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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
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 Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:59 am Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
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George(at)oilhelp.com
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| Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:13 pm Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
To: Teamgrumman List
Subject: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
[quote][b]
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
Guest
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| Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:15 pm Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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Actually, on a new windshield, I can make the windshield fit with the canopy bow seal glued to the bottom of the windshield. I don't have a pic.
From: George Douglas <George(at)oilhelp.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 7:13 PM
Subject: RE: TeamGrumman-List: Re-bonding a windshield
Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
To: Teamgrumman List
Subject: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics TeamGrumman-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List |
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:56 pm Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original installation. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield. Corrosion will start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the boot cowl (windshield coving).
Gary
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George(at)oilhelp.com (George(at)oilhelp.com)> wrote:
[quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
To: Teamgrumman List
Subject: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
| Quote: |
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t">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
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cs.com
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matronics.com/contribution
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George(at)oilhelp.com
Guest
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| Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 3:45 am Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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Thanks, that is what I planned to use, but just checking to see if you came up with anything different.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 2:56 AM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re-bonding a windshield
On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original installation. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield. Corrosion will start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the boot cowl (windshield coving).
Gary
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George(at)oilhelp.com (George(at)oilhelp.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
To: Teamgrumman List
Subject: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
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[quote][b]
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:55 am Post subject: Re-bonding a windshield |
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The strip caulk gets dry and then it leaks. I've had the canopy bow seal on my plane for 9 years. No leaks. Looks good. I'll take a picture today. It's a little more work and you'll need to compensate a little on the install of the windshield to the bow. 1/8 inch is fine. The only trouble I've had is the seal working loose if the surface isn't cleaned really well on both the windshield and the seal. I use DAP Weldwood contact cement.
From: George Douglas <George(at)oilhelp.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 4:45 AM
Subject: RE: Re-bonding a windshield
Thanks, that is what I planned to use, but just checking to see if you came up with anything different.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 2:56 AM
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Re-bonding a windshield
On this plane, I will likely use the strip caulk like the original installation. I've seen a lot of RTV around the base of the windshield. Corrosion will start under RTV if used to seal the windshield to the boot cowl (windshield coving).
Gary
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 17, 2013, at 7:13 PM, "George Douglas" <George(at)oilhelp.com (George(at)oilhelp.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Gary, I just replaced my W/S in my traveler and was wondering what type of caulk or sealer did you use around the bottom of the window where the sheet metal over lays? I used the RTV like you did and it bond up good.
Best Regards,
George Douglas
Amsoil Distributor
office 407-856-1564
toll free 800-887-6698
cell 321-663-5391
www.oilhelp.com
From: owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-teamgrumman-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Gary L Vogt
Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 2:58 PM
To: Teamgrumman List
Subject: Re-bonding a windshield
This was a first.
Background: I built a fixture to simulate the installation of the windshield. I use large area washers under the windshield to maintain a uniform .020 to .025 inches of clearance between the bow and the windshield. Each of the washers is located at the screw holes normally used to the double-bead seal in place. When installing the clamps, I only clamp until I barely see the washer through the windshield; that way, I know the gap at the front of the bow is about .020 inches. This method works really well.
Note: the pics show the fixture in 2006. It's undergone a major upgrade since then.
.... I had a customer come in that had a fairly new windshield, in pretty good shape, but it was completely debonded. I said I could re-bond it. I'd never re-bonded a windshield in the past. But, how hard could it be???? Right?
During the pre-fitting process, it was obvious I couldn't use the edge of the windshield to hold it away from the bow. Whoever had installed the windshield didn't trim to fit on the bow. The edge was anything but even with the bow. The holes on the lower corners had bee drilled twice. Once before installation, once, apparently, after the windshield was on the bow. The edge along the bottom is very close to the holes as well.
So, I was able to use some tiny spacers (between the windshield and bow) at the front where the windshield was even with the bow and at the bottom corners under the windshield. What to do about the corners? The corners measured between 0 and .010 inches with the windshield in place.
Solution: I drilled and tapped three #6 holes on the left and one #6 hole on the right. I installed small #6 screws in the holes and screwed them in until I got the .020 to .025 inches in the corners. While installing the windshield, I only had to press on the windshield with my hand to get contact with the screws. So far, it looks great.
When I remove the screws, I'll put some RTV in the holes.
Oh, yea, I prefer the old 732 RTV and 1220/1205 process.
Gary
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