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rowlandcarson(at)gmail.co
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 Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 10:48 am Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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I've made a big hole in the firewall and am trying to get my landing gear frame (LG01/3) aligned with the firewall according to the manual page 21M-2. That calls for 3 tubes (top horizontal and 2 vertical side ones) to be between 1mm & 3mm from the vertical face of the firewall.
After some fettling of the holes and tunnel radii the frame goes in without too much effort, but when I sight down the firewall for a rough check of how far away the relevant tubes are I find they do not appear co-planar. The top tube is too far away at the starboard side, but the starboard vertical tube is almost touching the firewall. The top tube is about the right distance from the firewall at the port side, but the port vertical tube could stand coming a little closer. Oh, and the bottom horizontal tube is pretty much parallel to the firewall. The fuselage bottom moulding is sitting on a dolly that provides support for the curve of the underside and I have not observed any measurable twist in it.
I took the LG frame out and checked the parallelism of the tubes in question by laying a steel flat diagonally across (the piece I had wasn't long enough to stretch from side to side or top to bottom); it rocks audibly on 3 out of 4 of the combinations. My digital level also shows that the top and bottom tubes are about a degree different from each other and the side vertical tubes are about half a degree different from each other.
Is this significant? Should I ask for a replacement LG frame?
My next step, if no other advice forthcoming, would be to try setting the alignment with the swinging arm LG02 fitted temporarily, and accept whatever misalignment the tubes have with the firewall.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
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neveyre(at)aol.co.uk
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| Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 12:13 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
--
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tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.c
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| Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:26 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Reference the landing gear frame, I recall making up a redux flox mix and bedding in the tubes, so that the load were better distributed. I intend on plugging the ends, probably with timber dowels prior to drilling and final attachment, so I can tighten the bolts fully without deforming the tubes, plus also it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel area.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 19/04/2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk (neveyre(at)aol.co.uk)> wrote:
[quote] Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
--
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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| Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:30 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Nev
could I add " make sure the top tube is far enough from the firewall to allow the shock cord to go through easily" or isn't that
a problem?
regards
Graham
probably bump into you next week! (unless you see me first! !
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk>
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 21:10
Subject: Re: landing gear frame geometry
Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
[quote][b]
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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
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| Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 1:32 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Tony
better to plug with thick wall 4130 tube imho
regards
Graham
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
To: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" <europa-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 22:24
Subject: Re: landing gear frame geometry
Reference the landing gear frame, I recall making up a redux flox mix and bedding in the tubes, so that the load were better distributed. I intend on plugging the ends, probably with timber dowels prior to drilling and final attachment, so I can tighten the bolts fully without deforming the tubes, plus also it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel area.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 19/04/2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk (neveyre(at)aol.co.uk)> wrote:
[quote] Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
--
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ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk
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| Posted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 8:01 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Hi! All.......................and use suitably sized saddle washers under the nuts of any bolts that are tightened up on the tubes.!
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of GRAHAM SINGLETON
Sent: 18 April 2012 22:31
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: landing gear frame geometry
Tony
better to plug with thick wall 4130 tube imho
regards
Graham
From: Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com>
To: "europa-list(at)matronics.com" <europa-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2012, 22:24
Subject: Re: landing gear frame geometry
Reference the landing gear frame, I recall making up a redux flox mix and bedding in the tubes, so that the load were better distributed. I intend on plugging the ends, probably with timber dowels prior to drilling and final attachment, so I can tighten the bolts fully without deforming the tubes, plus also it stops CO2 ingress into my tunnel area.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 19/04/2012, at 6:19 AM, Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.co.uk (neveyre(at)aol.co.uk)> wrote:
[quote]
Hi Rowland,
Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall.
Cheers,
Nev.
--
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rowlandcarson(at)gmail.co
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| Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 6:29 am Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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On 18 Apr 2012, at 21:10, Neville Eyre wrote:
| Quote: | Cut some 1/8''ply shims 1'' wide by about 10'' long, push the frame into the tunnel and slip the shims behind the VERTICAL frame tubes. [ or tape them to the aft of the tubes]
Check that the lower U/C frame mounting tube is level with the spar pin bushes, useing a straight edge / level set on the pins [slot the holes in the firewall to achieve this] then kick / whack with a soft hammer the frame back so it nips the two shims, that is where you drill / bolt it.
The frame tube geometry is all over the place, ignore it, just get the lower tube level and the two vertical tubes 1/8'' off the firewall
|
Neville - thanks for your very practical advice. It's a relief to know that minor geometrical anomalies in the frames are nothing to worry about.
Intuitively, I feel the big fat tube where the U/C swinging arm pivots would be an even better thing to have level thwartwise, and of course that tube may not have finished up quite parallel to the bottom tube - I haven't tried to check that yet.
Also, as the manual suggests with its reference to mounting temporarily the swinging arm, that tube should be at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the fuselage.
Thanks again for your help.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson(at)gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
| pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 797
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| Posted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 7:11 am Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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Hi Rowland
Since you are on the subject, before I installed my undercarriage mounting frame I set up the undercarriage with swingarm outside the aeroplane. It allows for very easy studying. I was shocked to find that both of my stops were too long! One of the stops was at center and one under center. It was a gear collapse waiting to happen. Good idea to check and correct before you mount.
Have a look at the first album:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=86937
Be sure to click "no thumbnail" and either view or download document.
Good Luck.
Ron Parigoris [quote][b]
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 5:42 pm Post subject: landing gear frame geometry |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Rowland,
Not to worry as the guys pointed out. I am embarrassed for the company that the tubes are that far off.
They should be rather parallel. Please shim it out if necessary but I can have a new frame sent. My spare one here in the shop is pretty straight.
If you wish to continue, make sure the frame is square to the firewall. Also note that it is not askew to the vertical and horizontal axis as best you can. Make shims to keep the vertical and horizontal tubes 1/8 inch off the firewall (1/16 inch min.). The manual says to leave at least 3/16 inch from the top horizontal tube to the firewall for the bungee. It has been my experience that 1/4 inch minimum is necessary as glass is added and the bungee for the mono or trigear (when springs are not used) gets really tight in there. For the mono, get the swing arm out and temporarily fit it to check the alignment with the well, but if the lower tube is square to the firewall, you will be all right especially with the 7 inch tire.
If the tubes that go into the module are a bit far from the module at points, the Redux (Araldite 420A/B) will take up the slack on final install.
Once you are dry fitted, and have done your best to drill your mounting holes, then take out the frame and assemble your gear on the bench. Make sure your over center is at least 1/16 inch on the LG08s when installed. This is quite easy to do now with the gear on the bench and assembled. Make sure all is well with the mono wheel geometry before final install as it is hell getting up into that well to grind and trim if the arms are not straight.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
Europa Tech Support.
[quote] ---
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