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egp8111
Joined: 25 Mar 2010
Posts: 49
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 Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 7:18 am Post subject: new old topic windshield fitting |
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I'm replacing the windshield on a KF III. The new material supplied by Kitfox is considerably thicker than the orginal windshield. It has all fit well except the front part where the windshield comes over the front spar carry thru and then has to bend back to attach to the door post. It is requiring more force than I'm comfortable with using. Is anyone familiar with the Kitfox supplied windshield material ? Can I use a heat gun to soften things up some ? Does the protective material need to be removed before you heat it up.
good news is the 912 is installed, the panel is in and I'm ready to make engine noise as soon as I get this windshield installed!
thanks,
EG
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kirkhull(at)kc.rr.com
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:12 am Post subject: new old topic windshield fitting |
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Yes a heat gun makes it much easier and you do have to remove the film.
Also be sure that the edges are smooth or it could crack.
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dholly
Joined: 19 Dec 2006
Posts: 40
Location: Upstate NY
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| Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 3:20 pm Post subject: Re: new old topic windshield fitting |
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EG-
I replaced my Model III windshield/skylight (.060) this year. The Lexan polycarbonate manufacturer FAQ's says controlled and uniform heating of the entire polycarbonate sheet is a critical factor for hot bending, as slow heating rates will balance out hot spots and allow the sheet edges to reach the required forming temperature. What I did...
After attaching to the rear carry-thru and butt ribs, I removed the protective film and hooked a 1000w halogen work light to the headrack inside near the front bend area. The heat trapped under the sheet warms the horizontal bend area plus a large portion of the sheet including the spar cutout sections. I also placed my twin 500w halogen stand outside to shine on and warm the vertical post edge and spar cutouts on the windscreen before starting on the sharper bends. After everything was warmed sufficiently it bent and went together fairly easily. Once riveted in place, I used a heat gun (low setting only!) on the still warm windscreen to provide some additional stress relief around the spar cutout curves as added insurance against future crazing. I also heated and bent up the rear corners of the skylight slightly to prevent interference with the folded wings.
Worked like a charm for me and based on the direct from mfg info I think this process has merit. Blasting the acute, compound curves with high localized heat might make the bending process easier than cold forming but, unless you heat the entire sheet (or as much as possible around the target work area), IMHO you have not done everything you can do to help prevent future crazing per mfg instructions.
Good luck, sounds like you're getting close!
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| Description: |
| After: New windscreen and skylight installed. |
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64.15 KB |
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4633 Time(s) |
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| Description: |
| Before: Badly crazed windscreen in need of replacement. |
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69.35 KB |
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4633 Time(s) |
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_________________
-Kitfox III 582 Blue/C Grove Spring / Aerocet 1100 Amphibs
-Airdale Avid+ (project) TD / W.I.B. Gear |
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PMorel
Joined: 09 Jul 2007
Posts: 62
Location: Locust Grove, GA USA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 6:10 am Post subject: Re: new old topic windshield fitting |
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I also used heat and cargo tie down strap to help contour the windshield during my build.
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4614 Time(s) |
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