Matronics Email Lists :: View topic

Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists

Get Email Distribution Too! FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register

Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in

Service report
Goto page 1, 2 Next

Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List

View previous topic :: View next topic

Author Message

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:00 pm Post subject: Service report

It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane. I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge caked inside the crank.   This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within. 



I cycle my prop almost at every flight. 



I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the sludge. No amount of thinner  would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry and came off powdery like.  



 I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the good time to clean the crank. 



It would be nice to know other people experiences. 



Do not archive. 



Rob Kermanj 

Sent from my iPad

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 4:20 pm Post subject: Service report

I've cleaned mine at least a couple times now.  It is similar to proseal as you say.  My guess is that there may be metal there but a lot of it could be blow-by lead from the fuel that collects in the oil too.  I'd say it cakes on to about 1/4" thick or so.

Tim



On Oct 15, 2011, at 7:02 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10(at)gmail.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 It has been 360 hrs and four years since my prop was off the plane. I had to replace my alt belt and was shocked by the amount of sludge caked inside the crank.   This the stuff that will corrode the crank from within. 

 

 I cycle my prop almost at every flight. 

 

 I had to build a scraper from a piece of alumn strap to scrape the sludge. No amount of thinner  would clean it. The stuff was grey (i assume metal) and most of it was the consistency of proseal. Some was dry and came off powdery like.  

 

 I am thinking that two years and couple hundred hours might be the good time to clean the crank. 

 

 It would be nice to know other people experiences. 

 

 Do not archive. 

 

 Rob Kermanj 

 Sent from my iPad

n801bh(at)netzero.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2011 5:54 pm Post subject: Service report

I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead... 

do not archive

Ben Haas

N801BH

www.haaspowerair.com



--------

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:16 am Post subject: Re: Service report

Please describe in detail the location that you are describing.

Is this behind the prop, outside the case of the engine?

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 8:43 am Post subject: Service report

Inside the crankshaft bore and prop hub that mates to that area.

Tim



On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:16 AM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Please describe in detail the location that you are describing.

 Is this behind the prop, outside the case of the engine?

 

 --------

 See you OSH '12

 Q/B - flying 2 yrs.

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355203#355203

dave.saylor.aircrafters(a
Guest

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 9:00 am Post subject: Service report

I think if you send in a small sample to an oil analysis lab they could tell you exactly what it is.

Dave Saylor

AirCrafters

140 Aviation Way

Watsonville, CA 95076

831-722-9141 Shop

831-750-0284 Cell

   



On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:

[quote]  --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 

 Inside the crankshaft bore and prop hub that mates to that area.

 Tim

 

 

 

 On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:16 AM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net> wrote:

 

 > --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net>

 >

 > Please describe in detail the location that you are describing.

 > Is this behind the prop, outside the case of the engine?

 >

 > --------

 > See you OSH '12

 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs.

 >

 >

 >

 >

 > Read this topic online here:

 >

 > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355203#355203

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 

 ===========

 " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 e -

  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 

 [b]

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 10:13 am Post subject: Service report

Did not think about that. It was bad stuff!



Sent from my iPhone



On Oct 16, 2011, at 12:57 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com (dave.saylor.aircrafters(at)gmail.com)> wrote:



[quote]I think if you send in a small sample to an oil analysis lab they could tell you exactly what it is.

Dave Saylor

AirCrafters

140 Aviation Way

Watsonville, CA 95076

831-722-9141 Shop

831-750-0284 Cell

   



On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 9:40 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		    --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 

 Inside the crankshaft bore and prop hub that mates to that area.

 Tim

 

 

 

 On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:16 AM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net (Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net)> wrote:

 

 > --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike" <Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net (Mikeabel(at)Pacbell.net)>

 >

 > Please describe in detail the location that you are describing.

 > Is this behind the prop, outside the case of the engine?

 >

 > --------

 > See you OSH '12

 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs.

 >

 >

 >

 >

 > Read this topic online here:

 >

 > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=355203#355203

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 

 ===========

 " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 e -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 

 

	


[b]

rv10pro(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 2:49 pm Post subject: Service report

Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste with slight green cast - its sounds like the  lead that is in 100LL avgas.  It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines. Because of the relative weight it settles out.  On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)> wrote:[quote] 

I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead... 

do not archive

Ben Haas

N801BH

www.haaspowerair.com



--------

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 5:12 pm Post subject: Service report

No green cast. Just plane grey. Just as if you mixed proseal and did not put much harder in the mix. 



Rob Kermanj 

Sent from my iPad



On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com (rv10pro(at)gmail.com)> wrote:



[quote]

Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste with slight green cast - its sounds like the  lead that is in 100LL avgas.  It is particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines. Because of the relative weight it settles out.  On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)" <n801bh(at)netzero.com (n801bh(at)netzero.com)> wrote:[quote] 

I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead... 

do not archive

Ben Haas

N801BH

www.haaspowerair.com



--------

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2011 7:12 pm Post subject: Service report

The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the

problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it

couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much

better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell

multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips

XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all

single weight oils are full mineral oil.

The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the

oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,

mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.

On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> wrote:

[quote] Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste with

 slight green cast - its sounds like the  lead that is in 100LL avgas.  It is

 particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines. Because of the

 relative weight it settles out.

 On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> wrote:

>

> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...

>

> do not archive

> Ben Haas

> N801BH

> www.haaspowerair.com

>

> --------

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 3:44 am Post subject: Service report

I am using Phillips XC, muli grade and changing oil around 25 hrs. 

Based on an EAA article comparing oil types, I will be switching to Aeroshell 100 for the next couple of 100 hrs to see if it makes a difference. 

Rob Kermanj

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 16, 2011, at 11:09 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2(at)gmail.com> wrote:

[quote] 

 The question would be what oil is being used. This was one of the

 problems with the Mobil One aviation oil, being pure synthetic...it

 couldn't hold lead salts and sludge in suspension. Mineral oil is much

 better for holding contaminants in suspension. IIRC Aeroshell

 multi-grade has the most synthetic with a bit less in Exxon. Phillips

 XC is all mineral oil if you need a multi-grade, and I believe all

 single weight oils are full mineral oil.

 The richer a mixture run, the colder temps and condensation in the

 oil, the more sludge, other things being equal. Frequent oil changes,

 mineral AD oil is your friend for avoiding sludge.

 On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 3:46 PM, John Cox <rv10pro(at)gmail.com> wrote:

> Kelly would be a better confirmation but if it was a heavy gray paste with

> slight green cast - its sounds like the  lead that is in 100LL avgas.  It is

> particularly severe in Rotax tight tolerance engines. Because of the

> relative weight it settles out.

> 

> On Oct 15, 2011 6:58 PM, "n801bh(at)netzero.com" <n801bh(at)netzero.com> wrote:

>> 

>> I am betting it was 100% metal...... As in lead...

>> 

>> do not archive

>> 

>> 

>> Ben Haas

>> N801BH

>> www.haaspowerair.com

>> 

>> --------

robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 8:21 am Post subject: Service report

With the disclaimer that I don't know nothing about nothing. A couple of engine builders I greatly respect both told me they would choose Aeroshell over Phillips 100% of the time. Of course changing oil every 25 hours is a way to really keep your oil performing as it is intended. I use to change every 25 hours but have transitioned closer to every 40 hours. Trying to strike a balance between 25 and 50 hour oil chances.



Robin  



--

rv10flyer(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:12 am Post subject: Service report

Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use 

XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different 

opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for 

the oils that don't have corrosion protection.

Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear 

about it, here is the webinar on the topic. 

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001

--

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:24 am Post subject: Service report

RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear

issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C

during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a

dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much

oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the

crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to

Phillips shortly.



On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> wrote:

[quote] 



 Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use

 XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different

 opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for

 the oils that don't have corrosion protection.

 Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear

 about it, here is the webinar on the topic.

 http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001

 --

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

pitts_pilot(at)bellsouth.
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:41 am Post subject: Service report

I use Aeroshell W100.  Have all my 38 years of aircraft ownership.  No 

matter what oil you choose, the best thing you can do for your engine 

longevity is to use it often, and try to get an hour or longer for a 

'short flight'.

IMHO, if all you have is a screen, change the oil and clean the screen 

every 25 hours and if a filter every 50.

As for the sludge in the crank bore, I find that odd.  Almost all of my 

flight hours are behind fixed pitch props, so my question is ..... maybe 

running the prop through it's pitch range a couple of times prior to 

shutdown would flush the bore with hot oil.  I have a lot to learn about 

constant speed operation!!!

Linn

On 10/17/2011 1:22 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:

[quote] 

 RAM engines does a lot of the big Continentals, that have more wear

 issues on the cylinder choke, and they require use of Phillips X-C

 during warranty period. Aviation Consumer suggests Phillips X-C with a

 dose of CamGuard for Lycomings, because the cam doesn't get as much

 oil being above the crank, where in Continentals it is below the

 crank. I've been using the Exxon Elite, but will probably shift to

 Phillips shortly.

 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Pascal<rv10flyer(at)verizon.net>  wrote:

> 

>

> Funny thing is that Rob and I were both told by the engine builder to use

> XC20-50 for the life of the engine. Seems there are a whole lot of different

> opinions. In the end just keep away or understand the need for additives for

> the oils that don't have corrosion protection.

> Jan-Feb 2011 articles on oil, but if you have the time and want to hear

> about it, here is the webinar on the topic.

> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1149666747001

> --

rv10flyer(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 10:09 am Post subject: Service report

W100 is a single grade which is fine for warmer temps

W80 is a single grade which is fine for cooler temps

XC-20-50 is multi-grade for cooler temps



Savvy in EAA suggested W100 PLUS for the summer and for warmer climates year 

round

XC-20-50 for colder areas in the Fall-Spring times. Phillips is a Mineral so 

perfect for run-in as well

--

flysrv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 11:23 am Post subject: Service report

I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has had the same experience. 



I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results.   Considering this a research opportunity. 



I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when using fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no sludge after a few hundred hours. 



Do not archive. 



Rob Kermanj

Sent from my iPhone



On Oct 17, 2011, at 2:06 PM, "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)verizon.net> wrote:



[quote] 

 

 W100 is a single grade which is fine for warmer temps

 W80 is a single grade which is fine for cooler temps

 XC-20-50 is multi-grade for cooler temps

 

 Savvy in EAA suggested W100 PLUS for the summer and for warmer climates year round

 XC-20-50 for colder areas in the Fall-Spring times. Phillips is a Mineral so perfect for run-in as well

 

 

 --

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 12:33 pm Post subject: Service report

Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...



I've used both X/C 20-50 and am presently using Exxon Elite,

and basically I've found the same issue when using both of them.

I know as Kelly says, the mineral oil can suspend some things

better than the semi synthetics, so I'm sure that could have

some effect, but this isn't really all that much like

sludge...it's more like a deposit of lead.  I could

save some next time I look, but, in order to see it you have

to pull your prop.  With that in mind, my guess is that

many many people have this happening but most just don't know

it because they haven't had the opportunity to pull their

prop to replace a belt or anything like that.



It could be from colder weather operation, it could be

something maybe from operating at higher altitudes.

Who knows.  I did take note of it, but didn't really

think of it as something completely unusual.  It looks

a bit like grey modeling clay.  It came out real easy

for me.  It collects in the prop hub, just around that

o-ring area where it meets the crankshaft.



I just got off the phone with Hartzell to get their take

on it. I'm not worried about it but I find it strange

that when people worry about things, they don't call the

obvious sources first...and get the vendor answer.  So

I did.  He said that they've seen that before and it's

basically engine sludge.  He didn't want to venture a

guess as to what it's comprised of, but personally I

really would think it could easily be lead byproducts

from piston blowby that would just naturally occur.



When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,

he said "that's a lot of hours".  So apparently to them,

I've got quite a bit of time on the prop.  He said

TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year

he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that

since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to

do that, but could consider it.  He said if I wanted

to, I could have the prop flushed.  Personally I'm

really not that worried.  The prop functions fine,

and the buildup seems to be limited to just that

one area.  I don't remember super well (heck,it's

only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I

think maybe that area of the hub is larger in

diameter and gives an area to collect easily.  The

centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect

there.  So I just clean it out, and go on my merry

way.  Looking into the prop it doesn't look as

bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.



So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts

every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so

just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS

so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,

and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years

and give it an inspection.  Maybe you'll see something

to clean out, maybe you won't.



On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer

is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion

protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to

cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good

oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion

protection.  I think this is reasonable advice. Most

planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember

i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues.  I myself

wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because

I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid

the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run

camguard in the engine.  I've also spent a few hundred

hours with X/C 20-50.  My old plane I used Aeroshell.

So I've used them all.  If it weren't for the fact that

I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider

running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never

drop the camguard.



Tim

On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that Tim has had the same experience.



 I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different results.   Considering this a research opportunity.



 I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion when using fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank and found no sludge after a few hundred hours.



 Do not archive.



 Rob Kermanj

 Sent from my iPhone

dmaib@me.com

Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Service report

I had my MT propeller off during the summer of 2010 when I was replacing my air conditioner compressor and alternator mounts. I had MT repaint the prop while it was off. MT went through the prop and replaced seals and checked everything while they had it. There was sludge in my crank (just under 300 hours at that time) and MT was unconcerned, as was the A&P next door to me that rebuilds quite a few engines. I cleaned it out and went on my way. My engine overhauler recommended W100 Plus for a warm climate airplane and that is what I have been using since shortly after finishing phase 1. Prior to that I was using W100 and adding camguard.

_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL

Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2011 3:31 pm Post subject: Service report

Keep in mind that NO one flying under Part 91 pays any attention to 

Hartzell's TBO. Only Part 135 may have to comply, depending on 

individual Ops specs. What is recommended is that you consider some 

where between 6 and 10 years to have a prop shop tear down, inspect and 

repair as necessary. Do NOT let them overhaul unless your blades are 

significantly nicked or eroded, because an overhaul requires removal of 

metal from the blades, whether they need it or not, to ensure the blade 

meets the overhaul profile. The only consideration is how often your 

prop is exposed to wet/icy/snowy weather, as opposed to being in a 

hangar. The reason to tear down is to ensure no corrosion is happening 

and get fresh seals and lube. Cost is less than 1/2 the price of overhaul.

On 10/17/2011 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 Just to keep the waters as muddy as possible...

 I

 When I told him that I had 800 hours since early 2006,

 he said "that's a lot of hours".  So apparently to them,

 I've got quite a bit of time on the prop.  He said

 TBO is 6 years or 2400 hours, so sometime next year

 he says I should consider an overhaul...and noted that

 since I'm an experimental that I'm not regulated to

 do that, but could consider it.  He said if I wanted

 to, I could have the prop flushed.  Personally I'm

 really not that worried.  The prop functions fine,

 and the buildup seems to be limited to just that

 one area.  I don't remember super well (heck,it's

 only been a month, how old am I getting?!) but I

 think maybe that area of the hub is larger in

 diameter and gives an area to collect easily.  The

 centrifugal force would tend to get gunk to collect

 there.  So I just clean it out, and go on my merry

 way.  Looking into the prop it doesn't look as

 bad at all, nor into the crank...just that area.

 So anyway, you should probably all be replacing belts

 every 5 years and things of that nature anyway, so

 just take the time to BUY A COUPLE EXTRA PROP O-RINGS

 so you can change them EVERY time you pull the prop,

 and then pull your prop at annual maybe ever 3-5 years

 and give it an inspection.  Maybe you'll see something

 to clean out, maybe you won't.

 On the topic of oil, the general take of Aviation Consumer

 is that Exxon Elite has slightly better corrosion

 protection but their recommendation for oil (partly due to

 cost) is Philips X/C 20-50 to save money and for good

 oil, and then a bottle of camguard for added corrosion

 protection.  I think this is reasonable advice. Most

 planes in my area have run X/C 20-50 for years (remember

 i'm in a colder area) and have had no issues.  I myself

 wanted the best corrosion protection I can have, because

 I don't fly as often in the colder months, so I paid

 the upcharge for Exxon Elite for oil and I STILL run

 camguard in the engine.  I've also spent a few hundred

 hours with X/C 20-50.  My old plane I used Aeroshell.

 So I've used them all.  If it weren't for the fact that

 I already own 6 or 8 cases of elite, I'd consider

 running Philips x/c 20-50 again, but I'd never

 drop the camguard.

 Tim

 On 10/17/2011 2:20 PM, Rob Kermanj wrote:

> 

>

> I reported my experience not knowing if it was normal. It seems that 

> Tim has had the same experience.

>

> I will switch oil brand to see if another oil gives different 

> results.   Considering this a research opportunity.

>

> I remember that there was an AD to inspect hollow crank for corrosion 

> when using fixed pitched prop. I remember that I checked my rv6 crank 

> and found no sludge after a few hundred hours.

>

> Do not archive.

>

> Rob Kermanj

> Sent from my iPhone

>

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

Display posts from previous:

	Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> RV10-List	All times are GMT - 8 Hours Goto page 1, 2 Next
Page 1 of 2

Jump to:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum