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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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 Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:17 pm Post subject: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
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I ran a capacity check on one of the batteries, after a top off with
my Schumacher SC600A charger/maintainer, and found that connecting a
65 W headlamp gave me an average current slightly under 5 Amps. At
this load the battery reached 10V, and dropping fast, at about 1hr
45min. A quick calculation gave me about 8AH of capacity. I don't
have the spec sheet for this battery but a random 17AH battery spec
sheet shows in the vicinity of 11 to 12AH at this current level. I
have not run a capacity check with a current drain of less than 1
amp, as they normally do to calculate the published capacity, but
assume that it will increase considerably.
Don't misinterpret my results as saying I am disappointed. To the
contrary, these $10 batteries are more than ample for my extensive
ground testing that I will be doing over the next several months.
As far as I am concerned, It was an excellent deal, and THANK YOU RON
for making this available to us at no profit to yourself, just a lot of work.
I think we had some discussions about these batteries
when Ron firs wrote about them on the List. Given their
light weight in comparison to the garden variety 17 a.h.
devices, it was surmised that these batteries were either
labeled in either in error or as a product of wishful
thinking. Older lead acid technologies ran about .8 a.h.
per pound with modern SVLA versions running in the 1.1
a.h. per pound of finished weight. So your experimental
results are consistent with the weight.
I have two on order . . . are probably at the post office
waiting for me. When the grandson wakes up from his nap, well
go get 'em. I get out the WMR cap meter and plot some curves
on them.
Agreed, Ron's dedication to keeping perfectly good batteries
out of the recycle stream and into the hands of potential
users is commendable!
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:56 pm Post subject: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
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Greetings,
One of the batteries I ordered was smashed on one corner when It
arrived. A little feeling around revealed a space about 1" deep on the
bottom of the battery. That might account for the weight. 
Glad to get them and the other misc parts. If someone comes up with a
cartoon on how to hook the parts up it would save a lot of work for
people like me.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
On 06/08/2012 03:16 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: |
<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
I ran a capacity check on one of the batteries, after a top off with my
Schumacher SC600A charger/maintainer, and found that connecting a 65 W
headlamp gave me an average current slightly under 5 Amps. At this load
the battery reached 10V, and dropping fast, at about 1hr 45min. A quick
calculation gave me about 8AH of capacity. I don't have the spec sheet
for this battery but a random 17AH battery spec sheet shows in the
vicinity of 11 to 12AH at this current level. I have not run a capacity
check with a current drain of less than 1 amp, as they normally do to
calculate the published capacity, but assume that it will increase
considerably.
Don't misinterpret my results as saying I am disappointed. To the
contrary, these $10 batteries are more than ample for my extensive
ground testing that I will be doing over the next several months.
As far as I am concerned, It was an excellent deal, and THANK YOU RON
for making this available to us at no profit to yourself, just a lot of
work.
I think we had some discussions about these batteries
when Ron firs wrote about them on the List. Given their
light weight in comparison to the garden variety 17 a.h.
devices, it was surmised that these batteries were either
labeled in either in error or as a product of wishful
thinking. Older lead acid technologies ran about .8 a.h.
per pound with modern SVLA versions running in the 1.1
a.h. per pound of finished weight. So your experimental
results are consistent with the weight.
I have two on order . . . are probably at the post office
waiting for me. When the grandson wakes up from his nap, well
go get 'em. I get out the WMR cap meter and plot some curves
on them.
Agreed, Ron's dedication to keeping perfectly good batteries
out of the recycle stream and into the hands of potential
users is commendable!
Bob . . .
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 792
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: 9 lb battery/jumpstart information |
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Hi Raymond
Hmm, I sent this through my ISP an hour and a half ago but it never posted? Here it goes again through Matronics:
"how to hook the parts"
Here is some insight to the 9 pound batteries:
**At a 1/10C discharge, capacity is not far off from a 9aH battery. They weigh about 9 pounds. A 17 or 18aH battery with approximately the same dimensions but really has 17 or 18aH capacity is 13 or more pounds. The best deal we found for the purchase of 500 batteries was 30$ each and we had to pay for shipping. There is nothing wrong with the 9aH batteries except they are 9aHs.
**The 9aH batteries are very happy being charged with the supplied charger which is a constant current charger and turns off at ~14.5 volts. They are pretty happy being charged at a 1,000mA rate, so if you parallel two of the supplied chargers, that works fine or I my Yuasa (battery tender rip off) charger 1,000 mA charger. We have a 3,000mA three stage charger and it kinda works, it sometimes will not give as good a charge as the 500 mA or 1,000mA charger. I find that after charging and waiting a day, if you have `13 volts ar so the battery is fully charged. Sometimes the 3,000mA charger does not get the battery to that level.
**If you allow the battery to fall below 50% charge state and sit there for a while (12.4 volts) it can get hurt. I found that the very best way to bring a battery that got hurt back to life is to use the 500mA charger and charge control board and let it peak (red LED turns off meaning that it reached at least ~ 14.5 volts). Then connect the battery directly to the 500mA transformer and chase the voltage till it gets to 15.5 volts and turn it off. We have saved batteries in the field by doing this countless times. We are talking it may take a few days in a bad case battery to get to 15.5 volts.
As far as hooking up the chargers, it is very simple.
Connect a source (2 wires) and connect output (2 wires) to the battery.
INPUT:
There are two ways to hook up the input, from the back of the board or the front. To hook up from the back, hook up the transformer positive (black wire with white stripe) to the tail of a wire (black wire with white stripe) and do the same with the negative wires. Some transformers are already connected, some were cut off.Or you can connect the input through the front side of the control board. i supplied a wire with athe proper connector attached to it to fit the female recepticle on the front of the board. Connect positive to black wire (with white stripe) and negative to the black wire. You can use the supplied transformer, or you can use a 12 volt source. Note you will not get a full charge from a static 12 volt battery, but can get close from a running vehicle. There was a male cigarette plug that came connected to this wire.
OK now for the output, this is the side that connects to your battery..
Connect red to the positive of the battery and black to the negative of the battery.
Solder or use a clip to connect to the positive bus on the board: R3, R2,D4,R6,R7 and connect to the positive of the battery.
Solder or clip to the negative bus. It is the three holes to the right of the R5 resistor and connect to the negative of the battery.
When the LED D3 is on and the battery is connected, you are charging, when the Red LED D3 goes off the battery is charged (it means it peaked at ~ 14.5 volts). Now you can disconnect your battery.
NOTE, if you put another discharged battery on the charger it will not begin a charge cycle until you disconnect the input power for at least a few seconds to unlatch a latched holding relay. Give it a try for yourself, put a battery on charge and get the Red LED to come on. Now disconnect an output lead and you will hear a click and the Red LED will go off. If you reconnect the output lead the Red LED will remain off. Now leaving the output connected to the control board, disconnect the input power for a few seconds. You will hear a click and see the LED flash shortly. Now reconnect the input power and you will again see the RED is on.
Good Luck!
Ron Parigoris
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 5:36 am Post subject: 9 lb battery/jumpstart kits |
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Just confirming what Ron has already asserted . . . here's
a 1-amp discharge curve on one of the batteries he sent
me:
[img]cid:7.1.0.9.0.20120609083206.01e0c0c0(at)aeroelectric.com.0[/img]
This test article delivered just over 11 a.h. at the 1-amp
so I suspect the 20 hour rate is about 0.8 amps for a total
of 12 a.h.
Both of the batteries I received were in the 180-200 amp
range for 15 second cranking currents.
Bob . . .
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