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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 2:49 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Ken

the two people I know who've done most research on the cooling of Europas, with some success, are 

PaulMcAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>;	FransVeldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl>;

Both have the XS installation, not Classic.

Link to the forum is  <europa-list(at)matronics.com>;

Graham

        From: "ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk" <ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk>

 To: GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com> 

 Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012, 10:01

 Subject: Contact detail & Help

  

 

         Graham,

  

 The Canadian contact details;

  

 seth.g.london(at)ca.pwc.com (seth.g.london(at)ca.pwc.com)



 Have you any chapter on verse or can could  point me in the right direction where to look for the best on a/c  engine cooling-cowl design principles.

  

 Also if poss could you send me the link over to get  back on to the Europa Forum please

  

 All would be much appreciated,

  

 Ken

  

  



 

 

 

  

 [quote][b]

budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:22 pm Post subject: Contact detail & Help

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Ken and Graham,

 I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa  Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .

 If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree  summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by the calls and email  success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.

  

 References for further study are at the end of the document.  

  

 Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems  cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact it gets a bit too cool in  cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only  treating the airflow around the coolers.

 I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished  three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab  3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except  taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit  too hot for a takeoff on a summer day.  

  

 I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

  

 Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more  specifics or are having problems getting the references on line.

  

 Regards,

 Bud Yerly

 Europa Tech Support

US Europa Dealer

 Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

www.customflightcreations.com

(813)  653-4989

  

 [quote]   ---

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carlmeek(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:49 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Hi Bud,

I would love to hear what you have to say on the Jabiru, my engineer is about to start modifications to the cowl, cylinder baffles, etc – our goal is to try and improve CHT temperatures.  While we're at it, I'd also like to try and lean the engine and get some  better economy, mine is a guzzler.

I've already chatted with various people, including Doug at Jabiru, and I personally feel that my own aircraft's solutions are (a) sealing off oil cooler to prevent airflow entering the lower cowl and (b) putting a lip on the front of the cowl exit in order to help with the exit of air entering the main 2 holes by the prop.  However my engineer (who is a fluid dynamics expert) disagrees with this approach and doesn't feel it will work - I need to get more information from him on why.  In photographs of my aircraft in the flare, a similar attitude to a climb, you can see how forward airflow enters the bottom of the cowl, so to me it looks a no-brainer that we need a lip.

Regards,

-Carl.

From:  Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)>

Reply-To:  <europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)>

Date:  Sun, 10 Jun 2012 00:21:08 -0400

To:  <europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)>, <ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk (ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk)>

Subject:  Re: Re: Contact detail & Help



<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->Ken and Graham,

I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa  Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .

If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree  summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by the calls and email  success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.

 

References for further study are at the end of the document.  

 

Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems  cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact it gets a bit too cool in  cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only  treating the airflow around the coolers.

I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished  three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab  3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except  taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit  too hot for a takeoff on a summer day.  

 

I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

 

Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more  specifics or are having problems getting the references on line.

 

Regards,

Bud Yerly

Europa Tech Support

US Europa Dealer

Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

www.customflightcreations.com

(813)  653-4989

 

[quote]   ---

grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:25 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Bud

apologies for forgetting to mention you! Careless, or a bit senile perhaps {{



The thing I like about Frans' and Paul's work is the attempt to reduce cooling drag.

regards

Graham



        From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com; ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk 

 Sent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21

 Subject: Re:  Re: Contact detail & Help

  

 

        Ken and Graham,

 I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa  Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .

 If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree  summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by the calls and email  success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.

  

 References for further study are at the end of the document.  

  

 Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems  cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact it gets a bit too cool in  cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only  treating the airflow around the coolers.

 I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished  three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab  3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except  taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit  too hot for a takeoff on a summer day.  

  

 I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

  

 Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more  specifics or are having problems getting the references on line.

  

 Regards,

 Bud Yerly

 Europa Tech Support

US Europa Dealer

 Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

www.customflightcreations.com

(813)  653-4989

  

 [quote]   ---

grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:43 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Bud



your  explanation of the problems is excellent. I haven't done much work with Europas for years but I have 



been working on my Long EZ. I can confirm that exhaust extraction is very effective. I can run full throttle

static on  the ground for up to ten minutes on a warm English day. 



Do you know Steve Volovsek? I think he is based in Florida, his Long is the one I copied, we have the  same 



Lycoming  engine and his cooling air inlets are quite small. No slipstream either when static! Have a look at the attached photos.

It's worth noting that the cross sectional area of the gaps between the cooling fins is pretty small, the important thing is recovering enough pressure

from the inlet ambient (total energy) pressure to force the air through them. Worth looking at for the Jab.

The center inlet btw is to the throttle body. Total cooling air inlet is less than 30 square inches for a 160 bhp air cooled engine.



One thing to note, it's important not to have hot air flowing down the side of the fuselage, it needs mixing with cooler air.



regards

Graham



      From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com; ken(at)ardenrich.co.uk 

 Sent: Sunday, 10 June 2012, 5:21

 Subject: Re: Re: Contact  detail & Help

  

 

       

I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished  three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab  3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except  taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit  too hot for a takeoff on a summer day.  

  

 I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

  

Regards, Bud Yerly

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nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:04 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Bud,

     

     A fascinating article - thanks. It would seem that I have spent the     last God knows how many years researching the same data as you     (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA papers) and come up with much the same     conclusions regarding cooling and cooling drag reduction. By a     curious coincidence, I have been busy this weekend buried in my     workshop - laminating. Compare the results, hot-out-of-the-mould,     with the computer generated cowl design on page 16 of your report.     My design concepts would all appear to have come out of your "Lets's     get radical" section!

     

     Keep up the good work.

     

     Nigel

     

     On 10/06/2012 05:21, Bud Yerly wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		                       <?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->                Ken and Graham,

         I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used           for Europa Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the           Europa Flyer .

         If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in           Florida at 95 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.            Judging by the calls and email success stories, these simple           techniques work pretty much world wide.

          

         References for further study are at the end of the           document.  

          

         Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl           have no problems cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact           it gets a bit too cool in cooler climates and this is with no           modifications to the existing cowl, only treating the airflow           around the coolers.

         I have worked these issues over the last six years and we           just finished three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and           we reworked a clients Jab 3300, and all the Rotax's have no           cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except taxi times must           be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too hot for a           takeoff on a summer day.  

          

         I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

          

         Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have           need of more specifics or are having problems getting the           references on line.

          

         Regards,

         Bud Yerly

         Europa Tech Support

           US Europa Dealer

         Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

           www.customflightcreations.com

           (813) 653-4989

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klinefelter.kevin(at)gmai
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:48 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Nigel,

Oh my, what a beautiful work of art. I hope you will keep us informed of results regarding the boy with nose job!

Kevin

Do not archive



On Jun 12, 2012, at 5:02 AM, "nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk (nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk)" <nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk (nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk)> wrote:



[quote]                   Bud,

     

     A fascinating article - thanks. It would seem that I have spent the     last God knows how many years researching the same data as you     (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA papers) and come up with much the same     conclusions regarding cooling and cooling drag reduction. By a     curious coincidence, I have been busy this weekend buried in my     workshop - laminating. Compare the results, hot-out-of-the-mould,     with the computer generated cowl design on page 16 of your report.     My design concepts would all appear to have come out of your "Lets's     get radical" section!

     

     Keep up the good work.

     

     Nigel

     

     On 10/06/2012 05:21, Bud Yerly wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		                       <?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->                Ken and Graham,

         I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used           for Europa Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the           Europa Flyer .

         If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in           Florida at 95 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.            Judging by the calls and email success stories, these simple           techniques work pretty much world wide.

          

         References for further study are at the end of the           document.  

          

         Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl           have no problems cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact           it gets a bit too cool in cooler climates and this is with no           modifications to the existing cowl, only treating the airflow           around the coolers.

         I have worked these issues over the last six years and we           just finished three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and           we reworked a clients Jab 3300, and all the Rotax's have no           cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except taxi times must           be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too hot for a           takeoff on a summer day.  

          

         I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

          

         Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have           need of more specifics or are having problems getting the           references on line.

          

         Regards,

         Bud Yerly

         Europa Tech Support

           US Europa Dealer

         Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

           www.customflightcreations.com

           (813) 653-4989

          

       

     	
     

<120610 - Cowl.pdf>

[b]

rlborger(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:05 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Nigel,



Holy Cow!  That's gorgeous!  If it works as well as it looks it should be worth 25 Kts.

Keep us posted as work progresses and it flies.  And take good care of those molds as you may have to spend all your spare time making copies for the rest of us.



 Blue skies & tailwinds,

Bob Borger

Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop.

Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP

3705 Lynchburg Dr.

Corinth, TX  76208-5331

Cel: 817-992-1117

rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)

 

 

On Jun 12, 2012, at 7:02 AM, nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk (nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk) wrote:

                   Bud,

     

     A fascinating article - thanks. It would seem that I have spent the     last God knows how many years researching the same data as you     (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA papers) and come up with much the same     conclusions regarding cooling and cooling drag reduction. By a     curious coincidence, I have been busy this weekend buried in my     workshop - laminating. Compare the results, hot-out-of-the-mould,     with the computer generated cowl design on page 16 of your report.     My design concepts would all appear to have come out of your "Lets's     get radical" section!

     

     Keep up the good work.

     

     Nigel

     

     On 10/06/2012 05:21, Bud Yerly wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		                       <?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->                Ken and Graham,

         I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used           for Europa Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the           Europa Flyer .

         If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in           Florida at 95 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.            Judging by the calls and email success stories, these simple           techniques work pretty much world wide.

          

         References for further study are at the end of the           document.  

          

         Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl           have no problems cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact           it gets a bit too cool in cooler climates and this is with no           modifications to the existing cowl, only treating the airflow           around the coolers.

         I have worked these issues over the last six years and we           just finished three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and           we reworked a clients Jab 3300, and all the Rotax's have no           cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except taxi times must           be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too hot for a           takeoff on a summer day.  

          

         I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.

          

         Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have           need of more specifics or are having problems getting the           references on line.

          

         Regards,

         Bud Yerly

         Europa Tech Support

           US Europa Dealer

         Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

           www.customflightcreations.com

           (813) 653-4989

          

       

     	
   

  <120610 - Cowl.pdf>

max8992

Joined: 28 Jul 2011
Posts: 142

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:24 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Hi Nigel,

 

I should say « Master Nigel », really Best-in-Class!

Assuming there is few hundreds of Europa flying word wide, I thing you have a market for it. 

Otherwise, will you loan the mold or at least share the way to build it?

 

Max  Cointe

F-PMLH TriGear Kit #560

912ULS Airmaster 420 hours

mcointe(at)free.fr (mcointe(at)free.fr)

 



 

De : owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] De la part de nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk

Envoyé : mardi 12 juin 2012 14:03

À : europa-list(at)matronics.com

Objet : Re: Re: Contact detail & Help

 

Bud,



A fascinating article - thanks. It would seem that I have spent the last God knows how many years researching the same data as you (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA papers) and come up with much the same conclusions regarding cooling and cooling drag reduction. By a curious coincidence, I have been busy this weekend buried in my workshop - laminating. Compare the results, hot-out-of-the-mould, with the computer generated cowl design on page 16 of your report. My design concepts would all appear to have come out of your "Lets's get radical" section!



Keep up the good work.



Nigel



On 10/06/2012 05:21, Bud Yerly wrote: 

Ken and Graham,



I've attached my modifications and techniques briefing used for Europa Cooling with the XS cowl which written up in the Europa Flyer .



If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by the calls and email success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.



 



References for further study are at the end of the document.  



 



Those who have followed these techniques with a stock cowl have no problems cooling especially with the trigear.  In fact it gets a bit too cool in cooler climates and this is with no modifications to the existing cowl, only treating the airflow around the coolers.



I have worked these issues over the last six years and we just finished three more aircraft at the shop, all Rotax and we reworked a clients Jab 3300, and all the Rotax's have no cooling issues and the Jab is tolerable except taxi times must be short, 10 or 15 minutes max or it gets a bit too hot for a takeoff on a summer day.  



 



I'll do another briefing/article on the Jabiru before long.



 



Call or email me at the office in Florida below if you have need of more specifics or are having problems getting the references on line.



 



Regards,



Bud Yerly



Europa Tech Support

US Europa Dealer



Custom Flight Creations, Inc.

www.customflightcreations.com

(813) 653-4989



 

  [quote][b]

_________________
Max8992
Europa XS #560 F-PMLH

Fred Klein

Joined: 26 Mar 2012
Posts: 503

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:37 pm Post subject: Contact detail & Help

On Jun 12, 2012, at 5:02 AM, nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   It would seem that I have spent the last God knows how many years  

 researching the same data as you (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA  

 papers) and come up with much the same conclusions regarding cooling  

 and cooling drag reduction. By a curious coincidence, I have been  

 busy this weekend buried in my workshop - laminating.


	


Nigel...do you Brits still shout "Huzzah?



What outstanding work...absolutely superb...I can appreciate your many  

talents, dedication, hard work, and the HOURS you've devoted to this  

beauty. Here, here!!



Two questions:



- weight: ?



- distance from front face of cowl (not including spinner) to edge of  

cowl which overlaps the firewall?



Fred

nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:35 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Hi Fred, Kevin, Bob and Max,

     

     Thank you all for your kind words, worth all the more coming from     people whose opinions I respect and appreciate.  

     

     Fred, I've answered your questions below.

     

     Nigel

     

     On 13/06/2012 01:36, Fred Klein wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		  --> Europa-List message posted by: Fred Klein       <fklein(at)orcasonline.com> (fklein(at)orcasonline.com)       

       

       

       On Jun 12, 2012, at 5:02 AM, nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk (nigel_graham(at)m-tecque.co.uk) wrote:       

       

        	  Quote: 	
		  It would seem that I have spent the last         God knows how many years researching the same data as you         (mostly 1940's and 50's NACA papers) and come up with much the         same conclusions regarding cooling and cooling drag reduction.         By a curious coincidence, I have been busy this weekend buried         in my workshop - laminating.         

       	
       

       Nigel...do you Brits still shout "Huzzah?       

     	
     Not as much as we used to Fred. There's not a lot of call for it at     the moment, though I did startle the neighbours with a hearty     "Yeeeee Ha" when it popped out of the mould without sticking.

      	  Quote: 	
		         

       What outstanding work...absolutely superb...I can appreciate your       many talents, dedication, hard work, and the HOURS you've devoted       to this beauty. Here, here!!

     	
     Thanks.

      	  Quote: 	
		  Two questions:       

       

       - weight: ?       

     	
     Top Cowl = 2139g

     Bottom cowl = 2856g

     Spinner = 545g

     

      	  Quote: 	
		  - distance from front face of cowl (not including       spinner) to edge of cowl which overlaps the firewall?       

     	
     850mm or about 33.5 of Her Majesty's finest inches into the "Joggle"     (should be the same as an XS). The real trick was making a short and     dumpy cowl look long and sleek.

     

     

     On 12/06/2012 14:22, Max Cointe wrote:      	  Quote: 	
		         

Assuming there is few hundreds of Europa flying           word wide, I thing you have a market for it.        

Otherwise, will you loan the mold or at least           share the way to build it?     	
     Max, The cowling is only part of a programme of extensive     "face-lift" mods for the Europa, so until I have finished mine and     tested it and had it approved, I do not really want to sell on     copies. I would however be happy to give any hints or tips on how to     create "plugs" and moulds to allow you to create your own in a     typical home environment (I.e. without full composite factory     facilities).  If interested, contact me off-list.

     

     Nigel

     

      [quote][b]

budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:47 pm Post subject: Contact detail & Help

<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]-->  Nigel,

 Where do you find the time.

 Don't you just hate paying that much for carbon?  Disgusting, isn't  it.  It is great stuff.

 I assisted our local engineering college at the University of Central  Florida with some senior design project supervision and we got the carbon  donated.  The young engineering students didn't  understand.... 

  

 Regards,

 Bud

 [quote]   ---

frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 3:11 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

On 06/10/2012 06:21 AM, Bud Yerly wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95

 degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by the calls and

 email success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.


	


Although your solution might indeed work world wide it is less suitable

for Europeans.



There are a few reasons for this:

1) Your solution is focussed on more cooling air flow. Unfortunately

more cooling air also means more cooling drag. More cooling drag means

that higher power settings are required to achieve a desired cruise

speed. Although that might not be significant for those living in a part

of the world where fuel prices are only a fraction from what it is here,

for many of us here the fuel price is by far the largest cost involved

with flying our Europa's.



In another posting you wrote:

"135 with the old pants at 5500/34 inches at 1000 MSL,"

"His trigear only goes 130 at max cruise."



I do 130 with 27", about 155 with 34". This is a heavy hi-top tri-gear.

Although I selected a very efficient prop and have Fred Kleins wing root

fairings, I believe that a large portion of the reduction in drag is

achieved by my modified cooling system.



2) Climate. I believe that in your area the weather is somewhat more

constant than it is here. This month I have been flying in cruise mode

in freezing temperature conditions (high altitude in Norway) and in

prolonged full power climbs with 35C OAT (Croatia). Unless you use

thermostats you can't achieve constant temperatures in all conditions.



After numerous experiments this is what I have learned:

0) Cooling drag is the main drag of modern efficient airplanes. Imagine

the air swirling around in the cowling, colliding in all kind of

obstacles, and flowing over tubular objects (worst airodynamic shape

possible) and finally leaving the airplane in the wrong direction and

with the wrong speed...

1) The Rotax engine is for 95% liquid (oil, coolant) cooled. Forget

about airflow over the engine, apart from the cylinder walls no cooling

air is needed at all. Sure you can compensate for a poor liquid cooling

with air flow, but it is extremely inefficient. Once you have the liquid

cooling working correctly, you can close off all holes. That's right,

ALL holes. This includes the two "eye's". the gills, the naca inlets,

the nose wheel opening, everything. There is only one small opening

needed to connect the Rotax shroud for cylinder wall cooling.

2) The main problem in the stock setup is the radiator. The stock

radiator is too thick (not even to mention the tandem design). The

pressure difference required to maintain enough air flow is too large,

and you need very large openings to keep enough air flowing. I have

tried many carefully designed diffusers but I never got the stock

radiator working sufficient enough for prolonged full power climbs in

hot weather.

3) Use an oil to water heat exchanger. This means that you have to focus

on the air flow of only one radiator, and also don't need an oil

thermostat and still have superfast warm-up times.

4) Get away with the entire "dog house". It is ugly and it serves no

purpose.

5) Use an adjustable cowl flap to control engine temperatures.

6) Reroute the exhaust so the cowl opening points to the rear. I tried

to build an exhaust augmentor but I'm not sure if it really works. In

any case, the cowling air escaping around the exhaust opening flows in

the correct direction and doesn't upset the air stream.



So. what I'm using now is a thin radiator, mounted flush with the

underside of the cowling. (Custom made, 300 Euro's). It is slanted so it

follows the shape of the cowling. Because of the angle the horizontal

frontal area is very small, you can say it forms a natural diffuser.

Flow is controlled by an exit cowl flap. If the air flow is restricted

by the cowl flap, the air in front of the radiator even doesn't "see"

the radiator, the air flows over the surface and follows the shape of

the cowling as if the radiator doesn't exist at all.

The air leaving the radiator is recycled because it flows under the

engine, taking the heat of exhaust and turbo with it on its way out. No

separate openings for these items are necessary.

The coolant is also used to cool (or heat!) the oil via a heat

exchanger. Apart from the heat-up time, the oil temperature is always 5C

higher than the coolant temperature, which I consider to be perfect. I

keep the water at 105C and the oil at 110C in all conditions. This is

the best for the engine and the efficiency.

For cylinder cooling you can use the standard Rotax shroud with the

opening under the propeller. I made my own shroud because of the vaccuum

pad alternator which prevents the use of the standard shroud, but the

idea is similar.



After one year of using this, I can state the following results:

1) Adequate cooling in ALL conditions. I have excecuted a full power

climb from 0ft to FL095 at 80 knots in an inversion layer with a OAT of

35C for most of the trajectory, with the water temp not exceeding 110C

and the oil not exceeding 120C. This was with the cowl flap not yet

fully open. Although not yet tested, I'm convinced that the cooling

would work ok in OAT's of 45C as well.

2) In cruise the cowl flap is typically only half an inch open; i.e. it

protrudes only a half inch below the belly of the airplane. Compare that

with the huge tunnelexit of the stock XS design!

3) Unlimited ground operations, even in very hot weather.

4) Superfast heat-up times. 5 minutes is even in the winter sufficient

to get the oil temp far enough up into the yellow arc to perform a take off.

5) Low cowling temperatures, despite the lack of ventilation.

Temperatures don't exceed 60C, except briefly after engine shut off. In

hot weather I open the oil tank access door after landing for a few

minutes to let the hot air out.

6) Weight savings. I have not weighed the difference, but I'm sure the

flat radiator and heat exchanger is lighter than the two stock radiators

and tunnel hard ware.



About the picture:

This was the unfinished design. The final version is even smoother.

The only exit opening here is the proptrusion of the "tunnel" against

the belly of the fuselage. The nose wheel opening is sealed off and

flush with the belly. The cowl flap can be extended further but this is

the typical cruise setting. Quite a difference compared to the stock

tunnel, eh?



In addition of the rectangular radiator opening I have two round inlets.

The one on the starboard side serves the intercooler for the turbo (via

a wedge diffuser and butterfly valve). You don't need this inlet if you

don't have an intercooler. The opening  on the port side connects to the

cylinder wall shrouds. You could use the standard Rotax shroud with the

opening below the prop instead, but I made a round inlet on the port

side to maintain the symmetry. In most setups you can ommit these round

inlets. That would be an even cleaner nose!

The starboard inlet also facilitates the engine air intake. The port

inlet also connects to a very small auxilliary oil radiator. Without

this radiator the water-oil delta T was 10C, and with the extra radiator

I got my desired delta T of 5C. It is not really needed if you are

satisfied with the standard delta T.

On the top of the firewall you see a small servo, a similar model as the

vertical trim servo. This servo connects via a rod to the cowl flap. The

cowl flap hinges close to the radiator so even when it is fully open the

angle is very low. A simple but very efficent mechanism!



The front exhaust elbows are wrapped to save the cowling which is very

close.



If there is enough interest in this subject, I'm willing to write an

article about it. There is a lot of testing, reading, thinking, and

learning from failures behind this design.

Although I have been flying a year with it now, I have only recently

been able to test it in very hot and demanding conditions during our

just finished round trip in Corsica, Italy and Croatia and overflying

the Alps twice.



More about that trip later.



Frans

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davidjoyce(at)doctors.org
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:00 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Frans, I for one and I am sure the entire Europa Club 

committee would love to see you write an article for the 

Europa Flyer detailing your design and flying findings.

Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ

On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 14:04:55 +0200

  Frans Veldman <frans(at)privatepilots.nl> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   On 06/10/2012 06:21 AM, Bud Yerly wrote:

> If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in 

>Florida at 95

> degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze.  Judging by 

>the calls and

> email success stories, these simple techniques work 

>pretty much world wide.

 Although your solution might indeed work world wide it 

is less suitable

 for Europeans.

 There are a few reasons for this:

 1) Your solution is focussed on more cooling air flow. 

Unfortunately

 more cooling air also means more cooling drag. More 

cooling drag means

 that higher power settings are required to achieve a 

desired cruise

 speed. Although that might not be significant for those 

living in a part

 of the world where fuel prices are only a fraction from 

what it is here,

 for many of us here the fuel price is by far the largest 

cost involved

 with flying our Europa's.

 In another posting you wrote:

 "135 with the old pants at 5500/34 inches at 1000 MSL,"

 "His trigear only goes 130 at max cruise."

 I do 130 with 27", about 155 with 34". This is a heavy 

hi-top tri-gear.

 Although I selected a very efficient prop and have Fred 

Kleins wing root

 fairings, I believe that a large portion of the 

reduction in drag is

 achieved by my modified cooling system.

 2) Climate. I believe that in your area the weather is 

somewhat more

 constant than it is here. This month I have been flying 

in cruise mode

 in freezing temperature conditions (high altitude in 

Norway) and in

 prolonged full power climbs with 35C OAT (Croatia). 

Unless you use

 thermostats you can't achieve constant temperatures in 

all conditions.

 After numerous experiments this is what I have learned:

 0) Cooling drag is the main drag of modern efficient 

airplanes. Imagine

 the air swirling around in the cowling, colliding in all 

kind of

 obstacles, and flowing over tubular objects (worst 

airodynamic shape

 possible) and finally leaving the airplane in the wrong 

direction and

 with the wrong speed...

 1) The Rotax engine is for 95% liquid (oil, coolant) 

cooled. Forget

 about airflow over the engine, apart from the cylinder 

walls no cooling

 air is needed at all. Sure you can compensate for a poor 

liquid cooling

 with air flow, but it is extremely inefficient. Once you 

have the liquid

 cooling working correctly, you can close off all holes. 

That's right,

 ALL holes. This includes the two "eye's". the gills, the 

naca inlets,

 the nose wheel opening, everything. There is only one 

small opening

 needed to connect the Rotax shroud for cylinder wall 

cooling.

 2) The main problem in the stock setup is the radiator. 

The stock

 radiator is too thick (not even to mention the tandem 

design). The

 pressure difference required to maintain enough air flow 

is too large,

 and you need very large openings to keep enough air 

flowing. I have

 tried many carefully designed diffusers but I never got 

the stock

 radiator working sufficient enough for prolonged full 

power climbs in

 hot weather.

 3) Use an oil to water heat exchanger. This means that 

you have to focus

 on the air flow of only one radiator, and also don't 

need an oil

 thermostat and still have superfast warm-up times.

 4) Get away with the entire "dog house". It is ugly and 

it serves no

 purpose.

 5) Use an adjustable cowl flap to control engine 

temperatures.

 6) Reroute the exhaust so the cowl opening points to the 

rear. I tried

 to build an exhaust augmentor but I'm not sure if it 

really works. In

 any case, the cowling air escaping around the exhaust 

opening flows in

 the correct direction and doesn't upset the air stream.

 So. what I'm using now is a thin radiator, mounted flush 

with the

 underside of the cowling. (Custom made, 300 Euro's). It 

is slanted so it

 follows the shape of the cowling. Because of the angle 

the horizontal

 frontal area is very small, you can say it forms a 

natural diffuser.

Flow is controlled by an exit cowl flap. If the air flow 

is restricted

 by the cowl flap, the air in front of the radiator even 

doesn't "see"

 the radiator, the air flows over the surface and follows 

the shape of

 the cowling as if the radiator doesn't exist at all.

 The air leaving the radiator is recycled because it 

flows under the

 engine, taking the heat of exhaust and turbo with it on 

its way out. No

 separate openings for these items are necessary.

 The coolant is also used to cool (or heat!) the oil via 

a heat

 exchanger. Apart from the heat-up time, the oil 

temperature is always 5C

 higher than the coolant temperature, which I consider to 

be perfect. I

 keep the water at 105C and the oil at 110C in all 

conditions. This is

 the best for the engine and the efficiency.

For cylinder cooling you can use the standard Rotax 

shroud with the

 opening under the propeller. I made my own shroud 

because of the vaccuum

 pad alternator which prevents the use of the standard 

shroud, but the

 idea is similar.

 After one year of using this, I can state the following 

results:

 1) Adequate cooling in ALL conditions. I have excecuted 

a full power

 climb from 0ft to FL095 at 80 knots in an inversion 

layer with a OAT of

 35C for most of the trajectory, with the water temp not 

exceeding 110C

 and the oil not exceeding 120C. This was with the cowl 

flap not yet

 fully open. Although not yet tested, I'm convinced that 

the cooling

 would work ok in OAT's of 45C as well.

 2) In cruise the cowl flap is typically only half an 

inch open; i.e. it

 protrudes only a half inch below the belly of the 

airplane. Compare that

 with the huge tunnelexit of the stock XS design!

 3) Unlimited ground operations, even in very hot 

weather.

 4) Superfast heat-up times. 5 minutes is even in the 

winter sufficient

 to get the oil temp far enough up into the yellow arc to 

perform a take off.

 5) Low cowling temperatures, despite the lack of 

ventilation.

 Temperatures don't exceed 60C, except briefly after 

engine shut off. In

 hot weather I open the oil tank access door after 

landing for a few

 minutes to let the hot air out.

 6) Weight savings. I have not weighed the difference, 

but I'm sure the

 flat radiator and heat exchanger is lighter than the two 

stock radiators

 and tunnel hard ware.

 About the picture:

 This was the unfinished design. The final version is 

even smoother.

 The only exit opening here is the proptrusion of the 

"tunnel" against

 the belly of the fuselage. The nose wheel opening is 

sealed off and

 flush with the belly. The cowl flap can be extended 

further but this is

 the typical cruise setting. Quite a difference compared 

to the stock

 tunnel, eh?

 In addition of the rectangular radiator opening I have 

two round inlets.

 The one on the starboard side serves the intercooler for 

the turbo (via

 a wedge diffuser and butterfly valve). You don't need 

this inlet if you

 don't have an intercooler. The opening  on the port side 

connects to the

 cylinder wall shrouds. You could use the standard Rotax 

shroud with the

 opening below the prop instead, but I made a round inlet 

on the port

 side to maintain the symmetry. In most setups you can 

ommit these round

 inlets. That would be an even cleaner nose!

 The starboard inlet also facilitates the engine air 

intake. The port

 inlet also connects to a very small auxilliary oil 

radiator. Without

 this radiator the water-oil delta T was 10C, and with 

the extra radiator

 I got my desired delta T of 5C. It is not really needed 

if you are

 satisfied with the standard delta T.

 On the top of the firewall you see a small servo, a 

similar model as the

 vertical trim servo. This servo connects via a rod to 

the cowl flap. The

 cowl flap hinges close to the radiator so even when it 

is fully open the

 angle is very low. A simple but very efficent mechanism!

 The front exhaust elbows are wrapped to save the cowling 

which is very

 close.

 If there is enough interest in this subject, I'm willing 

to write an

 article about it. There is a lot of testing, reading, 

thinking, and

 learning from failures behind this design.

 Although I have been flying a year with it now, I have 

only recently

 been able to test it in very hot and demanding 

conditions during our

 just finished round trip in Corsica, Italy and Croatia 

and overflying

 the Alps twice.

 More about that trip later.

Frans

paul.the.aviator(at)gmail
Guest

Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:35 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Ha ha.... I wondered who was going to be first out of the closet, me or Fran’s.  Fran’s and I have been collaborating on a journey of discovery for the last couple of years.    

I have been reluctant to share what I have been doing, mostly because up until now I have only been able to tell everyone what doesn't work! Both Fran's and I can share funny stories of tuft test showing air flow out where it should be flowing in, some take offs where we couldn't get back on the ground quick enough due overheating and lots of work and re work.  

For me, I am still works in progress, but over the next winter I plan on a fourth iteration over next winter which will be a similar design to Fran’s. If I can persuade my friend Graham Singleton to come and visit, it might even a new carbon fiber cowling 



  

   

At a high level the sources of design material we used were:  

       Kays & London wedge diffuser 
        Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser
        Cooling design notes from the Central States Canard Group
        Taper diffuser design from the Canard group
         Oil Streaking presentations from the Central States Canard Group
        Think Vs. think radiator notes from Rotary Engine forums.
        Cooling Vs flow data from Rotax and Laminova 

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

   

Our design criteria was:  

Cooling that works in all phases of operation:  

       Ground
       Climb 
       Cruise

  

  

  

Operates over a range of -5c to 40c  

Offers the lowest drag possible  

   

This ultimately dictated a few design solutions:  





Cowl Flap.   

This is the only way we could get cooling over a large speed range and ambient temperature.  

   

Laminova liquid oil heat exchanger.  

In one of the design iterations that Fran's had created he had the oil and water radiators separated. Although this provided plenty of oil and liquid cooling it caused a long cycle time to bring the oil temperature up to operating temperature. The Laminova solves this problem.  One problem that Fran's and I have not been able to solve is the need for a small axillary oil radiator.  

   

Thick Vs. Thin Radiators.  

I was ultimately able to make the thick radiator work with a Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser, but I intend to abandon this. From our research we have discovered that 70 to 80% of the heat exchange occurs in the first 20mm of the radiator.  

   

Diffused Inlets.  

At first glance Fran's cowl appears to have no diffuser on the inlet side of the radiator, however it works very well.  After reading the design notes for the Kays & London wedge diffuser our hypothesis is that because the coolant radiator is at an angle to the relative wind it behaves like a wedge diffusers.  

   

Other thoughts & observations.  

Fran’s has been flying a working solution for nearly a year and his design can be used as is.  I am doing some experimentation with a single diffused inlet that provides the engine combustion air, inter cooler and the engine shroud.  Given the level of effort this has proved to be I wouldn’t recommend anyone copying what I have done, and it remains to be seen if it even works.  

Over next winter I plan on removing the thick radiator and I expect that this will be a lower drag configuration over what I have.  

Pointing the exhaust back is offers a lot of drag reduction. I have some photographs that show the exhaust plume on the old style exhaust shooting out nearly 2 meters.  For monowheel the exhaust needs to be much longer so that carbon monoxide does not find its way into cabin via the tunnel. Unfortunately this was complex bit of stainless steel to fabricate.  

When my cowling is fully open it is the same angle as the standard cowling.  I see 8 knots difference between fully open and fully closed.  This isn't an exact comparison because when my cowl flap is open air will spill around the side and I expect this would be higher drag than the original cowl.  I have done a number of long cross country trips and for the same manifold pressure settings I am seeing about 5 knots increase in my cruise.  I have Warp drive blades and I do not wing root fairings so my set up is not as efficient as Fran’s.

Regards, Paul  [quote][b]

budyerly(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 2:02 pm Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Lovely design...

 However, my comments are based on an installation that is stock.  Takes 40 hours from openning the box to engine fully installed and ready for start and is reapeatable with only the parts in the box.

 Esthetics aside, the dog box works but can be improved.

 Many do not care to have any auto systems such as heat exchangers which may malfunction.

 I do 146 at 5500/34 with a stock cowl.  

 By all means, an extra hundred hours and cost will get you those extra 9 knots.    It just costs money and time.

 The airplane is 20,000 compromises flying in close formation....Choose your changes wisely.  

 You have obviously enjoyed and profited from your changes.  Congrats.

Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations, Inc. www.customflightcreations.com (813) 653-4989

 	  Quote: 	
		   Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 14:04:55 +0200

 From: frans(at)privatepilots.nl

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Re: Contact detail & Help

 On 06/10/2012 06:21 AM, Bud Yerly wrote:

 > If I do say so myself, I never have cooling issues in Florida at 95

 > degree summer days using 50/50 Anitifreeze. Judging by the calls and

 > email success stories, these simple techniques work pretty much world wide.

 Although your solution might indeed work world wide it is less suitable

 for Europeans.

 There are a few reasons for this:

 1) Your solution is focussed on more cooling air flow. Unfortunately

 more cooling air also means more cooling drag. More cooling drag means

 that higher power settings are required to achieve a desired cruise

 speed. Although that might not be significant for those living in a part

 of the world where fuel prices are only a fraction from what it is here,

 for many of us here the fuel price is by far the largest cost involved

 with flying our Europa's.

 In another posting you wrote:

 "135 with the old pants at 5500/34 inches at 1000 MSL,"

 "His trigear only goes 130 at max cruise."

 I do 130 with 27", about 155 with 34". This is a heavy hi-top tri-gear.

 Although I selected a very efficient prop and have Fred Kleins wing root

 fairings, I believe that a large portion of the reduction in drag is

 achieved by my modified cooling system.

 2) Climate. I believe that in your area the weather is somewhat more

 constant than it is here. This month I have been flying in cruise mode

 in freezing temperature conditions (high altitude in Norway) and in

 prolonged full power climbs with 35C OAT (Croatia). Unless you use

 thermostats you can't achieve constant temperatures in all conditions.

 After numerous experiments this is what I have learned:

 0) Cooling drag is the main drag of modern efficient airplanes. Imagine

 the air swirling around in the cowling, colliding in all kind of

 obstacles, and flowing over tubular objects (worst airodynamic shape

 possible) and finally leaving the airplane in the wrong direction and

 with the wrong speed...

 1) The Rotax engine is for 95% liquid (oil, coolant) cooled. Forget

 about airflow over the engine, apart from the cylinder walls no cooling

 air is needed at all. Sure you can compensate for a poor liquid cooling

 with air flow, but it is extremely inefficient. Once you have the liquid

 cooling working correctly, you can close off all holes. That's right,

 ALL holes. This includes the two "eye's". the gills, the naca inlets,

 the nose wheel opening, everything. There is only one small opening

 needed to connect the Rotax shroud for cylinder wall cooling.

 2) The main problem in the stock setup is the radiator. The stock

 radiator is too thick (not even to mention the tandem design). The

 pressure difference required to maintain enough air flow is too large,

 and you need very large openings to keep enough air flowing. I have

 tried many carefully designed diffusers but I never got the stock

 radiator working sufficient enough for prolonged full power climbs in

 hot weather.

 3) Use an oil to water heat exchanger. This means that you have to focus

 on the air flow of only one radiator, and also don't need an oil

 thermostat and still have superfast warm-up times.

 4) Get away with the entire "dog house". It is ugly and it serves no

 purpose.

 5) Use an adjustable cowl flap to control engine temperatures.

 6) Reroute the exhaust so the cowl opening points to the rear. I tried

 to build an exhaust augmentor but I'm not sure if it really works. In

 any case, the cowling air escaping around the exhaust opening flows in

 the correct direction and doesn't upset the air stream.

 So. what I'm using now is a thin radiator, mounted flush with the

 underside of the cowling. (Custom made, 300 Euro's). It is slanted so it

 follows the shape of the cowling. Because of the angle the horizontal

 frontal area is very small, you can say it forms a natural diffuser.

 Flow is controlled by an exit cowl flap. If the air flow is restricted

 by the cowl flap, the air in front of the radiator even doesn't "see"

 the radiator, the air flows over the surface and follows the shape of

 the cowling as if the radiator doesn't exist at all.

 The air leaving the radiator is recycled because it flows under the

 engine, taking the heat of exhaust and turbo with it on its way out. No

 separate openings for these items are necessary.

 The coolant is also used to cool (or heat!) the oil via a heat

 exchanger. Apart from the heat-up time, the oil temperature is always 5C

 higher than the coolant temperature, which I consider to be perfect. I

 keep the water at 105C and the oil at 110C in all conditions. This is

 the best for the engine and the efficiency.

 For cylinder cooling you can use the standard Rotax shroud with the

 opening under the propeller. I made my own shroud because of the vaccuum

 pad alternator which prevents the use of the standard shroud, but the

 idea is similar.

 After one year of using this, I can state the following results:

 1) Adequate cooling in ALL conditions. I have excecuted a full power

 climb from 0ft to FL095 at 80 knots in an inversion layer with a OAT of

 35C for most of the trajectory, with the water temp not exceeding 110C

 and the oil not exceeding 120C. This was with the cowl flap not yet

 fully open. Although not yet tested, I'm convinced that the cooling

 would work ok in OAT's of 45C as well.

 2) In cruise the cowl flap is typically only half an inch open; i.e. it

 protrudes only a half inch below the belly of the airplane. Compare that

 with the huge tunnelexit of the stock XS design!

 3) Unlimited ground operations, even in very hot weather.

 4) Superfast heat-up times. 5 minutes is even in the winter sufficient

 to get the oil temp far enough up into the yellow arc to perform a take off.

 5) Low cowling temperatures, despite the lack of ventilation.

 Temperatures don't exceed 60C, except briefly after engine shut off. In

 hot weather I open the oil tank access door after landing for a few

 minutes to let the hot air out.

 6) Weight savings. I have not weighed the difference, but I'm sure the

 flat radiator and heat exchanger is lighter than the two stock radiators

 and tunnel hard ware.

 About the picture:

 This was the unfinished design. The final version is even smoother.

 The only exit opening here is the proptrusion of the "tunnel" against

 the belly of the fuselage. The nose wheel opening is sealed off and

 flush with the belly. The cowl flap can be extended further but this is

 the typical cruise setting. Quite a difference compared to the stock

 tunnel, eh?

 In addition of the rectangular radiator opening I have two round inlets.

 The one on the starboard side serves the intercooler for the turbo (via

 a wedge diffuser and butterfly valve). You don't need this inlet if you

 don't have an intercooler. The opening on the port side connects to the

 cylinder wall shrouds. You could use the standard Rotax shroud with the

 opening below the prop instead, but I made a round inlet on the port

 side to maintain the symmetry. In most setups you can ommit these round

 inlets. That would be an even cleaner nose!

 The starboard inlet also facilitates the engine air intake. The port

 inlet also connects to a very small auxilliary oil radiator. Without

 this radiator the water-oil delta T was 10C, and with the extra radiator

 I got my desired delta T of 5C. It is not really needed if you are

 satisfied with the standard delta T.

 On the top of the firewall you see a small servo, a similar model as the

 vertical trim servo. This servo connects via a rod to the cowl flap. The

 cowl flap hinges close to the radiator so even when it is fully open the

 angle is very low. A simple but very efficent mechanism!

 The front exhaust elbows are wrapped to save the cowling which is very

 close.

 If there is enough interest in this subject, I'm willing to write an

 article about it. There is a lot of testing, reading, thinking, and

 learning from failures behind this design.

 Although I have been flying a year with it now, I have only recently

 been able to test it in very hot and demanding conditions during our

 just finished round trip in Corsica, Italy and Croatia and overflying

 the Alps twice.

 More about that trip later.

 Frans

  [quote][b]

grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 2:44 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Paul

you know I can't resist temptation! I suspect that a bit of work re exdhaust extraction might

be profitable, it seems to work well on Long EZs, hoping to verify with flight testing in the next month.

Graham

        From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com 

 Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2012, 17:32

 Subject: Re: Re: Contact detail & Help

  

 

Ha ha.... I wondered who was going to be first out of the closet, me or Franâ€™s.  Franâ€™s and I have been collaborating on a journey of discovery for the last couple of years.  

  I have been reluctant to share what I have been doing, mostly because up until now I have only been able to tell everyone what doesn't work! Both Fran's and I can share funny stories of tuft test showing air flow out where it should be flowing in, some take offs where we couldn't get back on the ground quick enough due overheating and lots of work and re work.

  For me, I am still works in progress, but over the next winter I plan on a fourth iteration over next winter which will be a similar design to Franâ€™s. If I can persuade my friend Graham Singleton to come and visit, it might even a new carbon fiber cowling 

   

  At a high level the sources of design material we used were:

         Kays & London wedge diffuser 
        Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser
        Cooling design notes from the Central States Canard Group
        Taper diffuser design from the Canard group
         Oil Streaking presentations from the Central States Canard Group
        Think Vs. think radiator notes from Rotary Engine forums.
        Cooling Vs flow data from Rotax and Laminova                

  Our design criteria was:

  Cooling that works in all phases of operation:

         Ground
       Climb 
       Cruise      Operates over a range of -5c to 40c

  Offers the lowest drag possible

   

  This ultimately dictated a few design solutions:

  



Cowl Flap. 

  This is the only way we could get cooling over a large speed range and ambient temperature.

   

  Laminova liquid oil heat exchanger.

  In one of the design iterations that Fran's had created he had the oil and water radiators separated. Although this provided plenty of oil and liquid cooling it caused a long cycle time to bring the oil temperature up to operating temperature. The Laminova solves this problem.  One problem that Fran's and I have not been able to solve is the need for a small axillary oil radiator.

   

  Thick Vs. Thin Radiators.

  I was ultimately able to make the thick radiator work with a Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser, but I intend to abandon this. From our research we have discovered that 70 to 80% of the heat exchange occurs in the first 20mm of the radiator.

   

  Diffused Inlets.

  At first glance Fran's cowl appears to have no diffuser on the inlet side of the radiator, however it works very well.  After reading the design notes for the Kays & London wedge diffuser our hypothesis is that because the coolant radiator is at an angle to the relative wind it behaves like a wedge diffusers.

   

  Other thoughts & observations.

  Franâ€™s has been flying a working solution for nearly a year and his design can be used as is.  I am doing some experimentation with a single diffused inlet that provides the engine combustion air, inter cooler and the engine shroud.  Given the level of effort this has proved to be I wouldnâ€™t recommend anyone copying what I have done, and it remains to be seen if it even works.

  Over next winter I plan on removing the thick radiator and I expect that this will be a lower drag configuration over what I have.

  Pointing the exhaust back is offers a lot of drag reduction. I have some photographs that show the exhaust plume on the old style exhaust shooting out nearly 2 meters.  For monowheel the exhaust needs to be much longer so that carbon monoxide does not find its way into cabin via the tunnel. Unfortunately this was complex bit of stainless steel to fabricate.

  When my cowling is fully open it is the same angle as the standard cowling.  I see 8 knots difference between fully open and fully closed.  This isn't an exact comparison because when my cowl flap is open air will spill around the side and I expect this would be higher drag than the original cowl.  I have done a number of long cross country trips and for the same manifold pressure settings I am seeing about 5 knots increase in my cruise.  I have Warp drive blades and I do not wing root fairings so my set up is not as efficient as Franâ€™s.

Regards, Paul

  [quote]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com</ rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/contri===


[b]

paul.the.aviator(at)gmail
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:45 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

Hello Graham,



Frans has attempted this with his design, but for a mono wheel there is a

very real chance of CO entering the airplane through the tunnel.



Exhaust augmentation / extraction makes a whole range of issues go away.

Ground cooling gets better the faster the engine runs, and as I understand

it from the Long EZ guys, you no longer need to diffuse the inlet airstream

grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 10:19 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

agree with all you  say, however: I used to get exhaust gas in cabin without it, it probably got in via the flap slots. There must be a significant drag penalty from the exhaust plume squirting out vertical to the airflow.



Graham



        From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>

 To: europa-list(at)matronics.com 

 Sent: Saturday, 23 June 2012, 14:44

 Subject: Re: Re: Contact detail & Help

  

 

Hello Graham,



Frans has attempted this with his design, but for a mono wheel there is a very real chance of CO entering the airplane through the tunnel.



Exhaust augmentation / extraction makes a whole range of issues go away.  Ground cooling gets better the faster the engine runs, and as I understand it from the Long EZ guys, you no longer need to diffuse the inlet airstream.

 

Alas, I am with Bud on this.... time for tinkering is long over.  I would guess with research and building that Frans and I have spent many hundreds of hours and its time to go flying 



Cheers, Paul



 On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 5:44 AM, GRAHAM SINGLETON <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com (grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com)> wrote:

[quote] Paul

you know I can't resist temptation! I suspect that a bit of work re exdhaust extraction might

 be profitable, it seems to work well on Long EZs, hoping to verify with flight testing in the next month.

Graham

         From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com (paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com)>

  To: europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com) 

 Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2012, 17:32 

 Subject: Re: Re: Contact detail & Help

 

 

 

Ha ha.... I wondered who was going to be first out of the closet, me or Franâ€™s.  Franâ€™s and I have been collaborating on a journey of discovery for the last couple of years.  

  I have been reluctant to share what I have been doing, mostly because up until now I have only been able to tell everyone what doesn't work! Both Fran's and I can share funny stories of tuft test showing air flow out where it should be flowing in, some take offs where we couldn't get back on the ground quick enough due overheating and lots of work and re work.

  For me, I am still works in progress, but over the next winter I plan on a fourth iteration over next winter which will be a similar design to Franâ€™s. If I can persuade my friend Graham Singleton to come and visit, it might even a new carbon fiber cowling 

   

  At a high level the sources of design material we used were:

         Kays & London wedge diffuser 
        Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser
        Cooling design notes from the Central States Canard Group
        Taper diffuser design from the Canard group
         Oil Streaking presentations from the Central States Canard Group
        Think Vs. think radiator notes from Rotary Engine forums.
        Cooling Vs flow data from Rotax and Laminova                

  Our design criteria was:

  Cooling that works in all phases of operation:

         Ground
       Climb  
       Cruise      Operates over a range of -5c to 40c

  Offers the lowest drag possible

   

  This ultimately dictated a few design solutions:

  



Cowl Flap. 

  This is the only way we could get cooling over a large speed range and ambient temperature.

   

  Laminova liquid oil heat exchanger.

  In one of the design iterations that Fran's had created he had the oil and water radiators separated. Although this provided plenty of oil and liquid cooling it caused a long cycle time to bring the oil temperature up to operating temperature. The Laminova solves this problem.  One problem that Fran's and I have not been able to solve is the need for a small axillary oil radiator.

   

  Thick Vs. Thin Radiators.

  I was ultimately able to make the thick radiator work with a Kuchemann & Weber trumpet diffuser, but I intend to abandon this. From our research we have discovered that 70 to 80% of the heat exchange occurs in the first 20mm of the radiator.

   

  Diffused Inlets.

  At first glance Fran's cowl appears to have no diffuser on the inlet side of the radiator, however it works very well.  After reading the design notes for the Kays & London wedge diffuser our hypothesis is that because the coolant radiator is at an angle to the relative wind it behaves like a wedge diffusers.

   

  Other thoughts & observations.

  Franâ€™s has been flying a working solution for nearly a year and his design can be used as is.  I am doing some experimentation with a single diffused inlet that provides the engine combustion air, inter cooler and the engine shroud.  Given the level of effort this has proved to be I wouldnâ€™t recommend anyone copying what I have done, and it remains to be seen if it even works.

  Over next winter I plan on removing the thick radiator and I expect that this will be a lower drag configuration over what I have.

  Pointing the exhaust back is offers a lot of drag reduction. I have some photographs that show the exhaust plume on the old style exhaust shooting out nearly 2 meters.  For monowheel the exhaust needs to be much longer so that carbon monoxide does not find its way into cabin via the tunnel. Unfortunately this was complex bit of stainless steel to fabricate.

  When my cowling is fully open it is the same angle as the standard cowling.  I see 8 knots difference between fully open and fully closed.  This isn't an exact comparison because when my cowl flap is open air will spill around the side and I expect this would be higher drag than the original cowl.  I have done a number of long cross country trips and for the same manifold pressure settings I am seeing about 5 knots increase in my cruise.  I have Warp drive blades and I do not wing root fairings so my set up is not as efficient as Franâ€™s.

Regards, Paul

  



 	  Quote: 	
		  http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com




arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List

tp://forums.matronics.com

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frans(at)privatepilots.nl
Guest

Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:38 am Post subject: Contact detail & Help

On 06/23/2012 12:01 AM, Bud Yerly wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   Lovely design...


	


Thanks!



 	  Quote: 	
		   However, my comments are based on an installation that is stock.  Takes

 40 hours from openning the box to engine fully installed and ready for

 start and is reapeatable with only the parts in the box.


	


My solution would be even faster to build, if they would change the

contents of the box of course. It puzzles me why the contents of the box

has not been changed long time ago, when people started to complain

about inadequate cooling.



 	  Quote: 	
		   Many do not care to have any auto systems such as heat exchangers which

 may malfunction.


	


There is no auto system involved. The heat exchanger is just two fluid

channels thermo coupled to each other. No moving parts, no electronic

parts, just similar to a radiator, but now with two fluid channels

instead of one fluid and one gas channel.



 	  Quote: 	
		   By all means, an extra hundred hours and cost will get you those extra 9

 knots.    It just costs money and time.


	


This argument is silly. Then why applying a finish on the airplane and

not painting the raw fabric? It just costs money and time to apply a

finish, for only 9 knots of speed or so.



9 knots of speed:

1) The difference between a mono and tri gear.

2) equals to 10% fuel savings when flying with equal speeds.

10% fuel saving means:

1) About 10% lower operational costs.

2) About 5 Kg's (10 lbs) of weight saving for the same flying distance

because you need to carry less fuel.

3) A 10% larger range on a full tank.



 	  Quote: 	
		   The airplane is 20,000 compromises flying in close formation....Choose

 your changes wisely. 


	


If I wanted a stock airplane and didn't care about speed, I would

probably be flying a Cessna 152.



Frans

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