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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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 Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:25 am Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?) to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les [quote][b]
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pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 11:59 am Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Unless you have something under the fairings to maintain/look at, I'd put them on permanently. I see no reason to add the labor and weight ...... yet.
Linn
On 12/26/2010 2:20 PM, Les Kearney wrote: [quote] Attaching Fairing
Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?) to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les [b]
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dmaib(at)mac.com
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 12:04 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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I used #6 screws on the bottom rudder fairing so that I would have access to the light and rudder trim wiring. Nutplates are mounted on a thin strip of aluminum on the inside of the fairing.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 26, 2010, at 2:20 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: |
Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?) to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les | Quote: |
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href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 1:03 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Les,
I just installed mine today. I went the pricey route. #4 Click bond nut
plates, attached with MS24693C4 SS MACHINE SCREW 440(3/8" length). I got
110 of the nut plates to attach all the fairings except for the HS front
tips, and to attach the baggage door hinge, to make all items removable
if/when desired. These little screws look very similar to the AN flush
rivets adjacent to them..same size head. The nut plates are the big
expense..screws are pennies. I bought them at the same time as the Click
Bond wing tip kit , which uses #6 nut plates(saves on shipping).
http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Kelly
On 12/26/2010 12:20 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
| Quote: |
Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab
etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?)
to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how
were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les
*
*
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 1:57 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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There is no need to remove any of the empennage fairings. Personally I would rivet them in per the instructions, then glass over the seam for a smooth transition....
Just one persons advice.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 26, 2010, at 3:56 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Les,
I just installed mine today. I went the pricey route. #4 Click bond nut plates, attached with MS24693C4 SS MACHINE SCREW 440(3/8" length). I got 110 of the nut plates to attach all the fairings except for the HS front tips, and to attach the baggage door hinge, to make all items removable if/when desired. These little screws look very similar to the AN flush rivets adjacent to them..same size head. The nut plates are the big expense..screws are pennies. I bought them at the same time as the Click Bond wing tip kit , which uses #6 nut plates(saves on shipping). http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Kelly
On 12/26/2010 12:20 PM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
>
> Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?) to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> *
>
> *
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 3:40 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Linn / Mike
I take your point about just attching per plans. On the other hand, I like thge idea of being able to remove / replace for inspections etc. As well, in the case of the rudder fairing, there will be wires to access however infrequently. I like David's idea - it is simple and inexpensive.
Cheers
Les
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: December-26-10 12:55 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Attaching Fairing
Unless you have something under the fairings to maintain/look at, I'd put them on permanently. I see no reason to add the labor and weight ..... yet.
Linn
On 12/26/2010 2:20 PM, Les Kearney wrote: [quote]
Merry Christmas to All & Happy New Year as well.
Tomorrow I will be fitting the various fairings on the rudder / stab etc. I was wondering if anyone has used small flat head screws (#6?) to attach these fairings rather than the CS4-4 pop rivets. If so, how were the nut plates attached inside the fairings?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Cheers
Les
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
[b]
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:25 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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That is a matter of opinion, not necessarily true for everyone. If either the elevators or rudder ever need re-balancing, like after any painting, those fairings will have to come off. If you later want a VOR antenna on top of the vertical stab, the fairing will need to come off. Or if you want to stick a GPS or ADS-B antenna up there, off comes the fairing. Good luck doing that after you have glassed over the rivets and don't know where they are to drill out. Not all of us are good enough to build the plane perfectly in every way, the first time. Things do change, needs change, over time.
Kelly
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)>
There is no need to remove any of the empennage fairings. Personally I would rivet them in per the instructions, then glass over the seam for a smooth transition....
Just one persons advice.
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#avg_ls_inline_popup{position: absolute;z-index: 9999;padding: 0px 0px;margin-left: 0px;margin-top: 0px;overflow: hidden;word-wrap: break-word;color: black;font-size: 10px;text-align: left;line-height: 130%;} [quote][b]
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Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:37 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Add to that, you are GUARANTEED to load/unload 2 people at the same time, and rock the plane back on its tail, and potentially damage the lower rudder fairing. I swore that I would NEVER do this, until on a trip to No, Cal this summer with 200 hrs on the plane, at a fuel stop, I was in a hurry to find a restroom, and sure enough......
Luckily, I never take my tie-down rings out, and that protected the fairing, but I know of others who have not been so lucky. The embarrassment was enough to 'remind' me for the next 200 hours.
Deems
On 12/26/2010 7:20 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: [quote]That is a matter of opinion, not necessarily true for everyone. If either the elevators or rudder ever need re-balancing, like after any painting, those fairings will have to come off. If you later want a VOR antenna on top of the vertical stab, the fairing will need to come off. Or if you want to stick a GPS or ADS-B antenna up there, off comes the fairing. Good luck doing that after you have glassed over the rivets and don't know where they are to drill out. Not all of us are good enough to build the plane perfectly in every way, the first time. Things do change, needs change, over time.
Kelly
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)>
There is no need to remove any of the empennage fairings. Personally I would rivet them in per the instructions, then glass over the seam for a smooth transition....
Just one persons advice.
|
#avg_ls_inline_popup{position: absolute;z-index: 9999;padding: 0px 0px;margin-left: 0px;margin-top: 0px;overflow: hidden;word-wrap: break-word;color: black;font-size: 10px;text-align: left;line-height: 130%;} --
Deems Davis[b]
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dmaib@me.com
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:40 pm Post subject: Re: Attaching Fairing |
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I did not learn about Click Bond products until I had already installed the nutplates on the lower rudder fairing. If I was doing it again, I would definitely use Click Bond and would probably use them on all of the tip fairings just for things like repainting and antennas as mentioned by Kelly. I am a big fan of Click Bond products, even though they are a bit pricey. I have used them with great success in areas where installing a riveted nutplate would be difficult if not impossible. Careful preparation of the surface to be bonded is imperative.
| | - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL |
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2010 7:14 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to propagate cracks. I put all of 10 min prep on the parts beyond what the plans call for, mostly sanding and chemical wipe to ensure surface the adhesive would bond to. Less than 30 min to install 100 nutplates, less than 1 hour total with prep, install and clean up. Wait 24 hours to cure, then pull the silicone rubber fixtures and install parts. I couldn't have riveted the nut plates in double the time, nut counting drilling and deburring.
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 7:40 PM, dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com) <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)" <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)>
I did not learn about Click Bond products until I had already installed the nutplates on the lower rudder fairing. If I was doing it again, I would definitely use Click Bond and would probably use them on all of the tip fairings just for things like repainting and antennas as mentioned by Kelly. I am a big fan of Click Bond products, even though they are a bit pricey. I have used them with great success in areas where installing a riveted nutplate would be difficult if not impossible. Careful preparation of the surface to be bonded is imperative.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324620#324620
===========
="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
le, List Admin.
===========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===========
http://forums.matronics.com
===========
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Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
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jcumins(at)jcis.net
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2010 9:53 am Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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I installed #6 nut plates on the bottom fairing and the top fairing. I have mounted a LED Beacon on the top fairing panel and will possibly mount a nav antenna up there also. The nut plates were very easy to install and they allow access to all the wiring and light assemblies that will need to be maintained over the years.
John Cumins
40864 Emp complete wings primeing ribs and spar.
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2010 7:10 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Attaching Fairing
The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to propagate cracks. I put all of 10 min prep on the parts beyond what the plans call for, mostly sanding and chemical wipe to ensure surface the adhesive would bond to. Less than 30 min to install 100 nutplates, less than 1 hour total with prep, install and clean up. Wait 24 hours to cure, then pull the silicone rubber fixtures and install parts. I couldn't have riveted the nut plates in double the time, nut counting drilling and deburring.
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 7:40 PM, dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com) <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)" <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)>
I did not learn about Click Bond products until I had already installed the nutplates on the lower rudder fairing. If I was doing it again, I would definitely use Click Bond and would probably use them on all of the tip fairings just for things like repainting and antennas as mentioned by Kelly. I am a big fan of Click Bond products, even though they are a bit pricey. I have used them with great success in areas where installing a riveted nutplate would be difficult if not impossible. Careful preparation of the surface to be bonded is imperative.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=324620#324620
===========
="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
le, List Admin.
===========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===========
http://forums.matronics.com
===========
01234567890123456
[quote][b]
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chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:17 am Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These things made of gold or what?
$2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That’s $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I’ve got the time to do it Van’s way…and that’s why I picked two Van’s products --- good airplane and a better value.
Chuck
RV9A completed
RV10 completed
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The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to propagate cracks. I put all of 10 min prep on the parts beyond what the plans call for, mostly sanding and chemical wipe to ensure surface the adhesive would bond to. Less than 30 min to install 100 nutplates, less than 1 hour total with prep, install and clean up. Wait 24 hours to cure, then pull the silicone rubber fixtures and install parts. I couldn't have riveted the nut plates in double the time, nut counting drilling and deburring.
On Sun, Dec 26, 2010 at 7:40 PM, dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com) <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)> wrote:
--> RV10-List message posted by: "dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)" <dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)>
I did not learn about Click Bond products until I had already installed the nutplates on the lower rudder fairing. If I was doing it again, I would definitely use Click Bond and would probably use them on all of the tip fairings just for things like repainting and antennas as mentioned by Kelly. I am a big fan of Click Bond products, even though they are a bit pricey.
[quote][b]
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:24 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you
like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out
the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look
of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to repair or
replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop
rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with
homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can "improve"
all you want. Just takes time and money.
On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
| Quote: |
Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These
things made of gold or what?
$2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That’s $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut
plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more
valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I’ve got the time to
do it Van’s way…and that’s why I picked two Van’s products --- good
airplane and a better value.
Chuck
RV9A completed
RV10 completed
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No
nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to
propagate cracks. *
*
*===========
*
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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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chuck(at)chuckdirect.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:17 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill out one
rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff I've
seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money, have at
it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you build it
per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of talent,
you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to spend a
lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for me.
--
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dmaib(at)mac.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:24 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Well, I haven't had to drill out a rivet to remove a fairing either.
But, if one ever needs to remove a tip fairing on a "built to plans"
RV, he/she will be drilling out some pop rivets. But, that's not the
point. We get to build these airplanes the way we want to build them.
The snarky "I don't know how you build airplanes" type of comment is
pretty much junior high stuff, IMHO. I get to choose where I want to
spend money on my airplane and that's part of the beauty of it. I've
done some things that I think improved the product, and I have done a
few that did not. That's called experimental. I have just a few Click
Bond nutplates on my airplane. If I was doing it again, I would have
more. I think they are a superior fastener in some situations.
$.02 worth and nomex flame suit donned.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 28, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
[quote]
<chuck(at)chuckdirect.com>
I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill
out one
rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff
I've
seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money,
have at
it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you
build it
per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of
talent,
you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to
spend a
lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for
me.
--
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rv10builder(at)verizon.ne
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 6:05 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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I have removed a fairing after pop riveting it , it was a pain to drill out
the rivets but I made the correction and pop riveted the fairing back on. If
I need to do it again, I will, it wasn't a big deal. I agree with spend your
money wherever you want, to some, the kit is perfect the way it is, to
others there are some mandatory aftermarkets parts that need to be used as
replacements.
The reason I don't use click bond or any other great part is because I am
quite ignorant of options until I determine an option is needed and I
research it, only than to find out that I wished I knew about it. The click
bond feedback is great for those who want that option, no one said we "had"
to get it for the fairing, just that it's an option.
Let's stick to RV-10 stuff and working together, I have a hard enough time
keeping up with my daughter's Kindergarden to be able to handle any Jr High
stuff on this list.
I appreciate the click bond feedback BTW, I may be able to use it for
something else.
P
--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Maib" <dmaib(at)mac.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 5:21 PM
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Attaching Fairing
[quote]
Well, I haven't had to drill out a rivet to remove a fairing either. But,
if one ever needs to remove a tip fairing on a "built to plans" RV,
he/she will be drilling out some pop rivets. But, that's not the point.
We get to build these airplanes the way we want to build them. The snarky
"I don't know how you build airplanes" type of comment is pretty much
junior high stuff, IMHO. I get to choose where I want to spend money on
my airplane and that's part of the beauty of it. I've done some things
that I think improved the product, and I have done a few that did not.
That's called experimental. I have just a few Click Bond nutplates on my
airplane. If I was doing it again, I would have more. I think they are a
superior fastener in some situations.
$.02 worth and nomex flame suit donned.
David Maib
40559
Flying
On Dec 28, 2010, at 7:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
>
> I don't know how you build airplanes, but I haven't had to drill out one
> rivet to "remove a fairing". And I don't have many "pop rivets" in my
> airplanes either. And I'll put my airplane up to most of the stuff I've
> seen built too. As I said, If you want to spend the extra money, have
> at
> it. I can tell you from building two Van's airplanes that if you build
> it
> per the plans and supplied kit parts and exercise some semblance of
> talent,
> you'll end up with an airplane to be proud of and you don't have to
> spend a
> lot of extra money on "labor savors". It was a "labor" of love for me.
>
> --
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 6:06 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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So I disagree. I have a RV-4 with riveted on empennage fairings. It's been flying for over 8 years and almost 400 hours and there are no cracks. You just need to fill the gap and lay a layer or 2 of light fiberglass over the seam..... Done PROPERLY, it looks much better than any screws will ever look. You get a nice smooth seamless transition. I have never had to remove the fairings and don't see a need to ever remove them.
Paint your plane, take off the fairings a couple of times and see what your paint looks like around the screws... A lot worse than you'll probably expect.
Build it the way you want, but don't say the 'Vans way' doesn't work. Nothing works if not done properly.
-Mike
RV-4 flying
RV-7 flying
RV-10 flying
RV-10 Finish work
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 28, 2010, at 3:21 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:
| Quote: |
Try http://www.theflightshop.com/Cataspx65.html
Most around $2.00-2.25 each. 100 will do all of the tip fairings. If you like taking the time to rivet them all in place, and get to drill out the rivets when you need to remove a fairing, and tolerate the ugly look of the pop rivets.......your choice. Not to mention getting to repair or replace the fairing when the fiberglass starts cracking under the pop rivet tension and vibration. That is why we get to make choices with homebuilt. You can do Vans bare bones and be happy, or you can "improve" all you want. Just takes time and money.
On 12/28/2010 12:13 PM, Chuck Weyant wrote:
>
> Pricey? http://www.electricalhub.com/click-bond-nutplates-2 These things made of gold or what?
>
> $2.74 to $8.84 Each!!! That’s $274 to $884.00 for a lousy hundred nut plates! I know some you can afford them, and your time may be more valuable so as to make them a good value, but me? I’ve got the time to do it Van’s way…and that’s why I picked two Van’s products --- good airplane and a better value.
>
> Chuck
>
> RV9A completed
>
> RV10 completed
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> The biggest advantage of Click Bond products is the time savings. No nutplate holes to drill and deburr. No extra holes in fiberglass to propagate cracks. *
> *
>
> *===========
> *
|
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:18 pm Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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I for one, was not trying to start any arguments. Homebuilt lets us all build the way we want to do it. Some of us have been doing aircraft maintenance for the past 35 yrs and choose to spend a few bucks to make future maintenance easier. Some like to make the finish on the RV10 look like a fiberglass airplane, some don't. Some follow the plans to the letter, some don't. There isn't one right way. I have some glassed in pop rivets in need of replacement right now, as vibration and stress have worn the pop rivet hole to the point it no longer holds. No, it isn't on an RV. Take a close look at the glass on your wing tips around the nut plates. Odds are strong there will be cracks in the glass there in the next few years. Vans emphasises minimizing cost of materials. Nothing wrong with that. Does leave room for improvement. Nobody knows what antennas we will have to have for ADS-B and whatever other electronics the FAA foists on us in the next ten years either. I'd rather have places to hide those gizmos without needing to drill out a bunch of rivets. Your choice is just that, and I'm certain it makes sense for you and that is wonderful. Where would we be without the folks that built before us and made a lot of different choices, leaving many forks in the road. Some were even kind enough to post their efforts on the web, and others designed some superior products and offered them to those that liked them. Some build pure stock per plans, and that is great too. But the real question is what primer did you use. 
Kelly
A&P/IA
EAA Tech Counselor
On Tue, Dec 28, 2010 at 7:04 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)>
So I disagree. I have a RV-4 with riveted on empennage fairings. It's been flying for over 8 years and almost 400 hours and there are no cracks. You just need to fill the gap and lay a layer or 2 of light fiberglass over the seam..... Done PROPERLY, it looks much better than any screws will ever look. You get a nice smooth seamless transition. I have never had to remove the fairings and don't see a need to ever remove them.
Paint your plane, take off the fairings a couple of times and see what your paint looks like around the screws... A lot worse than you'll probably expect.
Build it the way you want, but don't say the 'Vans way' doesn't work. Nothing works if not done properly.
-Mike
RV-4 flying
RV-7 flying
RV-10 flying
RV-10 Finish work
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 28, 2010, at 3:21 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com (kellym(at)aviating.com)> wrote:
|
#avg_ls_inline_popup{position: absolute;z-index: 9999;padding: 0px 0px;margin-left: 0px;margin-top: 0px;overflow: hidden;word-wrap: break-word;color: black;font-size: 10px;text-align: left;line-height: 130%;} [quote][b]
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Kelly McMullen
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AirMike
Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada
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| Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 4:02 am Post subject: Attaching Fairing |
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Ditto - as with David Maib , I use #6 nutplates to attach the lower rudder fairing. It makes for easy wire maintenance on the light back there. Also, think about the top of the vertical stabilizer if you want a cat whisker VOR antenna in that area !
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See you OSH '18
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