam is hitting the rivet, I know the rivet is on the back plate.
Mike -SB Wings
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armywrights(at)adelphia.n
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| Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:23 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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My back rivet set hasn't held up well, and it didn't have enough clearance
beside some of the J-channel, so I just used my flush set and was careful to
keep it level and not allow it to slide off, which happened anyway a few
times. Just hit the rivet one more time in a level attitude and it looks
great!
Rob
#392
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cehoffman(at)bellsouth.ne
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| Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 4:50 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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Do not archive
Back riveting on the fuselage.
The attached pictures show a rivet set machined to a flat face with a 1/32"
deep flat cut. This holds the set on the rivet shop end. The other is the
bucking bar, 5-3/4" long with a polished 2" face. I had mine made by a
friend but I suspect they are also available for sale.
This combination works well on almost all rivet locations and is easier to
handle than the backing plate.
Cal Hoffman
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ron.mcgann(at)baesystems.
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| Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 6:20 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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A normal (spring loaded) back rivet set is more user friendly. I have used the 12" offset backrivet set (almost identical to the one pictured, just longer and slightly offset). It is a pig to use and if you have the set at even a slight angle, you will dent the skin - ask how I know. If you must use a set like this, and there are places where it is invaluable, I would suggest slicing a soft pencil eraser block (eg Staedtler or Faber Castel) about 1/32-1/16" thick, putting a 1/8" hole in it and placing this over the rivet before it is set. It will serve the dual purpose of squeezing the flange/skins together and preventing any dents in the metal. Works real well with a squeezer also - see before and after pictures attached. Don't have the eraser too thick, the rivet won't set and you will work harden just the end.
cheers,
Ron
#187 fuse
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jesse(at)itecusa.org
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| Posted: Mon May 01, 2006 6:20 pm Post subject: Riviting the tailcone |
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Avery at least, and I am sure many others have a great back-rivet set with a
plastic sleeve and a spring. This sets wonderful rivets. Also, we have a
round bucking bar about 3.5 inches in diameter and about 1.75 inches thick
that works great and allows for bucking 2-3 rivets without moving it. That
works great. In places that can be laid flat, a 4x8 table with a 1/4" steel
top works awesome, but it is a bear to move, weighing around 800lbs
probably.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
352-465-4545
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