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carlossa52(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:19 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
[quote][b]
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jaybannist(at)cs.com
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:38 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Carlos,
Are you planning to control your radar, missiles and machine guns from that stick ? (;>)
Seriously, why do you need anything more that a PTT button on the stick ?
Jay
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carlossa52(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:51 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Hello, Jay - I don't know how many buttons I need.
I just think it would be better to have too many than to be missing on.
One use that come to mind is activation of trim tabs. Others might come up (or not) when I design the panel and electrical stuff.
(PS: The radar and guns will be voice activated.)
Carlos
On 27 November 2013 21:38, Jay Bannister <jaybannist(at)cs.com (jaybannist(at)cs.com)> wrote:
[quote]Carlos,
Are you planning to control your radar, missiles and machine guns from that stick ? (;>)
Seriously, why do you need anything more that a PTT button on the stick ?
Jay
[b]
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psm(at)att.net
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:55 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Hi Carlos,
16 AWG wire is very large for this application. You will have a hard time finding any sort of connector for this heavy wire. This is the stuff used to wire houses.
I don't remember the name of the control on my plane but it is one of the normal aircraft ones. I think I used 22 AWG wire from it down to the bottom of the stick where I used a normal DB-9 connector set. This allows removal of the stick without rewiring the plane. I also have a bunch of Radio shack terminal blocks mounted behind the seats for the wires going to the stick as well as the ones going out the wings and to the tail. These blocks have little screws that hold the wires in place and are very inexpensive.
My stick is a center Y version. It has PTT on the front and a 4 way trim control on the top. Front and back control pitch trim while left and right control aileron trim.
Good luck,
Paul
Camas, WA
On 11/27/2013 6:18 PM, Carlos Sa wrote:
| Quote: | Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
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[quote][b]
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steve.freeman(at)syntaxds
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:57 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Trim, Flaps, PPT on my stick. Woohooo! I also have a switch on stick that cuts out the flaps so I can’t hit them by accident.
Steve Freeman
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Bannister
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:38 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
Carlos,
Are you planning to control your radar, missiles and machine guns from that stick ? (;>)
Seriously, why do you need anything more that a PTT button on the stick ?
Jay
--
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carlossa52(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 7:24 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Paul, thanks, this is good info.
Carlos
On 27 November 2013 21:54, Paul Mulwitz <psm(at)att.net (psm(at)att.net)> wrote:
[quote] Hi Carlos,
16 AWG wire is very large for this application. You will have a hard time finding any sort of connector for this heavy wire. This is the stuff used to wire houses.
I don't remember the name of the control on my plane but it is one of the normal aircraft ones. I think I used 22 AWG wire from it down to the bottom of the stick where I used a normal DB-9 connector set. This allows removal of the stick without rewiring the plane. I also have a bunch of Radio shack terminal blocks mounted behind the seats for the wires going to the stick as well as the ones going out the wings and to the tail. These blocks have little screws that hold the wires in place and are very inexpensive.
My stick is a center Y version. It has PTT on the front and a 4 way trim control on the top. Front and back control pitch trim while left and right control aileron trim.
Good luck,
Paul
Camas, WA
[b]
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JohnDRead(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:50 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Hi Carlo,
16 gauge wire is way to big for the stick wiring. My stick grips came with 26 gauge wire which is adequate for any servo and the PTT. I wired mine to a 15 pin Dsub. I have a center sub panel in my 701 that has a mating dsub. If you would like a picture please let me know.
Regards, John Read
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
In a message dated 11/27/2013 7:21:07 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, carlossa52(at)gmail.com writes:
| Quote: | Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
|
[quote][b]
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steve.freeman(at)syntaxds
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| Posted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 9:11 pm Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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If you guys need sticks wired email this guy, George Race - george(at)mrrace.com (george(at)mrrace.com). Very reasonable price, excellent workmanship and you will get done what you need done. My sticks work perfectly and are adapted to the environment I wanted.
He customized my Ray Allen Control Sticks. If you go with G307 he can get you some pretty interesting configurations.
If you guys want pictures of my west up let me know.
Steve Freeman
From: owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JohnDRead(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:50 PM
To: zenith-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
Hi Carlo,
16 gauge wire is way to big for the stick wiring. My stick grips came with 26 gauge wire which is adequate for any servo and the PTT. I wired mine to a 15 pin Dsub. I have a center sub panel in my 701 that has a mating dsub. If you would like a picture please let me know.
Regards, John Read
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
In a message dated 11/27/2013 7:21:07 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, carlossa52(at)gmail.com writes:
| Quote: |
Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
| Quote: | | tp://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com/ href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comhttp://www.homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.comhttp://www.mypilotstore.com/">www.mypilotstore.com//www.mrrace.com/">www.mrrace.comp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributionef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-Lists.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com |
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 4:39 am Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Carlos:
Here is the way I would do it - Always remember two things:
1 - The K.I.S.S. M.E. principal and
2 - How, you will make future repairs,if you need them.
The procedure:
a> Solder and Heat Shrink the wires.
b> Do not use a Cable - No room for repairs and difficult to run.
c> Make TWISTED PAIRS - This will keep like wires together AND eliminate noise pick-up.
d> Remember some Twisted Pairs will not be pairs, but three or four wires for a function (exp. TRIM - It has Up and DOWN wires).
e> Make the wires LONG. You can always cut them short, that is easy. But cutting them long... I have not figured out how to do that as yet. (I'm still working on my Aluminum and Stainless Steel Magnets)
f> Keeping with KEEPING the wires LONG - The second reason in doing so is for REPAIRS. It is know as a Service Loop. Very aggravating if you find you are one inch short and have to do splicing in an area that is difficult or impossible to reach.
g> VERY important - Take Pictures of the Grip - As to What Button does what - At least label them A _ B_ C_ D, etc. AND - - - Label the wire pairs to match.
h> The use of a DB15 connector is up to you. A DB15 will give you 15 pins to work with, a DB25 will give you 25 pins to work with. ALWAYS ADD an EXTRA GROUND WIRE. And make sure it goes to a solid electrical ground. NOT just the airframe.
OK - There ya go - Any questions? Please ask. I was an electrical engineer in my past life... Now I'm retired and work as an A&P.
*Barry*
*“Chop’d Liver”*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers. You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa <carlossa52(at)gmail.com (carlossa52(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
| Quote: |
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
ank">www.mrrace.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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[b]
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1018
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 7:32 am Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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I have the Y stick with a pair of infinity grips, each grip has a PTT switch, a 4-way trim switch and a flap switch. I have a relay panel to allow both sticks to control the trim and flap circuits. The relay panel is mounted inside the rudder cable tunnel. The cables from the grips were long enough to attach to the screw terminals on the relay panel with out splices. I used Molex style connectors from there to connect the radio controls from the sticks.
All of the wires from the stick grips are signal wires that carry no significant current, so 22-24 gauge wire would work just fine. 16 gauge wire is way bigger than needed for this application as far as current capacity is concerned but 16 gauge might better tolerate the flexing of the wire around the control stick joints.
On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa wrote:
| Quote: |
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
|
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
| | - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
do not archive. |
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pavel569
Joined: 21 Dec 2007
Posts: 77
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 7:34 am Post subject: Re: wiring the control stick |
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Hi Carlos,
I'm not done yet with mine but I have the same Tosten stick grips as you and I'm planning to use a 10 pin microphone connector. It is round and it fits perfectly inside the control tube. I'll have both sticks removable, so they'll be cut in the bottom half and secured by pin. The connectors will be either solid mounted in each half of the tube or bottom solid and upper half will hang on wires and be fit inside the upper half of the tube after connecting with bottom plug. I'm using 22 AWG single wires.
[quote="carlossa52(at)gmail.com"]
Hello, What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
| | - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________
Pavel
CA
Zodiac 601XL
Stratus Subaru EA-81
Tail, flaps, ailerons, wings, fuselage, canopy done ...
"do not archive" |
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:20 am Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Brian:
Since you are using Molex connectors mit I strongly suggest you put a light coating of Dielectric Grease inside the connector before you attach them AND secure them with a thin Ty-Wrap end to end. This will keep the poor coating of the pins from oxidizing and keep moisture out, as well as never having to worry about a loose connection.
Been there - Done that - Many a time.
*Barry*
*“Chop’d Liver”*
NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers. You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them.
On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net (bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net)> wrote:
[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net (bryanmmartin(at)comcast.net)>
I have the Y stick with a pair of infinity grips, each grip has a PTT switch, a 4-way trim switch and a flap switch. I have a relay panel to allow both sticks to control the trim and flap circuits. The relay panel is mounted inside the rudder cable tunnel. The cables from the grips were long enough to attach to the screw terminals on the relay panel with out splices. I used Molex style connectors from there to connect the radio controls from the sticks.
All of the wires from the stick grips are signal wires that carry no significant current, so 22-24 gauge wire would work just fine. 16 gauge wire is way bigger than needed for this application as far as current capacity is concerned but 16 gauge might better tolerate the flexing of the wire around the control stick joints.
On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa wrote:
>
> What have you used for wiring the control stick?
>
> At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
>
> I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
>
> I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
>
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
===========
="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
"_blank">www.mrrace.com
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
le, List Admin.
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target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
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[b]
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ch701builder(at)yahoo.com
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:31 am Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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Carlos,
I checked, and the web page actually shows 22 AWG. That sounds better than 16 guage. As others had stated, 16 is HUGE for and airplane, (except for your main power and starter cables)
A 15A AC breaker circuit in your house is typical 14 AWG, with 20A circuits being 12 AWG. (depending on the length of runs, and how big of an IR drop you expect)(course there is a difference between AC and DC for calculating cable size)
Also, connectors, 9-pin D or 15-pin D, or other ???? will be alot easier to wire using the 22AWG size wire.
For ideas of what to use the switches for, I can't help, (I'm not that far yet)
Use some the existing guys ideas and branch out from there. Besides missiles, radars, and etc, maybe a flip-flop control for your radio, (if it is equipped as such)
Happy Thanksgiving to all
Keith
CH701 - scratch mostly
N 38.9940
W 105.1305
Alt. 9,100'
From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52(at)gmail.com>
To: "zenith-list(at)matronics.com" <zenith-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:18 PM
Subject: wiring the control stick
Hello,
What have you used for wiring the control stick?
At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.)
I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.)
I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin...
Interested in not reinventing the wheel...
Thanks for your comments
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
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paulrod36(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:14 am Post subject: wiring the control stick |
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<?xml:namespace prefix="v" /><?xml:namespace prefix="o" /><![endif]--> Yeah, man, get it on! MY fighter-style control stick used to be from a video game, came from e-bay, cost less than $20, and has a four-way hat switch for trim, a PTT, a flaps down, a flaps up, and a leftover real neat trigger, for either the guns or the missiles. Once you strip it out of the base, you get a stick handle with all those micro switches, whose cumulative value exceeds cost.
It works, and it's cheap, so what's not to like?
Paul R
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