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larkrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:40 pm Post subject: doors |
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Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been
asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has
anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I
have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave
the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40
clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from
flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes
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philperry9
Joined: 23 Nov 2011 Posts: 381
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:47 pm Post subject: doors |
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I think you will want both halves together for the hinge fitting. The doors are going to morph around enough that the hinges would likely bind later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com (larkrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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Strasnuts
Joined: 10 Feb 2009 Posts: 502 Location: Salt Lake City, UT
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:57 pm Post subject: doors |
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Rick,
Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the hinges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect them.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com (larkrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 3:38 pm Post subject: doors |
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I agree with this as well. Wait until door halves are bonded to install hinges.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 23, 2013, at 5:57 PM, Seano <sean(at)braunandco.com (sean(at)braunandco.com)> wrote:
[quote]Rick,
Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the hinges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect them.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com (larkrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Quote: |
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
===================================
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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cs.com
===================================
matronics.com/contribution
===================================
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kearney
Joined: 20 Sep 2008 Posts: 563
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 3:59 pm Post subject: doors |
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Hi Rick
The doors are a major pain. The fit WILL change SS you go through the fitting process. I installed the billet handles after the fact. It was not a big deal. The doors and the fitting is a big job.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-06-23, at 3:40 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10(at)gmail.com (larkrv10(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote]
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
Quote: |
===================================
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
===================================
cs.com
===================================
matronics.com/contribution
===================================
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[b]
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flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 4:19 pm Post subject: doors |
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The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
[quote]
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13 [b]
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast. Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 4:32 pm Post subject: doors |
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That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
[quote]
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:03 pm Post subject: doors |
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So no issue with added weight or the potential of retaining moisture or water in the filled doors?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 5:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com (flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Quote: |
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13 |
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6428 - Release Date: 06/20/13
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
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davidsoutpost(at)comcast. Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:46 pm Post subject: doors |
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Foam adds very little weight to the door, stiffens the door considerably and there should not be any exterior openings for water to enter if you drill your filling holes on the interior side of the doors and plug them when you are done. All of the Rutan based plans built aircraft such as the Long-EZ and Cozy are made of foam sandwiched by fiberglass. Here's an old demo video from Burt himself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eUt0YnNF3o
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 11:03:08 PM
Subject: RE: doors
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} <![endif]--> <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
So no issue with added weight or the potential of retaining moisture or water in the filled doors?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 5:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: doors
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com (flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Quote: |
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13 |
0 ==============[/b][/quote] V10-List Email Forum -[/b][/quote] e> pre> tor?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List[/b][/quote] ==============[/b][/quote] bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -[/b][/quote] e> rget="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com[/b][/quote] ==============[/b][/quote] bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -[/b][/quote] bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.[/b][/quote] bution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution[/b][/quote] ==============[/b] [/quote]1
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
p>
���~��,���%��M4���x����w�r����
[quote][b]
| - The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:37 pm Post subject: doors |
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Awesome video.
Robin
Do Not Archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:46 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
Foam adds very little weight to the door, stiffens the door considerably and there should not be any exterior openings for water to enter if you drill your filling holes on the interior side of the doors and plug them when you are done. All of the Rutan based plans built aircraft such as the Long-EZ and Cozy are made of foam sandwiched by fiberglass. Here's an old demo video from Burt himself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eUt0YnNF3o
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Robin Marks" <robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com (robin(at)PaintTheWeb.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 11:03:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
So no issue with added weight or the potential of retaining moisture or water in the filled doors?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 5:32 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com (flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Quote: |
Hi all. I can’t seem to find in the archives if this question has been asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13 |
0
==============
V10-List Email Forum -
e> pre> tor?RV10-List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==============
bsp; - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
e> rget="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==============
bsp; - List Contribution Web Site -
bsp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
bution" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
============== 1
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
p>
���~��,���%��M4���x����w�r����
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1 2 3 4 5
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3199/6428 - Release Date: 06/20/13
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bill.peyton
Joined: 19 Sep 2010 Posts: 198 Location: St. Louis, MO
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Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 5:38 am Post subject: Re: doors |
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Rick,
It would not be wise to try to drill the hinges until after the doors are bonded. I installed foam inside the doors in selected areas for insulating purposes. I also was able to install the center door latch prior to bonding the second door. It actually was a lot easier. The only thing you need to be aware of with the center door latch is to make sure it is installed no lower than what is called out in the instructions. A little higher, like 1/16", is better. The reason for this is the latching cam will rub on the Mcmaster-Carr trim as the door closes, and once it is bonded in place there is no way to change it.
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WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC |
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Gordon Anderson
Joined: 16 Apr 2012 Posts: 41 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:44 pm Post subject: doors |
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For stiffening the doors I would also recommend filling the epoxy with flox and not cab-o-sil (p45-05, step 5) as suggested in the plans. I tried both. With micro it was easy and oh so amusing to pull the door halves apart. The flox is rock solid and noticeably stiffer.
After bonding you can use a high power light (e.g. 150W flood lamp) to backlight the joint and spot if you left any voids. It helps to leave one void deliberately to calibrate your inspection process
Cheers,
Gordon
41015 Switzerland
On Jun 24, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Rick Lark wrote:
[quote]Hey thx to all that replied. I expected that bonding the doors first would be the general consensus. I guess the Plane Around latch is easy enough to install after the fact. I like the idea of using low expansion foam in any voids. I will take a good look before I do the bonding and figure out where to drill some holes.
Regards, Rick
On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 8:32 PM, <davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
Quote: | That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com (flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com)>
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Jackm
Joined: 23 Jun 2013 Posts: 8
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Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: doors |
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Rick,
I agree with all the above...one thing I would add is when you go to cleco your door skins to the fuse, One,make sure your cabin top is bolted to fuse in place as you would on final install and Two DO NOT use the two fore and aft dimple index to fix the doors to the fuse during epoxy fit. I found the indicator dimples to be aprox 3/16 to high on the door on ours. You will find the doors will be too low when you go trim to the cabin top opening. I did this on left door and had to roll the complete door up to get adequate clearance between the lower jam and door. You don't want this as you formed the door to fit the cabin top curve. Right side we built spacers for the lower and sides to fit between the jam and door inner ledge. Remember to add the door skins thickness dim to the spacer as the door needs to drop down to be flush with the cabin top when you trim door to fit the opening. This will also ensure that Seans latch will clear the lower jam when you install them. Hope this makes sense....I almost threw away the left door after I realized what I did.
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jrlark
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 72
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Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 2:32 pm Post subject: doors |
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Thx Jack
I also had index holes that didn't match up worth a darn, so I used a spacer to raise the doors and then drilled the doors to the fuse all this while the top was bolted to the fuse. I'm hoping they are high enough to have Sean's latch clears the McMaster seal. Thx, Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-06-25, at 1:53 AM, "Jackm" <jackm(at)vinetechequipment.com> wrote:
Quote: |
Rick,
I agree with all the above...one thing I would add is when you go to cleco your door skins to the fuse, One,make sure your cabin top is bolted to fuse in place as you would on final install and Two DO NOT use the two fore and aft dimple index to fix the doors to the fuse during epoxy fit. I found the indicator dimples to be aprox 3/16 to high on the door on ours. You will find the doors will be too low when you go trim to the cabin top opening. I did this on left door and had to roll the complete door up to get adequate clearance between the lower jam and door. You don't want this as you formed the door to fit the cabin top curve. Right side we built spacers for the lower and sides to fit between the jam and door inner ledge. Remember to add the door skins thickness dim to the spacer as the door needs to drop down to be flush with the cabin top when you trim door to fit the opening. This will also ensure that Seans latch will clear the lower jam when you install them. Hope !
this makes sense....I almost threw away the left door after I realized what I did.
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Jackm
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=403371#403371
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