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LED landing light filter experiment

 
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:30 am    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

A reader sent me a pair of high intensity LED fixtures after he
discovered that they generated an unacceptable radio noise level.

http://tinyurl.com/aytljbg

I jury-rigged a filter from components I use on the BuckPuk supplies
and mounted it to the back of the fixture on short leads.

[img]cid:7.1.0.9.0.20130123131905.01e43b70(at)aeroelectric.com.0[/img]


The reduction of noise at 130 MHz is pronounced. I estimate
30 dB or better. Unfortunately, I've misplaced my set of
precision attenuators so I'm unable to make a quantitative
A vs. B comparison for effectiveness of the filter.

Fortunately, they're cheap. I've ordered some that should be
in early next week. I can put some real numbers on the
experiment then.

The goal is to head off the noise effects at the source. Wiring
to the airplane will be ordinary, off-the-spool unshielded wire.
When I'm ready to send these back to try on his airplane, I'll
try them out on my '87 GMC truck to see how they compare with the stock
headlights.

Watch this space.


Bob . . .


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james(at)etravel.org
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:56 am    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Nice work Bob.  Do you mind me asking... what is about these LED lights that makes them so noisy?  In my head, LEDs are completely inert and therefore wouldn't create any interference.

On 23 January 2013 19:28, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
Quote:
A reader sent me a pair of high intensity LED fixtures after he
discovered that they generated an unacceptable radio noise level.

http://tinyurl.com/aytljbg

I jury-rigged a filter from components I use on the BuckPuk supplies
and mounted it to the back of the fixture on short leads.

[img]cid:7.1.0.9.0.20130123131905.01e43b70(at)aeroelectric.com.0[/img]


The reduction of noise at 130 MHz is pronounced. I estimate
30 dB or better. Unfortunately, I've misplaced my set of
precision attenuators so I'm unable to make a quantitative
 A vs. B comparison for effectiveness of the filter.

Fortunately, they're cheap. I've ordered some that should be
in early next week. I can put some real numbers on the
experiment then.

The goal is to head off the noise effects at the source. Wiring
to the airplane will be ordinary, off-the-spool unshielded wire.
When I'm ready to send these back to try on his airplane, I'll
try them out on my '87 GMC truck to see how they compare with the stock
headlights.

Watch this space.


  Bob . . .


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uuccio(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 12:25 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Hi Bob,
If you get satisfactory results from this, I for one would be very interested.
Sacha


On 23/gen/2013, at 19:28, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:

[quote] A reader sent me a pair of high intensity LED fixtures after he
discovered that they generated an unacceptable radio noise level.

http://tinyurl.com/aytljbg

I jury-rigged a filter from components I use on the BuckPuk supplies
and mounted it to the back of the fixture on short leads.

<9bf4435.jpg>


The reduction of noise at 130 MHz is pronounced. I estimate
30 dB or better. Unfortunately, I've misplaced my set of
precision attenuators so I'm unable to make a quantitative
A vs. B comparison for effectiveness of the filter.

Fortunately, they're cheap. I've ordered some that should be
in early next week. I can put some real numbers on the
experiment then.

The goal is to head off the noise effects at the source. Wiring
to the airplane will be ordinary, off-the-spool unshielded wire.
When I'm ready to send these back to try on his airplane, I'll
try them out on my '87 GMC truck to see how they compare with the stock
headlights.

Watch this space.


Bob . . .
[b]


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:09 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

At 02:24 PM 1/23/2013, you wrote:
Quote:
Hi Bob,
If you get satisfactory results from this, I for one would be very
interested.
Sacha


Whether or not this particular configuration is
the dragon slayer remains to be seen . . . but
the dragon will be slain.

Bob . . .


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:09 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

At 01:54 PM 1/23/2013, you wrote:
Quote:
Nice work Bob. Â Do you mind me asking... what is about these LED lights that makes them so noisy? Â In my head, LEDs are completely inert and therefore wouldn't create any interference.

You are, of course, correct. The LEDs are very quiet.
Not zero noise . . . the electrical activity in the
light emitting junction is pretty frenetic. But
the aperture (antenna area) is very tiny so it's
hard to detect . . . much less a risk for a noise
source.

The problem is that LEDs are CURRENT operated
devices. You're probably familiar with the ubiquitous
resistor wired in series with an LED to SET the
current flowing through the device. To light an
red LED (typical voltage drop on the order of
2 volts) from a 14v bus, you have to pick a resistor
that causes the desired LED current to flow (30 mA)
with a DROP of 12 volts. This means that the series
resistor dissipates 6 TIMES as much energy as the
LED . . . but it's so small as to be insignificant.

POWER LEDs will demand much larger current values.
Consider this device

http://tinyurl.com/a2sggv4

which is rated at 10 watts. Note that it's rated
to operate at 3 amps so one would guess that
the operating voltage is about 3.3 volts (typical
for white). So, using a simple series resistor
for 14 volt systems would dissipate 30 watts . . .
NOT insignificant.

The elegant solution demands a special kind of
DC to DC converter. VARIABLE voltage input
(say 10 to 16 volts) and CONSTANT current
output (3 A). Now, we can hook perhaps 3 to
6 lamps in series (10 to 20 volt operation)
but at a constant current.

This bit of electronic magic is ALWAYS
noisy. Your computer, tv, and countless
other appliances have similar power supplies
but they're generally qualified to FCC part
15 rules for expected but limited emissions.
No so with LED lamp fixtures from Fuzzy Joe's
Motorcycle shop . . . or 24xydiy.com either.

We had some discussions here on the list about
LED position lights wherein a number of
builders using a particular DIY kit were
experiencing radio noise from the LuxDrive
power supplies recommended for the installation.

This prompted development of the filtered version
of the LuxDrive part which I've offered now
for several years



This board is the foundation for the experimental filter
I crafted for the aforementioned experiment. This jeeped
experiment may not be the ideal way to go for an on-purpose
filter but then, the then, the boards are already fabricated
and in stock.

Our very own Eric Jones offers an LED based tail light

http://tinyurl.com/b377jtv

Which has enjoyed the benefits of creative tailoring to
the task and generates no objectionable noises.



Bob . . . [quote][b]


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wynaire(at)citlink.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 10:16 am    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Bob:
1. Why do we LED DIY-fer's need an LED driver for a 12 vdc [forward voltage] LED [10 Watt] when we have a clean 12 vdc source [aircraft]?
Answering my own question, maybe: Is it primarily to provide minimum ripple current to the driven LED?

2. What is the simplest way to detect HF noise from an LED; maybe an FM or AM radio receiver, or better yet, an aircraft nav/com receiver?
Trying to KIS.. Wink
Thanks in advance,
Mike W
Moab
*********
[quote] ---


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Bob McC



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 258
Location: Toronto, ON

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 11:04 am    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Because an LED is not a voltage driven device. It is a current driven device. The required "driver" is a current source. If your 10 watt LED has a forward voltage drop of 2 volts and is designed to be driven by lets say 5 amps of current then without a current driver to regulate that current you would need to add a resistor to drop the other 10 volts of your 12 volt source. This means 10 volts being dropped by 5 amps through a resistor or 50 watts of heat. (Pretty big HOT resistor) So much for the power saving of the LED. Your "10 watt" LED is now consuming 60 watts. If you use a "driver" to regulate the current the losses within the driver are minimal and your 10 watt LED consumes approximatly 10 watts. Also with a resistor to regulate current what happens when your voltage is 14.5 being supported by the alternator? Now you power consumption goes even higher and you risk overdriving the LED wheras with a "driver" the current remains constant at the design level.

Bob McC

(I'm sure the "other" Bob can explain it better, but that's the jist of it.)
From: wynaire(at)citlink.net
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: LED landing light filter experiment
Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:14:30 -0700

Bob:
1. Why do we LED DIY-fer's need an LED driver for a 12 vdc [forward voltage] LED [10 Watt] when we have a clean 12 vdc source [aircraft]?
Answering my own question, maybe: Is it primarily to provide minimum ripple current to the driven LED?
 
2. What is the simplest way to detect HF noise from an LED; maybe an FM or AM  radio receiver, or better yet, an aircraft nav/com receiver? 
Trying to KIS.. Wink
Thanks in advance,
Mike W
Moab
*********
[quote] ---


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_________________
Bob McC
Falco #908
(just starting)
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:28 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Quote:


2. What is the simplest way to detect HF noise from an LED; maybe an FM or AM radio receiver, or better yet, an aircraft nav/com receiver?
Trying to KIS.. Wink

There was a time when an airplane might have
several kinds of receivers vulnerable to radiated
and conducted signals from potential antagonists.
In order of spectrum they would have included
ADF/AM Broadcast receivers, Loran, HF communications,
Marker Beacon, VOR/LOC, VHF Comm, Glideslope
all topped off with DME, transponders and GPS.

That list is certainly diminished. Most OBAM
builders radios of interest are limited to
VOR/LOC, VHF Comm, Glideslope, Xpndr and
GPS. Each potential victim presents a unique
signature and magnitude for immunity to extraneous
signals.

The easiest way to test for vulnerability is
in flight and testing each potential victim
at the fringes of its normal performance range.
See if turning the antagonist on/off makes any
observable difference in performance.

This real-life/in-situ A-B comparison requires
no calibration of measurement. Obviously, the
hand held or bench receiver with some sort of
'sniffer' antenna can be used to see if any noise
can be detected . . . but the noise being heard
may not be so strong as to be significant.

The tests I'm performing now use a filtered and
an unfiltered LED assembly. The detector is a full
coverage communications receiver with a precision
attenuator between the receiver and the sense
antenna. The filtered lamp assembly is fired up
and a noise level measurement taken on the receiver's
strength meter. I then turn on the unfiltered
device (which is stronger) and then switch in
values of attenuation until the receiver sees
the same level of noise. The value of attenuation
tells me how GOOD the filter is. I.E. the noise
a some frequency of interest is reduced by XX
dB. 30 dB is a factor of 1000 reduction.

Now, putting real numbers on those signal strengths
is a separate experiment. The experiment cited
only speaks to filter effectiveness and says nothing
about gross numbers for the radiated noise.

Hand held, un-calibrated detectors are very handy
for detecting the presence of noise and to a
limited degree, measuring the efficacy of a noise
reduction technique. The REAL test is to fly it
and see how the antagonist system affects the
victim in a weak signal situation. A noise you
can detect with a hand-held transceiver may not
be significant in the real world.

Bob . . .



Bob . . . [quote][b]


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wynaire(at)citlink.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 2:20 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Thanks Bob.
I'm with you for about 75% of the electro-magic here.
My real world [table top] on the test bench: My design rated 12 vdc 6000k LED [with heat sink attached] is working very well "pulling 10 vdc and 500 ma." Power supply is a Micronta Dual Tracking Adjustable DC Power Supply. If I understand you correctly, the main (only?) reason that I should add another component [the LED driver] is to insure a steady-state current supply to my LED? PS: My final lighting goal is to use these (mounted under FAA-PMA red, green & clear glass lens) for wing-tip and tail nav lights, and to strobe them (white) at the same positions.

Your thoughts are sincerely appreciated. There is only so much that one can gain from studying texts... Wink

Mike
********
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:36 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

At 04:13 PM 1/25/2013, you wrote:
Quote:
Thanks Bob. Â Appreciate the explanation. Â

On the subject of Eric, I seem to recall that it was he who recommended flexible LED strips instead of my noisy EL wire for cockpit lighting. Â

These run on 12V... are they likely to produce noise in the same way then?Â

No . . . those are the same kind of strips I was
talking about some months back. I've got about
8 feet of that strip material in two rows on the
' under side of a kitchen cabinet to replace a 40-year
old, 18W fluorescent fixture. These strips
are an array of 3 lamps and a resistor in
series parallel with each trio spread out over
about 2" of strip. Are these red lights? Usable
light at 7.5 volts suggests that the threshold
of 2v x 3 lamps (6v) gives you about 1.5 volts
of drop across the installed resistor to set
the operating current.



Quote:
I'm guessing not, because in testing them the other day, they produced the right level of light at about 7.5V and drew hardly any current at all -- less then 0.01A, according to my bench PSU.

Yep. These lamps are biased up using the 'simple' but
inefficient configuration where the losses are
acceptably insignificant. No noisy switch
mode power supply necessary.

The lamps we're wrestling with are arrays in the
25 to 35 watt class used for position lights,
landing/taxi lights and perhaps strobes.

They DO have power supplies that WILL be noisy
if not properly filtered.

Bob . . .


Quote:
James


On 23 January 2013 23:06, Robert L. Nuckolls, III < nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
At 01:54 PM 1/23/2013, you wrote:
Quote:
Nice work Bob. Â Do you mind me asking... what is about these LED lights that makes them so noisy? Â In my head, LEDs are completely inert and therefore wouldn't create any interference.

 You are, of course, correct. The LEDs are very quiet.
 Not zero noise . . . the electrical activity in the
 light emitting junction is pretty frenetic. But
 the aperture (antenna area) is very tiny so it's
 hard to detect . . . much less a risk for a noise
 source.

 The problem is that LEDs are CURRENT operated
 devices. You're probably familiar with the ubiquitous
 resistor wired in series with an LED to SET the
 current flowing through the device. To light an
 red LED (typical voltage drop on the order of
 2 volts) from a 14v bus, you have to pick a resistor
 that causes the desired LED current to flow (30 mA)
 with a DROP of 12 volts. This means that the series
 resistor dissipates 6 TIMES as much energy as the
 LED . . . but it's so small as to be insignificant.

 POWER LEDs will demand much larger current values.
 Consider this device

http://tinyurl.com/a2sggv4

 which is rated at 10 watts. Note that it's rated
 to operate at 3 amps so one would guess that
 the operating voltage is about 3.3 volts (typical
 for white). So, using a simple series resistor
 for 14 volt systems would dissipate 30 watts . . .
 NOT insignificant.

 The elegant solution demands a special kind of
 DC to DC converter. VARIABLE voltage input
 (say 10 to 16 volts) and CONSTANT current
 output (3 A). Now, we can hook perhaps 3 to
 6 lamps in series (10 to 20 volt operation)
 but at a constant current.

 This bit of electronic magic is ALWAYS
 noisy. Your computer, tv, and countless
 other appliances have similar power supplies
 but they're generally qualified to FCC part
 15 rules for expected but limited emissions.
 No so with LED lamp fixtures from Fuzzy Joe's
 Motorcycle shop . . . or 24xydiy.com either.

 We had some discussions here on the list about
 LED position lights wherein a number of
 builders using a particular DIY kit were
 experiencing radio noise from the LuxDrive
 power supplies recommended for the installation.

 This prompted development of the filtered version
 of the LuxDrive part which I've offered now
 for several years

Â

 This board is the foundation for the experimental filter
 I crafted for the aforementioned experiment. This jeeped
 experiment may not be the ideal way to go for an on-purpose
 filter but then, the then, the boards are already fabricated
 and in stock.

 Our very own Eric Jones offers an LED based tail light

http://tinyurl.com/b377jtv

 Which has enjoyed the benefits of creative tailoring to
 the task and generates no objectionable noises.



 Bob . . .

Quote:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:48 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

At 04:19 PM 1/25/2013, you wrote:
Quote:
Thanks Bob.
I'm with you for about 75% of the electro-magic here.
My real world [table top] on the test bench: My design rated 12 vdc 6000k LED [with heat sink attached] is working very well "pulling 10 vdc and 500 ma." Power supply is a Micronta Dual Tracking Adjustable DC Power Supply. If I understand you correctly, the main (only?) reason that I should add another component [the LED driver] is to insure a steady-state current supply to my LED? PS: My final lighting goal is to use these (mounted under FAA-PMA red, green & clear glass lens) for wing-tip and tail nav lights, and to strobe them (white) at the same positions.

Your thoughts are sincerely appreciated. There is only so much that one can gain from studying texts... Wink

Are you using any series resistance in your installtion?
How do you intend to establish and maintain the desired
500 mA operating point? What the rated operating current
for the device. Are these white lights that you're going
to filter into red and green? Keep in mind that filters
of white light are VERY inefficient. They block a majority
of the lamp's total output allowing only the desired color
to pass. If you use leds designed to produce red and green
light, then no filtering (with attendant losses) are
necessary.

But assuming that you DO use three such arrays at 500
ma each. Then you need to drop about 5 volts in a resistor
in series with each array for 2.5 watts each. That's
7.5 watts tossed off in heat for each fixture with 15 watts
being used by the lamps. Should the alternator quit,
your bus drops to 12v and you now bias each array at
only 200 mA for a 60% drop in light output.

Now, if you hook all the lamps in series and power them
with a 500 mA constant current switchmode supply, the
light output can remain constant throughout an operating
range of 10 to 15 volts for the bus with only a couple of
watts tossed off by the supply. That's what these guys
do for the OBAM aircraft position lights that were being
discussed here on the list a few years back. This particular
supply will put out any practical excitation value between
100 and 1000 mA . . . and is filtered.




Bob . . . [quote][b]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:45 am    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies.
I cannot answer your first questions until further education on my part. However, by re-reading your para 2 & 3, the fog is thinning! Thanks.

Currently there are no resisters in series with the LED. The "operating point" will be the aircraft battery / alternator system buss. Apparently your "switch mode supply" handles well any voltage fluctuation event, as referenced in para 3. Point well made. We will go with that item.

Since posting my last question, I've located for sale a multi-vdc 30 watt RGB LED, with a separate contact tab for each color, as opposed to a ganged contact used with remote LED controls for color choice. (My terminology may not be perfect here...) This LED-heat sink package should (as you stated) fit my needs much better than "filtering white light thru red and green glass wingtip filter lens." I'll plan on using the white LED's only as strobes.

As always, the education one receives from the build-it-yourself effort is well worth the initial confusion.
Best regards,
Mike W.
****************


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:52 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Quote:
Since posting my last question, I've located for sale a multi-vdc 30 watt RGB LED, with a separate contact tab for each color, as opposed to a ganged contact used with remote LED controls for color choice. (My terminology may not be perfect here...) This LED-heat sink package should (as you stated) fit my needs much better than "filtering white light thru red and green glass wingtip filter lens." I'll plan on using the white LED's only as strobes.

Hmmmm . . . multi-colored devices also suggest
less than the best efficiency compared to a single
color device. I'm pretty sure that the most successful
LED replacements for incandescent lamps will be
single color-specific devices.



Bob . . . [quote][b]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 7:51 pm    Post subject: LED landing light filter experiment Reply with quote

Mike,
RGB devices like the one you found are intended to be driven by a controller that can vary the intensity of each color as required to achieve "full color" output. The eye mixes the colors so you "see" the intended color -- think of each device as akin to a single pixel in a color "jumbotron" stadium screen and you'll have the basic idea.
For aircraft position lights, you'd probably be better off from an output intensity, size and cost perspective to find suitable single-color LEDs.
Pay close attention to color wavelength with LEDs. Their output is very narrow and specific. Red doesn't necessarily mean red and green doesn't necessarily mean green. Both colors have specifically defined wavelengths as far as the FAA is concerned.
Also pay close attention to beam angles. LEDs come with all kinds of optics molded into them. Wide angles obviously cover more area, but throw less light in any given direction. Narrow beam devices throw more light, but you'll need more of them, carefully aimed, to cover the desired viewing area.
I believe it was the other Eric who posted something a few months back about LED use for aircraft position lighting. I recall something about aviation green being very hard to duplicate with LEDs. Perhaps you can find it in the archives, or the OP will see this and kindly repost.
Eric
On Jan 26, 2013, at 11:43 AM, "SWAN MGT LLC/M WYNN" <wynaire(at)citlink.net (wynaire(at)citlink.net)> wrote:
[quote]Thanks for the replies.
I cannot answer your first questions until further education on my part. However, by re-reading your para 2 & 3, the fog is thinning! Thanks.
 
Currently there are no resisters in series with the LED. The "operating point" will be the aircraft battery / alternator system buss. Apparently your "switch mode supply" handles well any voltage fluctuation event, as referenced in para 3. Point well made. We will go with that item.

Since posting my last question, I've located for sale a multi-vdc 30 watt RGB LED, with a separate contact tab for each color, as opposed to a ganged contact used with remote LED controls for color choice. (My terminology may not be perfect here...) This LED-heat sink package should (as you stated) fit my needs much better than "filtering white light thru red and green glass wingtip filter lens." I'll plan on using the white LED's only as strobes.

As always, the education one receives from the build-it-yourself effort is well worth the initial confusion.
Best regards,
Mike W.
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