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Cowling

 
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Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 4:14 am    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

I’ve been meaning to take some pictures. I usually remember on the drive home. In fact the following two pictures are all I’ve got at the moment. I still haven’t painted the outside of the cowl. As to how it’s doing…works fine.

Top speed – Unchanged in a series of test runs so far (within 1 knot of previous speed tests of 138 knots). Big caveats to this however. The cowl was installed during an annual that got a new #3 cylinder. So, I’m breaking in the new cylinder and running on mineral oil. I suspect that saps a bit of power. I also just replaced a failing spark plug in the #2 cylinder. After 7 hours of flying a few days ago, I think I have a spark plug in #4 that is also failing. I haven’t caught it on an in-air mag check, but I see the #4 EGT go up and down as much as 20 degrees when the other cylinders are steady and of course the RPM seems to follow the #4 EGT. So, am I simply flying through updrafts/downdrafts and the #4 EGT is simply sensitive to power demand changes or as I suspect, my last iridium plug isn’t 100% anymore. I ordered some new REM37BY plugs yesterday.

Pattern speed – I used to fly a 90 knot pattern at 2050 to 2100 RPM. The first day I flew the new cowl and ever since, the 90 knot pattern RPM has been 1900 to 1950.

Oil temps – Way back tended to be around 190 to 200 degrees. After the new powerflow, it was consistently close to red line (250?). Now it’s back to 190 degrees.

Cylinder temps – The front cylinders are hotter and the back cylinders are colder. The #3 and #4 cylinders usually ran around 390 in full power cruise. The #3 cylinder being broken in is running around 370 with #4 running up to 360, usually less.

Climb Out – The shock cooling alarm, on my #1 cylinder, now goes off after a long climb and then leveling out. The other day I was climbing at about 80 knots from 200’ to 6500’. I was leaning a bit during the climb. The #3 cylinder hit 405 or so, don’t recall what #4 was. A few days ago, 75 degree day, I had to do a gross weight sea level to 8000’ climb which I did at 90 to 95 knots. Again I leaned during the climb, a fair bit after 6000’. The #3 cylinder hit 410.

Visibility – More visibility than with the old cowl. For those that haven’t flow behind one.

Weight – All up W&B change was about 1.75 pounds less.

Pre flight – It’s hard to beat those old latches (sorry don’t recall correct names). Anyway, the new screws on the side just mean I keep a stubby Phillips in the plane and instead of popping a cowl cover in 2 seconds, it now takes…oh 20 seconds. I found that annoying at first but now I’m practiced at it and it doesn’t bother me. Gary, I have to pop the screws all the way out of the cover (put them on the ground) to open the cover or they catch the lower cowl so I can’t open it. Is that your experience or do you flex the cover somehow so that they don’t catch the lower cowl?

Maintenance – I had to remove a few more screws in order to change a lower spark plug last week. I think if my goal was to remove the whole cowl, it would be much quicker than the old one and looks like a trivial 1 person job.

Dan Schmitz
Tiger 4518B
KASH


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From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:00 PM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Prop



How's that cowling? Post some pics


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Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:08 am    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

I believe my engine is 0.4 degrees down thrust. I thought that was in the target range. It matched the old cowl quite nicely and the new cowl, where you had marked some likely lines matched up almost perfectly. In the one picture where the engine looks high, it was a very early picture. The cowl was just resting on the engine without any internal support at that point. I don’t currently have any baffle pictures. I want to replace the bottom #4 spark plug soon, so hopefully I’ll remember then.

Oh, one change I insisted on: The old air intake above the #3 cylinder used to have a grating. The new baffles simply had an open hole. I had visions of a bird quietly nesting back there and me trying to take off with a bird nest covering the air filter. So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole.

Dan

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:54 PM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling

Dan

Thanks for posting.

I just finished the installation on Dean's plane. He's is getting an additional 6 or 7 knots and a gallon an hour less.

Cam-Locs: The hole for the receptacle should be at least 5/8 inches. I then use a countersink bit to flair the edge. Once the Camloc is unlatched, pull it so it's all the way out. Hold onto the two end ones and pull out and open.

In the pic it looks like the engine is way too far up. It needs to be about .5 to 1 degree down.

I had to make the front cylinders run hot in climb to make them even in cruise.

If you have pics of the baffles, I'd really like to see them.

When installing Dean's cowling, I found I needed to tweak some baffles. I have them in for revision. Hopefully the next batch will be closer.

Gary


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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:21 am    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

"So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole."
I actually discussed that with a DER. There was a concern over impact ice blocking the hole. I didn't buy it but who am I to argue. Leaving it off made it simple. How did you attach the screen? Seems simple enough.
From: Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com>
To: "teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 5:05 AM
Subject: RE: Cowling


I believe my engine is 0.4 degrees down thrust. I thought that was in the target range. It matched the old cowl quite nicely and the new cowl, where you had marked some likely lines matched up almost perfectly. In the one picture where the engine looks high, it was a very early picture. The cowl was just resting on the engine without any internal support at that point. I don’t currently have any baffle pictures. I want to replace the bottom #4 spark plug soon, so hopefully I’ll remember then.

Oh, one change I insisted on: The old air intake above the #3 cylinder used to have a grating. The new baffles simply had an open hole. I had visions of a bird quietly nesting back there and me trying to take off with a bird nest covering the air filter. So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole.

Dan

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:54 PM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling



Dan



Thanks for posting.



I just finished the installation on Dean's plane. He's is getting an additional 6 or 7 knots and a gallon an hour less.



Cam-Locs: The hole for the receptacle should be at least 5/8 inches. I then use a countersink bit to flair the edge. Once the Camloc is unlatched, pull it so it's all the way out. Hold onto the two end ones and pull out and open.



In the pic it looks like the engine is way too far up. It needs to be about .5 to 1 degree down.



I had to make the front cylinders run hot in climb to make them even in cruise.



If you have pics of the baffles, I'd really like to see them.



When installing Dean's cowling, I found I needed to tweak some baffles. I have them in for revision. Hopefully the next batch will be closer.



Gary







¦·›~‰í²,Þg(–ŠÓM4ÓGÚqü¢êâz¹ÞÁÊ.®'«8^M榻¦™©ËŠËD™¨¥Šî�,zØ^1«k¢xœ°¸¬´Wš¶êÞ°Ö¯Š­¢»hnº0±í…隟"â²Û­ŠX­‰ë,¹ÈZ°¸¬µIÿJæìr¸©¶*'



[quote][b]


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Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:03 am    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

I employed one of those disgusting owner techniques. I told my A&P to fix it up and went home. I know I looked over the installation later, but don’t recall now.

The icing thought occurred to me as well. But the old system used a grate and there’s the carb heat path. It’s not going to be worse than the original. I’m more afraid of hidden birds.

Dan

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 1:19 PM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling



"So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole."



I actually discussed that with a DER. There was a concern over impact ice blocking the hole. I didn't buy it but who am I to argue. Leaving it off made it simple. How did you attach the screen? Seems simple enough.




From: Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com (Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com)>
To: "teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 5:05 AM
Subject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling


I believe my engine is 0.4 degrees down thrust. I thought that was in the target range. It matched the old cowl quite nicely and the new cowl, where you had marked some likely lines matched up almost perfectly. In the one picture where the engine looks high, it was a very early picture. The cowl was just resting on the engine without any internal support at that point. I don’t currently have any baffle pictures. I want to replace the bottom #4 spark plug soon, so hopefully I’ll remember then.



Oh, one change I insisted on: The old air intake above the #3 cylinder used to have a grating. The new baffles simply had an open hole. I had visions of a bird quietly nesting back there and me trying to take off with a bird nest covering the air filter. So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole.



Dan


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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:03 am    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

Yea, birds can be a pain in the ass.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2012, at 11:01 AM, Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com (Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com)> wrote:

Quote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
I employed one of those disgusting owner techniques. I told my A&P to fix it up and went home. I know I looked over the installation later, but don’t recall now.

The icing thought occurred to me as well. But the old system used a grate and there’s the carb heat path. It’s not going to be worse than the original. I’m more afraid of hidden birds.

Dan

From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Vogt
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 1:19 PM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: Cowling



"So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole."



I actually discussed that with a DER. There was a concern over impact ice blocking the hole. I didn't buy it but who am I to argue. Leaving it off made it simple. How did you attach the screen? Seems simple enough.




From: Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com (Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com)>
To: "teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 5:05 AM
Subject: RE: Cowling


I believe my engine is 0.4 degrees down thrust. I thought that was in the target range. It matched the old cowl quite nicely and the new cowl, where you had marked some likely lines matched up almost perfectly. In the one picture where the engine looks high, it was a very early picture. The cowl was just resting on the engine without any internal support at that point. I don’t currently have any baffle pictures. I want to replace the bottom #4 spark plug soon, so hopefully I’ll remember then.



Oh, one change I insisted on: The old air intake above the #3 cylinder used to have a grating. The new baffles simply had an open hole. I had visions of a bird quietly nesting back there and me trying to take off with a bird nest covering the air filter. So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole.



Dan







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[quote][b]


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BARRY CHECK 6



Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738

PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:26 pm    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

Yup, I agree with Gary.
The only thing the DAR should say is that the screen should have the same
hole pattern and size as the original.

Barry


On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 3:03 PM, Gary <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com> wrote:

Quote:
Yea, birds can be a pain in the ass.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 23, 2012, at 11:01 AM, Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com> wrote:

I employed one of those disgusting owner techniques. I told my A&P to
fix it up and went home. I know I looked over the installation later, but
don’t recall now.****

** **

The icing thought occurred to me as well. But the old system used a grate
and there’s the carb heat path. It’s not going to be worse than the
original. I’m more afraid of hidden birds.****

****

Dan****

** **

*From:* owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary Vogt
*Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2012 1:19 PM
*To:* teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
*Subject:* Re: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling****

** **

"So my baffles have a grate over the air intake hole."****

** **

I actually discussed that with a DER. There was a concern over impact ice
blocking the hole. I didn't buy it but who am I to argue. Leaving it off
made it simple. How did you attach the screen? Seems simple enough.****

** **
------------------------------

*From:* Dan Schmitz <Dan.Schmitz(at)calix.com>
*To:* "teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com" <teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com>
*Sent:* Monday, April 23, 2012 5:05 AM
*Subject:* RE: TeamGrumman-List: Cowling****

** **

I believe my engine is 0.4 degrees down thrust. I thought that was in the
target range. It matched the old cowl quite nicely and the new cowl, where
you had marked some likely lines matched up almost perfectly. In the one
picture where the engine looks high, it was a very early picture. The cowl
was just resting on the engine without any internal support at that point.
I don’t currently have any baffle pictures. I want to replace the bottom
#4 spark plug soon, so hopefully I’ll remember then.****

****

Oh, one change I insisted on: The old air intake above the #3 cylinder
used to have a grating. The new baffles simply had an open hole. I had
visions of a bird quietly nesting back there and me trying to take off with
a bird nest covering the air filter. So my baffles have a grate over the
air intake hole.****

****

Dan****
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*

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:45 pm    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

Also, shop rags or papertowels forgotten and left behind. My friends Commanche has a similar induction for air and we found a rag plugging it up one day....
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:32 pm    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

I intentionally fill mine with rags when not in use. When it won't run, I know why.

Gary
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On Apr 23, 2012, at 9:50 PM, "923te" <923te(at)att.net (923te(at)att.net)> wrote:

[quote] Also, shop rags or papertowels forgotten and left behind. My friends Commanche has a similar induction for air and we found a rag plugging it up one day....
[quote] ---


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mbcrisp



Joined: 16 Apr 2012
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 10:04 am    Post subject: Re: Cowling Reply with quote

Someone mentioned a 0.4 degree down thrust on the engine. The nose bowl on my '74 Traveler has not lined up well with the spinner for as long as I can remember. I was always told, "this was to help counteract torque effects during high power climb". I'm not so sure anymore. Should the nose bowl and the spinner match up and if so, how do I adjust it?

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 8:43 pm    Post subject: Cowling Reply with quote

Send some pics.
First, if you just want to line up with the cowling, step back and take a look at the relationship between the spinner and the cowling. If the upper right (left as you're facing it) is high, add a shim to the upper right engine mount bushing. The shim will go between the shock absorber and the engine. Conversely, you can remove a shim on the lower left.
I optimise the spinner to cowling fit by setting the prop about 1/8 inch low with respect to the top-middle if the spinner/cowling. The engine moves up in flight.
Side-to-side, I center on the cowling.
Gary
From: mbcrisp <mbcrisp87(at)gmail.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Cowling


--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "mbcrisp" <mbcrisp87(at)gmail.com (mbcrisp87(at)gmail.com)>

Someone mentioned a 0.4 degree down thrust on the engine. The nose bowl on my '74 Traveler has not lined up well with the spinner for as long as I can remember. I was always told, "this was to help counteract torque effects during high power climb". I'm not so sure anymore. Should the nose bowl and the spinner match up and if so, how do I adjust it?


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