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Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic
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zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 10:55 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

On my Classic Europa with 912UL, I am experiencing too high oil temps for comfort. Full power climb will run the oil temp to the very edge of the red zone after less than a 1000' climb, settling to well above 120 degrees C in 65% power cruise. I rarely see oil temps below 120, except in winter.



A while ago Frans made quite a convincing argument that the tandem setup of the water and oil cooler is far from optimal, ideally I should give the oil cooler a dedicated inlet.



Before going into such a substantial modification, I decided to close the gaps between engine cowl and water-cooler, as well as the gap between oil and water cooler to see what that brings in term of oil-cooling. Attached picture give you an idea of the significant gaps between cowl and water cooler.



I completed the first part of this little project: putting in a vertical plate around the water cooler. This plate blocks air from entering the cowling undisturbed, and will serve as a plate that rubber seals will be sitting against. 



I was stunned to see the enormous effect this vertical plate alone has on oil temp: a drop of about 8 degrees C compared to previous flight with almost identical OAT. This time even after a 2000' full power climb, the oil temp would not exceed 130 degrees C. I am now hopeful that closing the gaps on the sides will bring the oil temps down to an acceptable level.



A long intro from my end, leading up to a couple of questions:



* What type of rubber sealing should I use, is it Silicone because of its resistance to high/low temps? And: who sells small quantities of whatever type is required?



* What relation, if any, is there between width of gap to seal and thickness of the seal? 

Reasons for this question: on the propellor-side of the inlet I have a gap about 13 mm between cowl and radiator, does this ask for additional measures to prevent the seal from being pushed to the propellor-side of the radiator by the high-pressure bubble in front of the cooler? (this would open up the gap again, allowing air to escape)



* I intend to attach the seal to the inside of both halves of the cowl. Two reasons for that: (1) on the inside the seals won't disturb the airflow to the radiator, and (2) aesthetics. 

What is the best way to attach them to the glass cowl (ideally without disturbing airflow by rivnuts or what else sticking out in the flow of incoming air to the rad)



* A gap exists between water and oil cooler; top and bottom gap is about 1.5-2 mm, gaps on both sides are about 5 mms. These need to be closed up as well, but until now I have not come up with a good idea for this. 

How did you seal this? All suggestions are more than welcome! (with some pics if not too much trouble please) 



* Finally, I need to close a 0.2-0.7mm gap between cooler and installed vertical plate. How can I best attach silicone rubber to metal, wide-head rivnuts with supporting strips or will an oversized (say 2mm) sponge-type silicone profile with adhesive-back suffice?

ph-mzw-water-cooler-gap.jpg

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Note opening at top of water cooler, appr. 4 sq. inch where air can pass radiator straigh into cowl

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_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 2:31 pm Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

 	  Quote: 	
		   On my Classic Europa with 912UL, I am experiencing too high oil temps for

comfort.
	




Marcel,



Ten years or so ago, there was an article in the Europa News (we don't get

them now) about oil temp problems in Kim Prout's Classic in California.



Kim and Ivan Shaw moved the oil cooler to just below the spinner after

cutting a hole there to suit.  The article reported the mod was hugely

successful following which they flew to Oshkosh and back with no temperature

problems at all despite very hot conditions on the way.



Cheers



Kingsley in Oz

ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Guest

Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 11:51 pm Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Hi guys,

I did the oil cooler move below the spinner for the Rotax 912s and it has been very successful.

I control the amount of oil cooling required in winter by putting aluminum tape over the cooler.

Works a treat! Peter Kemper was the original builder to do the modification.

Also looks very stylish.



Only I can say that!



Cheers,



Tim



Tim Ward

12 Waiwetu Street

Fendalton,

Christchurch,  8052

New Zealand.



ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz



Ph 64 3 3515166

Mob 0210640221

On 28/09/2011, at 11:28 AM, "Kingsley" <kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.au> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

> On my Classic Europa with 912UL, I am experiencing too high oil temps for

 comfort.

 

 Marcel,

 

 Ten years or so ago, there was an article in the Europa News (we don't get

 them now) about oil temp problems in Kim Prout's Classic in California.

 

 Kim and Ivan Shaw moved the oil cooler to just below the spinner after

 cutting a hole there to suit.  The article reported the mod was hugely

 successful following which they flew to Oshkosh and back with no temperature

 problems at all despite very hot conditions on the way.

 

 Cheers

 

 Kingsley in Oz

g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:26 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Attached is a picture of Peter Kember's Europa Classic.

Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours

Europa Club Mods Specialist

e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com

03090225L.jpg

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ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:16 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

For interest, looking at Peters aircraft I never made a 'mustang snout' type of arrangement when placing the oil cooler below the spinner. I used the same line as the lower cowl and set the cooler back. I will post a picture tomorrow. 



Cheers,



Tim



Tim Ward

12 Waiwetu Street

Fendalton,

Christchurch,  8052

New Zealand.



ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz



Ph 64 3 3515166

Mob 0210640221

On 28/09/2011, at 9:23 PM, "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Attached is a picture of Peter Kember's Europa Classic.

 

 

 Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours

 Europa Club Mods Specialist

 e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com 

 

 

 

 

 

 <03090225L.jpg>

zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:33 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Interesting location for the oil rad! 



I would not have expected the physical area inside the cowl underneath the prop to be large enough to house the oil rad. At first glance that seems to be a perfect location for it, also providing an easy routing of the oil hoses. I will keep this in mind as a 2nd option if my current approach doesn't work out. 



Tim: thanks in advance for posting pictures, I would love to see how you arranged this inside the cowl.



Can anyone please also provide answers to my original questions regarding rubber flanges, so that I can move forward with my current approach?



Much appreciated!

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:11 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Reading more about oil cooling I came across a thread mentioning a Laminova/Mocal oil to water heat exchanger. 



Anyone has one of those installed? If so, would you please care to share your experiences in respect to oil and coolant temps at high and low OAT?



How do I determine which version to use in case I wish to get rid of the oil-cooler altogether?

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 11:34 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Hi Marcel



This is an old topic and I have repeated these 

words many time:



I have had a Laminova since 2007 and +250 flight 

hours and I am completely happy w it.

I am not sure about the type /size I think it is 

the middle size (look at an attachment).

If I remember correct, during those days they had 

only one size or so.



It works well during all OAT conditions 

between -23C ... +32C which I have experienced so 

far.



When cold, the oil temp follows the water temp but 

a bit below and when hot, it follows the water 

temp but a bit over.

Always between the limits.



When very hot, I prefer moderate climbing speed 

(around 500 f/min  and 100 knots) and equal power 

settings to keep temps well below their limits.

During a full power cruise I have never temp 

problems at all.



When very cold (= -10C or colder), I tape off let 

us say 50% or more about the air-intake to the 

water cooler.

Please notice I have also a water thermostat to 

reach minimum temps more quick and to keep them 

well over the minimums also during long and speedy 

(+150 knots) iddle descendings (which I really 

love).



Also, I assume when only a water-cooler and no 

oil-cooler behind it, it is better for airstreams 

also and for water-cooling ability.



I do not know how it works in Classic with two 

water radiators? Maybe you try and let us know!



Hope this helps.

Cheers, Raimo Toivio





Europa XS Mono OH-XRT #417



Updated flight hours /landings:



37500 Lempaala

FINLAND



p +358-3-3753 777

f +358-3-3753 100



toivio(at)fly.to

www.rwm.fi



-----Alkuperäinen viesti----- 

From: zwakie

Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 9:11 PM

To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Sealing the water and 

oil coolers in a Classic




<mz(at)cariama.nl>



Reading more about oil cooling I came across a 

thread mentioning a Laminova/Mocal oil to water 

heat exchanger.



Anyone has one of those installed? If so, would 

you please care to share your experiences in 

respect to oil and coolant temps at high and low 

OAT?



How do I determine which version to use in case I 

wish to get rid of the oil-cooler altogether?



--------

Marcel

(Europa Classic Tri-Gear PH-MZW)





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zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 12:24 pm Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Thanks Raimo for your elaborate reply to my question and the pictures you sent along. Apologies for not having used the search-function.



Finding out about the oil-water exchanger along with your findings made me think that using an oil-water exchanger might be the best way to resolve my oil temp issue. 



Considering coolant and CHT temps always are 90-100 Celcius (regardless of OAT), this approach might bring all temps to the low end of the curve, but I guess if that happens the temps can easily be pushed up into the green zone by blanking off part of the water rads or by installing a thermostat in the water circuit...

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 3:00 pm Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

On 09/28/2011 08:11 PM, zwakie wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Reading more about oil cooling I came across a thread mentioning a

 Laminova/Mocal oil to water heat exchanger.



 Anyone has one of those installed?


	


Yes, I have one as my primary oil cooler.

I'm perfectly happy with it. It eliminates the need for a thermostat, as 

the oil warms up quickly by the coolant. Oil temp follows the coolant 

temp closely.

In my case, I can regulate the coolant temp perfectly with my servo 

controlled cowl flap.



I have some good news for you: I have a spare mocal left over. I started 

with a small one but it was too small for my 914, so I replaced it with 

a bigger one. The small one should work very well for your engine.



You are free to try it and/or make an offer. You only need to order the 

oil connectors for it as I re-used them for my new Laminova. I can point 

you to some silicone hose suppliers as well so you can plumb it in.



 	  Quote: 	
		   If so, would you please care to

 share your experiences in respect to oil and coolant temps at high

 and low OAT?


	


It doesn't really matter in my case as I can get exactly the temperature 

I wish regardless of OAT, speed, altitude or power setting.



Usually, the oil temp will become a bit (say 10C) higher than the 

coolant temp, but as I like to keep my coolant at the hot side (for 

economy/performance reasons, about 110C) I had the oil temp creeping up 

to 120C and found this just a bit too much. So I installed a very tiny 

oil/air cooler in series with the Laminova and that solved the problem.



 	  Quote: 	
		   How do I determine which version to use in case I wish to get rid of

 the oil-cooler altogether?


	


The size of my spare Mocal would be perfect for you.



Frans

tennant

Joined: 19 Apr 2011
Posts: 121

Posted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 10:57 pm Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Zwaki,



Before you make any big changes try putting some spacers between the bottom of the cowling and the fuselage to increase the gap for the air to exit the cowling.

The Europa was first designed without the firewall behind the engine. As such there was no restriction to the exit air. After the firewall was fitted the exit area was considerably reduced which reduces flow through the reds.



I found a several degree reduction in temperatures after increasing the exit area.



It is worth a try.



Barry

_________________
Barry Tennant
D-EHBT
At EDLM - Germany

zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:02 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

 	  tennant wrote: 	
		  try putting some spacers between the bottom of the cowling and the fuselage to increase the gap for the air to exit the cowling.

	


Hi Barry,



That is exactly what I tried first. It only gave me 3-4 degrees drop in oil temp, not nearly the drop I am looking for.



Thanks for reminding though.



Marcel

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:39 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

 	  frans(at)privatepilots.nl wrote: 	
		  Yes, I have one as my primary oil cooler. 	


I thought your oil cooler installed on the starboard footwell with its own inlet was your primary? Maybe I missed something...  



 	  frans(at)privatepilots.nl wrote: 	
		  I have some good news for you: I have a spare mocal left over. I started with a small one but it was too small for my 914, so I replaced it with a bigger one. The small one should work very well for your engine.



You are free to try it and/or make an offer. You only need to order the oil connectors for it as I re-used them for my new Laminova. 	
 

Great offer! If and when I take this approach, I definitely would like to test your spare mocal to see if its capacity suits my engine. 



I will contact you off-list when the time has come (I wouldn't be surprised if that will be shortly, the more I read about oil-water heat exchangers, the more I like them  ).



 	  frans(at)privatepilots.nl wrote: 	
		  I can point you to some silicone hose suppliers as well so you can plumb it in. 	


Yes please, can you mention some suppliers here on the list?

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 2:46 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

On 09/29/2011 10:39 AM, zwakie wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  > Yes, I have one as my primary oil cooler.



 I thought your oil cooler installed on the starboard footwell with its own inlet was your primary? Maybe I missed something... [Wink]


	


Yes, you missed that that was a temporary setup to keep us flying. Last 

spring I took it out and redesigned the entire cooling, to fix the 

cooling problems for once and for all, and to reduce cooling drag at the 

same time.



A heat exchanger for the oil eliminates yet another air entry and 

radiator drag, eliminates the need for an oil thermostat, and makes it 

possible to aerodynamically clean up the inside of the cowling.



I have now only three air inlets in the cowling: One for the coolant 

radiator, one 3 inch opening for the engine inlet and intercooler (with 

butterfly valve to close it during the cruise), and one 3 inch opening 

for cylinder cooling and aux oil rad. That's all. No gills, no frills, 

nothing.

All air, after having passed the radiators and cylinders is collected 

inside the cowling, and routed via the underside of the engine, taking 

the heat of sump, exhaust and turbo with it on its way out.

All openings are sealed off. The entire nose wheel area is also fully 

closed. There is (besides the exhaust ducting/augmentor) only one air 

outlet, equipped with a servo controlled cowl flap, and typically during 

cruise it is just 1cm (!) open. Compare that to the XS-cowling air exit, 

which despite its monstreous size appears to be still too small.



 	  Quote: 	
		   Great offer! If and when I take this approach, I definitely would like to test your spare mocal to see if its capacity suits my engine.


	


Well, it is not a spare actually as it is too small for the 914. It is 

just laying around until I find time to put it on eBay or so.



Frans

zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 2:51 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

 	  frans(at)privatepilots.nl wrote: 	
		  Yes, you missed that that was a temporary setup to keep us flying. 	


I indeed missed that. Thanks for the explanation of your changes since. 



Scouring the web for more information and reading your replies and those of others convinced me that having an oil-water heat exchanger is a very good and 'elegant' way to control fluid temps, especially if you are able to optimize airmass and -flow through the cowling. I have therefore decided to abandon the approach that I already started, and replace my oil rad with an oil-water heat exchanger instead. At a later stage I will evaluate the need for airmass/-flow optimization.



This brings me to preparing for this change:



What capacity exchanger do I need?

Could not find anything on the web that helps me make an educated assessment. 

--- Frans: I would like to test the one you have lying around. If it gives me sufficient cooling on the oil I'll gladly buy it from you. If not, I won't buy yours and go for a larger capacity one. Is that OK with you?



What type of hoses?

Since this modification requires purging both coolant and oil, I will take the opportunity to replace all coolant hoses (FYI: Skydrive carburetter heater system is installed on my engine). 



[EDIT: Correction below: in my original posting I had things mixed up, remarks for coolant hoses were listed under oil hoses, v.v. - now they are listed correctly]



COOLANT hoses: it's my understanding silicone is best:

--- Can silicone oil hose be routed fairly easy by 'bending' them, or will I need to order them pre-shaped to fit my plan?

--- Frans (and all): can you please point me to silicone hose suppliers?



OIL hoses:

--- I'm inclined to stick with the hoses recommended by Europa, unless others have great experience with alternatives. All suggestions are appreciated!

--- Where can I buy these?



Thanks all for having me brought this far, hopefully you are not getting bored with my bombardment of questions and are still willing to bring me to the next step 



Marcel



---



Finally, anyone care to comment on these thoughts:

 	  Quote: 	
		  I can see only one downside of having a heat exchanger: by integrating the two cooling circuits, in the scenario of a failing hose anywhere in the combined cooling systems, engine temps would increase much faster as opposed to having two separate cooling cooling circuits. 

Acting upon such a failure would be much more time-critical, as I see it you only have a single option if such happens: shut the engine immediately, do a forced landing and hope that you identified the issue quick enough to save your engine.

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 6:14 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

On 09/30/2011 12:51 PM, zwakie wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   What capacity exchanger do I need?


	


The smallest one should suffice. Some other people have been flying it 

with a 912S. It is almost ok for a 914 but a little too marginal, mainly 

due to the extra cooling demand of the turbo oil lines.



 	  Quote: 	
		   Could not find anything on the web that helps me make an educated assessment.


	


There are several graphs on the sites which sell the Laminova. The Rotax 

flows 60 Liter coolant per minute, oil is (if I remember correctly for 

the 912) about 10 Liters per minute. Fill in the appropriate input 

temperatures and you will get the oil output temperature.



 	  Quote: 	
		   --- Frans: I would like to test the one you have lying around. If it gives me sufficient cooling on the oil I'll gladly buy it from you. If not, I won't buy yours and go for a larger capacity one. Is that OK with you?


	


That's ok. You only need to buy the oil connectors for it. And that 

brings up the following point:



 	  Quote: 	
		   OIL hoses: it's my understanding silicone is best:


	


No, not for oil. Oil dissolves silicone.



I used this:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3490



An alternative is:

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=3480



These hoses are lightweight, extremely reliable, will not abrade, are 

able to cope with high temperatures, and resistant to all kind of 

chemicals. And yes, these hoses are very flexible and can be routed 

exactly as you wish.



Note: You will NEED the special hoses connectors for it. You can not use 

barbed fittings with hose clamps.



It will cost you some money but hey it is an airplane and your life 

depends on it.



 	  Quote: 	
		   --- Frans (and all): can you please point me to silicone hose suppliers?


	


www.sfsperformance.co.uk

They can make almost anything special, but they are hard to do business 

with,they need constant chasing. Expect to spend a dozen emails and 

phone calls before they deliver what you asked (and payed) for.



 	  Quote: 	
		   COOLANT hoses:

 --- I'm inclined to stick with the hoses recommended by Europa, unless others have great experience with alternatives. All suggestions are appreciated!


	


The hoses from Europa are nothing special, just regular rubber hoses. 

Silicone hoses are better and do not age.



Frans

g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 7:59 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Europa are now offering the hoses developed by  Stefan Ingemarsson SE-XRX

Contact Stefan for details

E-Mail : ingemarsson.s(at)telia.com (ingemarsson.s(at)telia.com) Tel/Fax : +46 (0)511 80160, Mobile : +46 (0)70 3780160

To give you an idea of costs

 

 

Cost in Euros at 2007 prices

 

 

 

 

 

Hose Description

A/C Type

No

/Cost 

Classic 

XS

Straight 1Meter fore engine(to cut)

C/XS

2

40

80

80

Bend, fore cylinder three top.

C/XS

1

30

30

30

Ex. bottle to radiator

XS

1

42

0

42

Pump to radiator

XS

1

44

0

44

Portside to radiator

C

1

60

60

0

Starboard to Radiator

C

1

51

51

0

Between radiators

C

1

19

19

0

Self compensating clamps, engine

C/XS

16

2.5

40

40

Delivery Europe 1-5Kg

 

1

35

35

35

 

 

 

 

315

271

 

[img]cid:image003.jpg(at)01CC7F91.EA017010[/img]

 

 

Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours

Europa Club Mods Specialist

e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com

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g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 9:41 am Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

Europa are now offering the hoses developed by  Stefan Ingemarsson SE-XRX



See picture attached.  Contact Stefan for details



E-Mail : ingemarsson.s(at)telia.com Tel/Fax : +46 (0)511 80160, Mobile : +46

(0)70 3780160

To give you an idea of costs



Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 300hours

Europa Club Mods Specialist

e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com

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zwakie

Joined: 03 Aug 2009
Posts: 157

Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:48 am Post subject: Re: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

I have been to the airport today, took of both cowls and inspected all hosing. All hoses are in perfect shape, so no need to replace them at this stage, I'm sticking with current hoses.



It seems that when the oil rad is removed, I will have about sufficient room behind the port coolant rad to put the oil-coolant heat exchanger and route the oil and water hoses without too tight a radius.



My question: will I have an issue at that relative upward position, won't the oil siphon out there? Or in other words, is it ok to have the echanger positioned above the oil level in the tank?

_________________
Marcel Zwakenberg
Europa XS TG || 912ULS || PH-SBR

frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 11:58 pm Post subject: Sealing the water and oil coolers in a Classic

On 10/01/2011 06:48 PM, zwakie wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   I have been to the airport today, took of both cowls and inspected

 all hosing. All hoses are in perfect shape, so no need to replace

 them at this stage, I'm sticking with current hoses.


	


You are aware that it is mandatory to replace all rubber hoses every 

five year, regardless of condition? Have you checked when it was last done?



 	  Quote: 	
		   It seems that when the oil rad is removed, I will have about

 sufficient room behind the port coolant rad to put the oil-ollant

 heat exchanger and route the oil and water hoses without to tight a

 radius.


	


Best place is behind the engine. You should try to avoid creating "high 

spots" in the coolant lines where air or vapour can collect.



 	  Quote: 	
		   My question: will I have an issue at that relative upward position,

 won't the oil siphon out there?


	


Keep routing as simple as possible and keep it as low as possible. Oil 

won't siphon out, unless there is the tiniest air leak somewhere in the 

system. A few months without flying and you have air in the oil system, 

if the air reaches the oil pump you will suddenly loose all your oil 

pressure.



Frans

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