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scott-p(at)texas.net Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 3:09 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Hi All,
I am aware this has been discussed before, but as the problem now
effects my own airplane, I have am a bit more attentive...
I have a Yak 55M with an auto-plug conversion. The conversion has been
in place for about 3 years now (roughly 400 hours). I am now getting RF
interference picked up in the Briz radio from the mags/plug wires. At
least I assume that is the source, as it is RPM dependent. It has been
present since installation, but has been gradually getting worse over
the past year or so. I assume that there is a shielding issue either at
the mag connection or along the wires somewhere. My question to you is
where should I start to look at trouble shooting this issue, and how do
I go about fixing it (shy of completely replacing the plug wires, which
I'd prefer not to do... But will do if need be...)?
Any thoughts you might have on the matter would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott Poehlmann
Yak 55M N155YK
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radiopicture
Joined: 23 Jun 2008 Posts: 263
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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:07 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Could the tach generator be an issue?
Also wondering if the dielectric properties of the plug wires are
changing due to long term heat exposure.
On Dec 16, 2010, at 6:06 AM, Scott Poehlmann wrote:
Quote: |
Hi All,
I am aware this has been discussed before, but as the problem now
effects my own airplane, I have am a bit more attentive...
I have a Yak 55M with an auto-plug conversion. The conversion has
been in place for about 3 years now (roughly 400 hours). I am now
getting RF interference picked up in the Briz radio from the mags/
plug wires. At least I assume that is the source, as it is RPM
dependent. It has been present since installation, but has been
gradually getting worse over the past year or so. I assume that
there is a shielding issue either at the mag connection or along the
wires somewhere. My question to you is where should I start to look
at trouble shooting this issue, and how do I go about fixing it (shy
of completely replacing the plug wires, which I'd prefer not to
do... But will do if need be...)?
Any thoughts you might have on the matter would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott Poehlmann
Yak 55M N155YK
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pa3arw(at)euronet.nl Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 4:11 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Scott,
This is one of the most difficult things to find/resolve.
A couple of possibilities:
How did you determine it is RF interference, i.e. is it picked up by the
antenna or via the power line?? Is the interference opening the squelch?
This can easily be checked by disconnecting the antenna and connecting a
small 50 Ohm dummyload.
If it is picked up by the antenna it will be a real problem to resolve
(assuming all the shielding of the plugs wiring etc is OK), not to say
almost impossible without redesigning the radio w.r.t. grounding, internal
decoupling etc.
If it is picked up on the power leads it is easier to prevent by using a
filter in the powerline. Ask Dennis for contact details of a company, I
think in Texas, who makes those filters suitable for use in aeroplanes.
The interesting thing y're saying however is "it got worse over time" if
that is the case I would check the shielding of the RPM-generator first. If,
over time, the shielding has been damaged you can be sure it will generate a
lot of noise on the radio which increases or decreases with the rpm.
Hope this will help you a little.
Hans Oortman
RA3326K
Netherlands
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Scott Poehlmann
Verzonden: donderdag 16 december 2010 12:07
Aan: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RF interference
Hi All,
I am aware this has been discussed before, but as the problem now
effects my own airplane, I have am a bit more attentive...
I have a Yak 55M with an auto-plug conversion. The conversion has been
in place for about 3 years now (roughly 400 hours). I am now getting RF
interference picked up in the Briz radio from the mags/plug wires. At
least I assume that is the source, as it is RPM dependent. It has been
present since installation, but has been gradually getting worse over
the past year or so. I assume that there is a shielding issue either at
the mag connection or along the wires somewhere. My question to you is
where should I start to look at trouble shooting this issue, and how do
I go about fixing it (shy of completely replacing the plug wires, which
I'd prefer not to do... But will do if need be...)?
Any thoughts you might have on the matter would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott Poehlmann
Yak 55M N155YK
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 5:34 am Post subject: RF interference |
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We have installed these magneto filters on the P-leads
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lsMagFilter.php, mounting
them on one of the studs of the round accessory case cover. They have
worked quite well and are easily installed by removing the P lead and
de-soldering the shield and wire from the P-lead "button", installing a
terminal lung on the P lead wire and connecting it to the mag filter.
Then install a terminal lug on the mag filter wire and soldering it to
the P-lead button.
For additional noise attenuation, we have also installed this noise
filter directly on the DC line to the affected unit.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lsStrobeNoiseEl.php.
There are larger noise filters with higher current ratings that could be
used on the DC bus.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/lonestarFilter70amp.php.
Dennis
On 12/16/2010 6:09 AM, Hans Oortman wrote:
Quote: |
Scott,
This is one of the most difficult things to find/resolve.
A couple of possibilities:
How did you determine it is RF interference, i.e. is it picked up by the
antenna or via the power line?? Is the interference opening the squelch?
This can easily be checked by disconnecting the antenna and connecting a
small 50 Ohm dummyload.
If it is picked up by the antenna it will be a real problem to resolve
(assuming all the shielding of the plugs wiring etc is OK), not to say
almost impossible without redesigning the radio w.r.t. grounding, internal
decoupling etc.
If it is picked up on the power leads it is easier to prevent by using a
filter in the powerline. Ask Dennis for contact details of a company, I
think in Texas, who makes those filters suitable for use in aeroplanes.
The interesting thing y're saying however is "it got worse over time" if
that is the case I would check the shielding of the RPM-generator first. If,
over time, the shielding has been damaged you can be sure it will generate a
lot of noise on the radio which increases or decreases with the rpm.
Hope this will help you a little.
Hans Oortman
RA3326K
Netherlands
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] Namens Scott Poehlmann
Verzonden: donderdag 16 december 2010 12:07
Aan: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Onderwerp: RF interference
Hi All,
I am aware this has been discussed before, but as the problem now
effects my own airplane, I have am a bit more attentive...
I have a Yak 55M with an auto-plug conversion. The conversion has been
in place for about 3 years now (roughly 400 hours). I am now getting RF
interference picked up in the Briz radio from the mags/plug wires. At
least I assume that is the source, as it is RPM dependent. It has been
present since installation, but has been gradually getting worse over
the past year or so. I assume that there is a shielding issue either at
the mag connection or along the wires somewhere. My question to you is
where should I start to look at trouble shooting this issue, and how do
I go about fixing it (shy of completely replacing the plug wires, which
I'd prefer not to do... But will do if need be...)?
Any thoughts you might have on the matter would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott Poehlmann
Yak 55M N155YK
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viperdoc(at)mindspring.co Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 10:39 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is the most likely source
for RPM related noise.
Doc
--
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mikspin
Joined: 12 Aug 2007 Posts: 66
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:47 am Post subject: Re: RF interference |
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Hans,
Where are you in the Netherlands? I routinely overnight in Amsterdam.
(Sorry to go off topic here guys)
Mike Hastings
Yak 55M
(Oversee several Yak 52's)
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mikspin
Joined: 12 Aug 2007 Posts: 66
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 1:48 am Post subject: Re: RF interference |
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Scott,
Did you get those diagrams I emailed you a while back?
Mike
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 9:22 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Do the following:
Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires to break.
If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane. Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
You're now a glider.
Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help, but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs that go into the side of the mags. It is very common for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will have one huge amount of noise.
If the noise is still there even when you have performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've got some other device radiating energy in the aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to try and identify it.
Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it where it is coming from. If you can't identify the noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased) filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force" filter consisting of two caps and an inductor. Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's source.
The tests described above will usually nail the problem in short order.
Mark Bitterlich
p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away. Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the mags back on and the engine once again is actually "running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it in slowly. Common sense applies.
--- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D. <viperdoc(at)mindspring.com> wrote:
[quote] From: Roger Kemp M.D. <viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
"Roger Kemp M.D." <viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is the most
likely source
for RPM related noise.
Doc
--
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scott-p(at)texas.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 6:07 pm Post subject: RF interference |
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Thanks Mark,
I knew that you would have a great, step by step method.
Went out to the hangar today: looks like the P-leads are the
culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from the connector and about 1
cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze". I'll spend some time
tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the connector (it appears that
this has been done before and that the solder joints have failed...),
and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
Now for the next question: any ideas where to find a cover for the tach
generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital tach (which takes its
data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the back of the mag
switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a big open fitting with a
drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the outside, of course.
Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided information. This list
is a tremendous asset to the continued operation of these airplanes.
Scott
On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
[quote]
Do the following:
Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires to break.
If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane. Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
You're now a glider.
Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help, but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs that go into the side of the mags. It is very common for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will have one huge amount of noise.
If the noise is still there even when you have performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've got some other device radiating energy in the aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to try and identify it.
Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it where it is coming from. If you can't identify the noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased) filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force" filter consisting of two caps and an inductor. Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's source.
The tests described above will usually nail the problem in short order.
Mark Bitterlich
p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away. Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the mags back on and the engine once again is actually "running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it in slowly. Common sense applies.
--- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com> wrote:
> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
> Subject: RE: RF interference
> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
>
> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>
> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is the most
> likely source
> for RPM related noise.
> Doc
>
> --
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 12:36 pm Post subject: RF interference |
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Hmmm!
I need to add one step to my troubleshooting procedures Scott:
Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
To answer your question: When pulling the Tach Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there you go. You make it yourself. You need to be very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to take off. Talk to Dennis about tha
--- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
[quote] From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Subject: Re: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Thanks Mark,
I knew that you would have a great, step by step method.
Went out to the hangar today: looks like the P-leads are
the
culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from the
connector and about 1
cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze". I'll spend
some time
tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the connector (it
appears that
this has been done before and that the solder joints have
failed...),
and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
Now for the next question: any ideas where to find a cover
for the tach
generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital tach (which
takes its
data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the back of the
mag
switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a big open
fitting with a
drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the outside,
of course.
Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
information. This list
is a tremendous asset to the continued operation of these
airplanes.
Scott
On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Yak
Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Do the following:
>
> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run
the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is
indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the
Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this
plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires
to break.
>
> If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane.
Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the
mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>
> You're now a glider.
>
> Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have
a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help,
but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs
that go into the side of the mags. It is very common
for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of
maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off
the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will
have one huge amount of noise.
>
> If the noise is still there even when you have
performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've
got some other device radiating energy in the
aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to
try and identify it.
>
> Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in
via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted
these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the
end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is
much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it
where it is coming from. If you can't identify the
noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the
power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power
wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as
simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased)
filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force"
filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much
cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power
wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the
antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's
source.
>
> The tests described above will usually nail the
problem in short order.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags
off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is
because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags
off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are
listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away.
Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine
windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although
the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the
mags back on and the engine once again is actually
"running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it
in slowly. Common sense applies.
>
> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
wrote:
>
>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
>> --> Yak-List message posted by:
>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>
>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is
the most
>> likely source
>> for RPM related noise.
>> Doc
>>
>> --
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 12:48 pm Post subject: RF interference |
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|
Hmmm!
I need to add one step to my troubleshooting procedures Scott:
Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
To answer your question: When pulling the Tach Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there you go. You make it yourself. You need to be very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to take off. Talk to Dennis about that for details.
Somehow I just managed to send this message when my fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here is the end of the message, sorry.
Going back to your noise on your radios. I hate to tell you this Scott, but those new digital tachs that attach to your P leads are a real source of radio noise. This is the forth time I have had a person who installed that tach start talking about radio noise. I also have personal experience with that thing myself.
Given that your Tach Generator is now removed from the aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach that used your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that your new radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you should repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that will help. But you also are going to have to go back to the wires that have been attached behind the mag switch and make darn sure that shielded wires were used there as well. Just leaving a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E. Where there is no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to act as an antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I had to replace all of that wiring to the digital tach, and then... get ready for this….. I had to make an actual BOX out of aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that box (a Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
So that is the downside of using that kind of Tach, I am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT TACH, and I love the way it works, but since it uses the P leads, you have to really pay attention to your shielding. There is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind of noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum and if you are anywhere in the near field from this noise, you’re pretty much screwed.
One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a handheld VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a paperclip into the center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook headphones to the handheld radio. Now start the aircraft and use the radio as a “test wand” and run it around the wiring to try and find the source. This is not easy and takes some effort.
Bottom line: Your noise is coming from your P leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry Christmas.
Mark Bitterlich
--- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
[quote] From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Subject: Re: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Thanks Mark,
I knew that you would have a great, step by step method.
Went out to the hangar today: looks like the P-leads are
the
culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from the
connector and about 1
cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze". I'll spend
some time
tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the connector (it
appears that
this has been done before and that the solder joints have
failed...),
and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
Now for the next question: any ideas where to find a cover
for the tach
generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital tach (which
takes its
data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the back of the
mag
switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a big open
fitting with a
drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the outside,
of course.
Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
information. This list
is a tremendous asset to the continued operation of these
airplanes.
Scott
On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Yak
Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Do the following:
>
> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run
the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is
indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the
Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this
plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires
to break.
>
> If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane.
Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the
mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>
> You're now a glider.
>
> Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have
a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help,
but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs
that go into the side of the mags. It is very common
for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of
maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off
the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will
have one huge amount of noise.
>
> If the noise is still there even when you have
performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've
got some other device radiating energy in the
aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to
try and identify it.
>
> Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in
via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted
these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the
end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is
much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it
where it is coming from. If you can't identify the
noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the
power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power
wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as
simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased)
filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force"
filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much
cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power
wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the
antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's
source.
>
> The tests described above will usually nail the
problem in short order.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags
off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is
because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags
off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are
listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away.
Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine
windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although
the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the
mags back on and the engine once again is actually
"running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it
in slowly. Common sense applies.
>
> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
wrote:
>
>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
>> --> Yak-List message posted by:
>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>
>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is
the most
>> likely source
>> for RPM related noise.
>> Doc
>>
>> --
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scott-p(at)texas.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 2:35 pm Post subject: RF interference |
|
|
Thanks Mark,
I didn't mention the tach because, frankly, I didn't think about it. The
tach appears to be wired at the mag switch, and and that cabling is
unshielded. I don't know if that is at issue or not, but given what
happened today, I think not...
Having said that, I am 98% certain I have found the problem. I soldered
the shield back on the right (#1) mag and now I have the problem only
when the left (#2) mag is operating (i.e., position "2" and "1+2"). I
will repeat the process with the left mag tomorrow, and I suspect that I
am done. I am not particularly happy with the quality of the solder
joints (it is hard to solder in the engine bay...) have you had any
experience with copper tape shielding? It seems like an obvious solution
rather than trying to solder behind the engine...
I will take a photo of the location of the former tach generator (or at
least what I think is the location...) and see what you think. Given
that both Jill and George have pre-manufactured plates, I will likely
get one from one of them and put that on.
Thanks again,
Scott
On 12-18-2010 13:33, Yak Pilot wrote:
[quote]
Hmmm!
I need to add one step to my troubleshooting procedures Scott:
Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
To answer your question: When pulling the Tach Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there you go. You make it yourself. You need to be very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to take off. Talk to Dennis about tha
--- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
> Subject: Re: RF interference
> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>
> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>
> Thanks Mark,
>
> I knew that you would have a great, step by step method.
>
> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the P-leads are
> the
> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from the
> connector and about 1
> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze". I'll spend
> some time
> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the connector (it
> appears that
> this has been done before and that the solder joints have
> failed...),
> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>
> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find a cover
> for the tach
> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital tach (which
> takes its
> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the back of the
> mag
> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a big open
> fitting with a
> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the outside,
> of course.
>
> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
> information. This list
> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation of these
> airplanes.
>
> Scott
>
> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>
> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>> Do the following:
>>
>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run
> the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is
> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the
> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this
> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires
> to break.
>> If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane.
> Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the
> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>> You're now a glider.
>>
>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have
> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help,
> but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs
> that go into the side of the mags. It is very common
> for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of
> maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off
> the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will
> have one huge amount of noise.
>> If the noise is still there even when you have
> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've
> got some other device radiating energy in the
> aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to
> try and identify it.
>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in
> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted
> these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the
> end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is
> much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it
> where it is coming from. If you can't identify the
> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the
> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power
> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as
> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased)
> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force"
> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much
> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power
> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the
> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's
> source.
>> The tests described above will usually nail the
> problem in short order.
>> Mark Bitterlich
>>
>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags
> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is
> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags
> off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are
> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away.
> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine
> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although
> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the
> mags back on and the engine once again is actually
> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it
> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
> wrote:
>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
>>>
>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>
>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is
> the most
>>> likely source
>>> for RPM related noise.
>>> Doc
>>>
>>> --
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scott-p(at)texas.net Guest
|
Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 2:42 pm Post subject: RF interference |
|
|
Ahh.
Perhaps I should shield the wires to the tach, too. The interference
really does go away to essentially nothing (ok, I get an occasional
"pop" or two, but NOTHING like before) when running on just Mag 1 now,
so if I can accomplish the same thing with Mag 2, then I am happy.
Will look into the shielding on those wires after fixing P-lead on Mag
2, and report back.
Scott
On 12-18-2010 13:46, Yak Pilot wrote:
[quote]
Hmmm!
I need to add one step to my troubleshooting procedures Scott:
Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
To answer your question: When pulling the Tach Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there you go. You make it yourself. You need to be very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to take off. Talk to Dennis about that for details.
Somehow I just managed to send this message when my fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here is the end of the message, sorry.
Going back to your noise on your radios. I hate to tell you this Scott, but those new digital tachs that attach to your P leads are a real source of radio noise. This is the forth time I have had a person who installed that tach start talking about radio noise. I also have personal experience with that thing myself.
Given that your Tach Generator is now removed from the aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach that used your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that your new radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you should repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that will help. But you also are going to have to go back to the wires that have been attached behind the mag switch and make darn sure that shielded wires were used there as well. Just leaving a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E. Where there is no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to act as an antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I had to replace all of that wiring to the digital tach, and then... get ready for this….. I had to make an actual BOX out of aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that box (a Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
So that is the downside of using that kind of Tach, I am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT TACH, and I love the way it works, but since it uses the P leads, you have to really pay attention to your shielding. There is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind of noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum and if you are anywhere in the near field from this noise, you’re pretty much screwed.
One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a handheld VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a paperclip into the center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook headphones to the handheld radio. Now start the aircraft and use the radio as a “test wand” and run it around the wiring to try and find the source. This is not easy and takes some effort.
Bottom line: Your noise is coming from your P leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry Christmas.
Mark Bitterlich
--- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
> Subject: Re: RF interference
> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>
> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>
> Thanks Mark,
>
> I knew that you would have a great, step by step method.
>
> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the P-leads are
> the
> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from the
> connector and about 1
> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze". I'll spend
> some time
> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the connector (it
> appears that
> this has been done before and that the solder joints have
> failed...),
> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>
> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find a cover
> for the tach
> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital tach (which
> takes its
> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the back of the
> mag
> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a big open
> fitting with a
> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the outside,
> of course.
>
> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
> information. This list
> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation of these
> airplanes.
>
> Scott
>
> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>
> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>> Do the following:
>>
>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it back. Run
> the aircraft. Does the noise go away? Then it is
> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely shielding at the
> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful taking this
> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on these wires
> to break.
>> If the noise does not go away, fly the airplane.
> Over the airport come to complete idle and then shut the
> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>> You're now a glider.
>>
>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then you have
> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters will help,
> but before you go to that effort, look at the P leak plugs
> that go into the side of the mags. It is very common
> for people to twist these plugs off during some kind of
> maint. action and in the process twist the shield right off
> the plug as well. If the P Lead is unshielded you will
> have one huge amount of noise.
>> If the noise is still there even when you have
> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely) then you've
> got some other device radiating energy in the
> aircraft. Start turning everything that you can off to
> try and identify it.
>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is coming in
> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have posted
> these suggestions before, but it is something you do at the
> end of troubleshooting and not the beginning. It is
> much easier to identify the noise source and eliminate it
> where it is coming from. If you can't identify the
> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming in via the
> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the input power
> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This can be as
> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive (purchased)
> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute force"
> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective and much
> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via the power
> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via the
> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the noise at it's
> source.
>> The tests described above will usually nail the
> problem in short order.
>> Mark Bitterlich
>>
>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the mags
> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the ground is
> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with the mags
> off, and you can leave them off much longer while you are
> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes away.
> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the engine
> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt anything, although
> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you turn the
> mags back on and the engine once again is actually
> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%. Bring it
> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
> wrote:
>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35 PM
>>>
>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>
>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator. That is
> the most
>>> likely source
>>> for RPM related noise.
>>> Doc
>>>
>>> --
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
|
Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:23 pm Post subject: RF interference |
|
|
Scott,
Any wire at all that hooks to the P lead of any mag is a noise source. Period. How much it will influence the radio is an open question. Many folks that are unfamiliar with radio theory think that radio interference is something you can hear in your headset. Not necessarily the case at all.
But the bottom line is always the bottom line. If you as the pilot feel that your radio is performing well enough for you to be happy with it, that is all that really matters in the end.
I am not sure why you are having such a difficult time soldering the P lead wiring, but then ... I am not there looking at it. Normally you can remove some clamps and tie-ties (or whatever) and have plenty of slack available to be able to get that plug out into the open. If you try to solder it without taking the time to remove all that junk so that you have some slack, you're right, it can be miserable.
Typically, I have had to re-do the whole P lead connector, by unsoldering the center conductor from the metal piece, cutting it back and starting from scratch.
Just be aware... anything at all attached to a P lead that is unshielded is going to radiate energy. How much and where and if you can accept it, is of course a decision that must be made by you.
Plate: Get one from Jill and then you can see exactly which one that is already on there that you have to remove in order to put the new plate on.
Take care,
Mark
--- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
[quote] From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Subject: Re: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 5:32 PM
Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Thanks Mark,
I didn't mention the tach because, frankly, I didn't think
about it. The
tach appears to be wired at the mag switch, and and that
cabling is
unshielded. I don't know if that is at issue or not, but
given what
happened today, I think not...
Having said that, I am 98% certain I have found the
problem. I soldered
the shield back on the right (#1) mag and now I have the
problem only
when the left (#2) mag is operating (i.e., position "2" and
"1+2"). I
will repeat the process with the left mag tomorrow, and I
suspect that I
am done. I am not particularly happy with the quality of
the solder
joints (it is hard to solder in the engine bay...) have you
had any
experience with copper tape shielding? It seems like an
obvious solution
rather than trying to solder behind the engine...
I will take a photo of the location of the former tach
generator (or at
least what I think is the location...) and see what you
think. Given
that both Jill and George have pre-manufactured plates, I
will likely
get one from one of them and put that on.
Thanks again,
Scott
On 12-18-2010 13:33, Yak Pilot wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Yak
Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Hmmm!
>
> I need to add one step to my troubleshooting
procedures Scott:
>
> Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that
takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very
high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
>
> I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you
did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed
(incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you
put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
>
> To answer your question: When pulling the Tach
Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that
bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there
you go. You make it yourself. You need to be
very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong
"plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive
that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I
am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and
stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach
drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will
in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment
and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart
distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell
you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what
you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is
hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to
take off. Talk to Dennis about tha
>
> --- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
wrote:
>
>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>> --> Yak-List message posted by:
>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>
>> Thanks Mark,
>>
>> I knew that you would have a great, step by step
method.
>>
>> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the
P-leads are
>> the
>> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from
the
>> connector and about 1
>> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze".
I'll spend
>> some time
>> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the
connector (it
>> appears that
>> this has been done before and that the solder
joints have
>> failed...),
>> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>>
>> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find
a cover
>> for the tach
>> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital
tach (which
>> takes its
>> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the
back of the
>> mag
>> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a
big open
>> fitting with a
>> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the
outside,
>> of course.
>>
>> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
>> information. This list
>> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation
of these
>> airplanes.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>> -->Yak-List message
posted by: Yak
>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>> Do the following:
>>>
>>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it
back. Run
>> the aircraft. Does the noise go away?
Then it is
>> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely
shielding at the
>> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful
taking this
>> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on
these wires
>> to break.
>>> If the noise does not go away, fly the
airplane.
>> Over the airport come to complete idle and then
shut the
>> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>>> You're now a glider.
>>>
>>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then
you have
>> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters
will help,
>> but before you go to that effort, look at the P
leak plugs
>> that go into the side of the mags. It is
very common
>> for people to twist these plugs off during some
kind of
>> maint. action and in the process twist the shield
right off
>> the plug as well. If the P Lead is
unshielded you will
>> have one huge amount of noise.
>>> If the noise is still there even when you
have
>> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely)
then you've
>> got some other device radiating energy in the
>> aircraft. Start turning everything that you
can off to
>> try and identify it.
>>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is
coming in
>> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have
posted
>> these suggestions before, but it is something you
do at the
>> end of troubleshooting and not the
beginning. It is
>> much easier to identify the noise source and
eliminate it
>> where it is coming from. If you can't
identify the
>> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming
in via the
>> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the
input power
>> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This
can be as
>> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive
(purchased)
>> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute
force"
>> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
>> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective
and much
>> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via
the power
>> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via
the
>> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the
noise at it's
>> source.
>>> The tests described above will usually nail
the
>> problem in short order.
>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>
>>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the
mags
>> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the
ground is
>> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with
the mags
>> off, and you can leave them off much longer while
you are
>> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes
away.
>> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the
engine
>> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt
anything, although
>> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you
turn the
>> mags back on and the engine once again is
actually
>> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%.
Bring it
>> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35
PM
>>>> -->Yak-List message
posted by:
>>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>
>>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator.
That is
>> the most
>>>> likely source
>>>> for RPM related noise.
>>>> Doc
>>>>
>>>> --
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 4:34 pm Post subject: RF interference |
|
|
Scott, without going into a long discussion on how radios work, the simple fact is that you can not determine how much interference you are getting simply by plugging in the headset and listening for noise. Without using test equipment it is sometimes hard to quantify.
However, there are some simple tests that allow the human ear to determine if you are being impacted by it or not.
The most simple test is to tune the radio to a really weak signal that is just barely readable, and then start the engine and see how the noise impacts the reception of that signal. That can be hard to do at the airport where most RF sources are right there on the field. This test will only work if you can tune into a signal that is already right on the threshold of detection. If you can do that now, great. If not, you need a sig-gen and somebody who knows how to use it.
Failing that, go fly and tune your radio into some ASOS or ATIS transmission a long way aways and listen to them. Then turn off the mags and see how much the signal improves. If it does, then you need to attack your shielding more vigorously. If turning the engine off with the mag switch does not impact your weak received signal at all, then you have done as much as you can to shield P leads. Crude but it will work..
Mark Bitterlich
--- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
[quote] From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Subject: Re: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 5:37 PM
Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Ahh.
Perhaps I should shield the wires to the tach, too.
The interference
really does go away to essentially nothing (ok, I get an
occasional
"pop" or two, but NOTHING like before) when running on just
Mag 1 now,
so if I can accomplish the same thing with Mag 2, then I am
happy.
Will look into the shielding on those wires after fixing
P-lead on Mag
2, and report back.
Scott
On 12-18-2010 13:46, Yak Pilot wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Yak
Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>
>
> Hmmm!
>
> I need to add one step to my troubleshooting
procedures Scott:
>
> Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that
takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very
high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
>
> I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you
did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed
(incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you
put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
>
> To answer your question: When pulling the Tach
Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that
bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there
you go. You make it yourself. You need to be
very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong
"plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive
that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I
am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and
stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach
drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will
in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment
and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart
distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell
you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what
you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is
hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to
take off. Talk to Dennis about that for details.
>
> Somehow I just managed to send this message when my
fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here is the
end of the message, sorry.
>
> Going back to your noise on your radios. I hate
to tell you this Scott, but those new digital tachs that
attach to your P leads are a real source of radio
noise. This is the forth time I have had a person who
installed that tach start talking about radio noise. I
also have personal experience with that thing myself.
>
> Given that your Tach Generator is now removed from the
aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach that used
your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that your new
radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you should
repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that will
help. But you also are going to have to go back to the
wires that have been attached behind the mag switch and make
darn sure that shielded wires were used there as well.
Just leaving a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E. Where there is
no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to act as an
antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
>
> In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I had to
replace all of that wiring to the digital tach, and then...
get ready for this….. I had to make an actual BOX out of
aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that box (a
Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
>
> So that is the downside of using that kind of Tach, I
am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT TACH, and I
love the way it works, but since it uses the P leads, you
have to really pay attention to your shielding. There
is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind of
noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum and if you
are anywhere in the near field from this noise, you’re
pretty much screwed.
>
> One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a handheld
VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a paperclip into the
center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook headphones
to the handheld radio. Now start the aircraft and use
the radio as a “test wand” and run it around the wiring
to try and find the source. This is not easy and takes
some effort.
>
> Bottom line: Your noise is coming from your P
leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry Christmas.
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> --- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
wrote:
>
>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>> --> Yak-List message posted by:
>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>
>> Thanks Mark,
>>
>> I knew that you would have a great, step by step
method.
>>
>> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the
P-leads are
>> the
>> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from
the
>> connector and about 1
>> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze".
I'll spend
>> some time
>> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the
connector (it
>> appears that
>> this has been done before and that the solder
joints have
>> failed...),
>> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>>
>> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find
a cover
>> for the tach
>> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital
tach (which
>> takes its
>> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the
back of the
>> mag
>> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a
big open
>> fitting with a
>> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the
outside,
>> of course.
>>
>> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
>> information. This list
>> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation
of these
>> airplanes.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>> --> Yak-List message
posted by: Yak
>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>> Do the following:
>>>
>>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it
back. Run
>> the aircraft. Does the noise go away?
Then it is
>> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely
shielding at the
>> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful
taking this
>> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on
these wires
>> to break.
>>> If the noise does not go away, fly the
airplane.
>> Over the airport come to complete idle and then
shut the
>> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>>> You're now a glider.
>>>
>>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then
you have
>> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters
will help,
>> but before you go to that effort, look at the P
leak plugs
>> that go into the side of the mags. It is
very common
>> for people to twist these plugs off during some
kind of
>> maint. action and in the process twist the shield
right off
>> the plug as well. If the P Lead is
unshielded you will
>> have one huge amount of noise.
>>> If the noise is still there even when you
have
>> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely)
then you've
>> got some other device radiating energy in the
>> aircraft. Start turning everything that you
can off to
>> try and identify it.
>>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is
coming in
>> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have
posted
>> these suggestions before, but it is something you
do at the
>> end of troubleshooting and not the
beginning. It is
>> much easier to identify the noise source and
eliminate it
>> where it is coming from. If you can't
identify the
>> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming
in via the
>> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the
input power
>> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This
can be as
>> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive
(purchased)
>> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute
force"
>> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
>> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective
and much
>> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via
the power
>> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via
the
>> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the
noise at it's
>> source.
>>> The tests described above will usually nail
the
>> problem in short order.
>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>
>>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the
mags
>> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the
ground is
>> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with
the mags
>> off, and you can leave them off much longer while
you are
>> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes
away.
>> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the
engine
>> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt
anything, although
>> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you
turn the
>> mags back on and the engine once again is
actually
>> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%.
Bring it
>> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>> wrote:
>>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35
PM
>>>> --> Yak-List message
posted by:
>>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>
>>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator.
That is
>> the most
>>>> likely source
>>>> for RPM related noise.
>>>> Doc
>>>>
>>>> --
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Back to top |
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scott-p(at)texas.net Guest
|
Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 7:45 pm Post subject: RF interference |
|
|
Hi Mark,
Of course this all makes sense, and you are right. Fortunately I have
such a source readily available... the ATIS on the field at ELP is 11 NM
away--straight LOS through a mountain. Under good circumstances it is
just audible on my field (when the Mexican cell phones are playing
tricks, it isn't audible at all, but that's another story...), so I can
use that for the test you propose. I don't have access to a signal
generator, nor do I have any interest in trying to mess with it beyond
that which is required to obtain good communication in both directions.
I am just happy it is something straightforward and not in the power
system. I was not looking forward to that job. Frankly, shielding the
wires from the mag switch to the tach should be easy (it's all behind
the panel with a total run of less than 2 feet). Now the question which
end to ground, and to what? Do you know if the housing of the mag switch
will tolerate being grounded (perhaps it already IS grounded?) or does
it need to "float"?
Thanks,
Scott
On 12-18-2010 17:31, Yak Pilot wrote:
[quote]
Scott, without going into a long discussion on how radios work, the simple fact is that you can not determine how much interference you are getting simply by plugging in the headset and listening for noise. Without using test equipment it is sometimes hard to quantify.
However, there are some simple tests that allow the human ear to determine if you are being impacted by it or not.
The most simple test is to tune the radio to a really weak signal that is just barely readable, and then start the engine and see how the noise impacts the reception of that signal. That can be hard to do at the airport where most RF sources are right there on the field. This test will only work if you can tune into a signal that is already right on the threshold of detection. If you can do that now, great. If not, you need a sig-gen and somebody who knows how to use it.
Failing that, go fly and tune your radio into some ASOS or ATIS transmission a long way aways and listen to them. Then turn off the mags and see how much the signal improves. If it does, then you need to attack your shielding more vigorously. If turning the engine off with the mag switch does not impact your weak received signal at all, then you have done as much as you can to shield P leads. Crude but it will work..
Mark Bitterlich
--- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
> Subject: Re: RF interference
> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 5:37 PM
>
> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>
> Ahh.
>
> Perhaps I should shield the wires to the tach, too.
> The interference
> really does go away to essentially nothing (ok, I get an
> occasional
> "pop" or two, but NOTHING like before) when running on just
> Mag 1 now,
> so if I can accomplish the same thing with Mag 2, then I am
> happy.
>
> Will look into the shielding on those wires after fixing
> P-lead on Mag
> 2, and report back.
>
> Scott
>
> On 12-18-2010 13:46, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>
> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>
>> Hmmm!
>>
>> I need to add one step to my troubleshooting
> procedures Scott:
>> Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that
> takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very
> high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
>> I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you
> did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed
> (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you
> put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
>> To answer your question: When pulling the Tach
> Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that
> bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there
> you go. You make it yourself. You need to be
> very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong
> "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive
> that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I
> am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and
> stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach
> drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will
> in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment
> and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart
> distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell
> you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what
> you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is
> hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to
> take off. Talk to Dennis about that for details.
>> Somehow I just managed to send this message when my
> fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here is the
> end of the message, sorry.
>> Going back to your noise on your radios. I hate
> to tell you this Scott, but those new digital tachs that
> attach to your P leads are a real source of radio
> noise. This is the forth time I have had a person who
> installed that tach start talking about radio noise. I
> also have personal experience with that thing myself.
>> Given that your Tach Generator is now removed from the
> aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach that used
> your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that your new
> radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you should
> repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that will
> help. But you also are going to have to go back to the
> wires that have been attached behind the mag switch and make
> darn sure that shielded wires were used there as well.
> Just leaving a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E. Where there is
> no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to act as an
> antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
>> In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I had to
> replace all of that wiring to the digital tach, and then...
> get ready for this….. I had to make an actual BOX out of
> aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that box (a
> Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
>> So that is the downside of using that kind of Tach, I
> am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT TACH, and I
> love the way it works, but since it uses the P leads, you
> have to really pay attention to your shielding. There
> is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind of
> noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum and if you
> are anywhere in the near field from this noise, you’re
> pretty much screwed.
>> One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a handheld
> VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a paperclip into the
> center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook headphones
> to the handheld radio. Now start the aircraft and use
> the radio as a “test wand” and run it around the wiring
> to try and find the source. This is not easy and takes
> some effort.
>> Bottom line: Your noise is coming from your P
> leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry Christmas.
>> Mark Bitterlich
>>
>>
>> --- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
> wrote:
>>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>>>
>>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>>
>>> Thanks Mark,
>>>
>>> I knew that you would have a great, step by step
> method.
>>> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the
> P-leads are
>>> the
>>> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from
> the
>>> connector and about 1
>>> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze".
> I'll spend
>>> some time
>>> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the
> connector (it
>>> appears that
>>> this has been done before and that the solder
> joints have
>>> failed...),
>>> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>>>
>>> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find
> a cover
>>> for the tach
>>> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital
> tach (which
>>> takes its
>>> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the
> back of the
>>> mag
>>> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a
> big open
>>> fitting with a
>>> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the
> outside,
>>> of course.
>>>
>>> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
>>> information. This list
>>> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation
> of these
>>> airplanes.
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
>>> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>>> --> Yak-List message
> posted by: Yak
>>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>>> Do the following:
>>>>
>>>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it
> back. Run
>>> the aircraft. Does the noise go away?
> Then it is
>>> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely
> shielding at the
>>> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful
> taking this
>>> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on
> these wires
>>> to break.
>>>> If the noise does not go away, fly the
> airplane.
>>> Over the airport come to complete idle and then
> shut the
>>> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>>>> You're now a glider.
>>>>
>>>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then
> you have
>>> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters
> will help,
>>> but before you go to that effort, look at the P
> leak plugs
>>> that go into the side of the mags. It is
> very common
>>> for people to twist these plugs off during some
> kind of
>>> maint. action and in the process twist the shield
> right off
>>> the plug as well. If the P Lead is
> unshielded you will
>>> have one huge amount of noise.
>>>> If the noise is still there even when you
> have
>>> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely)
> then you've
>>> got some other device radiating energy in the
>>> aircraft. Start turning everything that you
> can off to
>>> try and identify it.
>>>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is
> coming in
>>> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have
> posted
>>> these suggestions before, but it is something you
> do at the
>>> end of troubleshooting and not the
> beginning. It is
>>> much easier to identify the noise source and
> eliminate it
>>> where it is coming from. If you can't
> identify the
>>> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming
> in via the
>>> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the
> input power
>>> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This
> can be as
>>> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive
> (purchased)
>>> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute
> force"
>>> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
>>> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective
> and much
>>> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via
> the power
>>> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via
> the
>>> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the
> noise at it's
>>> source.
>>>> The tests described above will usually nail
> the
>>> problem in short order.
>>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>>
>>>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the
> mags
>>> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the
> ground is
>>> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with
> the mags
>>> off, and you can leave them off much longer while
> you are
>>> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes
> away.
>>> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the
> engine
>>> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt
> anything, although
>>> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you
> turn the
>>> mags back on and the engine once again is
> actually
>>> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%.
> Bring it
>>> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>>>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35
> PM
>>>>> --> Yak-List message
> posted by:
>>>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>>
>>>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator.
> That is
>>> the most
>>>>> likely source
>>>>> for RPM related noise.
>>>>> Doc
>>>>>
>>>>> --
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 8:03 am Post subject: RF interference |
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Scott,
The back of the mag switch is in a metal "can". At the rear of the
"can" the braided shield of the P leads is affixed to the "can", thus
grounding it. FWIW, assuming the mag switch is wired correctly and
looking at the front of the mag switch, the #1 position is the left mag,
looking at the engine from the cockpit. When the mag switch is in the
#1 position, #2 mag P lead is grounded and vice versa when the switch is
in the #2 position.
Dennis
On 12/18/2010 9:43 PM, Scott Poehlmann wrote:
[quote]
Hi Mark,
Of course this all makes sense, and you are right. Fortunately I have
such a source readily available... the ATIS on the field at ELP is 11
NM away--straight LOS through a mountain. Under good circumstances it
is just audible on my field (when the Mexican cell phones are playing
tricks, it isn't audible at all, but that's another story...), so I
can use that for the test you propose. I don't have access to a signal
generator, nor do I have any interest in trying to mess with it beyond
that which is required to obtain good communication in both directions.
I am just happy it is something straightforward and not in the power
system. I was not looking forward to that job. Frankly, shielding the
wires from the mag switch to the tach should be easy (it's all behind
the panel with a total run of less than 2 feet). Now the question
which end to ground, and to what? Do you know if the housing of the
mag switch will tolerate being grounded (perhaps it already IS
grounded?) or does it need to "float"?
Thanks,
Scott
On 12-18-2010 17:31, Yak Pilot wrote:
>
>
> Scott, without going into a long discussion on how radios work, the
> simple fact is that you can not determine how much interference you
> are getting simply by plugging in the headset and listening for
> noise. Without using test equipment it is sometimes hard to quantify.
>
> However, there are some simple tests that allow the human ear to
> determine if you are being impacted by it or not.
>
> The most simple test is to tune the radio to a really weak signal
> that is just barely readable, and then start the engine and see how
> the noise impacts the reception of that signal. That can be hard to
> do at the airport where most RF sources are right there on the
> field. This test will only work if you can tune into a signal that
> is already right on the threshold of detection. If you can do that
> now, great. If not, you need a sig-gen and somebody who knows how to
> use it.
>
> Failing that, go fly and tune your radio into some ASOS or ATIS
> transmission a long way aways and listen to them. Then turn off the
> mags and see how much the signal improves. If it does, then you need
> to attack your shielding more vigorously. If turning the engine off
> with the mag switch does not impact your weak received signal at all,
> then you have done as much as you can to shield P leads. Crude but
> it will work..
>
> Mark Bitterlich
> --- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
>
>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 5:37 PM
>>
>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>
>> Ahh.
>>
>> Perhaps I should shield the wires to the tach, too. The interference
>> really does go away to essentially nothing (ok, I get an
>> occasional
>> "pop" or two, but NOTHING like before) when running on just
>> Mag 1 now,
>> so if I can accomplish the same thing with Mag 2, then I am
>> happy.
>>
>> Will look into the shielding on those wires after fixing
>> P-lead on Mag
>> 2, and report back.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On 12-18-2010 13:46, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>>
>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Hmmm!
>>>
>>> I need to add one step to my troubleshooting
>> procedures Scott:
>>> Step Three: Have you added a digital tach that
>> takes it's input off the P Leads. If so, that is very
>> high potential for noise addition to your aircraft.
>>> I actually thought of mentioning that, but since you
>> did not bring it up in your initial email, I guessed
>> (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything since you
>> put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
>>> To answer your question: When pulling the Tach
>> Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate made that
>> bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate and there
>> you go. You make it yourself. You need to be
>> very very careful here, because if you remove the wrong
>> "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the tach drive
>> that also is part of the air distributor drive. What I
>> am saying here is that if you pull the wrong plates and
>> stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over the tach
>> drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside, which will
>> in turn through your air start distributor out of adjustment
>> and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the airstart
>> distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone might tell
>> you otherwise. So Scott, be very very careful of what
>> you take apart in that area. Without photo's it is
>> hard for me to describe what to take off and what not to
>> take off. Talk to Dennis about that for details.
>>> Somehow I just managed to send this message when my
>> fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here is the
>> end of the message, sorry.
>>> Going back to your noise on your radios. I hate
>> to tell you this Scott, but those new digital tachs that
>> attach to your P leads are a real source of radio
>> noise. This is the forth time I have had a person who
>> installed that tach start talking about radio noise. I
>> also have personal experience with that thing myself.
>>> Given that your Tach Generator is now removed from the
>> aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach that used
>> your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that your new
>> radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you should
>> repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that will
>> help. But you also are going to have to go back to the
>> wires that have been attached behind the mag switch and make
>> darn sure that shielded wires were used there as well. Just leaving
>> a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E. Where there is
>> no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to act as an
>> antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
>>> In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I had to
>> replace all of that wiring to the digital tach, and then...
>> get ready for this….. I had to make an actual BOX out of
>> aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that box (a
>> Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
>>> So that is the downside of using that kind of Tach, I
>> am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT TACH, and I
>> love the way it works, but since it uses the P leads, you
>> have to really pay attention to your shielding. There
>> is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind of
>> noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum and if you
>> are anywhere in the near field from this noise, you’re
>> pretty much screwed.
>>> One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a handheld
>> VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a paperclip into the
>> center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook headphones
>> to the handheld radio. Now start the aircraft and use
>> the radio as a “test wand” and run it around the wiring
>> to try and find the source. This is not easy and takes
>> some effort.
>>> Bottom line: Your noise is coming from your P
>> leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry Christmas.
>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> wrote:
>>>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>>>>
>>>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Mark,
>>>>
>>>> I knew that you would have a great, step by step
>> method.
>>>> Went out to the hangar today: looks like the
>> P-leads are
>>>> the
>>>> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached from
>> the
>>>> connector and about 1
>>>> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the breeze".
>> I'll spend
>>>> some time
>>>> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to the
>> connector (it
>>>> appears that
>>>> this has been done before and that the solder
>> joints have
>>>> failed...),
>>>> and will advise if this doesn't fix the problem.
>>>>
>>>> Now for the next question: any ideas where to find
>> a cover
>>>> for the tach
>>>> generator drive? I am running a Horizon digital
>> tach (which
>>>> takes its
>>>> data from the mag--in fact it is wired into the
>> back of the
>>>> mag
>>>> switch...), and I have no tach generator, just a
>> big open
>>>> fitting with a
>>>> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded on the
>> outside,
>>>> of course.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again, and to everyone else who provided
>>>> information. This list
>>>> is a tremendous asset to the continued operation
>> of these
>>>> airplanes.
>>>>
>>>> Scott
>>>>
>>>> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>>>> --> Yak-List message
>> posted by: Yak
>>>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>>>> Do the following:
>>>>>
>>>>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and tie it
>> back. Run
>>>> the aircraft. Does the noise go away?
>> Then it is
>>>> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most likely
>> shielding at the
>>>> Tach Generator plug itself. Be careful
>> taking this
>>>> plug apart as it is common for the soldering on
>> these wires
>>>> to break.
>>>>> If the noise does not go away, fly the
>> airplane.
>>>> Over the airport come to complete idle and then
>> shut the
>>>> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>>>>> You're now a glider.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did the noise go away? If it did, then
>> you have
>>>> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise filters
>> will help,
>>>> but before you go to that effort, look at the P
>> leak plugs
>>>> that go into the side of the mags. It is
>> very common
>>>> for people to twist these plugs off during some
>> kind of
>>>> maint. action and in the process twist the shield
>> right off
>>>> the plug as well. If the P Lead is
>> unshielded you will
>>>> have one huge amount of noise.
>>>>> If the noise is still there even when you
>> have
>>>> performed these steps (whcih is highly unlikely)
>> then you've
>>>> got some other device radiating energy in the
>>>> aircraft. Start turning everything that you
>> can off to
>>>> try and identify it.
>>>>> Suggestions have been made to see if it is
>> coming in
>>>> via the antenna or the power wiring. I have
>> posted
>>>> these suggestions before, but it is something you
>> do at the
>>>> end of troubleshooting and not the
>> beginning. It is
>>>> much easier to identify the noise source and
>> eliminate it
>>>> where it is coming from. If you can't
>> identify the
>>>> noise and you are lucky enough to have it coming
>> in via the
>>>> power wires (again this is rare), a choke on the
>> input power
>>>> wiring can help eliminate the noise. This
>> can be as
>>>> simple as a snap on torroid, or an expensive
>> (purchased)
>>>> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L brute
>> force"
>>>> filter consisting of two caps and an inductor.
>>>> Usually, snap on torroids are just as effective
>> and much
>>>> cheaper. Again though, noise coming in via
>> the power
>>>> wiring is rare. It usually is coming in via
>> the
>>>> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate the
>> noise at it's
>>>> source.
>>>>> The tests described above will usually nail
>> the
>>>> problem in short order.
>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>>>
>>>>> p.s. The reason I recommend shutting the
>> mags
>>>> off at idle in flight versus doing it on the
>> ground is
>>>> because the engine keeps wind-milling even with
>> the mags
>>>> off, and you can leave them off much longer while
>> you are
>>>> listening for radio noise and seeing if it goes
>> away.
>>>> Shutting the engine off with the mags and the
>> engine
>>>> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt
>> anything, although
>>>> the engine will cool off really fast, so when you
>> turn the
>>>> mags back on and the engine once again is
>> actually
>>>> "running", don't just cob the power to 100%.
>> Bring it
>>>> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>>>>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>>> Subject: RE: RF interference
>>>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010, 1:35
>> PM
>>>>>> --> Yak-List message
>> posted by:
>>>>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Check the shielding on your Tac Generator.
>> That is
>>>> the most
>>>>>> likely source
>>>>>> for RPM related noise.
>>>>>> Doc
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
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Back to top |
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yakplt(at)yahoo.com Guest
|
Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:35 pm Post subject: RF interference |
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|
Good question.
Normally it is OK to ground both ends of the shield unless you are worried about "shield conduction". This is a case where the shield that is grounded at both ends in an aircraft becomes a better conductor of electricity than the frame of the aircraft itself. Some folks refer to this as a "ground loop".
If you are worried about it, just ground one end. But honestly, I doubt if you would have a problem grounding BOTH ends.
I really am not sure about the mag switch itself, but it should be already grounded. Just using shielded wire on the P leads and grounding the shield at each end should go miles and miles towards reducing noise.
Mark Bitterlich
--- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net> wrote:
[quote] From: Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Subject: Re: RF interference
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 10:43 PM
Scott Poehlmann <scott-p(at)texas.net>
Hi Mark,
Of course this all makes sense, and you are right.
Fortunately I have
such a source readily available... the ATIS on the field at
ELP is 11 NM
away--straight LOS through a mountain. Under good
circumstances it is
just audible on my field (when the Mexican cell phones are
playing
tricks, it isn't audible at all, but that's another
story...), so I can
use that for the test you propose. I don't have access to a
signal
generator, nor do I have any interest in trying to mess
with it beyond
that which is required to obtain good communication in both
directions.
I am just happy it is something straightforward and not in
the power
system. I was not looking forward to that job. Frankly,
shielding the
wires from the mag switch to the tach should be easy (it's
all behind
the panel with a total run of less than 2 feet). Now the
question which
end to ground, and to what? Do you know if the housing of
the mag switch
will tolerate being grounded (perhaps it already IS
grounded?) or does
it need to "float"?
Thanks,
Scott
On 12-18-2010 17:31, Yak Pilot wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: Yak
Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Scott, without going into a long discussion on how
radios work, the simple fact is that you can not determine
how much interference you are getting simply by plugging in
the headset and listening for noise. Without using
test equipment it is sometimes hard to quantify.
>
> However, there are some simple tests that allow the
human ear to determine if you are being impacted by it or
not.
>
> The most simple test is to tune the radio to a really
weak signal that is just barely readable, and then start the
engine and see how the noise impacts the reception of that
signal. That can be hard to do at the airport where
most RF sources are right there on the field. This
test will only work if you can tune into a signal that is
already right on the threshold of detection. If you
can do that now, great. If not, you need a sig-gen and
somebody who knows how to use it.
>
> Failing that, go fly and tune your radio into some
ASOS or ATIS transmission a long way aways and listen to
them. Then turn off the mags and see how much the
signal improves. If it does, then you need to attack
your shielding more vigorously. If turning the engine
off with the mag switch does not impact your weak received
signal at all, then you have done as much as you can to
shield P leads. Crude but it will work..
>
> Mark Bitterlich
>
>
> --- On Sat, 12/18/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
wrote:
>
>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Saturday, December 18, 2010, 5:37 PM
>> --> Yak-List message posted by:
>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>
>> Ahh.
>>
>> Perhaps I should shield the wires to the tach,
too.
>> The interference
>> really does go away to essentially nothing (ok, I
get an
>> occasional
>> "pop" or two, but NOTHING like before) when
running on just
>> Mag 1 now,
>> so if I can accomplish the same thing with Mag 2,
then I am
>> happy.
>>
>> Will look into the shielding on those wires after
fixing
>> P-lead on Mag
>> 2, and report back.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> On 12-18-2010 13:46, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>> --> Yak-List message
posted by: Yak
>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> Hmmm!
>>>
>>> I need to add one step to my troubleshooting
>> procedures Scott:
>>> Step Three: Have you added a digital
tach that
>> takes it's input off the P Leads. If so,
that is very
>> high potential for noise addition to your
aircraft.
>>> I actually thought of mentioning that, but
since you
>> did not bring it up in your initial email, I
guessed
>> (incorrectly) that you had not modified anything
since you
>> put in the new spark plugs and wire kit.
>>> To answer your question: When pulling
the Tach
>> Drive, most of the folks I know have had a plate
made that
>> bolts on with the four corner bolts to the plate
and there
>> you go. You make it yourself. You need
to be
>> very very careful here, because if you remove the
wrong
>> "plate" you also will expose the gearing for the
tach drive
>> that also is part of the air distributor
drive. What I
>> am saying here is that if you pull the wrong
plates and
>> stuff in an attempt to put a new cover plate over
the tach
>> drive, you can easily disturb the gearing inside,
which will
>> in turn through your air start distributor out of
adjustment
>> and then you are DEEP KIMSHEE! Re-timing the
airstart
>> distributor is NOT EASY regardless of what anyone
might tell
>> you otherwise. So Scott, be very very
careful of what
>> you take apart in that area. Without photo's
it is
>> hard for me to describe what to take off and what
not to
>> take off. Talk to Dennis about that for
details.
>>> Somehow I just managed to send this message
when my
>> fingers slipped on the keyboard… oops… so here
is the
>> end of the message, sorry.
>>> Going back to your noise on your radios.
I hate
>> to tell you this Scott, but those new digital
tachs that
>> attach to your P leads are a real source of radio
>> noise. This is the forth time I have had a
person who
>> installed that tach start talking about radio
noise. I
>> also have personal experience with that thing
myself.
>>> Given that your Tach Generator is now removed
from the
>> aircraft, and you have installed the Digital Tach
that used
>> your P leads for a input, I am 99.999% sure that
your new
>> radio noise is from the P leads. Yes, you
should
>> repair the shields down at the MAG’s and that
will
>> help. But you also are going to have to go
back to the
>> wires that have been attached behind the mag
switch and make
>> darn sure that shielded wires were used there as
well.
>> Just leaving a tiny bit of exposed wire (I.E.
Where there is
>> no shielding on the P leads) will allow that to
act as an
>> antenna and RADIATE NOISE all over the aircraft.
>>> In one aircraft I worked on (a Sukhoi 26) I
had to
>> replace all of that wiring to the digital tach,
and then...
>> get ready for this….. I had to make an actual
BOX out of
>> aluminum and enclose the whole tach inside that
box (a
>> Faraday Shield per se) and ground all that.
>>> So that is the downside of using that kind of
Tach, I
>> am sorry to have to say. It’s a GREAT
TACH, and I
>> love the way it works, but since it uses the P
leads, you
>> have to really pay attention to your
shielding. There
>> is usually no filter that can eliminate this kind
of
>> noise. Spark noise is very broad spectrum
and if you
>> are anywhere in the near field from this noise,
you’re
>> pretty much screwed.
>>> One trick that SOMETIMES helps: Take a
handheld
>> VHF radio, remove the antenna and stick a
paperclip into the
>> center conductor of the antenna jack. Hook
headphones
>> to the handheld radio. Now start the
aircraft and use
>> the radio as a “test wand” and run it around
the wiring
>> to try and find the source. This is not easy
and takes
>> some effort.
>>> Bottom line: Your noise is coming from
your P
>> leads and new tach. Good luck. Merry
Christmas.
>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>
>>>
>>> --- On Fri, 12/17/10, Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>> wrote:
>>>> From: Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>>> Subject: Re: RF interference
>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>> Date: Friday, December 17, 2010, 9:03 PM
>>>> --> Yak-List message
posted by:
>>>> Scott Poehlmann<scott-p(at)texas.net>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Mark,
>>>>
>>>> I knew that you would have a great, step
by step
>> method.
>>>> Went out to the hangar today: looks like
the
>> P-leads are
>>>> the
>>>> culprit--BOTH have the shielding detached
from
>> the
>>>> connector and about 1
>>>> cm of unshielded lead "hanging in the
breeze".
>> I'll spend
>>>> some time
>>>> tomorrow AM soldering the shielding to
the
>> connector (it
>>>> appears that
>>>> this has been done before and that the
solder
>> joints have
>>>> failed...),
>>>> and will advise if this doesn't fix the
problem.
>>>>
>>>> Now for the next question: any ideas where
to find
>> a cover
>>>> for the tach
>>>> generator drive? I am running a Horizon
digital
>> tach (which
>>>> takes its
>>>> data from the mag--in fact it is wired
into the
>> back of the
>>>> mag
>>>> switch...), and I have no tach generator,
just a
>> big open
>>>> fitting with a
>>>> drive (and seal) at the bottom... Threaded
on the
>> outside,
>>>> of course.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again, and to everyone else who
provided
>>>> information. This list
>>>> is a tremendous asset to the continued
operation
>> of these
>>>> airplanes.
>>>>
>>>> Scott
>>>>
>>>> On 12-17-2010 10:15, Yak Pilot wrote:
>>>>> --> Yak-List message
>> posted by: Yak
>>>> Pilot<yakplt(at)yahoo.com>
>>>>> Do the following:
>>>>>
>>>>> Remove the plug from the Tach Gen and
tie it
>> back. Run
>>>> the aircraft. Does the noise go
away?
>> Then it is
>>>> indeed your Tach Gen and it is most
likely
>> shielding at the
>>>> Tach Generator plug itself. Be
careful
>> taking this
>>>> plug apart as it is common for the
soldering on
>> these wires
>>>> to break.
>>>>> If the noise does not go away, fly
the
>> airplane.
>>>> Over the airport come to complete idle and
then
>> shut the
>>>> mags off. Both mags, turn them off.
>>>>> You're now a glider.
>>>>>
>>>>> Did the noise go away? If it
did, then
>> you have
>>>> a MAG noise problem. The mag noise
filters
>> will help,
>>>> but before you go to that effort, look at
the P
>> leak plugs
>>>> that go into the side of the mags.
It is
>> very common
>>>> for people to twist these plugs off during
some
>> kind of
>>>> maint. action and in the process twist the
shield
>> right off
>>>> the plug as well. If the P Lead is
>> unshielded you will
>>>> have one huge amount of noise.
>>>>> If the noise is still there even when
you
>> have
>>>> performed these steps (whcih is highly
unlikely)
>> then you've
>>>> got some other device radiating energy in
the
>>>> aircraft. Start turning everything
that you
>> can off to
>>>> try and identify it.
>>>>> Suggestions have been made to see if
it is
>> coming in
>>>> via the antenna or the power wiring.
I have
>> posted
>>>> these suggestions before, but it is
something you
>> do at the
>>>> end of troubleshooting and not the
>> beginning. It is
>>>> much easier to identify the noise source
and
>> eliminate it
>>>> where it is coming from. If you
can't
>> identify the
>>>> noise and you are lucky enough to have it
coming
>> in via the
>>>> power wires (again this is rare), a choke
on the
>> input power
>>>> wiring can help eliminate the noise.
This
>> can be as
>>>> simple as a snap on torroid, or an
expensive
>> (purchased)
>>>> filter, that is usually some sort of "Pi L
brute
>> force"
>>>> filter consisting of two caps and an
inductor.
>>>> Usually, snap on torroids are just as
effective
>> and much
>>>> cheaper. Again though, noise coming
in via
>> the power
>>>> wiring is rare. It usually is coming
in via
>> the
>>>> antenna, and that means you MUST eliminate
the
>> noise at it's
>>>> source.
>>>>> The tests described above will usually
nail
>> the
>>>> problem in short order.
>>>>> Mark Bitterlich
>>>>>
>>>>> p.s. The reason I recommend
shutting the
>> mags
>>>> off at idle in flight versus doing it on
the
>> ground is
>>>> because the engine keeps wind-milling even
with
>> the mags
>>>> off, and you can leave them off much
longer while
>> you are
>>>> listening for radio noise and seeing if it
goes
>> away.
>>>> Shutting the engine off with the mags and
the
>> engine
>>>> windmilling with it at idle will not hurt
>> anything, although
>>>> the engine will cool off really fast, so
when you
>> turn the
>>>> mags back on and the engine once again is
>> actually
>>>> "running", don't just cob the power to
100%.
>> Bring it
>>>> in slowly. Common sense applies.
>>>>> --- On Thu, 12/16/10, Roger Kemp
M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> From: Roger Kemp M.D.<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>>> Subject: RE: RF
interference
>>>>>> To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
>>>>>> Date: Thursday, December 16, 2010,
1:35
>> PM
>>>>>> --> Yak-List
message
>> posted by:
>>>>>> "Roger Kemp M.D."<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Check the shielding on your Tac
Generator.
>> That is
>>>> the most
>>>>>> likely source
>>>>>> for RPM related noise.
>>>>>> Doc
>>>>>>
>>>>>> --
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