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pdelano(at)telus.net
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 Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 6:38 pm Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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I’m anxious to rivet my rudder skeleton together, is there a good way to do this at home without any exotic bits or tools. If not, I’ll send them to Zenith.
Also, is Zinc-Chromate still the rust inhibitor of choice.
Finally, I do not want to wear Joyce out at Zenith, so I’ll ask the question here. I was originally going to build from plans but due to time contraints realize a kit is the only way to go.
Where on the Zenith site or Builders site do I find where to buy the updated construction manual CD. Joyce tells me its there but I have not been able to find it.
With the changes that have been made to the kit since I bought my plans I’ve found that although I avoided any mistakes in putting the rudder skeleton together
there was the potential to do something wrong given the predrilling
in the new kit parts.
[quote][b]
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Tommy Walker
Joined: 12 Jan 2006
Posts: 442
Location: Anniston, AL 36207
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| Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 4:41 am Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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People do it at home using a dremel tool. You may have to heat the heads to soften them first. The aluminum rivets don't need the heat treated heads anyway.
Here's the link to the builders site where the 701 updates are: http://www.zenithair.com/bldr/bldr.htm#701
[url=http://www.zenithair.com/bldr/bldr.htm#701][/url]I think you can update your plans and get the CD from Joyce by snail mail.
We used the Zenith supplied Cortec rust inhibitor. Water based, and supplied by Zenith.
Good luck,
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
On Sat, Apr 30, 2011 at 11:16 AM, Perry Delano <pdelano(at)telus.net (pdelano(at)telus.net)> wrote:
[quote]
I’m anxious to rivet my rudder skeleton together, is there a good way to do this at home without any exotic bits or tools. If not, I’ll send them to Zenith.
Also, is Zinc-Chromate still the rust inhibitor of choice.
Finally, I do not want to wear Joyce out at Zenith, so I’ll ask the question here. I was originally going to build from plans but due to time contraints realize a kit is the only way to go.
Where on the Zenith site or Builders site do I find where to buy the updated construction manual CD. Joyce tells me its there but I have not been able to find it.
With the changes that have been made to the kit since I bought my plans I’ve found that although I avoided any mistakes in putting the rudder skeleton together
there was the potential to do something wrong given the predrilling
in the new kit parts.
| Quote: |
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[b]
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Tommy Walker
N25A - Anniston, AL |
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bobkat
Joined: 07 Sep 2008
Posts: 143
Location: Bismarck, ND
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| Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 5:43 am Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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I used the white Cortec for a while but it didn’t seem to stick very well. Now as I’m painting the plane and cleaning it prior to the paint, areas that have that stuff on are a bit rough. Then I found it comes off readily with alcohol and any cleaning solution. So I wasn’t impressed with it too much. I suppose between joints where its not exposed to the elements it is safe, but I sure wouldn’t use it where it might be exposed to air or anything. I also tried some stuff called “self etching primer” from the local body shop supplier place. I wasn’t impressed that it stuck very well either and easily removed a big area that I had previously sprayed.
So I’d sure be leery of using either of those two products anywhere that you would ultimately paint over. Both come off so easily that paint over top of it I would worry about it ultimately flaking off.
What doesn’t seem to come off and what I found to be best is the zinc chromate primer. I actually tried my best to get it off an area which I was planning on painting, but couldn’t get it off, and whats best is that it didn’t show through the subsequent primer and paint, like the cortec stuff did, before I figured out that it had to come off or live with it.
So I guess I went full circle with the old standby zinc chromate stuff that I’d used liberally on a couple of previous aircraft builds, mainly on steel tube and fabric parts rather than aluminum. Sticks well and almost impossible to remove and at least with the paint method I’m using (Stewart systems) it doesn’t show on areas that are exposed to the surface.
I do a lot of other metal work, fabricating stuff for friends mainly steel, and used the self etching stuff previously but now have gone back to zinc chromate for any project that I want to last. Its old technology maybe, but it does seem to stick and last!
From: Tommy Walker (twalker(at)cableone.net)
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 7:38 AM
To: zenith701801-list(at)matronics.com (zenith701801-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Machining rivet gun heads
People do it at home using a dremel tool. You may have to heat the heads to soften them first. The aluminum rivets don't need the heat treated heads anyway.
Here's the link to the builders site where the 701 updates are: http://www.zenithair.com/bldr/bldr.htm#701
I think you can update your plans and get the CD from Joyce by snail mail.
We used the Zenith supplied Cortec rust inhibitor. Water based, and supplied by Zenith.
Good luck,
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
On Sat, Apr 30, 2011 at 11:16 AM, Perry Delano <pdelano(at)telus.net (pdelano(at)telus.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
I’m anxious to rivet my rudder skeleton together, is there a good way to do this at home without any exotic bits or tools. If not, I’ll send them to Zenith.
Also, is Zinc-Chromate still the rust inhibitor of choice.
Finally, I do not want to wear Joyce out at Zenith, so I’ll ask the question here. I was originally going to build from plans but due to time contraints realize a kit is the only way to go.
Where on the Zenith site or Builders site do I find where to buy the updated construction manual CD. Joyce tells me its there but I have not been able to find it.
With the changes that have been made to the kit since I bought my plans I’ve found that although I avoided any mistakes in putting the rudder skeleton together
there was the potential to do something wrong given the predrilling
in the new kit parts.
| Quote: |
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
[quote]
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
[b]
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Tommy Walker
Joined: 12 Jan 2006
Posts: 442
Location: Anniston, AL 36207
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| Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 7:43 am Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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Hi Bobkat,
If I'm not mistaken, and I sure could be, the cortec is to be used only under mating surfaces for raw aluminum. It isn't to be used as a primer for paint.
Here's what we did for bare aluminum before painting:
cleaned and scuffed the surface with scotch bright pads (green).
washed the surface with alodine to treat the surface and thoroughly rinsed with water.
sprayed our primer, which was an automotive primer.
sprayed our final coats of paint.
for unpainted mating surfaces, we cleaned the parts with lacquer thinner and applied a coat of cortec to each surface and let it dry, then put the parts together and riveted.
I'm using Stewarts on my latest build, but it is over fabric so the process is different.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
do not archive and the advice I give is what you pay for it.
[quote][b]
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Tommy Walker
N25A - Anniston, AL |
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lrm(at)skyhawg.com
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| Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 5:53 pm Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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I made mine with a drill bit. Just put the flat head in a drill press
vice and use the right size bit (I forget the size), smoke it until it
burns enough of the head away, throw away the bit. Simple, I guarantee
it works. More than one way to skin a cat. Larry, N1345L
On 5/1/2011 10:41 AM, Tommy Walker wrote:
| Quote: | Hi Bobkat,
If I'm not mistaken, and I sure could be, the cortec is to be used only
under mating surfaces for raw aluminum. It isn't to be used as a primer for
paint.
Here's what we did for bare aluminum before painting:
cleaned and scuffed the surface with scotch bright pads (green).
washed the surface with alodine to treat the surface and thoroughly rinsed
with water.
sprayed our primer, which was an automotive primer.
sprayed our final coats of paint.
for unpainted mating surfaces, we cleaned the parts with lacquer thinner and
applied a coat of cortec to each surface and let it dry, then put the parts
together and riveted.
I'm using Stewarts on my latest build, but it is over fabric so the process
is different.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
do not archive and the advice I give is what you pay for it.
|
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n4546v(at)mindspring.com
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| Posted: Sun May 01, 2011 6:08 pm Post subject: Machining rivet gun heads |
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do not archive
| Quote: | From the archives:
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The Dremel works fine and fast, use a small green round ball (silicon
carbide) or any other stone that has a point or round end, Put the riviet
gun head in the lathe chuck and while spinning it, fire off the moto-tool,
hold it with both hands braced against whatever is nearby, and shape the end
in a nice conical shape, starting from the hole in the center and working
outward, keep the cone shallow, you can always go deeper. No gottem lathe?
Sure you do, put your fastest turning pistol grip drill motor in your
workbench vise, usually upside down with pistol grip up, (up is towards the
sky for you airplane builders!) tighten vise enough to hold drill case, not
crushing it where the armature will never turn again! Place the rivet head
in the drill chuck and lock the trigger back and grind away. Takes longer
to describe than to do, finish with emery cloth if your stones grind course.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 701/plans
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