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MOD 78
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djaflyact

Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Posts: 27

Posted: Thu Oct 24, 2013 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: MOD 78

OK - Just as I was starting to feel like this mod was going to go OK.....  If I have to remove the controls and the tufnol block, then there is the issue of the fiberglass that is used to mount the wing root fairing. I assume that I have to just grind through all that too? The grinding of fiberglass is easier than carbon, so maybe it won't be too bad. I will not take all of the root rib glass off, fearing grinding into the root rib, which would not be good. 



I still think that splicing into the existing fiberglass on the spar to root rib junction would work fine, but you are right - it has not been tested.



I've finished the grinding, but now have more. I do have one question: The Ampreg 21 says best to use between 18 and 25 degrees C. What is the real world on this? RIght now, the weather is perfect as far as temperature and wind, but in the not too distant future, the temperature will drop to where we will not see above 15C for quite some time. Having to do more grinding pushed me into the colder weather. I have a large hangar, which is very difficult to heat.



Thanks for all the inputs.



Dave

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neveyre(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:58 am Post subject: MOD 78

Dave,

  If I were doing it, I would remove the tufnol block and feather off the glass on the Rib for 6'', scuff for 9'' and probably leave the fairing lay up alone, just scuff it. Feather it best you can [ or until you get fed up ! ]

  Ampreg 21 is cr*p ! Needs to be warmed well above 25 to make it thin enough to use. Even on hot [ for here] days I shove the can in front of a fan heater.

  Look in the can now, chances are if it was stored over here for a while and got cold it will be like porridge [ or what is that awful breakfast you guys have, ''grits'' ? ] yuk ! You will have to really warm it to have the grits fall out of suspension, done once it will stay clear.

  Ampreg 21 with std hardener is pretty well useless to use, flashes off in the pot, then takes an age to cure on the job, at least with the slow hardener, even when you have warmed the resin, you have a reasonable time to get it on the job, still mix it in small quantities, and dump it into a roller tray for use with the roller.

  Keeping the resin warm, and perhaps the wetting out bench with a fan heater blowing over it will let you be able to wet out the cloth OK, once you have done the lay ups, and peel plied them, being at 15C for a while until it starts to cure won't be a problem.Then make up some sort of fireproof tent / box / duct to let you warm it to 20 + overnight with some sort of dry heat [ no kerosene / propane ]

  Cheers,

  Nev.

  

  

  --

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churchy

Joined: 04 Nov 2011
Posts: 48

Posted: Fri Oct 25, 2013 6:24 pm Post subject: MOD 78

Sent from my iPad



On 25 Oct 2013, at 23:57, Neville Eyre <neveyre(at)aol.com (neveyre(at)aol.com)> wrote:

[quote] Dave,

  If I were doing it, I would remove the tufnol block and feather off the glass on the Rib for 6'', scuff for 9'' and probably leave the fairing lay up alone, just scuff it. Feather it best you can [ or until you get fed up ! ]

  Ampreg 21 is cr*p ! Needs to be warmed well above 25 to make it thin enough to use. Even on hot [ for here] days I shove the can in front of a fan heater.

  Look in the can now, chances are if it was stored over here for a while and got cold it will be like porridge [ or what is that awful breakfast you guys have, ''grits'' ? ] yuk ! You will have to really warm it to have the grits fall out of suspension, done once it will stay clear.

  Ampreg 21 with std hardener is pretty well useless to use, flashes off in the pot, then takes an age to cure on the job, at least with the slow hardener, even when you have warmed the resin, you have a reasonable time to get it on the job, still mix it in small quantities, and dump it into a roller tray for use with the roller.

  Keeping the resin warm, and perhaps the wetting out bench with a fan heater blowing over it will let you be able to wet out the cloth OK, once you have done the lay ups, and peel plied them, being at 15C for a while until it starts to cure won't be a problem.Then make up some sort of fireproof tent / box / duct to let you warm it to 20 + overnight with some sort of dry heat [ no kerosene / propane ]

  Cheers,

  Nev.

  

  

  --

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djaflyact

Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Posts: 27

Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: MOD 78

Update:    After countless hours and many days of work, the final wrap layers of carbon fibre cloth have been applied. They are cooking as I type. I've learned a few things and so far, it has been going well. I have to say that if the spar ends up not fitting into the airplane, I have no idea what to do to make it fit. I could not have been more careful. 



I'm using foam panels and a thermostatically controlled heater to keep it at about 25C for the cure. That worked well. The resin news to be 18C minimum to work.



I made a template for the location of the aileron bell crank hole and decided to find the hole after each layup of 2 layers. I drilled it out each time. Thought about probing with a needle and marking it, but it was easy to find through 2 layers.



Haven't measured the thickness yet. Should be able to attempt fitting it into the airplane about Monday.



This is a huge job, but it seems like each step is fairly straight forward. If you are doing it, gather all the tips from all sources and then plunge in with common sense. THANK YOU to Neville for his irreplaceable help!!!!



Dave 

A227

Motorglider Mono (Mini U2)

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alan.twigg775(at)gmail.co
Guest

Posted: Thu Nov 14, 2013 1:16 am Post subject: MOD 78

Dave, Nev kept mine nice and thin. I am fitting the wings for the first time today.

Regards

Alan Twigg

Motorglider

Kit 463



Sent from my iPhone



 	  Quote: 	
		   On 14 Nov 2013, at 02:45, "djaflyact" <djaflyact(at)gmail.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Update:    After countless hours and many days of work, the final wrap layers of carbon fibre cloth have been applied. They are cooking as I type. I've learned a few things and so far, it has been going well. I have to say that if the spar ends up not fitting into the airplane, I have no idea what to do to make it fit. I could not have been more careful. 

 

 I'm using foam panels and a thermostatically controlled heater to keep it at about 25C for the cure. That worked well. The resin news to be 18C minimum to work.

 

 I made a template for the location of the aileron bell crank hole and decided to find the hole after each layup of 2 layers. I drilled it out each time. Thought about probing with a needle and marking it, but it was easy to find through 2 layers.

 

 Haven't measured the thickness yet. Should be able to attempt fitting it into the airplane about Monday.

 

 This is a huge job, but it seems like each step is fairly straight forward. If you are doing it, gather all the tips from all sources and then plunge in with common sense. THANK YOU to Neville for his irreplaceable help!!!!

 

 Dave 

 A227

 Motorglider Mono (Mini U2)

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413011#413011

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