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egp8111
Joined: 25 Mar 2010
Posts: 49
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 Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 6:50 am Post subject: door warp |
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My mono wheel has been sitting up for an extended period in a warm climate and the top rear corners of the doors have warped up slightly from where the gas struts pushed on them. (orginal strut position). Anyone have any suggestions on how I might get the corners back down to the orginal shape ?
thanks
Skip
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neveyre(at)aol.co.uk
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 12:57 pm Post subject: door warp |
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Hi Skip,
Weights [ shot or sand bag] on the door corners will in time recover the doors to original shape, I have also used a luggage strap around the fuselage with local wood [ 3'' long 1'' x 2''] intensifiers to do the same job.
Taking the gas struts off will speed up the recovery, but take care if you have the plastic ball joint sockets as they can only be sprung off a few times before they come too loose.
Leave the plane out in the sun, let it come back slowly, could take weeks !
Cheers,
Nev.
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max8992
Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142
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| Posted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 11:49 pm Post subject: door warp |
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Hi Skip,
I think that the elevation of the corners of the doors comes from the original struts positioning. Just applying the mod and change the way the struts push on the doors when closed will solve for a large part. You can effectively accelerate the process by placing heavy weights, but this will be efficient on long term only if you apply the mod. Few hours of job during winter’s bad MTO J
Cheers,
Max Cointe
F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560
912ULS Airmaster 400 hours
De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de Neville Eyre
Envoyé : jeudi 27 octobre 2011 22:53
À : europa-list(at)matronics.com
Objet : Re: door warp
Hi Skip,
Weights [ shot or sand bag] on the door corners will in time recover the doors to original shape, I have also used a luggage strap around the fuselage with local wood [ 3'' long 1'' x 2''] intensifiers to do the same job.
Taking the gas struts off will speed up the recovery, but take care if you have the plastic ball joint sockets as they can only be sprung off a few times before they come too loose.
Leave the plane out in the sun, let it come back slowly, could take weeks !
Cheers,
Nev.
--
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Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH |
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Remi Guerner
Joined: 14 Dec 2010
Posts: 284
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| Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 3:53 am Post subject: Re: door warp |
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Hi Skip,
I agree with Max: the key is to do the strut repositioning mod first.
In my case the rear corners came back on their own to their original flush position a few months after I performed the mod.
Regards
Remi Guerner
F-PGKL
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bill mcclellan
Joined: 28 Jan 2010
Posts: 43
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| Posted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 6:25 am Post subject: door warp |
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There is a mod I believe first conceived by Ted Gladstone and Justin Kennedy. Kingsley Hurst adapted it further and I took Kingsley's method and modified it for my installation. The bracket hinge system removes essentially all load the strut puts on the door and frame, whether the original or subsequent door strut mod is used. Attached is a picture of the Gladstone door hinge.
Bill McClellan
A164 XS
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 12:24 am Post subject: door warp |
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Bikk
imho this is the best way to do it. As you say, there is no l;oad on the door or the fuselage. All loads are absorbed by the strut linkage.
Very clever but a lot of work. Be nice if someone produced the parts. how about it Justin Kennedy?
Graham
From: William McClellan <wilwood(at)earthlink.net>
To: "Europa-List(at)matronics.com" <Europa-List(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, 28 October, 2011 15:21:25
Subject: RE: door warp
There is a mod I believe first conceived by Ted Gladstone and Justin Kennedy. Kingsley Hurst adapted it further and I took Kingsley's method and modified it for my installation. The bracket hinge system removes essentially all load the strut puts on the door and frame, whether the original or subsequent door strut mod is used. Attached is a picture of the Gladstone door hinge.
Bill McClellan
A164 XS
[quote][b]
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 10:04 am Post subject: door warp |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Please refer to www.customflightcreations.com and select accessories and tips. The information on alternate Mod 66 on the website is years old and I have preferred doing the installation using this method over the Mod 66 in the past as the hump of additional structure on the door makes the seal fitting more trying, and the work required to install it is significantly easier. If you have any concerns with your skills, ability to fabricate, or have a desire to stiffen your door, buy the Mod 66 kit and install it per the instructions. Just make sure the shape of the door is where you want it or the Mod 66 overlay will set your door permanently in the shape it was when attached.
Notes:
Follow the guidance of Nev and others and get the doors to set properly. It is a must to get the doors to fit right! The doors should close with only light pressure to the door handle top to compress the seal and the door handle will close on its own. Don't stop until it does. Then fit the door strut using the Mod 66 or my Alternate Mod 66.
I have a jig in my shop made from a thin piece of metal with holes spaced at 8 inches that is the door strut compressed length. Simply install a bolt or drill bit through the upper stud hole and attach the angle bracket with stud and plastic clip, then set the door closed. Prep the area where the bracket will set. Note a small shim of metal or clay can be used to set the fore and aft position from scratching against the rear door jamb. Use some foam or clay to hold the jig in place until the 5 minute or super glue dries which will temporarily hold the angle bracket in place. To open the door, from the other side pull the bolt or bit out of the fuselage rebate, open the door and then affix the bracket with a small screw such as a #4 wood screw. Attach the extended strut and check the extended door opening and then do the other side. Check the doors are even (onlookers would be upset if the doors weren't exactly the same( use the screw feature to adjust a bit). Then remove the jig and strut attach brackets. Remove the parts, clean off the temporary glue and secure in place with Redux. Check the installation the next day and if all is well, add two layers of glass over the bracket base with flox and fill, sand, prime and paint. Lasts forever. No more humpy door tops any longer. The struts do not need extra pressure either as this is very light construction verses the actual Mod 66.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support
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