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thomasg(at)infosysnetwork Guest
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:19 am Post subject: Prop not cycling during run up |
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Recently the time it took for me to see RPMs drop when cycling the prop back during run up increased. It use to be almost instantaneous, but then I noticed 6 -10 seconds. Today cycling the prop had no affect other then seeing a quick, slight drop in oil pressure when pushing the prop forward.
The prop acts normal otherwise, getting up to red line on take off and cycling while in flight.
This is my first CS prop, so this is all new to me. I don't see anything leaking, but after flying I have a very light oily residue on the prop which is barely noticeable.
Any ideas/thoughts?
CJ/Housai 285
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talew(at)bellsouth.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 12:51 pm Post subject: Prop not cycling during run up |
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I had a similar problem on my cj years ago . The sleeve on the prop cable near
the governor
was slipping . I tightened it up and cured the problem .
There is a screen on the governor that you may want to check also .
Terry
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wlannon(at)persona.ca Guest
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Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:00 pm Post subject: Prop not cycling during run up |
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Thomas;
Terry's suggestion is very likely the problem. Not uncommon on the CJ.
Have someone move the RPM (prop.) control through full travel while you
check for any movement of the copper cable housing where it is clamped
approx. 8" or so from the governor.
Any movement will mess up the RPM setting.
Walt
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 4:45 am Post subject: Prop not cycling during run up |
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Both excellent points Terry. Many people do not check the prop
governor screen periodically. If it becomes gunked up, no oil can pass
through it to the prop hub piston assembly.
If the screen is clean and the cable sleeve is secure, remove the prop
hub dome and piston and see if you can move the counterweights by hand.
They should move freely with some amount of resistance. But definitely
they should move to full coarse pitch and back to fine pitch freely. If
they don't, you will need to remove the prop blades from the hub, then
remove the hub from the engine. Disassemble the hub completely and
check the flat bearings (2 on each side) for pitting and flat
spotting. You will be able to see flat spots on the bearing rollers and
corresponding races where the bearing has been binding. If the bearings
look good, clean, re-grease and reassemble the hub and bench test for
smooth operation of the counterweights. Check the phenolic pieces
inside the large castellated nuts and replace the seals that go around
the phenolic pieces. LIGHTLY polish the inside surface of the phenolic
pieces with 320 grit wet/dry paper. Replace the outside and inside
seals on the hub piston.
When reassembling the hub, do not over-tighten the large castellated
nuts that "squeeze" the flat bearing. Over tightening the large
castellated nuts squeezes the flat bearings and prevents them from
rotating against their respective races. Any questions, don't hesitate
to telephone me.
Dennis
A. Dennis Savarese
334-285-6263
334-546-8182 (cell)
Skype: Yakguy1
www.yak-52.com
On 7/13/2011 3:48 PM, T A LEWIS wrote:
[quote]
I had a similar problem on my cj years ago . The sleeve on the prop cable near
the governor
was slipping . I tightened it up and cured the problem .
There is a screen on the governor that you may want to check also .
Terry
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wlannon(at)persona.ca Guest
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Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 11:29 am Post subject: Prop not cycling during run up |
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Hi Dennis;
Some comments on the work you describe for the blade bearing assemblies;
Before attempting to remove and dis-assemble these the propellor overhaul
manual should be read and understood.
Things to check before you start:
1. Are the "0" index marks lined up on the big nuts and the hub?
2. Do you have the special tools?
3. Mark the exact position of any balance weights - relative to the HUB.
NOT to the big nut or to the seal packing nut to which the weights are
attached. There could be weights on both sides of the hub rather than just
one side. That depends on the amount of VERTICAL imbalance that had to be
corrected.
4. Before removing the bearing assy from the hub loosen the grease seal
packing nuts. These are punch staked to the big nut which on removal could
destroy the thread. Carefully drill the stake indents just enough to remove
the upset metal
5. If it required excess force to rotate the blades it is possible there is
corrosion on the blade ferrule where it contacts the micarta (phenolic)
bushing. Check for that.
6. If all parts are serviceable re-assemble with lots of grease,
preferably Aeroshell 5! Install the grease seal and retaining nut but do
not re-stake yet.
7. Re-install the complete assy. and if the index marks were lined up or
SHORT of lining up then line them up.
Blade torque should be measured at this time but the overhaul process
requires that to be done individually with the interconnecting drive sleeve
removed from the hub. With the index marks found as above this should not
be necessary.
If the index marks were BEYOND lining up then re-torquing should be done.
It is entirely possible that the existing lock plates may not fit. If so
discard them and make new ones, do not loosen the nut.
8. Tighten the grease seal retaining nut. Check for a position to
re-install the balance weight relative to your HUB marking. Re-stake the
retaining nut in new locations
Cheers;
Walt
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