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Matt Dralle
Site Admin
Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 25627
Location: Livermore CA USA
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 Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:07 am Post subject: RV-8 Canopy |
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| Quote: | At 12:01 PM 5/28/2013 Tuesday, you wrote:
I'll second the air conditioner. Gets a little warm at LVK on summer afternoons. I bought an evaporative cooler that helps considerably. Nice video.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
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Hey Michael,
How'd your canopy turn out? I'm on my second try now on the rebuild. I think this one might be the one. I drilled the mounting holes #36 then tapped for #6 screws. I like to be able to remove the skirts well into the process and using screws instead of rivets seems to work out a lot better. On Ruby 1.0 I used those Rivnuts which worked well. But, they are very large and its hard to properly fit the plexiglass because they protrude by 1/16" and you can't put them in until after the fitting is done - a Catch 22 of sorts. I'm hoping that tapping the frame will work. The frame metal is fairly thick and really hard so it would seem that tapping might work really well. You don't want to over tighten the screws because of the plexi anyway, so you don't need much to hold the screw. Today I enlarge the holes in the plexi from #40 to about 3/16" then try out my tapping/screw idea. Wish me luck!
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Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
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Matt Dralle
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rv8iator(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 12:57 pm Post subject: RV-8 Canopy |
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Matt et al...
I see from your log photos that you cut the forward top skin back to flush with the support brackets that attach to the windshield frame. Â I was considering doing the same since the canopy frame does not really fit under the skin. Â Further the fibre glass fabricated faring will cover this gap between canopy fairing and forward top skin. Â Am I missing something here?
WRT your tapping the canopy frame for 6-32 screws... Â are clecos not sufficient to hold things together during fitting?
You builders log has been a great reference... Â Even though this is my second RV-8 with a couple of years in between builds the minds eye flickers and doesn't always present a clear mental picture as to the "best way".
Thanks!
Chris Stone
Newberg, OR
[quote]
[b]
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Matt Dralle
Site Admin
Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 25627
Location: Livermore CA USA
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| Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 3:28 pm Post subject: RV-8 Canopy |
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Yes, I did in fact use these very drill bits from Avery to enlarge the holes in the Plexiglass from #40 up to 3/16" for the #6 screw. They work great! Also, I strongly recommend putting a piece of wood behind the Plexiglass with a ClecoClamp before drilling. Didn't have a single problem with any of the holes; and I've got a couple that are a little close to the edge. By the way, the 3/16" hole for a #6 may seem like a lot, but the swimming room greatly reduces the stress on the Plexiglass by any given screw. Consider also that most all of the screw holes are sandwiched between the tube and the fiberglass skirt, so all you really need is the clamping action (and just a little shear action).
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
At 04:18 PM 5/29/2013 Wednesday, Vincent Himsl wrote:
[quote]I used special pointed tipped plexiglass drill bits from Avery Tools. Didn't see that mentioned. I suppose you could grind the ends of conventional drill bits to a sharp point.
[img]cid:7.1.0.9.2.20130529162122.07e8e4f8(at)matronics.com.1[/img]
Vince Himsl
RV8432 150 hours. SB traditional paint scheme (primer and metal), Idaho back country ready...ehr no wheel pants.
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Matt Dralle
Site Admin
Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 25627
Location: Livermore CA USA
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| Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 3:38 pm Post subject: RV-8 Canopy |
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I definitely did consider the very elegant solution of bonding the canopy to the frame. It would certainly reduce the stress factor. For me, however, it presents a couple of problems. One, I like to be able to remove the skirts well after the initial flight for adding dampening and antiskuff material in just the right places. I had the skirts off at least three times after my first flight. The other issue with bonding for me is the painting process. I like to powder coat the frame, then match spray the insides of the skirts, then add labeling. For maximum flexibility, having everything simply screwed together really allows for a high-quality assembly and painting process. Attached are a few pictures from Ruby 1.0's canopy installation to give an idea what I'm talking about.
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Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
At 03:49 PM 5/29/2013 Wednesday, you wrote:
| Quote: |
Hi Matt,
I haven't followed this thread closely, so ignore this if it's been covered. There is always the Sikaflex option. No holes at all, & no risk of plexi cracks. There's a fairly long history now of RV-s flying with Sika'd canopies, with very good results.
Charlie
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Matt Dralle
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Michael Wynn
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 148
Location: San Ramon, CA
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| Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 10:03 pm Post subject: RV-8 Canopy |
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Hi Matt,
Took me two tries. I cracked the first one. I got a Todd's replacement--which lead to some interesting issues. The Van's skirt did not fit to speak of so I had to do a lot of lay-ups to get it right.
I sikaflexed both the canopy and the skirt. Didn't get the skirt on exactly right and had to cut off the rear and lay it up again. Whew. What a learning curve on this one. All in all, I would do the sikaflex again. It is on really solidly and no holes. Thing is, it has to be aligned just right. I didn't align the skirt on the plane and missed by about a half inch.
I think that tapping the frame ought to work pretty well. The metal is quite substantial. I agree that you will have a lot more control with screws than with rivets.
Anyway, good luck with it.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV8 LVK 199
In a message dated 5/29/2013 10:09:14 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dralle(at)matronics.com writes:
| Quote: | --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
| Quote: | At 12:01 PM 5/28/2013 Tuesday, you wrote:
I'll second the air conditioner. Gets a little warm at LVK on summer afternoons. I bought an evaporative cooler that helps considerably. Nice video.
Regards,
Michael Wynn
|
Hey Michael,
How'd your canopy turn out? I'm on my second try now on the rebuild. I think this one might be the one. I drilled the mounting holes #36 then tapped for #6 screws. I like to be able to remove the skirts well into the process and using screws instead of rivets seems to work out a lot better. On Ruby 1.0 I used those Rivnuts which worked well. But, they are very large and its hard to properly fit the plexiglass because they protrude by 1/16" and you can't put them in until after the fitting is done - a Catch 22 of sorts. I'm hoping that tapping the frame will work. The frame metal is fairly thick and really hard so it would seem that tapping might work really well. You don't want to over tighten the screws because of the plexi anyway, so you don't need much to hold the screw. Today I enlarge the holes in the plexi from #40 to about 3/16" then try out my tapping/screw idea. Wish me luck!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode ies ay - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - List Contribution Web Site p;
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[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV8-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List |
|
_________________
Michael Wynn
RV 8
San Ramon, CA |
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