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bnn(at)nethere.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 5:51 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

All,
I ran around the airport again yesterday. The running water temp
got up to 184, but ran on up to 214 when I shut it down. I've been told
that I'm frying my rotary valve seal, but if I'm to keep the heat soak temp
below 175, I'm going to have to run much cooler than when I shut it down.
Am I worrying too much? Or should I tear into this thing now?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2006 5:59 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Hi Guy,
184 F not out of line but 214 F certainly is .
What is OAT when you get these temps and are you just taxing around ?
If engine is new, it eill run a little hotter for first 10 to 20 hours but
214 F is not good news if that continues.
What temps do you get in air ?
What temps did you get when you broke in the engine ? I assume you ran a
hose on rad while doing this ?
Breaking on new engine should take you about 1 hour 20 mins or so.
Dave
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 1:02 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 06:59 PM 6/11/2006, you wrote:

Quote:
184 F not out of line but 214 F certainly is .

The 214 was heat soak after I shut it down. Still bad?

Quote:
What is OAT when you get these temps and are you just taxing around ?

I think it was in the low 80's.

Quote:
If engine is new, it eill run a little hotter for first 10 to 20 hours but
214 F is not good news if that continues.
What temps do you get in air ?

I haven't been in the air yet. I'm trying to decide whether I should
completely rework the cooling system. It seems odd. One of the Kitfox's at
our field has a 912 with EXACTLY the same radiator. He has no problems. I
wonder if my system's working well.

Quote:
What temps did you get when you broke in the engine ? I assume you ran a
hose on rad while doing this ?

I didn't break it in, but temps were held below 175 for the entire time.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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Mike C



Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 1:46 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Guy,
Do you have the short exhaust stack that blows on to the rad? The heat
from the exhaust would heat the coolant in the rad. I have an extension
on my exhaust pipe that directs the gasses below the rad.

Mike Crutchlow
KF-2, 582

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 4:40 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 02:45 PM 6/12/2006, you wrote:
Quote:


Guy,
Do you have the short exhaust stack that blows on to the rad?

Sort of. I have a cowl over the radiator that might deflect the exhaust
away, but I'm guessing that the circularity of the slipstream probably runs
at least some of it in. Did you make your extension from standard pipe?
Guy


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noelloveys(at)yahoo.ca
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 5:42 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

I've been "reading the mail" on this one. I'm going to assume that you
have a thermostat in the engine. That leaves a few things that can be
wrong.

Radiator:
may not be in a good place for cooling; may be blocked (partially) may have
an airlock of some kind or may be too small..

Sensor Probe:
This may be giving you false readings Check it's calibration in a container
of boiling water with a candy thermometer. Remember water boils at lower
temps in higher altitudes.

Hoses:
Check to be sure all the hoses are intact and don't have any floppy liners
loose inside them.

Best of luck
Noel

[quote] --


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Mike C



Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 6:13 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

The pipe was on when I bought the plane. It is an extension of the
regular pipe. It's the same type of pipe that is flared and bolted on.
It keeps the exhaust heat away from the rad and the landing gear (leg
and bungee) stays clean. See the attached photo.

Mike

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2006 7:11 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 07:12 PM 6/12/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
It keeps the exhaust heat away from the rad and the landing gear (leg
and bungee) stays clean. See the attached photo.

WOW! Now that's a pipe, baby! I wonder if it modifies the horsepower curve?
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.

Do not archive


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:04 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Check the thermostat. If you have an older 582 (pre mod 99) It is my
understanding that there must be a hole of some sort in the thermostat to
allow a bypass circulation. I think this is done via a passage on the newer
582's.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 3:20 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Guy,
If you suspect the exhaust pipe, go to an auto parts place and purchase
a cheap extension about 6" long. Temporarily clamp it on and then go taxi.
I had to add an extension to mine after the cowl/radiator mods. I used a
similar extension but had it welded on as the final mod. I don't think
adding a short extension on the radiator outlet changes power. Of course,
if you ran it all the way to the tailwheel that might make a difference.

Don Smythe
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 4:28 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Just make a short extruder tube long enough to by pass the rad. The cold
air from the extruder will quiet your exhaust and keep the belly of your
plane clean. Chrome it and when people ask you what it is tell them it's
the smoke system;^)

Noel

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:54 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Guy, could you take a picute of your setup ? Now that attachments can be
added to post it would make it more clear. Did you say you have a cowl
over the radiator or is it original?

And how did you maintain 175 F on breakin but not now ? I assume with a
hose?
New engines will generally run hotter for the first 10 to 20 hours as well.
Dave
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Mike C



Joined: 24 May 2006
Posts: 17
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:54 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

I've never flown it without the extension so I can't judge the power
difference. It does NOT lack for power with the pipe.

Mike

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 6:56 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

That pipe extension might also be a contributing factor for the heat problem?
 
ns pag


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 8:19 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 05:49 AM 6/13/2006, you wrote:
Quote:


Guy, could you take a picute of your setup ? Now that attachments can be
added to post it would make it more clear. Did you say you have a cowl
over the radiator or is it original?

I think it's the Speedster cowl. I've added a back plate which forces all
the incoming air through the radiator. I'll dig up a picture.
Quote:
And how did you maintain 175 F on breakin but not now ? I assume with a
hose?
New engines will generally run hotter for the first 10 to 20 hours as well.

I don't know. Bob Robertson did the break in. I'm going to try the hose
because I have to do more full throttle static runs. I'm going to put the
mains on stands and run it for a while with the tanks near empty to make
sure I've got good fuel flow. I'm then going to check flows with the tanks
full. I'll probably put at least an hour on it static so I'll want the
capability to keep it cool.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2006 9:36 pm    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Guy nice pics,

It might be me, but that air scoop looks like it is restricted by the cowl
exit.
That rad cowl i doubt will help you on cooling on the ground. In the air I
am not sure.

Bob Robertson is a good guy and I would expect he had no cooling issues but
most likely a larger cooling source than a OEM Skystar rad. My rad is
about 4 inch x 20 inch by 2 inch thick with 582.

Fuel flow can be checked static as well. You will need min. 6 to 7 gals
free flow per hour from gravity alone.
You should get increased fuel flow from Pitot tubes on caps if they sealed
properly.
Sharp looking Kitfox and I hope the temperature does not run as red as the
paint job Smile

I see that it is 99.9 % done - does that mean a test flight any day now ?

Dave

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 3:58 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

Guy,
Nice pics. You can do a fuel flow check easily by taking loose the fuel
line at the input of the fuel pump and letting it gravity drain in a bucket.
You want 150% fuel flow based on the max fuel usage of the engine or say,
150% X 7 gallons = 10.5 gallons per hour. Just drain a quart and do the
rest by math. BTW, keep the collection bucket at the same height as the
fuel pump. If you extend the line down to the hanger floor it will give you
incorrect fuel flow readings.
I noticed something in your picture that I think it wrong. Your fuel
pump is mounted on it's side and should be mounted flat with the pulse line
on the bottom. I've read this in several articles and not sure how
important it is. I've seen a batch of ultralights with the pump mounted on
it side.
Just curious as to why you need to do another hours worth of high speed
engine running??? BTW, I'll bet your heating problem will go away once in
the air. Or at least be OK during cruise. I always had a problem during
climb on hot days. I think my modifications pretty well fixed everything.
Yesterday I flew with 167 degrees on an extended climb and temps went to 165
at cruise (OAT was 80). The input / output temps of the radiator were 10
degrees different.

Don Smythe
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 6:57 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 10:34 PM 6/13/2006, you wrote:
Quote:


Guy nice pics,

It might be me, but that air scoop looks like it is restricted by the cowl
exit.

Well the ONLY exit is the radiator, so in a sense it IS restricted. I
thought that might be a good thing, increasing the static pressure in front
of the radiator. I suppose it's possible that the radiator cools around the
edges as much as across the core...

Quote:
Bob Robertson is a good guy and I would expect he had no cooling issues but
most likely a larger cooling source than a OEM Skystar rad. My rad is
about 4 inch x 20 inch by 2 inch thick with 582.

That sounds about like mine, though I doubt mine is two inches thick, more
like 1.5. It's the stock Skystar unit. I like Murle's aluminum radiator a
lot. I wonder if it's interchangeable with the Skystar unit?

Quote:
Fuel flow can be checked static as well. You will need min. 6 to 7 gals
free flow per hour from gravity alone.

I had 12 gph static sitting on the wheels with 1 gallon in the tanks. I
plan to put the mains on 10" ramps and check it again.

Quote:
You should get increased fuel flow from Pitot tubes on caps if they sealed
properly.

Yeah, I heard about the sealing problem. It's a good reminder to make sure
they seal well.

Quote:
Sharp looking Kitfox and I hope the temperature does not run as red as the
paint job Smile

Thanks.

Quote:
I see that it is 99.9 % done - does that mean a test flight any day now ?

My DAR will be in town the 17th. I'm hoping to have it inspected within the
week. I think I'll then trailer it up to Corona and have Dave Stevenson
check it out and fly it. Bottom line - less than two weeks.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:03 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

At 04:57 AM 6/14/2006, you wrote:
Quote:
Guy,
Nice pics.

Thanks.

Quote:
You can do a fuel flow check easily by taking loose the fuel
line at the input of the fuel pump and letting it gravity drain in a bucket.
You want 150% fuel flow based on the max fuel usage of the engine or say,
150% X 7 gallons = 10.5 gallons per hour.

I did that and got about 12 gph with 1 gallon in the tanks. I'm going to do
it again with the mains on ramps.

Quote:
I noticed something in your picture that I think it wrong. Your fuel
pump is mounted on it's side and should be mounted flat with the pulse line
on the bottom. I've read this in several articles and not sure how
important it is. I've seen a batch of ultralights with the pump mounted on
it side.

Yes. I've heard about this. The micro drain for the pulse pump is in the
input elbow which enters the center of the back side of the pump. Thus,
with the pump sideways the pressure side of the pump will eventually fill
with fluid to half way, possibly reducing the efficiency of the pump. (I
haven't decided if it will, as theoretically the pump would work even full
of fluid, but with some reduction in efficiency caused by the increased
fluid friction of the liquid.) However, the hole for the drain is so small,
(so as to minimize the pulse loss,) that I have serious doubts it would
drain fuel if horizontal! (Small hole syndrome. Wink Of course, once the
pulsing started it would probably spit out any fuel in that cavity.)
Unfortunately my pump was mounted when I got the aircraft; It's what
Skystar recommended; no SB or SL's come out about it; and many others have
mounted them the same way. I think I will replace the input elbow with one
with no hole, then drill a similar sized hole in the bottom of the pulse
cavity - same effect, vertical mount.

Quote:
Just curious as to why you need to do another hours worth of high speed
engine running???

I want to check the extreme climb, empty tank flow and the extreme descent,
empty tank time to exhaustion.
Guy Buchanan
K-IV 1200 / 582-C / Warp / 99.9% done, thanks mostly to Bob Ducar.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2006 7:19 am    Post subject: More 582 Temperature Questions Reply with quote

"Well the ONLY exit is the radiator, so in a sense it IS restricted. I
thought that might be a good thing, increasing the static pressure in front
of the radiator. I suppose it's possible that the radiator cools around the
edges as much as across the core..."

Guy, one of the rules of thumb is that adequate cooling requires 3 times the exit area in relation to the inlet area.  There are always exceptions, but it is possible that restricting the flow of air through the engine compartment increases the heat-soak condition previously described.  Note that in Don's previous post that he was getting 10* temp drop through the radiator.  That number is consistant with other reports seen in the past.  I believe that the 582 is expected to operate in a free-air environment.
 
John Kerr
 
[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: Guy Buchanan <bnn(at)nethere.com>

Quote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan

At 10:34 PM 6/13/2006, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave"
>
>Guy nice pics,
>
>It might be me, but that air scoop looks like it is restricted by the cowl
>exit.

Well the ONLY exit is the radiator, so in a sense it IS restricted. I
thought that might be a good thing, increasing the static pressure in front
of the radiator. I suppose it's possible that the radiator cools around the
edges as much as across the core...

>Bob Robertson is a good guy and I would expect he had no cooling issues but
>most likely a larger c ooling source than a OEM Skystar rad. My rad is
>about 4 inch x 20 inch by 2 inch thick with 582.

That sounds about like mine, though I doubt mine is two inches thick, more
like 1.5. It's the stock Skystar unit. I like Murle's aluminum radiator a
lot. I wonder if it's interchangeable with the Skystar unit?

>Fuel flow can be checked static as well. You will need min. 6 to 7 gals
>free flow per hour from gravity alone.

I had 12 gph static sitting on the wheels with 1 gallon in the tanks. I
plan to put the mains on 10" ramps and check it again.

>You should get increased fuel flow from Pitot tubes on caps if they sealed
>properly.

Yeah, I heard about the sealing problem. It's a good reminder to make sure
they seal well.

>Sharp looking Kitfox and I hope the temperature does not run as red as the
& gt; &g >>


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