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jconnell(at)rconnect.com
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 Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2006 12:33 pm Post subject: Routing magneto and alternator blast tubes... |
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Gentlemen,
I'm building an RV-9A with an O-320 & carb, a Slick Mag,
a P-Mag, and Van's 35 amp alternator. Where should I
direct the blast tubes for the Mag and P-Mag?
I'm thinking they should be directed at the entire Mag rather
than just the distributor cap or the lower section. It appears
the back of the alternator housing the diodes would be the
appropriate spot for cooling air.
Many thanks,
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A N95JJ - Baffling
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gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Fri Jun 16, 2006 6:45 am Post subject: Routing magneto and alternator blast tubes... |
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| Quote: | From: "Joe Connell" <jconnell(at)rconnect.com (jconnell(at)rconnect.com)>
I'm building an RV-9A with an O-320 & carb, a Slick Mag,
a P-Mag, and Van's 35 amp alternator. Where should I
direct the blast tubes for the Mag and P-Mag?
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The alt, the 35 amp one Van sells is an old NipponDenso
alternator for a early 80's Honda. I agree towards the back
at the diodes. Consider a little metal shield on the #1
exhaust pipe held on with hose clamps and standoffs.
The KEY to not heating that small alternator is keep the
battery in good shape, make sure the engine is tuned for
easy starting and let the engine run (and battery charge)
for a little bit (10-15 seconds) before slamming on all the
electric's on. While you are waiting you can adjust the idle
and mixture, clear the area and check the engine gauges.
The reason I say this is your alternator is only 35 amps.
You don't want to load the alternator more than 60-70%
continuous. So 35 x 0.60 is 21.0 amps. A drained battery
right after start can pull 10 amps or more. Throw on all
your radios and lights right after start you might exceed
this arbitrary drain and over heat the alternator, which will
reduce its life. The key is keep the alternator load down
on the ground when airflow is low. For some reason Van's
sells these alternators with out the stock cooling fan, may
be save weight and engine drag (lost HP).
Just because it is rated at 35amps does not mean it can
output that without eventually melting. Plus with the
hot exhaust nearby and the stock fan removed you have
a good chance of cutting the life down real short if you
don't observe some load limits, especially on the ground.
For the mag consider removing the inspection plug and
blowing it right in the housing**. Of course you will want
some kind of filter and screen. An alternative is just at the
side of the mag to promote general cooler airflow for the
hottest part, the coils.
**Speed w/ Economy by Kent Paser
The P-mags? I have no idea, but near the coil or electronics,
spacifically transitiors.
George M. RV-4/RV-7
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