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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:40 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
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dmaib(at)mac.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:56 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Mine are totally removed with my current inlet setup. Mine is a bit
different than most due to the AC compressor installation that
affects the LH inlet. Prior to this setup, I flew with the RH cut
down about 50%. I believe there are many flying with partial or no
front baffles. My hangar neighbor took both of his out to solve
cooling issues on a stock setup.
David Maib
40559
flying
On Jul 5, 2011, at 11:38 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
Quote: |
<n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles,
the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to
the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
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kdbelue(at)charter.net Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:26 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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I never installed mine. CHT are all within 30.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 5, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
Quote: |
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
|
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 502 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:36 am Post subject: Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
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I cut mine exactly in half before I flew. Now my #5 cylinder is the hottest CHT. My #1 is fairly cool. Now I wish I had a little extra material on the front of #1 to even them out. I powder coated mine so I wanted the final size before I installed them. My #5 is still way under the limits and I still haven't taken the time to really seal the baffles.
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_________________ 40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo. Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:18 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for 20 hrs. It reduced my temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by about 25 degrees.
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM
Subject: Cylinder front baffle question
--> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net (n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net)>
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there. --> nbsp; =======================
[quote][b]
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Bob Turner
Joined: 03 Jan 2009 Posts: 885 Location: Castro Valley, CA
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:18 am Post subject: Re: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Note: I'm still in phase 1.
My front cylinders were hotter than the others. I cut 1/2" off each air dam.
#1 was still hottest, so I removed the air dam there. Result is that now #5 cht is hotter than #1. #2 is still slightly hotter than others on the left side. Now, I think:
I need to cut another 1/2" off the #2 air dam, and put the #1 back on but with most of the material removed.
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_________________ Bob Turner
RV-10 QB |
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rleffler
Joined: 05 Nov 2006 Posts: 680
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:36 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
Bob
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_________________ Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler |
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1705 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 11:55 am Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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We are only talking some pieces of flat 2024 with one right angle,
correct? Why not make some identical trial pieces to get size right,
then take the final pieces, adjust size and powder coat? They will just
have 2-3 rivets holding them that won't be powder coated. Not sure it
makes sense to try and finalize all the baffling and then powder coat as
one unit.
On 7/5/2011 12:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
[quote]
That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
Bob
--
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_________________ Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008 Posts: 1188 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:03 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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If your rear cylinders are hotter than front you need some of the
baffles. That is their purpose, to even up the cooling between front
and rear. Finding the right size to minimize differences is part of
your initial flight testing.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
Quote: | HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for 20 hrs. It reduced my
temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by about
25 degrees.
From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM
Subject: Cylinder front baffle question
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the
little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2
cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there. --> nbsp;
=======================
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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_________________ Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 502 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:03 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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so Bob,
I know they are all different but if I was to do it over on mine, I would
leave 3/4 on the 1,3,5 side and half on the 2,4,6 side.
---
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_________________ 40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 502 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:08 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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I like it. Maybe have a bunch powdercoated and use little bolts on the
front and trade them out until it is right.
---
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_________________ 40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours |
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rene(at)felker.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:20 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Just to throw a little gas on this fire. I did cut my baffles down a
little, but was concerned with the other end of spectrum...shock cooling.
My temps were real high over the first XX hours, but got better as the
engine was broken in. I wish my cooling was better, but have not seen
anything that would be worth trying....at least not beyond what I have
already done. I just came out of ABQ yesterday and my oil temp got up to
225 and a couple of cylinders were at 410. I just slowed down my climb to
get the temperatures in line and pressed on to my initial cruising altitude
of 14500.
I get many more shock cooling alarms then I do over temp......so I have
decided to stick with what I got for right now. I may try to close up the
gap in the lower cowl in front of the front gear leg, but that would only be
if I open up the slot more to allow the lower cowl to be R&R'd easier.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
--
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n223rv(at)wolflakeairport Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 12:29 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Thanks Kelly, I am aware of how they work, but that wasn't my question. I am working on balancing mine now. Mine seem best with them removed. 1 and 2 were my hottest, followed by #5 and #6. I'm just curious with what others are seeing and if others have them totally removed. It appears that lots of people do have them removed.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 5, 2011, at 3:59 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Quote: |
If your rear cylinders are hotter than front you need some of the
baffles. That is their purpose, to even up the cooling between front
and rear. Finding the right size to minimize differences is part of
your initial flight testing.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Bruce Johnson
<bruce1hwjohnson(at)yahoo.com> wrote:
> HI Michael, I took mine out after running them for 20 hrs. It reduced my
> temps about 20 degrees. Now instead of # 2 being the warmest # 6 is by about
> 25 degrees.
>
> From: Michael Kraus <n223rv(at)wolflakeairport.net>
> To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 5, 2011 8:38 AM
> Subject: Cylinder front baffle question
>
>
>
> Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the
> little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2
> cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
>
> Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
>
> Just curious what the different sizes are out there. --> nbsp;
> =======================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Kelly McMullen
Joined: 16 Apr 2008 Posts: 1188 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:02 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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You must have a tight cooling limit set on your system(maybe 20 or 30
degrees). There is no way you are going to "shock cool" a naturally
aspirated engine with air cooling. If it were possible, engines flying
through rain or operating in the arctic would be breaking all over the
place. When you pull power, even from 410 degrees, the engine is only
going to cool to 270, maybe 250 over 3-5 minutes.
It heats a whole lot faster, in 10-20 seconds when you apply full
power for take off. That is the quickest any temperature change is
going to happen. I'd suggest changing your alarm to 50 degrees. It
will be very rare for that to go off. Shock cooling in the context of
naturally aspirated engines is simply an old wives tale.
On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 1:16 PM, Rene Felker <rene(at)felker.com> wrote:
Quote: |
Just to throw a little gas on this fire. I did cut my baffles down a
little, but was concerned with the other end of spectrum...shock cooling.
My temps were real high over the first XX hours, but got better as the
engine was broken in. I wish my cooling was better, but have not seen
anything that would be worth trying....at least not beyond what I have
already done. I just came out of ABQ yesterday and my oil temp got up to
225 and a couple of cylinders were at 410. I just slowed down my climb to
get the temperatures in line and pressed on to my initial cruising altitude
of 14500.
I get many more shock cooling alarms then I do over temp......so I have
decided to stick with what I got for right now. I may try to close up the
gap in the lower cowl in front of the front gear leg, but that would only be
if I open up the slot more to allow the lower cowl to be R&R'd easier.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________ Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD |
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daveleikam(at)wi.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:28 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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Totally removed them. Good temps.
David Leikam
RV10
Flying
On Jul 5, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
Quote: |
Just curious what the size is of everyones front cylinder baffles, the little ones on the front of the cylinders to block airflow to the #1 and #2 cylinders? Stock size is about 2.5".
Is anyone flying with them totally removed?
Just curious what the different sizes are out there...
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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Kellym
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1705 Location: Sun Lakes AZ
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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One other idea Bob. Don't install baffles for phase one. Experiment with
aluminum tape pasted on the front cylinders. When you get it right, trim
baffles to match, powder coat and install.
On 7/5/2011 12:27 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
Quote: |
That's my current "opportunity". I want to powder coat too, but the
decision is if I powder coat them now, then I may have to deal with cooling
issues later, or powder coat after the baffles are "tweaked", but then can I
get the baffles clean enough to powder coat later?
Bob
|
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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_________________ Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD |
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rene(at)felker.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 8:01 pm Post subject: Cylinder front baffle question |
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I will look at that again, but I think it is set to 50 degrees a minute. If
I remember right , it is a rate setting in the GRT system. I will check
that tomorrow when I am at the hanger.
Rene'
801-721-6080
--
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