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woxofswa

Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 349
Location: AZ

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:05 am Post subject: Seat question

I just got my interior kit from Abby at Flightline and I am quite pleased. 



In attaching the seat bottom cushion it dawned on me that it will be a PITA to attach the seat retainer plunger.  Unless I'm missing something, you have undo everything to put the nuts on the inside of the frame. The only solution I've come up with is to put nut plates on the inside of the frame right below the "do not alter or modify" sticker. Any ideas?

_________________
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014

rleffler

Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:41 am Post subject: Seat question

I put nut plates on the outside of the black bracket.   I then can in install the bolts from the inside of the seat frame.   



No more attempting to get a wrench in that small space. 



It looks ugly, but since it's next to impossible see, nobody will notice but you. 



Sent from my iPhone



On Nov 22, 2013, at 1:05 PM, "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> wrote:






I just got my interior kit from Abby at Flightline and I am quite pleased. 



In attaching the seat bottom cushion it dawned on me that it will be a PITA to attach the seat retainer plunger.  Unless I'm missing something, you have undo everything to put the nuts on the inside of the frame. The only solution I've come up with is to put nut plates on the inside of the frame right below the "do not alter or modify" sticker. Any ideas?



--------

Myron Nelson

Mesa, AZ

Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413796#413796

_________________
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler

schmoboy

Joined: 26 Feb 2006
Posts: 130

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:42 am Post subject: Seat question

I "altered or modified" for the same reasons you mentioned. 



See here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephensville/9684701079/



On 11/22/13, 12:05 PM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I just got my interior kit from Abby at Flightline and I am quite pleased.



 In attaching the seat bottom cushion it dawned on me that it will be a PITA to attach the seat retainer plunger.  Unless I'm missing something, you have undo everything to put the nuts on the inside of the frame. The only solution I've come up with is to put nut plates on the inside of the frame right below the "do not alter or modify" sticker. Any ideas?



 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413796#413796

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:46 am Post subject: Re: Seat question

Myron,



Mount the seat plunger before installing the bottom cushion. I did install nutplates and they work great. Some have also threaded the side rail, doing away with the need for any type of nuts. Probably not as strong that way.



Jim Berry

RV-10

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 11:27 am Post subject: Seat question

I have a removable seat cushion and nut plates on the plunger.  Works great.

I also have the IFLYRV10 seat slide lever.  Works great.  www.iflyrv10.com 



Rene' Felker

N423CF

801-721-6080



--

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 11:45 am Post subject: Seat question

Yep, Flightline does a nice job and it is a very nice seat.



Yes, the plunger is a bit of pain to remove/install.   Yes,  you have to 

half lift out the bottom cushion to get at it (not everything)  But 

having done it about a half a dozen times over 2 years of flying, it's 

really not that bad.   In my opinion, not worth doing the whole nutplate 

thing.



BTW, if you put the nutplates on the plunger, you still have to lift out 

the cushion, so the inside rail is where you want the nutplates I would 

suppose.  However, with the Flight line side panels, getting a bolt 

turned and out gets tough.  Not sure there is enough clearance to get a 

ratchet of any normal kind on it. Without the nutplates, I put an open 

end wrench on the plunger side and a ratchet on the seat side and it all 

works pretty easily.



Unlike during the build, when flying you will probably only remove the 

seat for 1) Condition Inspections (to get under the seat) and 2) to get 

in the center tunnel (for the Condition Inspection).  So consider that 

against the amount of work you may want to do.



However, what is a bigger PITA, especially in a carpeted interior, is 

having to remove the flap actuator/horn covers in order to remove the seats.



Recently, just after my condition inspection, I had to get back in the 

center tunnel and that required removing the seats again. Having to 

remove the rear seats, lift the carpet, unscrew the two covers and 

otherwise trash the interior just to remove the two seats IS a PITA.  

And this time I didn't even mind the plunger removal/install.



The two different fixes for that has been posted and documented; 1) 

grind away a fraction of the seat rail or 2) cut back the Delrin/Nylon 

seat slides in the seat.  Number 2 is what I did and it is definitely 

the way to go.  I removed exactly 3/8" and beveled the cut at 45deg in 

the obvious direction.  Works perfectly.   Now I can remove the seat by 

just removing the plungers and sliding the seat out.



Definitely do the seat slide/rail cutting, especially if you have a 

carpeted floor.   I wll continue on without nutplates.



Bill "done with the seats for awhile" Watson



On 11/22/2013 1:05 PM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I just got my interior kit from Abby at Flightline and I am quite pleased.



 In attaching the seat bottom cushion it dawned on me that it will be a PITA to attach the seat retainer plunger.  Unless I'm missing something, you have undo everything to put the nuts on the inside of the frame. The only solution I've come up with is to put nut plates on the inside of the frame right below the "do not alter or modify" sticker. Any ideas?



 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413796#413796

Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:55 pm Post subject: Seat question

I don't know if Geoff Combs has advertised it yet, but he has come up 

with a very nice lever extension to the front of the seat that gives 

easier access and more leverage.



On 11/22/2013 12:27 PM, Rene Felker wrote:

[quote] 



 I have a removable seat cushion and nut plates on the plunger.  Works great.

 I also have the IFLYRV10 seat slide lever.  Works great.  www.iflyrv10.com



 Rene' Felker

 N423CF

 801-721-6080



 --

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

rleffler

Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:10 pm Post subject: Seat question

Yep.......



http://aerosportproducts.com/seat lever.htm



Sent from my iPhone



On Nov 22, 2013, at 3:54 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> wrote:






I don't know if Geoff Combs has advertised it yet, but he has come up with a very nice lever extension to the front of the seat that gives easier access and more leverage.



[quote] On 11/22/2013 12:27 PM, Rene Felker wrote:

 

 

 I have a removable seat cushion and nut plates on the plunger.  Works great.

 I also have the IFLYRV10 seat slide lever.  Works great.  www.iflyrv10.com

 

 Rene' Felker

 N423CF

 801-721-6080

 

 --

_________________
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler

wgreenley

Joined: 09 Jan 2010
Posts: 100
Location: Dowagiac, MI

Posted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 1:20 pm Post subject: Seat question

Slight edit, it should be:

http://aerosportproducts.com/seatlever.htm

--

woxofswa

Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 349
Location: AZ

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:54 am Post subject: Re: Seat question

Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?

_________________
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014

Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:00 am Post subject: Seat question

The seats can also be mounted from the front if you just unbolt the 

stick and lay it out of the way.



On 11/23/2013 6:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?



 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

woxofswa

Joined: 12 Aug 2008
Posts: 349
Location: AZ

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:20 am Post subject: Re: Seat question

Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection bus ... Under the seat pan.

_________________
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014

johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:23 am Post subject: Re: Seat question

Take a look at this VAF forum link - it explains the track mod:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57756&highlight=seat+rail+mod

John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:24 am Post subject: Seat question

You don't have to take stick off, just take bolt out and lay it on the 

floor. Hopefully you left some slack in the wiring.

On 11/23/2013 7:20 AM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection bus ... Under the seat pan.



 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413861#413861

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:29 am Post subject: Seat question

The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail.  The metal 

part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in  is not touched so externally 

there is no visible change.  (You'll see when you take a close look at 

the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the 

rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).



It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped 

out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did 

bevel mine) and reinstalled.  A painless and easy bit of work that can 

be done now or later.



I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed 

rear part of the rail itself.  It's the most obvious approach.  This 

requires some metal grinding.  Though the results are mostly hidden,  it 

looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work.  It's not 

obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.



Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't 

find them easily.  I wish I had photographed my work.



Bill  Watson

On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?



 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859

davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 6:59 am Post subject: Seat question

Yes.  There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail.  As others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed.  I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the tunnel.  Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location.  Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with longer ones.  I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails.    No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer.

From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM

Subject: Re: Re: Seat question

--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>

The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail.  The metal 

part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in  is not touched so externally 

there is no visible change.  (You'll see when you take a close look at 

the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the 

rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).

It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped 

out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did 

bevel mine) and reinstalled.  A painless and easy bit of work that can 

be done now or later.

I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed 

rear part of the rail itself.  It's the most obvious approach.  This 

requires some metal grinding.  Though the results are mostly hidden,  it 

looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work.  It's not 

obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.

Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't 

find them easily.  I wish I had photographed my work.

Bill  Watson

On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com>

 Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?

 --------

 Myron Nelson

 Mesa, AZ

 Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.

 Read this topic online here:

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859

<-=           (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<==============

 [quote][b]

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:55 am Post subject: Seat question

If I understand correctly, that negates       the need to anything with the T-handles.Â  (I have to keep them       outboard due to an center console/O2 tank).

       

       I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but       couldn't figure it out.Â  I'll have to take another look.Â  Thanks!

       Bill

       

       

       On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net) wrote:

     

     [quote]                Yes.Â  There is absolutely no           reason to trim the rear seat rail.Â  As others have done, I           removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends,           beveled the tips and re-installed.Â  I also swapped my seat           rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the           tunnel.Â  Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this           location.Â  Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and           drilled though the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and           replaced the AN4 bolts with longer ones.Â  I can now remove my           seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible bolts           holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails.           Â Â  No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get           the seats off any longer.

         

         

         

                  From: "Bill           Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)

           To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

           Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM

           Subject: Re: Re: Seat question

           

           

           --> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson           <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)

           

           

           The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail.           Â The metal 

           part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in Â is not touched so           externally 

           there is no visible change. Â (You'll see when you take a close           look at 

           the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that           trimming the 

           rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).

           

           

           It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be           slipped 

           out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required           though I did 

           bevel mine) and reinstalled. Â A painless and easy bit of work           that can 

           be done now or later.

           

           

           I think the first people that tried to address this situation           trimmed 

           rear part of the rail itself. Â It's the most obvious approach.           Â This 

           requires some metal grinding. Â Though the results are mostly           hidden, Â it 

           looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. Â It's           not 

           obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.

           

           

           Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but           I can't 

           find them easily. Â I wish I had photographed my work.

           

           

           Bill Â Watson

           On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

           > --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa"           <woxof(at)aol.com> (woxof(at)aol.com)

           >

           > Thanks for the responses. Â I think I'm going to go with           the nut plates on the inside. Â I am intrigued by the rail           guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you           trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the           aft to clear the cover?

           >

           > --------

           > Myron Nelson

           > Mesa, AZ

           > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on           gear. Â FWF complete.

           >

           >

           >

           >

           > Read this topic online here:

           >

           > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859

           >

           >

           >

           >

           >

           >

           >

           >

           >

           ><-= Â  Â  Â  Â  Â  (And Get Some AWESOME FREE           Gifts!)<==============

           

           

           

           

           

         

         

         

       

        	  Quote: 	
		  



	
     [b]

davidsoutpost(at)comcast.
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 9:53 am Post subject: Seat question

That's right Bill.  No need to remove the T handles to remove the seat doing it this way.



From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com>

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 11:54:53 AM

Subject: Re: Re: Seat question

If I understand correctly, that negates the need to anything with the T-handles.  (I have to keep them outboard due to an center console/O2 tank).

 

 I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but couldn't figure it out.  I'll have to take another look.  Thanks!

 Bill

 

 

 On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net (davidsoutpost(at)comcast.net) wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  Yes.  There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail.  As others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed.  I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the tunnel.  Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location.  Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with longer ones.  I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails.    No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer.



From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

 Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM

 Subject: Re: Re: Seat question

--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com> (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)

The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail.  The metal 

 part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in  is not touched so externally 

 there is no visible change.  (You'll see when you take a close look at 

 the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the 

 rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).

It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped 

 out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did 

 bevel mine) and reinstalled.  A painless and easy bit of work that can 

 be done now or later.

I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed 

 rear part of the rail itself.  It's the most obvious approach.  This 

 requires some metal grinding.  Though the results are mostly hidden,  it 

 looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work.  It's not 

 obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.

Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't 

 find them easily.  I wish I had photographed my work.

Bill  Watson

 On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

 > --> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com> (woxof(at)aol.com)

 >

 > Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?

 >

 > --------

 > Myron Nelson

 > Mesa, AZ

 > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.

 >

 >

 >

 >

 > Read this topic online here:

 >

 > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 >

 ><-=           (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<==============



 	  Quote: 	
		  



	




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 [quote][b]

dmaib@me.com

Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 3:56 pm Post subject: Seat question

I believe I beveled the delrin without even removing it from the seat structure. Took all of five minutes.



David Maib

40559

700 hours



On Nov 23, 2013, at 9:29 AM, Bill Watson wrote:

--> RV10-List message posted by: Bill Watson <Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com (Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com)>



The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail.  The metal part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in  is not touched so externally there is no visible change.  (You'll see when you take a close look at the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).



It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did bevel mine) and reinstalled.  A painless and easy bit of work that can be done now or later.



I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed rear part of the rail itself.  It's the most obvious approach.  This requires some metal grinding.  Though the results are mostly hidden,  it looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work.  It's not obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.



Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't find them easily.  I wish I had photographed my work.



Bill  Watson

On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "woxofswa" <woxof(at)aol.com (woxof(at)aol.com)>



Thanks for the responses.  I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.  I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?



--------

Myron Nelson

Mesa, AZ

Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear.  FWF complete.





Read this topic online here:



http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859





http://www.matronics======================== David Maib

dmaib(at)me.com (dmaib(at)me.com)

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_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL

dhmoose

Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 29
Location: Portland, OR

Posted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:58 pm Post subject: Re: Seat question

 	  schmoboy wrote: 	
		  I "altered or modified" for the same reasons you mentioned. 



See here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephensville/9684701079/



	




Bingo! This is exactly what I had in mind to avoid removal of the seat cushion. I was concerned about modifying the seat rail and also about access for the bolt. Are you happy on both accounts?

_________________
David Halmos
RV-10
Flying!
Portland, OR

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