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If it ain't broke, don't fix it

 
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djaflyact



Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:37 am    Post subject: If it ain't broke, don't fix it Reply with quote

Well, mod 78 progresses. I keep hearing the phrase "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" over and over in my head. The spars are complete except for post cure and the setting of the bushings in the wing. It says to open the holes up to 7/8 inch for the bushes. They are a fairly tight fit. I think there should be some slop in there to allow resetting of the dihedral.

The spar is as thin as I could make it. Yesterday was the trial fit of the left wing. Nothing has changed except for the spar dimensions, so it should go right in. It does……..except for the last 1/8 inch. Frustrating.

I've replaced the top air brake bracket screws with flush and it looks like the added BID that is in the upper corner of the tunnel has some high points that are contacting the spar and preventing the aft pin on the fuselage side from going all the way in, due to the spar not being quite all the way forward. I hope so, because I don't know what else it could be. The difficulty is that it is difficult to see what is going on in the tunnel and the wing root fairings prevent seeing what is going on with the sockets - especially the forward one. Not looking forward to reaching in there and sanding and sanding and sanding.

I'll attach pictures. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

I do have an oven setup for post cure, however. Using foam panels and a thermostatically controlled heater, I am able to maintain a range of 120 to 125F. That is measured by a meat thermometer at spar level in the box. It can also ramp up the temperature like prescribed.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Dave A227
Mini U2


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Post cure setup.JPG
 Description:
Post Cure Oven.
 Filesize:  31.53 KB
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Post cure setup.JPG



Socket not in.JPG
 Description:
Pin not quite in - 1/8 to go. Close, but no cigar.
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Socket not in.JPG



HUMP.JPG
 Description:
Possible interference. Hard to see in the picture, but I'll be using a remote camera today
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HUMP.JPG


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christoph.both(at)acadiau
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 7:54 am    Post subject: If it ain't broke, don't fix it Reply with quote

Inserting a very small web cam located inside the wing root filet might
give a good view upon insertion what is going on?
Christoph Both
Wolfville, Canada
#223 Flying

On 13-11-21 11:37 AM, "djaflyact" <djaflyact(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Quote:


Well, mod 78 progresses. I keep hearing the phrase "if it ain't broke,
don't fix it" over and over in my head. The spars are complete except for
post cure and the setting of the bushings in the wing. It says to open
the holes up to 7/8 inch for the bushes. They are a fairly tight fit. I
think there should be some slop in there to allow resetting of the
dihedral.

The spar is as thin as I could make it. Yesterday was the trial fit of
the left wing. Nothing has changed except for the spar dimensions, so it
should go right in. It does……..except for the last 1/8 inch.
Frustrating.

I've replaced the top air brake bracket screws with flush and it looks
like the added BID that is in the upper corner of the tunnel has some
high points that are contacting the spar and preventing the aft pin on
the fuselage side from going all the way in, due to the spar not being
quite all the way forward. I hope so, because I don't know what else it
could be. The difficulty is that it is difficult to see what is going on
in the tunnel and the wing root fairings prevent seeing what is going on
with the sockets - especially the forward one. Not looking forward to
reaching in there and sanding and sanding and sanding.

I'll attach pictures. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

I do have an oven setup for post cure, however. Using foam panels and a
thermostatically controlled heater, I am able to maintain a range of 120
to 125F. That is measured by a meat thermometer at spar level in the box.
It can also ramp up the temperature like prescribed.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Dave A227
Mini U2


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413647#413647


Attachments:

http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_cure_setup_160.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/socket_not_in_645.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hump_192.jpg



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budyerly(at)msn.com
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:26 pm    Post subject: If it ain't broke, don't fix it Reply with quote

Dave,
I had the same problem on one of the three mod 78s I've done.  I hate to say it but since you are quite skilled, cut the fairing and save the piece and make a door to look in.  It's not structural and it makes life so much easier.
 
As for the bushes, you bet it is a problem.  To get a bit of clearance in one aircraft we actually set the dihedral a tenth of a degree short to get the bushes and the spars to clear. 
 
You have my info on the rest of the rig problems.
 
Send your pics to my site for me to review.  I have a completed set of wings that I have to retrofit to a different aircraft.  Not excited about it but I'll keep folks posted.
 
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly

 
Quote:
Subject: If it ain't broke, don't fix it
From: djaflyact(at)gmail.com
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 07:37:50 -0800
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com

--> Europa-List message posted by: "djaflyact" <djaflyact(at)gmail.com>

Well, mod 78 progresses. I keep hearing the phrase "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" over and over in my head. The spars are complete except for post cure and the setting of the bushings in the wing. It says to open the holes up to 7/8 inch for the bushes. They are a fairly tight fit. I think there should be some slop in there to allow resetting of the dihedral.

The spar is as thin as I could make it. Yesterday was the trial fit of the left wing. Nothing has changed except for the spar dimensions, so it should go right in. It does……..except for the last 1/8 inch. Frustrating.

I've replaced the top air brake bracket screws with flush and it looks like the added BID that is in the upper corner of the tunnel has some high points that are contacting the spar and preventing the aft pin on the fuselage side from going all the way in, due to the spar not being quite all the way forward. I hope so, because I don't know what else it could be. The difficulty is that it is difficult to see what is going on in the tunnel and the wing root fairings prevent seeing what is going on with the sockets - especially the forward one. Not looking forward to reaching in there and sanding and sanding and sanding.

I'll attach pictures. Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.

I do have an oven setup for post cure, however. Using foam panels and a thermostatically controlled heater, I am able to maintain a range of 120 to 125F. That is measured by a meat thermometer at spar level in the box. It can also ramp up the temperature like prescribed.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Dave A227
Mini U2




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413647#413647




Attachments:

http://forums.matronics.com//files/post_cure_setup_160.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/socket_not_in_645.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hump_192.jpg



&=======================

&g==================
Quote:





[quote][b]


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djaflyact



Joined: 14 Oct 2013
Posts: 27

PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 9:53 pm    Post subject: Re: If it ain't broke, don't fix it Reply with quote

Update on Mod 78:

I found the problem with a camera on a snake - those things are really cheap now. $60. I went in through the air brake hole. It revealed that the forward socket pin was not fully engaging as well. I used the old socket as a guide to drill the hole through the metal plate and did not get the hole large enough. The pin was contacting the metal and not going all the way in.

I drilled it out larger and now the pin goes in, the aft pin goes in and I was able to get the wing in with all pins engaged. I checked the dihedral and it is right.

I have the starboard wing in its post cure tonight - pulling an all nighter. That was a change of plans. I chickened out on the thermostatically controlled heater. It was cold soaked overnight and over-reacted. INstead, I went with lights and a small heater in the fan mode only. Trial and error ended up with 388 watts to maintain the 50C. Being paranoid and not wanting to overheat the spar, I have 4 measurements of the temperature. It stabilized in the foam panel oven at the right temperature and there is no risk of over temping the spar tang. It is in an insulated hangar and might drop as the night gets colder. I've got a couple trips to make out there in the middle of the night.

Next step is to fit the right wing and set up the rigging cure. glue in the bushings and hopefully the airplane can fly again.

If you are going to do this mod, do it as soon as you can in a non flying airplane. The camera helped with seeing the front pin, but without the root fairing it is much easier.

Bud: I will go with the inspection hole in the fairing if I run into the problems. Thanks for the suggestion. That would be on the bottom and make seeing the socket easy.

Attached pictures of the cure setup tonight. Almost there!

Dave
A227
Mini U2


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TV view of socket.JPG
 Description:
The remote view of the socket after opening the hole in the fuselage metal. This is not changing anything on the socket - just the plate in the fuselage wall.
 Filesize:  67.64 KB
 Viewed:  3843 Time(s)

TV view of socket.JPG



POst Cure Final.JPG
 Description:
The foam panel autoclave. Stable without risk of overheating. Rather than cycle a 1500 watt heater, there is a total of 388 watts of light bulbs. 250 watt halogen, 100 and 38 watt incandescent.
 Filesize:  95.94 KB
 Viewed:  3843 Time(s)

POst Cure Final.JPG


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