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adjusting cooling baffles

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sarg314(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:28 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high.Â  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1.Â  

 

Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? 



How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? 

thanks,

-- 

Tom Sargent

  [quote][b]

Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

You can use aluminum tape across the fins to do your fine tuning, then 

make a dam to same dimensions when you find what works.

On 6/30/2011 2:20 PM, thomas sargent wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl 

 #3 is a bit high.  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the 

 inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of 

 the cooling fins on cyl #1.



 Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try?



 How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's 

 backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on 

 the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding 

 it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a 

 better way to secure it temoporarily?



 thanks,

 -- 

 Tom Sargent

 *

 *

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 1:52 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Tape will work to R&D. In fact you can use tape as the dam if you want. 

We made curved “ramps” of various sizes to adjust the cooling. What we found is there was very little we could do to bring down #3 temps due to the rear baffle being nearly flush to the backside of #3 preventing any cooling air to run past the rear fins. Other builders have placed washers back there to force a gap for a little batter air circulation. Because I am running a 200 Hp & the SJ cowl cooling is at a premium. We decided to open up the rear baffle and build a ramp for real cooling air to wrap around the backside of #3. This made a 15+ degree difference and also allowed us to remove most of our forward cooling ramps. Note: we were able to make this adjustment w/o removing the baffle.  

 

Robin 

 

 From: owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of thomas sargent

 Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:21 PM

To: rv-list

Subject: adjusting cooling baffles



 

I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high.  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1.  

 

Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? 



How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? 

thanks,

-- 

Tom Sargent 	  Quote: 	
		    [/b] 	
 RV-List Email Forum -[/b]_-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse[/quote][/b][/quote] Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,[/b]w.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-Li

=====================<      - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -[/b][/quote] m">http://forums.matronics.com[/b][/quote]                    -Matt Dralle, List A; http://www.matronics.com/contribution[/b][/quote] =======================[/b] [/quote] 



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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 2:10 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Another thing to look at is the backside of #3. Make sure there's a little gap back there as the fins are very shallow on the intake side and, if the baffle is very tight to the back of the head, not much air can pass by that area. A washer under the baffle mounting screw might be enough to make a difference.



Pax,



Ed Holyoke



--- On Thu, 6/30/11, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:

[quote]

From: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com>

Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles

To: rv-list(at)matronics.com

Date: Thursday, June 30, 2011, 2:31 PM



--> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <[url=/mc/compose?to=kellym(at)aviating.com]kellym(at)aviating.com[/url]>



You can use aluminum tape across the fins to do your fine tuning, then make a dam to same dimensions when you find what works.

On 6/30/2011 2:20 PM, thomas sargent wrote:

[quote] I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high.  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1.

 

 Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try?

 

 How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily?

 

 thanks,

 -- Tom Sargent

 ========================http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?bsp;            - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -bsp;               -Matt Dralle, List Adontribution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution [quote][b]

sarg314(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 2:58 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Robin:

Great photos. Thanks.Â  I was thinking about trying a deflector mounted on the back baffle, angling up at about 45 deg. for a couple inches.Â  It might force more air down thru the back fins.Â  Of course, I really don't know how the air is moving in that area. It's probably pretty turbulent and won't move the way I expect it to.

 

I don't think I can move the rear baffle back with a washer at this stage of the game.Â  I'll see if any movement is possible.Â  I doubt it.



-- 

Tom Sargent

  [quote][b]

recapen(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:20 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Tom,



I was able to get one washer between the rear plate and the cylinder for the screw that holds that back baffle plate to the cylinder.  I used one of those washer-holder-tools.



It really helped to balance that side.....



Ralph





--

bobbyhester(at)newwavecom
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 6:27 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

You can use aluminum tape to find out how much needs to be blocked. 5 yrs later and I'm still using tape. 



Sent from my Verizon iPhone



On Jun 30, 2011, at 3:20 PM, thomas sargent <sarg314(at)gmail.com (sarg314(at)gmail.com)> wrote:



[quote]I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high.  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1.  

 

Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? 



How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? 

thanks,

-- 

Tom Sargent

   	  Quote: 	
		  

	


[b]

Dale Ensing

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 2:29 am Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

The temporary  aluminum tape can be applied directly to the cyl fins...or, if you put a couple of plate nuts in the baffle ramp, you can mount a light weight aluminum angle in front of the cylinder which can be easily removed for sizing by reducing the height of the vertical portion.



Sent from my iPad



On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:23 PM, Bobby Hester <bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net (bobbyhester(at)newwavecomm.net)> wrote:



[quote]You can use aluminum tape to find out how much needs to be blocked. 5 yrs later and I'm still using tape. 



Sent from my Verizon iPhone



On Jun 30, 2011, at 3:20 PM, thomas sargent <[url=mailto:sarg314(at)gmail.com]sarg314(at)gmail.com (sarg314(at)gmail.com)[/url]> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  I notice that CHT on cyl #1 (on my IO-360) is a bit cool and CHT cyl #3 is a bit high.  I've seen many planes with small "dams" at the inlet, small strips of aluminum blocking the bottom 1/4" or 1/2" of the cooling fins on cyl #1.  

 

Is there any science to this or is it just cut and try? 



How well does the piece of aluminum have to be secured? Since it's backed up against the fins and, I'm assuming has a flange resting on the inlet ramp, I'm guessing that just using good quality tape holding it down to the inlet ramp will do for testing purposes. Or is there a better way to secure it temoporarily? 

thanks,

-- 

Tom Sargent

   	  Quote: 	
		  

	






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st"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

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[b]

_________________
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC

sarg314(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:36 am Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Looking at the oil cooler - installed according to plans - I note that the lowest 1 inch of the opening to the oil cooler is directly behind the cooling fins of cyl #4 .Â  Is air heated by the fins going thru the oil cooler?Â  Has any one experimented with a small baffle there to block the aft side of the fins on #4 so that the air can't so easily get to the oil cooler there?Â  I've noticed that once the oil tempo gets high it takes a long time (~10 minutes) to bring it down. Maybe this is why.

 

I managed to get a 1/16" thick washer on the screw between the rear  baffle and cyl #3. It took a fair bit of fiddling, but it's there now.Â  I  will try some tape on #1.

-- 

Tom Sargent

  [quote][b]

Dale Ensing

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 7:56 am Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Tom,

 If you can come up with a way to temporarily block the lower  area in front of #4 for the summer months (and it works to get the temps down),  you may want the extra heat in the winter. I have difficulty getting/keeping my  oil temp up in the winter. 

 Dale

 [quote]   ---

_________________
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC

mrobert569(at)hotmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 9:09 am Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

What you speak of has merit.  I lower the oil temps over 5 degrees by just adding two layers of baffle rubber material between the oil cooler and the baffle wall.  That effectively moved the oil cooler away from #4 by 1/8 inch allowing much more cool air to get to the oil cooler.



Mike Robertson



Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:32:53 -0700

Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles

From: sarg314(at)gmail.com

To: rv-list(at)matronics.com



Looking at the oil cooler - installed according to plans - I note that the lowest 1 inch of the opening to the oil cooler is directly behind the cooling fins of cyl #4 .  Is air heated by the fins going thru the oil cooler?  Has any one experimented with a small baffle there to block the aft side of the fins on #4 so that the air can't so easily get to the oil cooler there?  I've noticed that once the oil tempo gets high it takes a long time (~10 minutes) to bring it down. Maybe this is why.

 

I managed to get a 1/16" thick washer on the screw between the rear  baffle and cyl #3. It took a fair bit of fiddling, but it's there now.  I  will try some tape on #1.

-- 

Tom Sargent

  [quote]



get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

http://forums.matronics.com

="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



[b]

Dave Burnham

Joined: 04 Jul 2011
Posts: 6
Location: Huntsville, AL

Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:10 pm Post subject: adjusting cooling baffles

Here is a picture of the "cowl insullation material" stuck to my #1 cylinder. Have 3 degree higher on #3 vs #1 - this weekend at 97F OAT - #3 running at 354F - Oil temp doesn't go over 185F winter or summer.

 Doesn't take much tape to affect #3 temps.

Dave Burnham

RV6A Madison, AL

On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 12:06 PM, Mike Robertson <mrobert569(at)hotmail.com (mrobert569(at)hotmail.com)> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		       What you speak of has merit.  I lower the oil temps over 5 degrees by just adding two layers of baffle rubber material between the oil cooler and the baffle wall.  That effectively moved the oil cooler away from #4 by 1/8 inch allowing much more cool air to get to the oil cooler.

 

Mike Robertson



Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:32:53 -0700

Subject: Re: adjusting cooling baffles



From: sarg314(at)gmail.com (sarg314(at)gmail.com) 

To: rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)

Looking at the oil cooler - installed according to plans - I note that the lowest 1 inch of the opening to the oil cooler is directly behind the cooling fins of cyl #4 .  Is air heated by the fins going thru the oil cooler?  Has any one experimented with a small baffle there to block the aft side of the fins on #4 so that the air can't so easily get to the oil cooler there?  I've noticed that once the oil tempo gets high it takes a long time (~10 minutes) to bring it down. Maybe this is why.

  

I managed to get a 1/16" thick washer on the screw between the rear  baffle and cyl #3. It took a fair bit of fiddling, but it's there now.  I  will try some tape on #1.

-- 

Tom Sargent

  

 	  Quote: 	
		  



get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

http://forums.matronics.com

="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	


 		 	   		  

   	  Quote: 	
		  



t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

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_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

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