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Compressor issue

 
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jan.mevis(at)informavia.b
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:35 am    Post subject: Compressor issue Reply with quote

What happens is that the shear pin of the compressor breaks. I’ve seen this a couple of times.
Could also be the pipe from the compressor to the water separator: they usually crack at one of the ends. I’d run the engine and use soapy water for that. By moving the prop manually you won’t build up a lot of pressure. The compressor is a two-stages pump.

BR,

Jan





From: owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-m14pengines-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Didier Blouzard
Sent: dinsdag 18 januari 2011 9:05
To: m14pengines-list(at)matronics.com; Dominique Lucas
Subject: Compressor issue


Hi Yak friends,

My friend have a problem with the air in his 52. His air bottle does not refill.
We tested yesterday part of the system and here are some symptoms.
First the air bottle when closed does not leak.
When opened no leak heard also and all is working properly. Gear brakes flaps.
Only visible symptom is that the pressure doesn't rise. After landing when opening the water collector, no air is coming out.

We tryed all the following by turning the prop by hands :

I put my hand on the compressor filter and can feel the air going in.
So we unmounted the pipe coming from the compressor to the water collector in order to see if air is coming out. Putting my thumb on the pipe with soap water, I barely could feel anything coming out...
I blowed into the water collector and air is passing thrue.

Any hints regarding these symptoms please guys???

--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com (didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com)
0624243672
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 4:42 am    Post subject: Compressor issue Reply with quote

Hi Didier,
There are 2 things that will cause the symptom you have defined.
- The compressor has a coupling between it and the
accessory case. This coupling has 3 shear pins which if sheared, stops
the compressor from functioning when the engine is in operation.
Unfortunately, to gain access to the shear coupling the compressor has
to be removed from the accessory case. There are six 11 mm nuts around
the base of the compressor where it mounts to the accessory case. In
the Russian tool box is a long T-handle tool with a curve toward the end
with an 11 mm box end wrench. Its sole purpose in life is to remove the
nuts on the compressor. Most likely you will be making a few tools to
reinstall the nuts. I am certain you will use a lot of foul language
removing and reinstalling the nuts because they are quite difficult to
get to. Remove everything in front of the compressor, including the
exhaust section for ease of access to the base of the compressor.

- Secondly, (and the first thing I would try) remove the output check
valve from the compressor. This is the valve where the line coming from
the water separator bottle that has the banjo fitting on the end,
attaches to the compressor. The nut size I believe is 22 mm. When you
remove the output check valve, look at the flat surface. In the center
you will see a small circle about the size of a pencil eraser. Push the
circle down. If it doesn't move, the output check valve in carboned up.
Disassemble the sections of the output check valve and clean. The
little circle I mentioned is actually a little "valve" that is held in
place by a small spring which is inside the output check valve. You
will need a new set of crush washers when you reassemble.

Once you remove the output check valve, put your thumb or finger on the
hole and have someone rotate the prop. See if you feel output pressure
from the compressor. If not, go back to removing the compressor to
replace the shear coupling.
Hope this helps.
Dennis

A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (cell)
Skype: Yakguy1
www.yak-52.com

On 1/18/2011 2:04 AM, Didier Blouzard wrote:
Quote:
Hi Yak friends,

My friend have a problem with the air in his 52. His air bottle does not
refill.
We tested yesterday part of the system and here are some symptoms.
First the air bottle when closed does not leak.
When opened no leak heard also and all is working properly. Gear brakes
flaps.
Only visible symptom is that the pressure doesn't rise. After landing
when opening the water collector, no air is coming out.

We tryed all the following by turning the prop by hands :

I put my hand on the compressor filter and can feel the air going in.
So we unmounted the pipe coming from the compressor to the water
collector in order to see if air is coming out. Putting my thumb on the
pipe with soap water, I barely could feel anything coming out...
I blowed into the water collector and air is passing thrue.
Any hints regarding these symptoms please guys???

--
Didier BLOUZARD
didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com <mailto:didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com>
0624243672

*
*


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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest





PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:36 am    Post subject: Compressor issue Reply with quote

Everyone has a different way of doing things, my suggestion is based on
having the right tools in hand and .... being basically lazy. Having
had a lot of leaks to deal with on Russian aircraft, I developed this
procedure. Admittedly, without the right tools and fittings, it is not
easy to do. I obtained the tools, I made the fittings. They have been
a life-saver over time.

My suggestion is to obtain a regulated air source that can input 700 PSI
or so. This can be difficult, but I happen to have one. Next, take the
line off the snot valve that feeds back to the engine compressor.
Connect your air source to that line. Pressurize that line. Yes, you
are putting the air in "backwards" so to speak. Listen for leaks. As
has already been mentioned, this line fails....a LOT. Also, it is very
common for leaks to occur at the check valve and banjo fitting area
located at the compressor.

Then.... hook your pressure line to the snot valve, and once again
pressurize the system. Listen for leaks. Soapy water, etc.

You can do all this in a hangar with the with the engine shut off.

If all this works without any leaks, move to step number 2, which is to
do exactly what Dennis said to check the compressor itself.

Good luck. My best guess is that you have something wrong with a line
or fitting between the compressor and the snot valve. A common fault.

Mark
--


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tigeryak18t



Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

PostPosted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:22 pm    Post subject: Compressor issue Reply with quote

Dennis,

As always your advice is very precious, thanks so much for this.I will proceed step by step as you write and hope to find where this problem come from. By chance I have a spare shear pin and the specific tool for removing the compressor. So if it is necessary, I will use all the bad words I know but hopefully be successful.
I'll let you know.

Thanks very much to all of you for your kind answers and particularly to Jan for his advices and his time. He is really a precious man skilled generous and patient. We are lucky to have such persons on this side of the world in addition to Dennis.

Didier Blouzard
+33(0)6 2424 3672

Le 18 janv. 2011 à 13:39, "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net> a écrit :

Quote:


Hi Didier,
There are 2 things that will cause the symptom you have defined.
- The compressor has a coupling between it and the
accessory case. This coupling has 3 shear pins which if sheared, stops the compressor from functioning when the engine is in operation. Unfortunately, to gain access to the shear coupling the compressor has to be removed from the accessory case. There are six 11 mm nuts around the base of the compressor where it mounts to the accessory case. In the Russian tool box is a long T-handle tool with a curve toward the end with an 11 mm box end wrench. Its sole purpose in life is to remove the nuts on the compressor. Most likely you will be making a few tools to reinstall the nuts. I am certain you will use a lot of foul language removing and reinstalling the nuts because they are quite difficult to get to. Remove everything in front of the compressor, including the exhaust section for ease of access to the base of the compressor.

- Secondly, (and the first thing I would try) remove the output check valve from the compressor. This is the valve where the line coming from the water separator bottle that has the banjo fitting on the end, attaches to the compressor. The nut size I believe is 22 mm. When you remove the output check valve, look at the flat surface. In the center you will see a small circle about the size of a pencil eraser. Push the circle down. If it doesn't move, the output check valve in carboned up. Disassemble the sections of the output check valve and clean. The little circle I mentioned is actually a little "valve" that is held in place by a small spring which is inside the output check valve. You will need a new set of crush washers when you reassemble.

Once you remove the output check valve, put your thumb or finger on the hole and have someone rotate the prop. See if you feel output pressure from the compressor. If not, go back to removing the compressor to replace the shear coupling.
Hope this helps.
Dennis

A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (cell)
Skype: Yakguy1
www.yak-52.com

On 1/18/2011 2:04 AM, Didier Blouzard wrote:
> Hi Yak friends,
>
> My friend have a problem with the air in his 52. His air bottle does not
> refill.
> We tested yesterday part of the system and here are some symptoms.
> First the air bottle when closed does not leak.
> When opened no leak heard also and all is working properly. Gear brakes
> flaps.
> Only visible symptom is that the pressure doesn't rise. After landing
> when opening the water collector, no air is coming out.
>
> We tryed all the following by turning the prop by hands :
>
> I put my hand on the compressor filter and can feel the air going in.
> So we unmounted the pipe coming from the compressor to the water
> collector in order to see if air is coming out. Putting my thumb on the
> pipe with soap water, I barely could feel anything coming out...
> I blowed into the water collector and air is passing thrue.
>
>
> Any hints regarding these symptoms please guys???
>
> --
> Didier BLOUZARD
> didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com <mailto:didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com>
> 0624243672
>
> *
>
>
> *






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HBaker



Joined: 16 Nov 2008
Posts: 119

PostPosted: Sun Apr 10, 2011 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Compressor issue Reply with quote

How long does it take the compressor to refill the tank , I only had it running once for about an hour, and it didn't seem to refill.
Henry


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Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:45 am    Post subject: Compressor issue Reply with quote

Of course it depends on the size of the tank. Assuming the tank size is
about the same as the 52's or CJ6's, I believe it usually takes about
20-30 minutes to fill it to 50-55 ATM's if it is empty.

If the compressor is not filling the tank at all, check the banjo
fitting security on the output check valve of the compressor. The crush
washers on the output check valve are critical to making a good seal
around the banjo fitting and the output check valve itself.

If you've determined there are no leaks around the output check valve,
remove a line downstream from the output check valve and attach a latex
or Nitrile glove to the line and run the engine. Obviously the glove
should inflate quickly. If it doesn't, then the problem could be either
the shear coupling between the compressor and accessory case, the
compressor itself OR the little "piston" inside the output check valve
is carbon'd up so badly that it won't open during the compressor operation.
Dennis

On 4/10/2011 4:06 PM, HBaker wrote:
Quote:


How long does it take the compressor to refill the tank , I only had it running once for about an hour, and it didn't seem to refill.
Henry

--------
Currently building a Murphy Moose - any help would be appreciated.


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