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Removing tank filler during rebuild

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mountain4don

Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 29

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 6:46 pm Post subject: Removing tank filler during rebuild

How is everyone removing the screw-in tank fillers on the 601XL rebuild?  I got to removing the nose skin on my wing and came to removing the screw in tank filler under the filler cap.  The threads are sealed with the sealer Zenith recommended.  What kind of tool is everybody using?  Are you using heat or anything?  A chemical to cut the sealer?

 

 Thanks for the help,  Don Mountain

         [quote][b]

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Zenith 601XL, tail done, working on wings

austria

Joined: 09 Feb 2007
Posts: 7

Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

Hi Don,

I used a modified bucking bar and a lot of power.



austria

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mountain4don

Joined: 18 Jan 2006
Posts: 29

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 7:08 am Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

Its below freezing here and I was wondering if it would be better to try to warm up the tank filler before trying it.  What temperature was it when you removed yours?  Did you notice any buckling or bending of the tank or skin during the removal?

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Zenith 601XL, tail done, working on wings

PatrickW

Joined: 27 Oct 2006
Posts: 380
Location: Fort Worth, Texas

Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2011 9:18 am Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

I was able to get both of mine out with a piece of plywood that I wrapped in duct tape (to keep splinters from falling into the tank).  It was the same tool I made to screw the filler in, in the first place.



Here's a picture:  http://picasaweb.google.com/Patrick.Hoyt/601XLFuelTankFillerFix?authkey=Gv1sRgCLaSv_q6zKafRg#5151627062448202034



As I recall, it was plywood from one of the shipping crates.  Was probably 70 degrees in my shop at that time.  I used a pair of vise-grips for leverage and didn't have any trouble.



- Pat

Tim Juhl

Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

Posted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

I carved a piece of Oak that I had lying around to conform as closely as possible to the shape of the slots in the filler.  I then used a couple of C clamps to attach a two foot piece of 2 x 4 to the top so it was in the shape of a T.  After that the trick is breaking the threads free.   



I don't know what "Zenith recommends" but I used a teflon paste as a sealer and thread lube - I had experienced galling in my first go with filler necks and destroyed one in the process.  



I don't know if heat would help or not.  You might try a careful application using a heat gun but I'd give it a shot without heating it first.  



Good luck!

Tim

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Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Almost done! It'll fly in spring!

Tim Juhl

Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:54 pm Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

Boy!  Did I speak too soon.   I finished the right wing and hauled the left into my shop to begin the modification process yesterday.  I used my trusty piece of shaped oak to remove the fuel filler neck but could only get it to budge a little.  I tried everything I could think of to get it out with no avail.  All I succeeded in doing was breaking my tool and practicing some words I haven't used in awhile.  In the end, I used a hacksaw blade and cut it out (see pix).  Fortunately the threads in the fuel tank are salvageable so I asked Zenith to send me the "Big Tap" when they sent me a new filler neck.



The other tank came apart without any trouble so I have no clue as to what caused the problem with this one.  Those darn aluminum to aluminum threads are a real pain.  I hope I never have to open the leading edge again!



Tim

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The filler neck after surgical removal with a hacksaw blade and vise-grips

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_________________
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Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A
Almost done! It'll fly in spring!

psm(at)att.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:15 pm Post subject: Removing tank filler during rebuild

Hi Tim,



I didn't have to remove the neck from my fuel tanks.  I screwed them 

down and mounted the whole assembly under the skin.  It worked out just 

fine.



Aluminum is lousy material to thread and use threaded.  In the case of 

steel threads in aluminum engine heads you need to use anti-seize 

compound to make the thread operation work.  Rotax calls for a different 

kind of goup, but the general idea is the same.



I've been working on the spar carry-through.  I decided to learn how to 

do solid riveting.  It turns out it is child's play.  My first 5/32 

rivet set perfectly in a 2/4 aluminum bar and was just as nasty to 

remove as the ones from the factory.  I didn't have the right "Set" so I 

ordered it from Spruce along with a few different sized rivets.



I decided to go this route because of the new row of rivets on top of 

the carry through.  I felt bolts would be a problem there for a couple 

of reasons.  The would be impossible to inspect and/or cause problems 

for legs resting on the carry-through.



My heavy metal bars arrived today via UPS and I already have one of the 

4 cut and loosely attached to the new assembly.  So far it is just pilot 

holes, but a little more work and it will be proper sized holes for 

riveting.



Have fun,



Paul



On 2/8/2011 4:54 PM, Tim Juhl wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Boy!  Did I speak too soon.   I finished the right wing and hauled the left into my shop to begin the modification process yesterday.  I used my trusty piece of shaped oak to remove the fuel filler neck but could only get it to budge a little.  I tried everything I could think of to get it out with no avail.  All I succeeded in doing was breaking my tool and practicing some words I haven't used in awhile.  In the end, I used a hacksaw blade and cut it out (see pix).  Fortunately the threads in the fuel tank are salvageable so I asked Zenith to send me the "Big Tap" when the sent me a new filler neck.



 The other tank came apart without any trouble so I have no clue as to what caused the problem with this one.  Those darn aluminum to aluminum threads are a real pain.  I hope I never have to open the leading edge again!



 Tim



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 Champ L16A flying

 Zodiac XL - Jabiru 3300A

 Tearing wings apart for modification





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ablebob

Joined: 30 Oct 2007
Posts: 11
Location: newfoundland

Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 4:46 am Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

This might not be the root cause of the problems with removing the filler necks but it might help. 



While building my own 701 tanks I decided to try and weld the filler neck directly to the aluminum tank. I thought they were aluminum but when the torch burnt the cladding off the neck I found out the truth. 



The neck part was made of steel with a coating resembling aluminum!



Knowing you are dealing with steel and not an aluminum tube can change how you attack the problem. A magnet will quickly determine if you have the steel neck with aluminum flange. 

 

The way I removed the neck was to put the end of a piece of hardwood (flooring) cut to fit snugly against the inside of the neck. Then using a piece of leather to protect the neck used a pipe wrench to grab where the wood would prevent the tube from collapsing. Heat the flange to expand it helps.

ding(at)tbscc.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 09, 2011 5:57 pm Post subject: Removing tank filler during rebuild

I used a product called "Bakerseal" from Aircraft Spruce on the 

filler threads, and have had no problem. It has anti-siezure properties, 

which is essential to avoid galling on aluminum to aluminum threads. It's 

very similar to ordinary teflon pipe thread sealant, with PTFE, but I don't 

know if the pipe thread sealant has the same anti-sieze properties. I flew 

70 hours with this before disassembly, and the sealant was fully intact and 

the fillers threaded out easily. It doesn't set up, so I used silicone to 

glue the flange against the outer skin to keep the filler clocked correctly.

                                                                             

                    Lynn Dingfelder   Corry, PA     601XL / Corvair

Tim Juhl

Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 488
Location: "Thumb" of Michigan

Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: Removing tank filler during rebuild

Ablebob - I checked the threads in the tank.  They are not steel - appears that the problem is still aluminum / aluminum galling.



Tim

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