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ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 4:04 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi all,
Just enquiring if anyone has built the glider wings for a monowheel "classic" ?
Thinking of doing a glider licence with my son and maybe build the glider wings for
ZK-TIM.
Any information and views would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
Ph 64 3 3515166
Mob 0210640221
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jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.a Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 4:27 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Tim
Watching with some interest
JR (Bob) Gowing Kit 327 in Oz
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flyingphil2
Joined: 04 Dec 2009 Posts: 117
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Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:06 am Post subject: Re: Motor glider Wings |
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That's an interesting question. Has the Europa motor glider ever been flown by any gliding pundits and reviewed? I've not seen any.
Also, I seem to remember John or Roger at Europa telling me that that the forward pin on the Classic wing would need moving (to the XS position????) in order to take the glider wing. I could be wrong but check that with the people that know. I'm sure Roger said there was a procedure in progress for it.
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richard.churchill-coleman Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:25 am Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Phil
There is a review in Today's Pilot, Issue 21, July 2002 - it sits in the
smallest room of my house for regular perusal and motivational purposes -
sadly, the motivation effect is somewhat negated by the glacial speed of the
factory in resolving the last few issues with the Motor Glider certification
in the UK!
Richard C-C
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iancook_1(at)hotmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:24 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi Guys,
Just to let you know we only have to do one more spinning
sortie to complete the UK Motor Glider Flight Test Programme. There will of
course be a further delay while all the data is analysed by the LAA but it
should all be finished before the end of the year.
Regards
Ian Cook
G-CBHI
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peterz(at)zutrasoft.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:56 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi Ian,
As it sounds as though there have already been in tests done, how does it it spin and recover?
Any surprises?
Cheers and thx,
Pete
A239 (both wings)
On Oct 25, 2011, at 6:21 PM, Ian Cook <iancook_1(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
[quote]
Hi Guys,
Just to let you know we only have to do one more spinning
sortie to complete the UK Motor Glider Flight Test Programme. There will of
course be a further delay while all the data is analysed by the LAA but it
should all be finished before the end of the year.
Regards
Ian Cook
G-CBHI
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iancook_1(at)hotmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 10:45 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi Pete,
The flying aspects of the Forward and Mid C of G spin cases are
complete with some analysis work to be done before going onto the Aft C of G
case. From the quick review of data to date, all OK so far with NO
unexpected results.
Ian
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neveyre(at)aol.co.uk Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:01 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi,
The XS lift pins are [ from memory ] 1/2'' lower than the Classic.
Remove the pins with heat and Mole grips [ with a cloth wrap if you are going to re use the pins].Mask the root rib with thick card and alloy foil, get the pin hot quick, and quench the root rib with a wet towel ASAP.
Grind the Bid off the face of the alloy plate stack with a B&D Fingerfile, keep grinding on the alloy to get heat into the plate, ping it off with a chisel. Keep going on the next two lots of Bid and plates.
Feather and scuff sand the glass lay up on the root rib.
Replace 3 new plates as per Manual.[XS] Drill / Tap for the pins as per Manual.
Fuselage;
Cut away the vertical stiffener [ foam / glass ] inside the cockpit, behind the lift socket.
Unbolt the lift socket from the fuselage, sweat off with heat.
The ''neat'' way now is to grind through the glass lay ups on the inside to expose the alloy plate imbedded in the fuselage, and with the fingerfile sander, get heat into the alloy and dig that out, then replace the alloy / glass........ easy way is to fill the three holes with flox, a 4 Bid patch over the original plate, another plate , 4 Bid over the top of the plate, refer to Manual for the original instruction, usual deal regarding scuff sanding / flox etc....
Fitting the socket to the fuselage is as per Manual, but it is a lot easier as with the drag pins engaged, and the spar pins in, there is no incedence setting to do.
Replace the foam core that was removed, repair the stiffener skin, overlapping at least 2'' onto the original.
Sounds drastic, but not as bad as you might think.
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frans(at)privatepilots.nl Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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On 10/27/2011 11:58 PM, Neville Eyre wrote:
Quote: | The XS lift pins are [ from memory ] 1/2'' lower than the Classic.
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When I was building my Europa I understood that it is possible to have
both sets of wings and swap them as desired, and I anticipated for doing
that in the future.
Is this still possible? From your description it looks like you have to
relocate the lift sockets???? So you can't have both sets of wings and
interchange them?
Frans
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neveyre(at)aol.co.uk Guest
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Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 3:00 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hi Frans,
Whichever wing that is fitted second[ MG or short] has to be retro fitted to have the same pin positions as the first wing.[ using the drilling bushes I devised back then].
The original position of the forward Lift Pin on the Classic wing is too high to stay within
the Airfoil Section of the MG Wing..... if you have XS wings you will not need to change the lift or drag socket positions, if you have Classic wings, the front pins and sockets will need to be lowered THEN you custom fit the pins into the MG wings to suit EXACTLY where the sockets are in YOUR particular fuselage.
Cheers,
Nev.
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christoph.both(at)acadiau Guest
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Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:57 am Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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Hello,
Having classic wings I was advised then to set the socket and classic forward wing lift pin exactly 12 mm lower than the original manual specifies. I just managed to do so before drilling the holes!
Cheers,
Christoph Both
#223 Classic (almost completed)
Nova Scotia, Canada
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Neville Eyre
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 6:58 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re: Motor glider Wings
Hi,
The XS lift pins are [ from memory ] 1/2'' lower than the Classic.
Remove the pins with heat and Mole grips [ with a cloth wrap if you are going to re use the pins].Mask the root rib with thick card and alloy foil, get the pin hot quick, and quench the root rib with a wet towel ASAP.
Grind the Bid off the face of the alloy plate stack with a B&D Fingerfile, keep grinding on the alloy to get heat into the plate, ping it off with a chisel. Keep going on the next two lots of Bid and plates.
Feather and scuff sand the glass lay up on the root rib.
Replace 3 new plates as per Manual.[XS] Drill / Tap for the pins as per Manual.
Fuselage;
Cut away the vertical stiffener [ foam / glass ] inside the cockpit, behind the lift socket.
Unbolt the lift socket from the fuselage, sweat off with heat.
The ''neat'' way now is to grind through the glass lay ups on the inside to expose the alloy plate imbedded in the fuselage, and with the fingerfile sander, get heat into the alloy and dig that out, then replace the alloy / glass........ easy way is to fill the three holes with flox, a 4 Bid patch over the original plate, another plate , 4 Bid over the top of the plate, refer to Manual for the original instruction, usual deal regarding scuff sanding / flox etc....
Fitting the socket to the fuselage is as per Manual, but it is a lot easier as with the drag pins engaged, and the spar pins in, there is no incedence setting to do.
Replace the foam core that was removed, repair the stiffener skin, overlapping at least 2'' onto the original.
Sounds drastic, but not as bad as you might think.
--
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 9:21 am Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Frans,
Allowances have been made and the new socket lines up with the old. New pins for the short wings are necessary. Spar cup concerns are not a problem. I'll do a group email and show the "How I did it" drawings.
Regards,
Bud
[quote] ---
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budyerly(at)msn.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 2:38 pm Post subject: Motor glider Wings |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Frans and others, Attached above is a drawing of how to install a wing rigging alignment device to replace the spar cups. It just attaches to the back of the fuselage.
Here is an excerpt from an email I sent to another Classic Owner (mono wheel) from my tech support file from a while ago:
There are a couple of things to look at with adapting the MG Wings to the Classic.
First, The Classic has the wing lift points set by the owner. Measurements vary somewhat from plane to plane as we have differences in builder abilities. The leading edge of the glider wing is narrow and the molded in attach point is smaller so the forward and aft sockets may not line up acceptably with the glider wing lift pin attach points.
Second, the fuselage must have Mod 52 to structurally take the stress of the motor glider wing loads. (If the Classic wings do not have Mod 74 then that must be done also for your own safety.) Your task is easier if the Mod 52 is not done. If the mod 52 is in, just try the wing rig first and see if the attach points will align, see below.
Third, should the glider wing fore or aft attachment points not line up with the glider wing, don't fret:
I have found it very easy to just move the attach points of the Classic fuselage to the glider wing position and simply remove and replace the pins in the Classic wing. The reason it is easier, as it seems to mean changing 8 hard points, is that it is technically easy, it will make rigging and de-rigging of the plane a snap and assure structural strength. The Classic wing is very easy to remove the pin attach points, and frankly I replace the aluminum one inch strips with two inch strips making a stiffer attach point as in the XS model. The socket attachments are quick to change also. Just unbolt and gently heat and remove, then grind the glass down. I pull out the aluminum wing root plates and replace them, as it only takes a few minutes with a dust mask and a grinder to remove. Total time with a die grinder and 40 grit paper is about 2 hours to remove the wing attachments and 2 hours to completely replace the aluminum plates with all the parts made up and on hand. It takes me 8 hours to remove the fuselage sockets and the glass and wood spacers on the fuselage side and replace them to new. Like I said, I remove the aluminum plates imbedded in the fuselage if the holes are just too far off. Hopefully you don't have to. If I have to, I grind away at the skin over the aluminum plates in the side after the glass is removed and allowing the now warm metal from grinding to detach from the inside skin, or by using a bit of heat from a soldering gun and I apply a prying force to the edge of the plate. I make another aluminum plate and install. 8-12 hours to remove and replace plus cure time. So a couple of days and you have a pristine fuselage side ready for a perfect alignment of both wings.
This is not a daunting task for me, but I am more familiar than the average guy. If your original builder did a precise job of aligning the pins on the Classic, you may have no problem or only a problem with aligning the front or the rear glider lift pin. I have found one of them to be just a bit high leaving the upper skin very close to the pin attach point with the glider wing perfectly aligned. We just did a Classic and I am uncomfortably close to the top of the attachment area on the rear pin support, instead of centered in the pin area. If it were my plane I would have centered the pins and moved the fuselage sockets, but I tend to prefer to shoot for the optimum, and my clients are wanting the quick solution.
Don't let a bit of glass work over a few days or a week keep you from having the joy of a soaring airplane. I can't tell you how enjoyable the motor glider is. I hope you saw my article in the Europa flyer on cross country in the MG. If not send me an email and I will send a .pdf copy. The mono with motor glider wing is carrying a hundred pounds of extra wing weight so make sure your rubber block is new as your normal touchdowns will need to absorb the extra mass.
[quote] ---
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