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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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 Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 12:44 am Post subject: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
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Jeffery:
Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com (jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com)> wrote:
[quote] Dear List,
I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
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ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
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mhubel
Joined: 05 Sep 2009
Posts: 141
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| Posted: Fri Jul 13, 2012 3:57 am Post subject: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
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Barry,
Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a link.
Mark Hubelbank
Ch601XL-B
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich adj prop
Rotec TBI-40-3
240 Hours airframe
On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
[quote]Jeffery:
Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com (jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Dear List,
I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
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[b]
| | - The Matronics JabiruEngine-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List |
|
_________________
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40-3 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
240 hr TAF
Pictures at photo.hubbles.com |
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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| Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 5:59 am Post subject: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
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Mark:
I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material, but here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is the internal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They will know what you are talking about.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
Barry
On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <mhubel(at)nemon.com (mhubel(at)nemon.com)> wrote:
[quote] Barry,
Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a link.
Mark Hubelbank
Ch601XL-B
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich adj prop
Rotec TBI-40-3
240 Hours airframe
On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
| Quote: | Jeffery:
Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com (jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Dear List,
I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
|
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics JabiruEngine-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List |
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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| Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:02 am Post subject: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
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Mark:
Here is a picture of the internal ramps.
Barry
[img]https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQmt1eruI6i9nDzDMMAMfz0E1MUhHSmKLoofIZA_wDexhI5c7BABA[/img]
On Sat, Jul 14, 2012 at 9:58 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Mark:
I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material, but here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is the internal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They will know what you are talking about.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
Barry
On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <mhubel(at)nemon.com (mhubel(at)nemon.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Barry,
Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a link.
Mark Hubelbank
Ch601XL-B
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich adj prop
Rotec TBI-40-3
240 Hours airframe
On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
| Quote: | Jeffery:
Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com (jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Dear List,
I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
|
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
[b]
| | - The Matronics JabiruEngine-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List |
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info(at)flylightning.net
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:08 pm Post subject: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
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The ramps work well with RV cowl since the top of the engine is sealed to the cowl with baffles. Making one large plenum on the top of the engine. The provided airducts from jaboru work very well when installed correctly. Besure that the plenums fit tightly between the cylinder fins and extend down between the barrles. Do not trim flush with the tops of the barrles. Also the front of the airduct must have a flat face againt the first clyinder, this goes from the bottom of the plenum to about the center head bolt, maybe 3" tall. Each cylinder needs its own dam installed above it. Usually cyl 5 and 6 have factory installed dams, trim to fit around the head but do not remove any more than needed. Clyinders 3 and 4 need about 3/8" to 1/2" tall dam. Cly 1 usually needs nothing and Cly 2 about 1/8". Its all about pressure difference too, make sure your exit area at the bottomw of the cowl is about 2.5 time the inlet area. If this is the case than make sure the lower cowl has about a 2" fixed cowl flap for the entire exit lip. I have a few hours in a 601xl with the older engine, thick fin heads solid lifter, and it cooled very well on a hot TN day.
Thanks
Nick
Sent from my pocket
On Jul 14, 2012, at 9:02 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]Mark:
Here is a picture of the internal ramps.
Barry
[img]https://encrypted-tbn1.google.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQmt1eruI6i9nDzDMMAMfz0E1MUhHSmKLoofIZA_wDexhI5c7BABA[/img]
On Sat, Jul 14, 2012 at 9:58 AM, FLYaDIVE <[url=mailto:flyadive(at)gmail.com]flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)[/url]> wrote:
| Quote: | Mark:
I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material, but here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is the internal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They will know what you are talking about.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
Barry
On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <[url=mailto:mhubel(at)nemon.com]mhubel(at)nemon.com (mhubel(at)nemon.com)[/url]> wrote:
| Quote: | Barry,
Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a link.
Mark Hubelbank
Ch601XL-B
Jabiru 3300
Sensenich adj prop
Rotec TBI-40-3
240 Hours airframe
On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
| Quote: | Jeffery:
Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try.
Barry
On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <[url=mailto:jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com]jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com (jeffrey-j-paris(at)excite.com)[/url]> wrote:
| Quote: | Dear List,
I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Thanks for your time and consideration.
Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
|
ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
|
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st">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
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ums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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