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Hydraulic lock?
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rmhou(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 10:27 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Would it make sense to remove one of the adjacent cylinders first to verify the bottom ring of the locked cylinder is the cause of the lock?



--- On Fri, 4/19/13, bill wade <bwade154(at)yahoo.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

From: bill wade <bwade154(at)yahoo.com>

Subject: Re: Re: Hydraulic lock?

To: "yak-list(at)matronics.com" <yak-list(at)matronics.com>

Date: Friday, April 19, 2013, 11:05 AM



Mark if you would like to know which piston it is just put a rod in through the spark plug hole longest one wins pull cylinder.

 Bill

 



    

From: Thomas McKeon <tmckeon79(at)hotmail.com>

To: "yak-list(at)matronics.com" <yak-list(at)matronics.com> 

Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 1:27 PM

Subject: RE: Re: Hydraulic lock?



 

     There is an ad on Barnstormers.com for a HS-6A engine and exhaust for $3,500.  If I were you I'd jump on that right away, you won't find a better deal.  I had basically the same thing happen to me a few months ago.  I'm still dealing with it.

 

  

 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Yak-List: Re: Hydraulic lock?

 From: mark(at)albanyproperty.com.au

 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 04:35:10 -0700

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Yak-List message posted by: "mnorman" <mark(at)albanyproperty.com.au>

 

 Thanks for all the info Richard, its much appreciated. Is there an easy way to tell which piston is the problem? Also how do you think it would compare price wise between doing the work you have suggested and replacing the engine. 

 Anyone know the going price for a replacement HS-6A?

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398939#398939

 

 

==

 

 

  


	




 	  Quote: 	
		  


-4>Un/Subscription,

ore:

 	  Quote: 	
		  Dralle, List Admin.

	


ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List">http://www.matronics.com/Naviga_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com[/b] 	




	


 [quote][b]

bwade154(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:01 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Sorry Mark you are correct. Should have added, if the engine rotates after pulling cylinder you got the correct one. Stroke is 5.11 inch's so there should be more than 1/2 inch differance between each cylinder's piston in the bore and if it is in-fact locked as Mr Goode has suggested it would be sound to assume the lowest piston in the cylinder's would be the culprate. Something else could have locked the engine? and you know what assume is. But thats where I would start.

 Bill 

 

    

From: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 2:15 PM

Subject: RE: Re: Hydraulic lock?



 --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>



The M-14 Engine has slightly different "stroke" lengths, and I would

guess so would the Housai.  You cannot rely on that method all the time.

Just sayin.  It sounds good in theory, and with a V-8 Chevy it would

work.  Not so this engine. 



Mark

--

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 11:10 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Exactly. Good explanation by the way.  



Mark

--

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:13 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Everyone else has responded to this already, so there is not much more to be said...... except:  



One thing I have discovered with my YAK-50 that DOES have the intake drain kit installed, is that when the weather is cold, the oil does not tend to just run right out of the intake drains.  This results in the strong possibility of oil remaining in the intake tubes and being gulped right into the engine on start, which apparently is what happened to this poor gent. And yes, I am running Phillips 25W-60W Radial Engine Oil.   



So to those with intake drain kits installed, take note if you choose.  I first prime the living daylights out of my engine and DO NOT (!!!) pull it through AT ALL!!!  I just sit there watching the intake drain itself.  What SHOULD happen is that raw fuel comes streaming out of the drain.  If it does NOT do that, then "YO" the oil in the drain tube kit itself is backed up and you might still have a lot of oil (and now fuel too!) in the lower intake tubes themselves.  This is a strong DANGER DANGER indication!  



At this point, I prime it still more and AGAIN watch the drain.  If STILL nothing happens, I pull the front and rear plugs, and then start pre-heating the whole darn engine no matter what it takes to accomplish that.  STILL never turning the prop at all.  



Eventually all the oil and fuel will come streaming out the intake drain.  THEN and only THEN is when I will consider pulling the prop through.  



If you don't have the intake drain kit installed, you are looking at pulling the cowl and the plugs and pretty much doing the same thing. 



The YAK-50 being a tail-dragger is especially prone to this happening.   Point being, even with the intake drain kit installed, you still can't take it for granted that it worked as advertised.  



Mark Bitterlich 

 



--

rijaeger(at)wausau.k12.wi
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:47 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

As usual, Mark - you are right on the bullseye here. What you described is exactly what happened to me a couple weeks ago when I started the Yak for the 1st time in months. It was chilly out and I had left the intake drain open the entire time she sat. The only time anything moved through the chilled drain tube was when I would cycle the drain valve - then a single globule of oil would exit after each opening - guessing the slight vacuum on the clogged line caused that. About 15 minutes after priming - with the valve still open - the fuel worked it's way through the line and opened things up - I guess much like an oil dilution system would do. I have MUCH to learn about these aircraft / engines. But if you experts have taught me anything, it's be careful to the point of PARANOIA w/ start up. Thank you for that. I'd rather take the time & effort and be mildly inconvenienced any day over being grounded w/ expensive and lengthy repairs due to complacency.

 



On Fri, Apr 19, 2013 at 3:11 PM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)> wrote:

 [quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>

  

 

Everyone else has responded to this already, so there is not much more to be said...... except:

 

 One thing I have discovered with my YAK-50 that DOES have the intake drain kit installed, is that when the weather is cold, the oil does not tend to just run right out of the intake drains. Â This results in the strong possibility of oil remaining in the intake tubes and being gulped right into the engine on start, which apparently is what happened to this poor gent. And yes, I am running Phillips 25W-60W Radial Engine Oil.

  

 So to those with intake drain kits installed, take note if you choose. Â I first prime the living daylights out of my engine and DO NOT (!!!) pull it through AT ALL!!! Â I just sit there watching the intake drain itself. Â What SHOULD happen is that raw fuel comes streaming out of the drain. Â If it does NOT do that, then "YO" the oil in the drain tube kit itself is backed up and you might still have a lot of oil (and now fuel too!) in the lower intake tubes themselves. Â This is a strong DANGER DANGER indication!

  

 At this point, I prime it still more and AGAIN watch the drain. Â If STILL nothing happens, I pull the front and rear plugs, and then start pre-heating the whole darn engine no matter what it takes to accomplish that. Â STILL never turning the prop at all.

  

 Eventually all the oil and fuel will come streaming out the intake drain. Â THEN and only THEN is when I will consider pulling the prop through.

 

 If you don't have the intake drain kit installed, you are looking at pulling the cowl and the plugs and pretty much doing the same thing.

 

 The YAK-50 being a tail-dragger is especially prone to this happening. Â  Point being, even with the intake drain kit installed, you still can't take it for granted that it worked as advertised.

 

 Mark Bitterlich

 

 

 --

bwade154(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 12:50 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Let me add to Tom's post the add is in Barnstormers under Parts - Nanchang and there is a picture.

 Bill

  

 NANCHANG HS6 EXHAUST & ENGINE â€¢ $3,500 â€¢ FOR SALE â€¢ Ceramic coated Blackwell leg pipe exhaust & HS6 powerplant. Upgraded to m-14. 1000 for exhaust, 3500 for core â€¢ Contact Chris Zimmer - [url=http://us-mg6.mail.yahoo.com/contact_seller.php?to=72287&id=751045&title=NANCHANG HS6 exhaust & engine&return=%2FParts%2C%2520Nanchang%2520Classifieds.html]ZPM[/url], Owner - located Mukilteo, WA USA â€¢ Telephone: 4252205414 . â€¢  Posted April 15, 2013 

 



    

From: Thomas McKeon <tmckeon79(at)hotmail.com>

To: "yak-list(at)matronics.com" <yak-list(at)matronics.com> 

Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 1:27 PM

Subject: RE: Re: Hydraulic lock?



 

     There is an ad on Barnstormers.com for a HS-6A engine and exhaust for $3,500.  If I were you I'd jump on that right away, you won't find a better deal.  I had basically the same thing happen to me a few months ago.  I'm still dealing with it.

 

  

 	  Quote: 	
		   Subject: Re: Hydraulic lock?

 From: mark(at)albanyproperty.com.au

 Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 04:35:10 -0700

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com

 

 --> Yak-List message posted by: "mnorman" <mark(at)albanyproperty.com.au>

 

 Thanks for all the info Richard, its much appreciated. Is there an easy way to tell which piston is the problem? Also how do you think it would compare price wise between doing the work you have suggested and replacing the engine. 

 Anyone know the going price for a replacement HS-6A?

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=398939#398939

 

 

==

 

 

 


	




[quote]

[b]

mnorman

Joined: 30 Nov 2010
Posts: 9

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:37 pm Post subject: Re: Hydraulic lock?

Thanks so much for all the great info guys. Its given me lots to consider. I was a bit in shock yesterday when it happened, at least now I have a better idea of where I'm at.



Thanks again



Mark

viperdoc(at)mindspring.co
Guest

Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 3:27 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Roger that Mark. That also is why I jack the tail up after I put her up for the day. Draining the sump also seems to help with the amount of Oil I get out on engine pull through.

Doc



Sent from my iPad



On Apr 19, 2013, at 3:11 PM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> wrote:



[quote] 

 

 Everyone else has responded to this already, so there is not much more to be said...... except:  

 

 One thing I have discovered with my YAK-50 that DOES have the intake drain kit installed, is that when the weather is cold, the oil does not tend to just run right out of the intake drains.  This results in the strong possibility of oil remaining in the intake tubes and being gulped right into the engine on start, which apparently is what happened to this poor gent. And yes, I am running Phillips 25W-60W Radial Engine Oil.   

 

 So to those with intake drain kits installed, take note if you choose.  I first prime the living daylights out of my engine and DO NOT (!!!) pull it through AT ALL!!!  I just sit there watching the intake drain itself.  What SHOULD happen is that raw fuel comes streaming out of the drain.  If it does NOT do that, then "YO" the oil in the drain tube kit itself is backed up and you might still have a lot of oil (and now fuel too!) in the lower intake tubes themselves.  This is a strong DANGER DANGER indication!  

 

 At this point, I prime it still more and AGAIN watch the drain.  If STILL nothing happens, I pull the front and rear plugs, and then start pre-heating the whole darn engine no matter what it takes to accomplish that.  STILL never turning the prop at all.  

 

 Eventually all the oil and fuel will come streaming out the intake drain.  THEN and only THEN is when I will consider pulling the prop through.  

 

 If you don't have the intake drain kit installed, you are looking at pulling the cowl and the plugs and pretty much doing the same thing. 

 

 The YAK-50 being a tail-dragger is especially prone to this happening.   Point being, even with the intake drain kit installed, you still can't take it for granted that it worked as advertised.  

 

 Mark Bitterlich 

 

 

 --

tigeryak18t

Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 12:20 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Nobody mentioned that when parking for  a long time you'll loose less time and sweat to drain all oil out of the motor. And when coming back before starting warm the oil outside the plane before putting it back. Then you'll be sure that there can't be oil in your lower cylinder?

Plus oil will be warm before starting



The best system may well be this pre oiler and heater but it does cost money. Ok less than a bent rod!!!



Has anyone on the list experienced such way of doing?



Didier Blouzard

+33 6 5184 4802



Le 20 avr. 2013 Ã  01:25, "Roger Kemp M.D." <viperdoc(at)mindspring.com> a Ã©crit :



[quote] 

 

 Roger that Mark. That also is why I jack the tail up after I put her up for the day. Draining the sump also seems to help with the amount of Oil I get out on engine pull through.

 Doc

 

 Sent from my iPad

 

 On Apr 19, 2013, at 3:11 PM, "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> wrote:

 

> 

> 

> Everyone else has responded to this already, so there is not much more to be said...... except:  

> 

> One thing I have discovered with my YAK-50 that DOES have the intake drain kit installed, is that when the weather is cold, the oil does not tend to just run right out of the intake drains.  This results in the strong possibility of oil remaining in the intake tubes and being gulped right into the engine on start, which apparently is what happened to this poor gent. And yes, I am running Phillips 25W-60W Radial Engine Oil.   

> 

> So to those with intake drain kits installed, take note if you choose.  I first prime the living daylights out of my engine and DO NOT (!!!) pull it through AT ALL!!!  I just sit there watching the intake drain itself.  What SHOULD happen is that raw fuel comes streaming out of the drain.  If it does NOT do that, then "YO" the oil in the drain tube kit itself is backed up and you might still have a lot of oil (and now fuel too!) in the lower intake tubes themselves.  This is a strong DANGER DANGER indication!  

> 

> At this point, I prime it still more and AGAIN watch the drain.  If STILL nothing happens, I pull the front and rear plugs, and then start pre-heating the whole darn engine no matter what it takes to accomplish that.  STILL never turning the prop at all.  

> 

> Eventually all the oil and fuel will come streaming out the intake drain.  THEN and only THEN is when I will consider pulling the prop through.  

> 

> If you don't have the intake drain kit installed, you are looking at pulling the cowl and the plugs and pretty much doing the same thing. 

> 

> The YAK-50 being a tail-dragger is especially prone to this happening.   Point being, even with the intake drain kit installed, you still can't take it for granted that it worked as advertised.  

> 

> Mark Bitterlich 

> 

> 

> --

_________________
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing

Wim

Joined: 03 Oct 2012
Posts: 2

Posted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 1:30 am Post subject: Re: Hydraulic lock?

Also not mentioned before in this thread:



On our Yak-52; we have installed a shut off valve just below the oil tank. This valve is closed after each flight to prevent oil draining into the engine when parked. When closed it flicks a switch that disables the ignition system to prevent starting. Not sure if this easy modification is common or will prevent all hyd lock issues caused by oil, but seems logical to me.



Rgds

Wim

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 8:56 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Didier, 



I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself, and have seen them mounted on the sump as well.  These are typically "EZ-Heat" type devices: 



http://e-zheat.com/shop/



My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a veratherm (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler itself.  This serves two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm up must faster, and two ... it helps to prevent an over-pressure situation in the cooler when the engine is started under very cold conditions without pre-heat.  There was actually a change in the YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the oil cooler at one time.  I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might know.  In any case, mine works very well. 



Mark

--

tigeryak18t

Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:35 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Interesting.

I also did put on my main tank EZ Heat systems. Two pads and on the oil

sump one pad.

A very very good aftersales service.

One of my pas did not work and without any question they sent me a

replacement.

Since now 3 years I am using them and it works perfectly fine.



Works very well. When temperature is below minus 5 you must also use an air

heater to warm cylinders and it take about 40mn to warm up to 10 degres oil

and 15 degres cyl temp.

That's really great to start warm



Good to share experience on that

Didier



2013/4/22 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>



[quote] 

 mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>



 Didier,



 I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself, and have seen them

 mounted on the sump as well.  These are typically "EZ-Heat" type devices:



 http://e-zheat.com/shop/



 My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a veratherm

 (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler itself.  This serves

 two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm up must faster, and two ...

 it helps to prevent an over-pressure situation in the cooler when the

 engine is started under very cold conditions without pre-heat.  There was

 actually a change in the YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the

 oil cooler at one time.  I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might know

_________________
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing

dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:47 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Particularly when the temps get below 0 C it is a VERY good idea to have 

a heat pad on the oil cooler or use some sort of heater to warm the oil 

in the oil cooler.



I know of one that literally blew apart in the very cold winter weather 

when the oil tank and sump and engine compartment were heated, but the 

oil cooler wasn't.



A. Dennis Savarese

334-285-6263

334-546-8182 (mobile)

www.yak-52.com

Skype - Yakguy1



On 4/22/2013 2:32 PM, Didier Blouzard wrote:

[quote] Interesting.

 I also did put on my main tank EZ Heat systems. Two pads and on the 

 oil sump one pad.

 A very very good aftersales service.

 One of my pas did not work and without any question they sent me a 

 replacement.

 Since now 3 years I am using them and it works perfectly fine.



 Works very well. When temperature is below minus 5 you must also use 

 an air heater to warm cylinders and it take about 40mn to warm up to 

 10 degres oil and 15 degres cyl temp.

 That's really great to start warm



 Good to share experience on that

 Didier



 2013/4/22 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil 

 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>>



     

     WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>>



     Didier,



     I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself, and have seen

     them mounted on the sump as well. These are typically "EZ-Heat"

     type devices:



     http://e-zheat.com/shop/



     My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a veratherm

     (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler itself. This

     serves two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm up must

     faster, and two ... it helps to prevent an over-pressure situation

     in the cooler when the engine is started under very cold

     conditions without pre-heat. There was actually a change in the

     YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the oil cooler at

     one time. I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might know. In any

     case, mine works very well.



     Mark

     --

tigeryak18t

Joined: 26 Sep 2009
Posts: 233
Location: PARIS FRANCE

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

I add this to my Must Do List

Thanks Dennis



Didier



2013/4/22 A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net (dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net)>

  [quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net (dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net)>

   

 Particularly when the temps get below 0 C it is a VERY good idea to have a heat pad on the oil cooler or use some sort of heater to warm the oil in the oil cooler.

 

 I know of one that literally blew apart in the very cold winter weather when the oil tank and sump and engine compartment were heated, but the oil cooler wasn't.

 

 A. Dennis Savarese

 [url=tel:334-285-6263]334-285-6263[/url]

 [url=tel:334-546-8182]334-546-8182[/url]Â (mobile)

 www.yak-52.com

 Skype - Yakguy1

 



 On 4/22/2013 2:32 PM, Didier Blouzard wrote:

 

[quote] Interesting.

 I also did put on my main tank EZ Heat systems. Two pads and on the oil sump one pad.

 A very very good aftersales service.

 One of my pas did not work and without any question they sent me a replacement.

 Since now 3 years I am using them and it works perfectly fine.

 

 Works very well. When temperature is below minus 5 you must also use an air heater to warm cylinders and it take about 40mn to warm up to 10 degres oil and 15 degres cyl temp.

 That's really great to start warm

 

 Good to share experience on that

 

 

 Didier

 

 

 

 

 



 2013/4/22 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil) <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>>  

 

 Â  Â  --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR,



 Â  Â  WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil) <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>>  

 

 Â  Â  Didier,

 

 Â  Â  I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself, and have seen

 Â  Â  them mounted on the sump as well. These are typically "EZ-Heat"

 Â  Â  type devices:

 

 Â  Â  http://e-zheat.com/shop/

 

 Â  Â  My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a veratherm

 Â  Â  (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler itself. This

 Â  Â  serves two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm up must

 Â  Â  faster, and two ... it helps to prevent an over-pressure situation

 Â  Â  in the cooler when the engine is started under very cold

 Â  Â  conditions without pre-heat. There was actually a change in the

 Â  Â  YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the oil cooler at

 Â  Â  one time. I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might know. In any

 Â  Â  case, mine works very well.

 

 Â  Â  Mark

 

 

 Â  Â  --

_________________
Didier Tiger YAK18T
Member of Commemorative Air Force
French Wing

Yakman

Joined: 04 Feb 2012
Posts: 10
Location: Auckland New Zealand

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 12:52 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

I hate to bore you all with this subject but to save an inexperienced Yak guy the same fate as poor Mark I'd apprciate just one more day of advice. The original post from Mark was about his aircraft not flying for 6 months which resulted in his hydrauliced engine. I am in the same situation having not started my 18t for 2 months however I have swung the prop 18 times every 2 weeks. It has the drain mods and obviously its not a tail dragger. So this Sat im going to start it rain or shine. Its still fairly warm here, t shirt and shorts weather. Ive noted I have lost a lot of oil on the dip stick. Reading the past days comments I should do the following:

1/ pull the prop thru 18 times with drains open

2/ remove front spark plugs from lower 3 cylinders and pull thru 18 times and refit plugs

3/ prime engine with Mags off and throttle off, pull thru until I get clean fuel thru drains

Any comments?

Andrew ParkNew Zealand



-------- Original message --------

From: Didier Blouzard <didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com> 

Date: 23/04/2013  8:06 AM  (GMT+12:00) 

To: yak-list(at)matronics.com 

Subject: Re: Yak-List: Re: Hydraulic lock? 

 



[quote][quote]I add this to my Must Do List

Thanks Dennis



Didier



2013/4/22 A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net (dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net)>

  [quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "A. Dennis Savarese" <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net (dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net)>

   

 Particularly when the temps get below 0 C it is a VERY good idea to have a heat pad on the oil cooler or use some sort of heater to warm the oil in the oil cooler.

 

 I know of one that literally blew apart in the very cold winter weather when the oil tank and sump and engine compartment were heated, but the oil cooler wasn't.

 

 A. Dennis Savarese

 [url=tel:334-285-6263]334-285-6263[/url]

 [url=tel:334-546-8182]334-546-8182[/url] (mobile)

 www.yak-52.com

 Skype - Yakguy1

 



 On 4/22/2013 2:32 PM, Didier Blouzard wrote:

 

[quote] Interesting.

 I also did put on my main tank EZ Heat systems. Two pads and on the oil sump one pad.

 A very very good aftersales service.

 One of my pas did not work and without any question they sent me a replacement.

 Since now 3 years I am using them and it works perfectly fine.

 

 Works very well. When temperature is below minus 5 you must also use an air heater to warm cylinders and it take about 40mn to warm up to 10 degres oil and 15 degres cyl temp.

 That's really great to start warm

 

 Good to share experience on that

 

 

 Didier

 

 

 

 

 



 2013/4/22 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil) <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>>  

 

     --> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR,



     WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil) <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil)>>  

 

     Didier,

 

     I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself, and have seen

     them mounted on the sump as well. These are typically "EZ-Heat"

     type devices:

 

     http://e-zheat.com/shop/

 

     My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a veratherm

     (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler itself. This

     serves two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm up must

     faster, and two ... it helps to prevent an over-pressure situation

     in the cooler when the engine is started under very cold

     conditions without pre-heat. There was actually a change in the

     YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the oil cooler at

     one time. I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might know. In any

     case, mine works very well.

 

     Mark

 

 

     --

dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 1:18 pm Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Only one - pull the rear plugs. The airplane still sits at a slightly 

nose-high attitude on the ground. A little more of a pain. But 

definitely worth the effort.



A. Dennis Savarese

334-285-6263

334-546-8182 (mobile)

www.yak-52.com

Skype - Yakguy1



On 4/22/2013 3:50 PM, andrew.park wrote:

[quote] I hate to bore you all with this subject but to save an inexperienced 

 Yak guy the same fate as poor Mark I'd apprciate just one more day of 

 advice. The original post from Mark was about his aircraft not flying 

 for 6 months which resulted in his hydrauliced engine. I am in the 

 same situation having not started my 18t for 2 months however I have 

 swung the prop 18 times every 2 weeks. It has the drain mods and 

 obviously its not a tail dragger. So this Sat im going to start it 

 rain or shine. Its still fairly warm here, t shirt and shorts weather. 

 Ive noted I have lost a lot of oil on the dip stick. Reading the past 

 days comments I should do the following:



 1/ pull the prop thru 18 times with drains open

 2/ remove front spark plugs from lower 3 cylinders and pull thru 18 

 times and refit plugs

 3/ prime engine with Mags off and throttle off, pull thru until I get 

 clean fuel thru drains



 Any comments?



 Andrew Park

 New Zealand



 -------- Original message --------

 From: Didier Blouzard <didier.blouzard(at)gmail.com>

 Date: 23/04/2013 8:06 AM (GMT+12:00)

 To: yak-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Re: Hydraulic lock?

         I add this to my Must Do List

         Thanks Dennis



         Didier



         2013/4/22 A. Dennis Savarese <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net

         <mailto:dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>>



             

             <dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net

             <mailto:dsavarese0812(at)bellsouth.net>>



             Particularly when the temps get below 0 C it is a VERY

             good idea to have a heat pad on the oil cooler or use some

             sort of heater to warm the oil in the oil cooler.



             I know of one that literally blew apart in the very cold

             winter weather when the oil tank and sump and engine

             compartment were heated, but the oil cooler wasn't.

             A. Dennis Savarese

             334-285-6263 <tel:334-285-6263>

             334-546-8182 <tel:334-546-8182> (mobile)

             www.yak-52.com <http://www.yak-52.com>

             Skype - Yakguy1



             On 4/22/2013 2:32 PM, Didier Blouzard wrote:



                 Interesting.

                 I also did put on my main tank EZ Heat systems. Two

                 pads and on the oil sump one pad.

                 A very very good aftersales service.

                 One of my pas did not work and without any question

                 they sent me a replacement.

                 Since now 3 years I am using them and it works

                 perfectly fine.



                 Works very well. When temperature is below minus 5 you

                 must also use an air heater to warm cylinders and it

                 take about 40mn to warm up to 10 degres oil and 15

                 degres cyl temp.

                 That's really great to start warm



                 Good to share experience on that

                 Didier



                 2013/4/22 Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD

                 <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>>>

                 

                 CIV NAVAIR,

                 WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil

                 <mailto:mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil>>>

                 Didier,



                 I've put an electric heater on the oil tank itself,

                 and have seen

                 them mounted on the sump as well. These are typically

                 "EZ-Heat"

                 type devices:



                 http://e-zheat.com/shop/



                 My oil cooler has also been changed "back" to having a

                 veratherm

                 (basically a thermostat) internal to the oil cooler

                 itself. This

                 serves two purposes, first it allows the oil to warm

                 up must

                 faster, and two ... it helps to prevent an

                 over-pressure situation

                 in the cooler when the engine is started under very cold

                 conditions without pre-heat. There was actually a

                 change in the

                 YAK-50 design that pulled these things OUT of the oil

                 cooler at

                 one time. I'm not sure why, maybe Richard Goode might

                 know. In any

                 case, mine works very well.



                 Mark

                 --

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 6:50 am Post subject: Hydraulic lock?

Also prime it a lot and make sure fuel flows out the intake drains verifying they are not clogged up.  



--

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