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Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:17 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had

significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the

excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg.  On mine,

I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a

pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air

coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of

attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower

cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower

cowl.  Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as

something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen

references to someone getting significant temp improvement by

putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it

a whirl.



So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches

to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,

maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front

of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.



What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to

get a well shaped fairing?  I can picture building a mold

on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using

that mold to create the new fairing.  But I'm just not

sure what types of techniques would be best for building this

glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed

RV-10?  I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,

so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would

seem to be tough.



Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the

fiberglass.



-- 

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:39 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Tim,



I did this exact mod on mine.  Mine was too close though so I opened up to 

2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya right) 

the front gear will flex far enough to hit it.  Scott and I bounced the 

plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing before I opened 

it.  It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself.  I will take some 

pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you are talking about. I 

have seven screws in mine.  You can probably use less because that is how 

many I used at first when it was a lot closer.



---

_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 8:46 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

I will leave it to the glass experts to discuss the best techniques.

My question is; I assume you are talking / looking at "A" model RV's

and don't all non A model RV's have a fairings in this location

already? My 6A and 8A do?

I also vaguely recall a -10 builder making a spring loaded cover for

this location.



Re fiberglass tech. Have you seen all the FG work Speedy details on

his site? Maybe you can pick up some tricks from him?

http://www.rv-8a.net/



Including a cool inner nose wheel gear leg fairing.

http://www.rv-8a.net/2010Jun.htm

http://www.rv-8a.net/images/CoolingFairing20.JPG



And some goofy looking wheel pants fairings that got him A LOT of

extra speed. And now a new nose wheel fairing

http://www.rv-8a.net/images/CoolingFairing20.JPG



Robin





Sent from my iPad2.



On Jun 21, 2011, at 12:23 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I've seen references by a couple of builders (not RV-10) who've had

 significant temperature improvements by putting a fairing over the

 excess slot in the lower cowl, in front of the gear leg.  On mine,

 I made my slot maybe 3" forward of the leg fairing, so there's a

 pretty significant hole there, and, the theory is, the air

 coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of

 attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower

 cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower

 cowl.  Funny thing is, I had been pondering this before as

 something that I thought would happen, but now that I've seen

 references to someone getting significant temp improvement by

 putting a fairing over that spot, I think I'd like to give it

 a whirl.



 So, I'd make kind of a curved wedge fairing that attaches

 to the cowl to cover that slot and blend to the gear leg,

 maybe leaving 1/2" or so gap behind the fairing in front

 of the gear leg, to give room for flexing.



 What kinds of good ideas can you think of though for how to

 get a well shaped fairing?  I can picture building a mold

 on the cowl with clay and molding over it, and then using

 that mold to create the new fairing.  But I'm just not

 sure what types of techniques would be best for building this

 glass part....especially on a painted and flying and completed

 RV-10?  I'd want the angle to match well with the gear leg,

 so taking the cowl off and doing it upside down would

 seem to be tough.



 Any ideas for me? I'm just not much of an artist with the

 fiberglass.



 --

 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

 do not archive

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:07 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Sean,

Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now

curious to see how that looks.  It would seem to me that if

there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of

air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize

it well enough.  I'm going to have to draw it or do paper

cutouts and see.  If you have photos, I'd love to see them.

Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate

to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some

appropriate bracing on top.  That could then be allowed to

move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to

the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,

it would stay sealed up, but from the inside.  I would have

to draw it to maybe paint you a picture.  It wouldn't

be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve

the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure

would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"

that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.



Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that

spot.  I did try the links you sent.  Interesting...that one

funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up

INSIDE the cowl.  I wonder why/how that works to do anything.

I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD



On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:

[quote] 



 Tim,



 I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I opened up

 to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya

 right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I

 bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing

 before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself.

 I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you

 are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use

 less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot closer.



 ---

robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 6:40 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Yes Stan (Speedy) was trying to smooth out the airflow in the lower cowl area and realized that with all the hardware down there (gear leg, engine brace etc...) that the outlet area of his 8A was much more congested than the underside of an RV-8. Plus Stan is really trying to get some speed out of that bird and is looking for it every place he can. As you know gaining speed is incremental but his best results have come from adding what is essentially HUGE wheel pant intersecting gear leg fairings that removes the sharp angle between the gear leg and wheel pant. I think he gained something like 5 Knots with that modification. Stan is very nice. I am sure you could call him for just about anything construction related.  Sorry about the crappy links I was working off my ipad.

All that being said you were not talking about added speed but increased cooling. How about testing your theory with wide tape before fabricating some fairing?

 



Robin





On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 



 Sean,

 Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now

 curious to see how that looks.  It would seem to me that if

 there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of

 air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize

 it well enough.  I'm going to have to draw it or do paper

 cutouts and see.  If you have photos, I'd love to see them.

 Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate

 to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some

 appropriate bracing on top.  That could then be allowed to

 move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to

 the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,

 it would stay sealed up, but from the inside.  I would have

 to draw it to maybe paint you a picture.  It wouldn't

 be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve

 the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure

 would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"

 that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.

 

 Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that

 spot.  I did try the links you sent.  Interesting...that one

 funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up

 INSIDE the cowl.  I wonder why/how that works to do anything.

 I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.

 

 Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

 

 

 

 On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:

 [quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "Seano" <sean(at)braunandco.com (sean(at)braunandco.com)>

 

 Tim,

 

 I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I opened up

 to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land hard (ya

 right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I

 bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear fairing

 before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by myself.

 I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is what you

 are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use

 less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot closer.

 

 

 

 ---

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 7:03 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

I was thinking of doing it with tape.  Should be pretty

painless that way. I may even be able to tape in a wedge

of cardboard for a fairing if I wanted.  It's worth the

effort I'm sure.  I just figured I'd get the supplies,

because I'm sure I'll end up doing something if it works,

and I have a small window where I'm motivated. 

It's too fun to fly, and hard to convince yourself

you want to modify something...especially fiberglass.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

On 6/21/2011 9:38 AM, Robin Marks wrote:

[quote] Yes Stan (Speedy) was trying to smooth out the airflow in the lower cowl

 area and realized that with all the hardware down there (gear leg,

 engine brace etc...) that the outlet area of his 8A was much more

 congested than the underside of an RV-8. Plus Stan is really trying to

 get some speed out of that bird and is looking for it every place he

 can. As you know gaining speed is incremental but his best results have

 come from adding what is essentially HUGE wheel pant intersecting gear

 leg fairings that removes the sharp angle between the gear leg and wheel

 pant. I think he gained something like 5 Knots with that modification.

 Stan is very nice. I am sure you could call him for just about anything

 construction related.

 Sorry about the crappy links I was working off my ipad.

 All that being said you were not talking about added speed but increased

 cooling. How about testing your theory with wide tape before fabricating

 some fairing?



 Robin



 On Tue, Jun 21, 2011 at 10:04 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com

 <mailto:Tim(at)myrv10.com>> wrote:



     

     <mailto:Tim(at)myrv10.com>>



     Sean,

     Very interesting that you had to move it a whole 2.5"....I'm now

     curious to see how that looks.  It would seem to me that if

     there were that much of a gap, it would still let in a lot of

     air perhaps, at high angles of attack, but I can't visualize

     it well enough.  I'm going to have to draw it or do paper

     cutouts and see.  If you have photos, I'd love to see them.

     Maybe it would be better if I attached a horizontal flat plate

     to my leg fairing, just INSIDE the cowling...with some

     appropriate bracing on top.  That could then be allowed to

     move fore and aft and as long as I built it with a tight gap to

     the lower cowl, and maybe even put a weatherstrip around it,

     it would stay sealed up, but from the inside.  I would have

     to draw it to maybe paint you a picture.  It wouldn't

     be as clean aerodynamically as a fairing, but it could serve

     the goal of keeping air out of the slot, unless the pressure

     would be so high that it would break the fiberglass "tongue"

     that I'd have sticking off the gear leg.



     Robin, I didn't realize that the 6A/8A have any fairing in that

     spot.  I did try the links you sent.  Interesting...that one

     funky fairing the guy built looks like it's actually up

     INSIDE the cowl.  I wonder why/how that works to do anything.

     I'll have to peruse the page a bit more.

     Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD



     On 6/20/2011 11:37 PM, Seano wrote:



         

         <mailto:sean(at)braunandco.com>>



         Tim,



         I did this exact mod on mine. Mine was too close though so I

         opened up

         to 2.5 inches in front of the gear leg, otherwise when I land

         hard (ya

         right) the front gear will flex far enough to hit it. Scott and I

         bounced the plane from the prop and could easily hit the gear

         fairing

         before I opened it. It makes lower cowl removal a breeze even by

         myself.

         I will take some pics of it tomorrow and you can see if this is

         what you

         are talking about. I have seven screws in mine. You can probably use

         less because that is how many I used at first when it was a lot

         closer.



         ---

rbibb

Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 37

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 10:39 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Tim:



Go to VAnsairforce site and search for posts by Dan Horton (DanH).  He is

the man on fiberglass construction.  Read his tutorials on making fairings.

He makes it look easy....



Richard Bibb

571-379-3290 mobile

 

 



--

indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 1:51 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Seems like making a actuating aluminum scoop would be a cleaner installation than putting an intake in that area.

 

If one is hell bend on making a vent, use duct tape as a parting agent between the painted cowl and the fabicated part.

 

Laminate up some foam, a heavy density blue foam or Spider foam works great. You can adhere the foam to the Duct tape with Bondo.

 

Shape it with saws, cheese grader, rasps, files or what every suits your fancy.

 

Hand sand it with 80 grit down to 180. Blow off dust with compressed air. laminate with microballons.

 

Shape and sand again. 

 

Laminate with several layers of glass and resin, a satin weave would work best on the compound angles. Let cure.

 

Hollow out the foam with tools or spill fuel on a foam that desolves. 

 

WaLLAAA!

 



 



[quote] From: rbibb(at)tomet.net

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: RE: Fairing Construction - How to?

 Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 14:35:43 -0400

 

 

 

 Tim:

 

 Go to VAnsairforce site and search for posts by Dan Horton (DanH). He is

 the man on fiberglass construction. Read his tutorials on making fairings

Lew Gallagher

Joined: 04 Jan 2008
Posts: 402
Location: Greenville , SC

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Hey John,

  

 Maybe I misunderstood, but I think the idea is to close  off that area, not create an intake.  Otherwise, good fiberglass fun  stuff!

  

 Later, - Lew

 [quote]   ---

_________________
non-pilot
crazy about building
NOW OFICIALLY BUILDER #40549
Fly off completed !

indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 21, 2011 3:03 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Silly me creating things for the sake of creation and not for reason.

  

 I was thinking that he wanted to create a venturi and was hoping to suck more air in through the front end by having a more direct route for air going out the back end. 

  

 Sealing it would be even easier, just make a spring loaded device that retracts when the gear leg pushes on it. 

 

    From: lewgall(at)charter.net

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fairing Construction - How to?

Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 18:18:08 -0400



   .ExternalClass .ecxhmmessage P {padding-bottom:0px;padding-left:0px;padding-right:0px;padding-top:0px;} .ExternalClass BODY.ecxhmmessage {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:10pt;}   Hey John,

  

 Maybe I misunderstood, but I think the idea is to close off that area, not create an intake.  Otherwise, good fiberglass fun stuff!

  

 Later, - Lew

 [quote] ---

nukeflyboy

Joined: 05 Jan 2008
Posts: 162
Location: Granbury, TX

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:41 pm Post subject: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?

Just a minor point:  Tim, you say "the theory is, the air 

coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of 

attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower 

cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower 

cowl".  It doesn't work that way.  You have to decrease the pressure at the outlet, increasing the differential pressure.  It is differential pressure that drives the flow.  Think of it this way - if the pressure was the same top and bottom there would be no driving force, no flow.



So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the delta P if you want more cooling flow.

_________________
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:59 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

That's my point exactly.  just think in terms of

having ram air coming in the main cowl holes,

and now you have ram air coming in the lower cowl

through that slot.  You could end up with very little

differential pressure.   If you seal that forward

facing hole in front of the gear, then you won't

get any INCOMING air into the lower cowl, from

ram air.  The only air that will go into the lower

cowl will be the stuff that came in from the

upper chamber, after passing through the

cylinders and oil cooler.



So we're talking about the same thing. leaving

that slot open as-is, is the same as not putting

those rubber seals around your airbox snorkel...you'd

be forcing air into the cowl down there, and that

would wipe out your pressure differential between

the upper and lower cowl...or at least reduce

it.



I'm just trying to maximize that differential by

getting rid of one more place that shouldn't

get forced air rammed into it.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

On 6/22/2011 4:41 PM, nukeflyboy wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Just a minor point:  Tim, you say "the theory is, the air

 coming in will hit the gear leg especially at higher angles of

 attack, and flow into that hole, adding pressure to the lower

 cowl, decreasing the differential between the upper and lower

 cowl".  It doesn't work that way.  You have to decrease the pressure at the outlet, increasing the differential pressure.  It is differential pressure that drives the flow.  Think of it this way - if the pressure was the same top and bottom there would be no driving force, no flow.



 So whatever it is that you are constructing, it needs to increase the delta P if you want more cooling flow.



 --------

 Dave Moore

 RV-6 flying

 RV-10 QB - Need to start panel

 Rest almost done

 Breathing too much fiberglass dust





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=343813#343813

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 2:05 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Dave I think you miss read what Tim said.  The problem is that the hole is

there now, with no fairing, and thus there might be an increase in pressure

in the lower cowl at higher angles of attack.  It is my understanding that

he is trying to build a fairing that will redirect the airflow and thus

decrease the pressure in the lower cowl.  I tried the same thing by putting

a deflector on the back of the lower cowl.  I saw no improvement so I took

it off.  I can't wait to see if Tim has any success with putting a fairing

on the opening.  During hot summer climbs I need all the cooling I can get.



Rene' Felker

N423CF

801-721-6080



--

jcumins(at)jcis.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 4:54 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Ok I guess I will step in here.  I use to own a Cardinal and heat issues and

drag issues on the 1968 cardinal version was very normal.  The lower cowl

has a very large opening on the back edge.  Thus causing a very large ram

air affect adding to the pressure in the lower cowl.  Thus lowering the

differential pressure. Thus poor cooling and 

Increased drag.  The fix was a large fairing that was attached to the cowl

to close up the hole, a aero dynamic air exit, thus majorly lowering the

lower cowl pressure and  increasing the differential pressure. And it added

5-7 knots to the cruise speed.



Looking at how tight the RV-10 cowl is, if I was a betting man. I think

working on enlarging the air exit area, and somehow making sure the slot

where the gear leg resides preventing any air from increasing the lower cowl

pressure from ram air. Reshaping the lower firewall with a fairing, to cut

the friction of the air exiting the cowl and helping the air make the 90

degree to go out the bottom cowl exit. 



I am not sure about how affective the slots I have seen people installed in

the lower center portion are either .  Maybe more slots are needed.  Only

problem is the slots also I suspect are not that affective due to the high

speed air rushing over them building a boundary layer, and causing a

restriction to the air trying to exit out the slot them self's. 



One more Cardinal trick that really worked well to assist in cylinder

cooling was to increase the distance between the aft cylinder fins and the

aft baffling.  We would insert small strips of 1/8 to 3/16 pieces of

Baffling material between the cylinders and the aft baffling material

opening that distance just a bit and it really made a very large difference

in cylinder temps 



Just a few thoughts.



Anyone want to chime in on this.  



I am going to have this same discussion with engineer friend and see what

his thoughts are about the best way to increase the differential pressure.

Between the top and bottom of the cowl.

John Cumins

40864  Dimpling wing skins SB Wings.

 

--

nukeflyboy

Joined: 05 Jan 2008
Posts: 162
Location: Granbury, TX

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: Fairing Construction - How to?

You are right - I misread what Tim is trying to do.  I suspect that the gear can flex quite a bit so you need to account for it.  Have you thought of using some kind of rubber or soft material?  It would have to be stiff enough to withstand the air pressure without deflecting but would allow the gear leg impact without damaging anything.  Something like those thick silicone gaskets with a slit in it for gear movement.  It could stay in place even when removing the lower cowl and could be glued on the inside of the cowl.

_________________
Dave Moore
RV-6 built and sold
RV-10 built and flying

AV8ORJWC

Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 1149
Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 6:44 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

Chiming in just for the thrill of mixing it up.  The lower cowl is an

area of High Pressure in the region of laminar flow.  The Upper deck has

lower pressure flowing over it to the windshield where everything can

break loose.  Given Tim's desire to reduce problems inherent with the

STOCK Vans nose gear leg.  Louvers in the lower cowl do not assist the

Delta T/Delta P equation.  High Pressure in the top deck.  Lower

pressure and need for enhanced outflow in the lower deck.  The firewall,

assorted added obstructions and the gear leg work against the efficient

flow of High pressure air over the cooling fins and an effective

extraction of heat and energy laden airflow.  Correct sizing of the High

pressure deck, along with well designed flow characteristics of the High

Pressure deck lend themselves to caressing the airflow out of the

stagnant lower deck and efficiently into the slipstream of the lower

cowl.



LoPresti makes a living selling the concept of changing the amount of

airflow out of the lower deck (Cowl Flaps) and into the slipstream.

There is a whole body of data from Deems, Robin and others on the use of

James plenums and dealing with airflow and oil temp control.  Is there

someone who can quantifiably support more louvers in the high pressure

area aid additional extraction of air coming from the High Pressure

Deck?



Showplanes is said to be working on an improved cowl.  Maybe OSH '11 is

the year to keep a watchful eye open.



The Cardinal baffling idea was used by both Cirrus and GAMI to assist

Continental engines in those aft cylinders.  It increase high pressure

flow into the lower pressure chamber.  That chamber has high pressure

laminar flow waiting for more louvers to mix up the dynamic flow. Maybe

Kelly can chime in from Arizona.  I am an advocate of a high pressure

chamber designed specifically for enhanced flow which has individual

cylinder fins mounted to direct the need flow over the exhaust valve and

cooling fins of each cylinder.  Those who have used manometers might

understand my desire.  More louvers, too simple to understand but

popular no less.



John - OSH '11

--

robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2011 7:33 pm Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

As a -10 (and 8A) James cowl & plenum owner (read: disgruntled) I can tell

you that the single best modification we made for reducing high CHT's and

Oil Temps was the addition of 4 louvers on the underside of the cowl. Not

ideal but by that point we were willing to try anything. The temps are all

manageable now just passing 225 hours TTSN.

I can say with little hesitation that the stock Vans cowl with standard

baffling is currently the proven best option for proper cooling, running

LOP etc... I have been in relatively close contact with the nice folks at

Showplanes. They are getting closer but not at production stage yet. Am I

going to be a guinea pig twice? Hard to know but my long range plans are

to replace the James cowl at some point. (yes John I remember you want it

for testing...)

Unless you are one that enjoys severe migraines and tinkering vs. flying,

consider using stock cowl till there is a proven alternative.



Robin



--

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:52 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

I have had to lengthen the slot on the lower cowl for the gear leg to allow

the lower cowl to be removed. I have an Aerocomposits 3 blade prop and the

lower cowl has to drop straight down in order to clear the spinner when

removing it. Even with the longer slot forward of the gear leg I still pull

down the tail to allow the front gear to drop down as far as possible. 

Albert Gardner

N991RV

Yuma, AZ

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RV-10 N991RV

Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:52 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

I suffered from hi oil temps and adding a second oil cooler among other

things solved most of the problem, but the final solution was to add an

opening on each side under the  oil coolers on the bottom cowl to allow more

exit air. Temp in Yuma yesterday was 113, temp in hell was 112, so yes, Yuma

is hotter than hell.

Albert Gardner

N991RV

Yuma, AZ



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RV-9A N872RV
RV-10 N991RV

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2011 7:16 am Post subject: Fairing Construction - How to?

That slot is pretty close to your gear leg.

Sean said he moved his 2.5" forward of the leg or

so, because the leg flexed forward under load,

and he wanted it to not hit that filler plate.

Do you find any evidence of hitting it?

If you don't, then that's exactly what I'm hoping

for....minimal gap between the leg and the cowl.

And, if you really wanted it tighter, with

a gap that tight, you could put a rubber

flap seal around it too if you wanted.



Just want to know if you've ever seen it hit.

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD

do not archive

On 6/23/2011 9:49 AM, Albert Gardner wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I have had to lengthen the slot on the lower cowl for the gear leg to allow

 the lower cowl to be removed. I have an Aerocomposits 3 blade prop and the

 lower cowl has to drop straight down in order to clear the spinner when

 removing it. Even with the longer slot forward of the gear leg I still pull

 down the tail to allow the front gear to drop down as far as possible.

 Albert Gardner

 N991RV

 Yuma, AZ

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