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Rear baffling

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Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 10:30 am Post subject: Rear baffling

What is the consensus on rear cowling baffle length. I think mine is 2inches and I see fold marks where air might be escaping. Is shorter better?



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_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 6:00 pm Post subject: Rear baffling

Not sure on what length you are referring to.  The thumb rule I know is

there should be 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the top of the baffle

aluminum backing plate and the cowl.  The baffle material will of course be

longer to both extend below the top and attach to the aluminum plate, bridge

the gap to the cowl and have another inch or more to bend over to form with

the top of the cowl so that it does not get blown out from the cowl intake

air.



Carl



--

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:28 am Post subject: Rear baffling

Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past. It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other side though. 



Sent from my iPhone



On Jan 16, 2013, at 18:59, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)verizon.net> wrote:



[quote] 

 

 Not sure on what length you are referring to.  The thumb rule I know is

 there should be 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the top of the baffle

 aluminum backing plate and the cowl.  The baffle material will of course be

 longer to both extend below the top and attach to the aluminum plate, bridge

 the gap to the cowl and have another inch or more to bend over to form with

 the top of the cowl so that it does not get blown out from the cowl intake

 air.

 

 Carl

 

 --

_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 9:00 am Post subject: Rear baffling

I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so

I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all

baffling curved inward to form a chamber.  Shorter would make it

stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.

I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's

supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are

a tad thicker, which may change things too.  At any rate,

I'd think that yours are probably normal length.  Mine are cut

into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting

as pleats because of the curve of the seal.  If you have a

one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the

flexibility enough to make a good seal.  By getting the slits

and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.



Tim



On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from

 the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.

 It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was

 shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other

 side though.

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:05 am Post subject: Rear baffling

I went with the silicone and love it. It worked suprisingly well.  A bit 

thicker and with alot more body. A minimal number of separate pieces to 

complete the job. The corners worked well.   Looks great and would seem 

to wear very well.  Very well sealed.



Recently, I was having some trouble with my custom latch on my oil 

door.  One of the things I added was some of the silicone baffling 

material around the oil door to seal it up.  Previously, the air 

pressure would significantly deform the door by pushing the edges out.  

Adding strips of silicone reduced that significantly.  Need a pic or two.



Bill



On 1/17/2013 11:59 AM, Tim Olson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's

 supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are

 a tad thicker, which may change things too.  At any rate,

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:19 am Post subject: Rear baffling

Bill,  

I'm very interested in your oil door pics. I have the aftermarket hinge too and can see the edges bulging at cruise speeds. I've been thinking of ways to fix this. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:04, Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 I went with the silicone and love it. It worked suprisingly well.  A bit thicker and with alot more body. A minimal number of separate pieces to complete the job. The corners worked well.   Looks great and would seem to wear very well.  Very well sealed.

 Recently, I was having some trouble with my custom latch on my oil door.  One of the things I added was some of the silicone baffling material around the oil door to seal it up.  Previously, the air pressure would significantly deform the door by pushing the edges out.  Adding strips of silicone reduced that significantly.  Need a pic or two.

 Bill

 On 1/17/2013 11:59 AM, Tim Olson wrote:

> 

> 

> I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's

> supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are

> a tad thicker, which may change things too.  At any rate,

_________________
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 12:11 pm Post subject: Rear baffling

You might want to consider the McFarlane cowl saver silicone. It is treated on one side so that it is slippery to the cowling, avoiding transfer of vibration and wear to the cowl. Of  course it costs a bit more. You will need to figure from your originals how much you need, as you don't want to pay for a lot left over.

 

On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 

 I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so

 I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all

 baffling curved inward to form a chamber.  Shorter would make it

 stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.

 I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's

 supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are

 a tad thicker, which may change things too.  At any rate,

 I'd think that yours are probably normal length.  Mine are cut

 into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting

 as pleats because of the curve of the seal.  If you have a

 one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the

 flexibility enough to make a good seal.  By getting the slits

 and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.

 

 Tim

 

 On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   --> RV10-List message posted by: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com (sean(at)braunandco.com)>

 

 Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from

 the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.

 It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was

 shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other

 side though.

 

 	
 

 



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[b]

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Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 6:26 pm Post subject: Rear baffling

The Cowl Saver material from McFarlane is what I used.  One area I could not get it to conform and fit right was at the front of the engine around the intake openings and around the front of the case.  There I used the supplied Vans material and glued a strip of the cowl saver material on the inside of the top cowling where the Vans material meets the cowl.  I can't remember how mush I purchased feet wise but it was around $100 and I feel will be well worth the added expense in vibration reduction.



David Clifford



RV-10 Builder

Howell,  MI

From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2(at)gmail.com>

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 3:11:25 PM

Subject: Re: Rear baffling



You might want to consider the McFarlane cowl saver silicone. It is treated on one side so that it is slippery to the cowling, avoiding transfer of vibration and wear to the cowl. Of  course it costs a bit more. You will need to figure from your originals how much you need, as you don't want to pay for a lot left over.

 

On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>

 

 I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so

 I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all

 baffling curved inward to form a chamber.  Shorter would make it

 stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.

 I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's

 supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are

 a tad thicker, which may change things too.  At any rate,

 I'd think that yours are probably normal length.  Mine are cut

 into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting

 as pleats because of the curve of the seal.  If you have a

 one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the

 flexibility enough to make a good seal.  By getting the slits

 and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.

 

 Tim

 

 On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		   --> RV10-List message posted by: Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com (sean(at)braunandco.com)>

 

 Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from

 the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.

 It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was

 shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other

 side though.

 

 	
 

 



 ====================================

 arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ====================================

 http://forums.matronics.com

 ====================================

 le, List Admin.

 ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ====================================

 

 

 

 







get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

tp://forums.matronics.com

_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



[b]

Strasnuts

Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 502
Location: Salt Lake City, UT

Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 7:18 pm Post subject: Rear baffling

Thanks for the input.  I may try this and use  my old stuff as patterns.

 [quote]   ---

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RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours

Ron B.

Joined: 17 Feb 2009
Posts: 103
Location: Nova Scotia

Posted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:38 pm Post subject: Re: Rear baffling

I ended up spending a lot of time bending a (I think it was.090") thick piece of alum. the shape of the cowl and now have a great oil door. I had to stiffen it also.

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