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Viking engine duel battery setup

 
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lgold(at)quantum-associat
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:39 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Hi Robert,
I know you have concerns about the Viking engine’s electrical system. But I purchased a Zenith aircraft with this engine and want to make the plane as safe as I can. The engine is an “aircraftized” Honda Fit with fuel injection. Since the engine will stop is a fuel pump fails Jan Eggenfeller specified duel redundant fuel pumps and the ability to switch pumps. However, there are no previsions for a duel battery circuit or a way to isolate the battery in case of an alternator fault.
I would like to install two batteries that are both charged from the 55-Amp alternator and also be able to select the battery that powers the plane’s electricals and to isolate the batteries by disconnecting a faulty alternator in flight. I previously built a plane with a Rotax 912 using your wiring diagram, (after attending your great seminar). The Rotax diagram had battery isolation capabilities and was wondering of any of your wiring diagrams describe how to do this for my Viking engine or, if not, can you explain how I can do this properly or at least specify the diodes I need to install in the attached diagram.
Thank you for your help,
Les Goldner
[img]cid:image003.jpg(at)01CF07A6.567864D0[/img]


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 4:58 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 12:35 PM 1/2/2014, you wrote:

Hi Robert,

I know you have concerns about the Viking engine's electrical system.

The Viking engine a derivative of
the Eggenfellner venture which has
suffered a checkered history from
the perspectives of both business
model and engineering . . .

http://tinyurl.com/qclebez

http://tinyurl.com/qclebez

Yes, I have come 'concerns' that extend far beyond
the 'electrical system'.

But I purchased a Zenith aircraft with this engine and want to make
the plane as safe as I can. The engine is an "aircraftized" Honda Fit
with fuel injection. Since the engine will stop is a fuel pump fails
Jan Eggenfeller specified duel redundant fuel pumps and the ability
to switch pumps. However, there are no previsions for a duel battery
circuit or a way to isolate the battery in case of an alternator fault.

Your premise for needing two batteries or needing
to 'isolate them' from a faulted alternator begs
more detailed examination. Alternator 'faults' are
exceedingly rare these days and are generally limited
to mechanical issues (belts and mounts) and wiring
(the thing simply shuts down). There's a small risk
for an overvoltage condition which is classically
managed with a legacy o.v. sense and response system
that has been part and parcel of aircraft alternator
and generator systems for 60+ years.

There is even a smaller probability of a shorted/
open diode array that will either (1) reduce the
alternator's output severely or (2) short the battery
to ground. The both cases will probably manifest with
a low voltage warning with the second case opening
the b-lead fuse.

In other words, there are no demonstrated alternator
faults that go beyond simple failure to function . . .
a condition that does not propagate damage or operational
stress to other parts of the system. Hence, no additional
form of 'isolation' is indicated.

There was some discussions and analysis conducted on
the aviation special interest groups about 18 years
ago concerning the use of diode isolation (ala RV
and boat batteries) for dual batteries on airplanes.

http://tinyurl.com/oss5t4u
I would like to install two batteries that are both charged from the
55-Amp alternator and also be able to select the battery that powers
the plane's electricals and to isolate the batteries by disconnecting
a faulty alternator in flight. I previously built a plane with a
Rotax 912 using your wiring diagram, (after attending your great
seminar). The Rotax diagram had battery isolation capabilities and
was wondering of any of your wiring diagrams describe how to do this
for my Viking engine or, if not, can you explain how I can do this
properly or at least specify the diodes I need to install in the
attached diagram.

You would be well advised to search out, study,
and understand all of the failure modes that
might cause this engine to cease operation . . .
both electrical AND mechanical.

Then rank them in order of probability. Yes
there will be a pile of "don't know" for
probability but at least you have the item
on the list.

The only time I've seen an Eggenfellner
design installed on an aircraft gave me an
opportunity to take this picture . . .

http://tinyurl.com/p5dgz43

The installation gives rise to concerns
for gross complexity (failure risk proportional
to parts count) as well as operational
reliability. Relays generally don't find
their way into the control of critical circuits
on any engine installation, aviation or
otherwise. The fact that this engine seemed
to be 'blessed' with over a dozen such devices
is cause for further examination and understanding.

The point to being offered here is that past
history for Eggenfellner designs suggests
that there may be numerous failure modes
that go beyond simple concerns for keeping
the fuel pumps powered.

We've had some discussions here recently on
electrical system reliability for the electrically
dependent engine . . . exploring the notion
that a well maintained, single battery/alternator
system has a very low failure rate on a par with
other components that might cause engine failure.

A new Z-figure . . .

http://tinyurl.com/kbn6bys

. . . is in it's 5th refinement iteration
and I'm pretty confident that it's final configuration
will be suited to your installation as well without
suffering the weight and cost of ownership penalties
for carrying two batteries . . . just to address
one of many failure modes.

Are the wiring diagrams provided with your engine
available on the 'net? If not, can you scan your
documents for sharing?

Bob . . .


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kleh(at)dialupatcost.ca
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 5:57 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Minor point and I have not dealt with anything newer than 2002, but
every EFI vehicle I've worked on had at least one relay that controlled
essential engine circuits. My aircraft backup EFI does not have any
relays but my primary oem soob efi has the same two as it had in the
car. As far as I could determine, the oem relays have outstanding
reliability.

Have newer vehicles gone to solid state relays?

Ken
On 03/01/2014 7:57 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote:
Relays generally don't find their way into the control of critical
> circuits on any engine installation, aviation or otherwise. The fact

> that this engine seemed to be 'blessed' with over a dozen such
> devices is cause for further examination and understanding.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:36 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 07:57 AM 1/3/2014, you wrote:
Quote:


Minor point and I have not dealt with anything newer than 2002, but
every EFI vehicle I've worked on had at least one relay that
controlled essential engine circuits. My aircraft backup EFI does
not have any relays but my primary oem soob efi has the same two as
it had in the car. As far as I could determine, the oem relays have
outstanding reliability.

Have newer vehicles gone to solid state relays?

I don't know . . . but it's coming. Waaayyyyy
back when, I was finishing up the qualification
paperwork for a pitch trim control system on the
Lears. One of my colleagues was working the Mil-Hdbk-
217 MTBF studies on the design.

He had factored in all the jelly-beans, solder joints,
integrated circuits, and transistors . . . so far so
good . . . MTBF was running about 9,000 hours. THEN
he factored in a mil-spec, hermetically sealed, power
relay . . . whoops! MTBF dropped to about 900 hours!

Seems relays are not highly regarded devices in terms
of impact on reliability. However, the study protocols
did not consider the manner in which I was using the
device . . . it was energized before any current was
allowed to flow in the contacts . . . and de-energized
after current flow ceased. In other words, it never
SWITCHED a load, only carried a load but was available
for responding to the Wheel-Master-Disconnect switch
shutting system down in case of a runaway.

To my knowledge, 30+ years later, no relays have ever
been replaced. The speed control system has proven
very robust also but the monitor system (4x parts count)
and some mechanical environmental issues (box is
mounted in vertical fin under the trim actuator)
have required attention.

Ergo, my statement about the use of relays was perhaps
too broad . . . or at least lacking details. We attempt
to reduce numbers of these things to a minimum . . . they
are after all a mechanical device with moving, arcing
parts. However, there are design concessions for de-rating,
dry-switching, duty-cycle, etc. that go a long way toward
boosting relay reliability.

To be sure, nobody has more interest in component
reliability than the automotive industry. An AD
against an airplane generally involves fewer than
100 airplanes . . . recalls on cars can number
in the millions. I helped some guys qualify an
automotive seat heater onto a Hawker some years
back . . . the specs to which the seat had already
been qualified were impressive! But you wanna put
it on our airplane? Guess what? There's that 80v
surge thingy . . .

I helped them craft an automatic disconnect circuit
that isolated their vulnerable components during
the surge event.

So your observation is on-point. Relays are not
to be shunned out of hand . . . but consider also
the lengths that talented users of relays will
exercise to make them capable players in the
game.

Track records for the purveyors is important.
Just because it's used on a car is not an automatic
pass. A fuse block in my wife's AMC Pacer damned near
set the car on fire . . . twice . . . before I
replaced it.

So let me re-qualify my original reaction to the
photo of Eggenfellner's installation. Given the
gross numbers of relays combined with his track
record, I will suggest that there is cause for
placing ALL of his intellectual and physical product
under the microscope.

Bob . . .


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deej(at)deej.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 8:51 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

On 1/3/2014 7:57 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote:

The only time I've seen an Eggenfellner
design installed on an aircraft gave me an
opportunity to take this picture . . .

http://tinyurl.com/p5dgz43


Are you sure that is a picture of an Eggenfellner installation? It
doesn't look like any Eggenfellner setups that I've seen, but it does
resemble an older NSI setup that I saw at OSH or Sun-n-Fun some years back.

At any rate, it is certainly not typical of what is being installed to
support Subaru engines (Eggenfellner or otherwise) these days. The
Aeroelectric Connection is often used as a reference on the Subaru
lists, but if you want to see the last recommended electrical design
that came from Eggenfellner before they went out of business, you can
download the installation guide from:

http://subenews.deej.net/wiki/index.php/EggH6

Click on the "Eggenfellner Engine Installation Guide" (top link under
the under the Howto Guides section), and go to page 45, and page 51 has
the electrical schematic.

Please note this is not an endorsement, just an informational posting. Smile

fyi

-Dj

--
Dj Merrill - N1JOV - VP EAA Chapter 87
Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/


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jluckey(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

It should be noted that the primary reason for such circuitry is to prevent paralleling the two independent batteries thru the charging system.


From: Les Goldner <lgold(at)quantum-associates.com>
To: Aeroelectric list <aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2014 10:35 AM
Subject: Viking engine duel battery setup


Hi Robert,
I know you have concerns about the Viking engine’s electrical system. But I purchased a Zenith aircraft with this engine and want to make the plane as safe as I can. The engine is an “aircraftized” Honda Fit with fuel injection. Since the engine will stop is a fuel pump fails Jan Eggenfeller specified duel redundant fuel pumps and the ability to switch pumps. However, there are no previsions for a duel battery circuit or a way to isolate the battery in case of an alternator fault.
I would like to install two batteries that are both charged from the 55-Amp alternator and also be able to select the battery that powers the plane’s electricals and to isolate the batteries by disconnecting a faulty alternator in flight. I previously built a plane with a Rotax 912 using your wiring diagram, (after attending your great seminar). The Rotax diagram had battery isolation capabilities and was wondering of any of your wiring diagrams describe how to do this for my Viking engine or, if not, can you explain how I can do this properly or at least specify the diodes I need to install in the attached diagram.
Thank you for your help,
Les Goldner
[img]cid:1.1668915207(at)web184906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com[/img]


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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 11:28 AM 1/3/2014, you wrote:

Quote:
It should be noted that the primary reason for such circuitry is to
prevent paralleling the two independent batteries thru the charging system.

Why would one want to do that?
Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:15 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Are you sure that is a picture of an Eggenfellner installation? It
doesn't look like any Eggenfellner setups that I've seen, but it does
resemble an older NSI setup that I saw at OSH or Sun-n-Fun some years back.

Actually, I'm not. I saw the airplane on display
at an airport where I was giving a weekend seminar.
I snapped the picture to use in the seminar as an
example of an installation that would benefit from
some judicious review.

At any rate, it is certainly not typical of what is being installed
to support Subaru engines (Eggenfellner or otherwise) these days. The
Aeroelectric Connection is often used as a reference on the Subaru
lists, but if you want to see the last recommended electrical design
that came from Eggenfellner before they went out of business, you can
download the installation guide from:

Thanks for the heads-up! With all due respect
to Jan's work, my apologies for any errors of
attribution.

http://subenews.deej.net/wiki/index.php/EggH6

Click on the "Eggenfellner Engine Installation Guide" (top link under
the under the Howto Guides section), and go to page 45, and page 51
has the electrical schematic.

Please note this is not an endorsement, just an informational posting.

And good information it is my friend. I'll study the drawings
and incorporate the information into a follow-up posting. This
dovetails nicely with the discussions we're having about
Fred's incorporation of the ExpBus in his electrically dependent
airplane.

Fred provided some asked-for info on his installation
which I've not yet had time to consider . . . but it's
on the list.
Bob . . .


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lgold(at)quantum-associat
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:30 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Thanks for the information Robert.
There is nothing in the Viking engine that looks anything as complex as the
picture you included in your last email. In fact, the physical electricals
provided with the Viking engine look very "clean".
You asked to see the Viking wiring diagrams so I attached two diagrams Jan
Eggenfeller provided for the Viking engine. The diagram named "Backup
System" is a very nice looking module provided with the Viking engine for
redundancy to control two fuel pumps (I think it also controls a duel ECUs)
in case one fails. The other diagram is more relevant to my questions to you
about having two batteries. It shows recommended power provisions,
including a second battery. I would appreciate your comments about employing
this two-battery arrangement?
Best regard,
Les
--


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Joined: 19 Nov 2013
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 10:30 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Bob,

You wrote:
"There's a small risk
for an overvoltage condition which is classically
managed with a legacy o.v. sense and response system
that has been part and parcel of aircraft alternator
and generator systems for 60+ years."
Yes, but the Viking has an auto-based system, with an integrated regulator. You make the comment:
"In other words, there are no demonstrated alternator
faults that go beyond simple failure to function . . .
a condition that does not propagate damage or operational
stress to other parts of the system. Hence, no additional
form of 'isolation' is indicated."
Is this true? Is there some recent information that suggests that the "runaway" auto regulator is too unlikely to be an issue. I've been planning for a "crowbar" and an expensive contactor for this potential event. Am I overreacting?
Tom


[quote]
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 3, 2014 5:57 AM
Subject: Re: Viking engine duel battery setup


--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)>

At 12:35 PM 1/2/2014, you wrote:

Hi Robert,

I know you have concerns about the Viking engine's electrical system.

The Viking engine a derivative of
the Eggenfellner venture which has
suffered a checkered history from
the perspectives of both business
model and engineering . . .

http://tinyurl.com/qclebez

http://tinyurl.com/qclebez

Yes, I have come 'concerns' that extend far beyond
the 'electrical system'.

But I purchased a Zenith aircraft with this engine and want to make the plane as safe as I can. The engine is an "aircraftized" Honda Fit with fuel injection. Since the engine will stop is a fuel pump fails Jan Eggenfeller specified duel redundant fuel pumps and the ability to switch pumps. However, there are no previsions for a duel battery circuit or a way to isolate the battery in case of an alternator fault.

Your premise for needing two batteries or needing
to 'isolate them' from a faulted alternator begs
more detailed examination. Alternator 'faults' are
exceedingly rare these days and are generally limited
to mechanical issues (belts and mounts) and wiring
(the thing simply shuts down). There's a small risk
for an overvoltage condition which is classically
managed with a legacy o.v. sense and response system
that has been part and parcel of aircraft alternator
and generator systems for 60+ years.

There is even a smaller probability of a shorted/
open diode array that will either (1) reduce the
alternator's output severely or (2) short the battery
to ground. The both cases will probably manifest with
a low voltage warning with the second case opening
the b-lead fuse.

In other words, there are no demonstrated alternator
faults that go beyond simple failure to function . . .
a condition that does not propagate damage or operational
stress to other parts of the system. Hence, no additional
form of 'isolation' is indicated.

There was some discussions and analysis conducted on
the aviation special interest groups about 18 years
ago concerning the use of diode isolation (ala RV
and boat batteries) for dual batteries on airplanes.

http://tinyurl.com/oss5t4u
I would like to install two batteries that are both charged from the 55-Amp alternator and also be able to select the battery that powers the plane's electricals and to isolate the batteries by disconnecting a faulty alternator in flight. I previously built a plane with a Rotax 912 using your wiring diagram, (after attending your great seminar). The Rotax diagram had battery isolation capabilities and was wondering of any of your wiring diagrams describe how to do this for my Viking engine or, if not, can you explain how I can do this properly or at least specify the diodes I need to install in the attached diagram.

You would be well advised to search out, study,
and understand all of the failure modes that
might cause this engine to cease operation . . .
both electrical AND mechanical.

Then rank them in order of probability. Yes
there will be a pile of "don't know" for
probability but at least you have the item
on the list.

The only time I've seen an Eggenfellner
design installed on an aircraft gave me an
opportunity to take this picture . . .

http://tinyurl.com/p5dgz43

The installation gives rise to concerns
for gross complexity (failure risk proportional
to parts count) as well as operational
reliability. Relays generally don't find
their way into the control of critical circuits
on any engine installation, aviation or
otherwise. The fact that this engine seemed
to be 'blessed' with over a dozen such devices
is cause for further examination and understanding.

The point to being offered here is that past
history for Eggenfellner designs suggests
that there may be numerous failure modes
that go beyond simple concerns for keeping
the fuel pumps powered.

We've had some discussions here recently on
electrical system reliability for the electrically
dependent engine . . . exploring the notion
that a well maintained, single battery/alternator
system has a very low failure rate on a par with
other components that might cause engine failure.

A new Z-figure . . .

http://tinyurl.com/kbn6bys

. . . is in it's 5th refinement iteration
and I'm pretty confident that it's final configuration
will be suited to your installation as well without
suffering the weight and cost of ownership penalties
for carrying two batteries . . . just to address
one of many failure modes.

Are the wiring diagrams provided with your engine
available on the 'net? If not, can you scan your
documents for sharing?

ion" sp; &//www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List" target="_blank">http://w--> http://fo=======================


[b]


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jluckey(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 03, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

for many of the same reasons that (I imagine) you put a "buss tie" contactor in the Z-14 drawings.


From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 3, 2014 10:11 AM
Subject: Re: Viking engine duel battery setup


--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)>

At 11:28 AM 1/3/2014, you wrote:

Quote:
It should be noted that the primary reason for such circuitry is to prevent paralleling the two independent batteries thru the charging system.

Why would one want to do that? AeroElectric wwtarget="_blank" href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.bsp; * My Pilot Store


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 4:33 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 12:29 PM 1/3/2014, you wrote:
Quote:
Bob,

You wrote:
"There's a small risk
for an overvoltage condition which is classically
managed with a legacy o.v. sense and response system
that has been part and parcel of aircraft alternator
and generator systems for 60+ years."

Quote:
Yes, but the Viking has an auto-based system, with an integrated
regulator. You make the comment:

"In other words, there are no demonstrated alternator
faults that go beyond simple failure to function . . .
a condition that does not propagate damage or operational
stress to other parts of the system. Hence, no additional
form of 'isolation' is indicated."

Quote:
Is this true? Is there some recent information that suggests that
the "runaway" auto regulator is too unlikely to be an issue. I've
been planning for a "crowbar" and an expensive contactor for this
potential event. Am I overreacting?

The statements I made were in the context
of the discussion for 'isolation diodes' in the b-lead.
The incorporation of diodes external to the
alternator for the purpose of 'isolation' has
no foundation in the physics.

OV conditions are another matter. There ARE
failure modes within built in regulators which
are not sufficiently detailed to allow
incorporation of STOCK internally regulated
alternators into aircraft under the LEGACY
design goals.

If one embraces those goals then some understanding
of the options for ADDING ov protection to the
system is necessary. See:

http://tinyurl.com/nexuekf

http://tinyurl.com/cx6426c

There have been some interesting discussions
about design goals for system robustness and
the implementation of failure tolerance in
OBAM aircraft over the years. Some positions
were adopted by individuals unable to demonstrate
an understanding of failure tolerant design goals
. . .

http://tinyurl.com/7lhbbah

http://tinyurl.com/nexuekf

http://tinyurl.com/omnuypr

My goals and those of my employers over
the years has been to first reduce
probability of malfunction with
robust designs backed up by further reduction
of risks with failure tolerant designs.

Alternators are but one of many components
with an ability to elevate your concerns
while airborne . . . but easily managed.

Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:15 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 01:49 PM 1/3/2014, you wrote:
Quote:
for many of the same reasons that (I imagine) you put a "buss tie"
contactor in the Z-14 drawings.

But what might those reasons be? In other words, we
add a component to a system to effect some desired
functionality that figures into the overall performance,
failure tolerance and risks.

If diodes were incorporated in the manner suggested
to feed the two batteries, how would we expect these
to operate and for what purpose?

I'm not trying to be obtuse here my friend. I
AM encouraging all of my readers to understand
the application of every component they choose
to add to their system. Suppose I offered a description
for the buss-tie contactor like, "This contactor
offers pilot control of the phramistat to prevent
inadvertent operation of the whatsadozit and
potential damage to the dingusfuzzy."

The inquiring builder would probably want some
detailed expansion on that statement . . . un-
fortunately, others will assume the statement
correct and useful based on the reputation
(deserved or otherwise) of the writer.

I encourage yourself and others to KNOW why
a part is included and UNDERSTAND what useful
things it will do for you. Hence my question
as to any value you perceive for having those
diodes in place as suggested.
Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:10 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Not a problem Bob...I'm busying myself attempting to master
the techniques necessary to assemble a 25 pin D-sub w/ mostly shielded wires...Fred

Okay, I presume you've looked at this piece on
the website.

http://tinyurl.com/87lea6o

The shields do not have to come together inside
the connector back-shell. If there are a lot of them,
you can have a couple inches of un-shielded wires
allowing all the shield terminations to happen
outside the back-shell.



Bob . . . [quote][b]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 8:15 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

[img]cid:.0[/img]


Okay, referring to the abbreviated power distribution diagram
from the Viking installation literature, we see two batteries,
both 'protected' buy current limiters and paralleled onto
the system with independent contactors. One of the two batteries
is fitted with an always hot feeder routed to a 4-pole engine power
selection switch.

Years ago, I proposed a similar two-battery system which
could be automated to some degree with what was at that
time called the Aux Battery Management Module.

http://tinyurl.com/l353p5m

http://tinyurl.com/mrxbrtw

Back in those days, the notion was that at least one of
two electronic ignition systems and perhaps a boost pump
could be supported on an independent battery automatically
isolated from the rest of the airplane when an alternator
failure was detected (low voltage).

Let's revisit those notions in light of the Viking installation
documents that speak to a 'requirement' for a second battery
capable of running the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes.

First, how does one KNOW that battery #2 is capable of
meeting that requirement? It has to be sized -AND- maintained
such that the necessary energy available when needed.

Okay, what conditions would FORCE the use of #2 battery?
(a) no doubt the alternator is off line for what ever
reason and (b) and we KNOW that #1 battery is not capable
of carrying the engine + other endurance loads for at least
30 minutes.

Hmmmm . . . if we KNOW that #1 battery is overtaxed for
the task of supplied combined energy needs but that
#1 plus #2 battery WILL rise to the occasion, then what
is the value in having two batteries? Would a single
battery with a KNOWN capacity for the combined loads not
be a simpler, lighter and lower cost choice?

In other words, what combination of conditions pose such
risk that a second battery is needed to mitigate the risk?
Two batteries DOUBLES your battery maintenance expenses
and adds empty weight . . . all intended to mitigate a
rather rare event . . . alternator failure.

This line of reasoning is germane to the discussions
we were having on Fred's Exp-Bus integration which prompted
the crafting of Figure Z-7. It also applies to Les's question
about diodes suitable for battery isolation. Obviously, the
golden solution will include some assessment of loads over and
above those required to run the engine . . . along with
some decisions as to whether you're expecting to keep the panel all lit
up . . . or have crafted a plan-B that matches your skills
and confidence levels for getting down with a bare minimum
of panel equipment combined perhaps with flight bag back-up
hardware.

If Figure Z-7 were substituted for the figure above, are
there any unforeseen risks? Comments on the Viking drawing,
Figure Z-7 and perceptions of your individual FMEAs are solicited . . .

Bob . . .


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teblejw



Joined: 19 Nov 2013
Posts: 14

PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 10:20 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Bob,
As someone who has a Viking engine and who has been looking to modify Z-7 for my electrical system, I'm very interested in this thread. First, where did you get the diagram at the top of your last posting? It's clearly different then the one sent by Les Goldner, which I also got from the Viking website. It appears to be a system for Vikings unreleased turbo version.
I hesitate to make the following comment, since you chose not to answer my last question about alternators running without batteries; but you asked for comments on Z-7 for this application. Viking claims that the alternator can run with the batteries disconnected and I believe that the diagram provided by Les allows for that. Your comment in an earlier thread that you wouldn't switch off the battery/batteries unless you were also disconnecting the alternator is a strong position. I understand that batteries that are properly maintained don't usually fail in a catastrophic manner, but is that never? Can we quantify? Hard to separate failures due to inadequate maintenance and others. In the absence of numbers but anecdotal experiences of failures (mine for one), why not have an allowance for running off the alternator only? Seems prudent to me, so I'd like to understand why it isn't to you. Thanks.
Tom

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 4, 2014, at 9:13 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
[quote] <a6a5924.jpg>


Okay, referring to the abbreviated power distribution diagram
from the Viking installation literature, we see two batteries,
both 'protected' buy current limiters and paralleled onto
the system with independent contactors. One of the two batteries
is fitted with an always hot feeder routed to a 4-pole engine power
selection switch.

Years ago, I proposed a similar two-battery system which
could be automated to some degree with what was at that
time called the Aux Battery Management Module.

http://tinyurl.com/l353p5m

http://tinyurl.com/mrxbrtw

Back in those days, the notion was that at least one of
two electronic ignition systems and perhaps a boost pump
could be supported on an independent battery automatically
isolated from the rest of the airplane when an alternator
failure was detected (low voltage).

Let's revisit those notions in light of the Viking installation
documents that speak to a 'requirement' for a second battery
capable of running the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes.

First, how does one KNOW that battery #2 is capable of
meeting that requirement? It has to be sized -AND- maintained
such that the necessary energy available when needed.

Okay, what conditions would FORCE the use of #2 battery?
(a) no doubt the alternator is off line for what ever
reason and (b) and we KNOW that #1 battery is not capable
of carrying the engine + other endurance loads for at least
30 minutes.

Hmmmm . . . if we KNOW that #1 battery is overtaxed for
the task of supplied combined energy needs but that
#1 plus #2 battery WILL rise to the occasion, then what
is the value in having two batteries? Would a single
battery with a KNOWN capacity for the combined loads not
be a simpler, lighter and lower cost choice?

In other words, what combination of conditions pose such
risk that a second battery is needed to mitigate the risk?
Two batteries DOUBLES your battery maintenance expenses
and adds empty weight . . . all intended to mitigate a
rather rare event . . . alternator failure.

This line of reasoning is germane to the discussions
we were having on Fred's Exp-Bus integration which prompted
the crafting of Figure Z-7. It also applies to Les's question
about diodes suitable for battery isolation. Obviously, the
golden solution will include some assessment of loads over and
above those required to run the engine . . . along with
some decisions as to whether you're expecting to keep the panel all lit
up . . . or have crafted a plan-B that matches your skills
and confidence levels for getting down with a bare minimum
of panel equipment combined perhaps with flight bag back-up
hardware.

If Figure Z-7 were substituted for the figure above, are
there any unforeseen risks? Comments on the Viking drawing,
Figure Z-7 and perceptions of your individual FMEAs are solicited . . .

Bob . . .
[b]


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

At 12:19 PM 1/4/2014, you wrote:
Bob,

As someone who has a Viking engine and who has been looking to modify
Z-7 for my electrical system, I'm very interested in this
thread. First, where did you get the diagram at the top of your last
posting? It's clearly different then the one sent by Les Goldner,
which I also got from the Viking website. It appears to be a system
for Vikings unreleased turbo version.

I got it from the Viking website using a link forwarded to
me by one of the list readers. The exact version is insignificant
at the moment as the points to ponder deal with the rationale for
two batteries as opposed to one.

I hesitate to make the following comment, since you chose not to
answer my last question about alternators running without batteries;
but you asked for comments on Z-7 for this application.

My apologies . . . didn't mean to ignore your question.
Never hesitate to jump right in the middle of my
lap if you believe some important link of communication
has broken. This list isn't about feelings, it's
about ideas . . . and even though GMCJetpilot found the
assertion incredible, I cannot be insulted and I welcome
logical persuasion.

Viking claims that the alternator can run with the batteries
disconnected and I believe that the diagram provided by Les allows for that.

Okay, that doesn't surprise me. I'm wondering to what extent
that operating mode has been tested.

Your comment in an earlier thread that you wouldn't switch off the
battery/batteries unless you were also disconnecting the alternator
is a strong position.

. . . yes . . . based on the legacy design goals
of yesteryear when the split-rocker master switch
was king.

But that was several generations ago in both alternator
and battery design. Odds are that most airplanes will continue
operating sans battery . . . but I suspect there are
limits that should be explored. I had some plans to
acquire a variable speed drive stand some years ago.
The goal was to explore the new alternator-only
paradigm.
I understand that batteries that are properly maintained don't
usually fail in a catastrophic manner, but is that never? Can we quantify?

I'll have to ask Skip about that. Concorde has done
countless failure analysis over the course of battery
evolution in aircraft and can probably offer us some
quantitative assessment.

Hard to separate failures due to inadequate maintenance and
others. In the absence of numbers but anecdotal experiences of
failures (mine for one), why not have an allowance for running off
the alternator only? Seems prudent to me, so I'd like to understand
why it isn't to you. Thanks.

I absolutely agree. But just as I was loath to
RECOMMEND the internally regulated alternator some
years back, my reluctance is not based on hard
negative data but a lack of hard positive data.

If Viking says they can run alternator only, I
rather suspect that they have at least determined
that the engine doesn't quit and the panel stays
lit with the batteries OFF. I wonder to what extent
any testing has been accomplished and documented upon
which a gray beard stuck in such traditions
can offer confident recommendation.

Thanks for asking . . .
Bob . . .


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kearney



Joined: 20 Sep 2008
Posts: 563

PostPosted: Sat Jan 04, 2014 5:49 pm    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Hi All
This is the Eggenfellner Aircraft Engines wiring diagram for a Subaru engine (turbo'd). This where the E6T engine reference comes from.
Cheers
Les

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 4, 2014, at 9:13 AM, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
[quote] <a6a5924.jpg>


Okay, referring to the abbreviated power distribution diagram
from the Viking installation literature, we see two batteries,
both 'protected' buy current limiters and paralleled onto
the system with independent contactors. One of the two batteries
is fitted with an always hot feeder routed to a 4-pole engine power
selection switch.

Years ago, I proposed a similar two-battery system which
could be automated to some degree with what was at that
time called the Aux Battery Management Module.

http://tinyurl.com/l353p5m

http://tinyurl.com/mrxbrtw

Back in those days, the notion was that at least one of
two electronic ignition systems and perhaps a boost pump
could be supported on an independent battery automatically
isolated from the rest of the airplane when an alternator
failure was detected (low voltage).

Let's revisit those notions in light of the Viking installation
documents that speak to a 'requirement' for a second battery
capable of running the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes.

First, how does one KNOW that battery #2 is capable of
meeting that requirement? It has to be sized -AND- maintained
such that the necessary energy available when needed.

Okay, what conditions would FORCE the use of #2 battery?
(a) no doubt the alternator is off line for what ever
reason and (b) and we KNOW that #1 battery is not capable
of carrying the engine + other endurance loads for at least
30 minutes.

Hmmmm . . . if we KNOW that #1 battery is overtaxed for
the task of supplied combined energy needs but that
#1 plus #2 battery WILL rise to the occasion, then what
is the value in having two batteries? Would a single
battery with a KNOWN capacity for the combined loads not
be a simpler, lighter and lower cost choice?

In other words, what combination of conditions pose such
risk that a second battery is needed to mitigate the risk?
Two batteries DOUBLES your battery maintenance expenses
and adds empty weight . . . all intended to mitigate a
rather rare event . . . alternator failure.

This line of reasoning is germane to the discussions
we were having on Fred's Exp-Bus integration which prompted
the crafting of Figure Z-7. It also applies to Les's question
about diodes suitable for battery isolation. Obviously, the
golden solution will include some assessment of loads over and
above those required to run the engine . . . along with
some decisions as to whether you're expecting to keep the panel all lit
up . . . or have crafted a plan-B that matches your skills
and confidence levels for getting down with a bare minimum
of panel equipment combined perhaps with flight bag back-up
hardware.

If Figure Z-7 were substituted for the figure above, are
there any unforeseen risks? Comments on the Viking drawing,
Figure Z-7 and perceptions of your individual FMEAs are solicited . . .

Bob . . .
[b]


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jluckey(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

It occurs to me that this topic gets pretty design-specific in a hurry and without specifying a design, this will turn into an exercise in arm waving.

Therefore, I have included some general comments sprinkled among Bob's remarks, below.

-Jeff From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 4, 2014 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Viking engine duel battery setup


--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)>

At 01:49 PM 1/3/2014, you wrote:
Quote:
for many of the same reasons that (I imagine) you put a "buss tie" contactor in the Z-14 drawings.

But what might those reasons be? In other words, we
add a component to a system to effect some desired
functionality that figures into the overall performance,
failure tolerance and risks.

If diodes were incorporated in the manner suggested
to feed the two batteries, how would we expect these
to operate and for what purpose?

The diodes are to isolate the batteries and their systems from each other. If you simple run a wire from the alternator B terminal to batt A and then to batt B you have paralleled the batteries when your intent was only to charge them. It could be an unintended side-effect. If your mission is to charge the batts then make sure your circuit does that. If your mission is to parallel the batts then do that, but don't let one just happen as a side effect of the other.

I'm not trying to be obtuse here my friend. I
AM encouraging all of my readers to understand
the application of every component they choose
to add to their system. Suppose I offered a description
for the buss-tie contactor like, "This contactor
offers pilot control of the phramistat to prevent
inadvertent operation of the whatsadozit and
potential damage to the dingusfuzzy."

The inquiring builder would probably want some
detailed expansion on that statement . . . un-
fortunately, others will assume the statement
correct and useful based on the reputation
(deserved or otherwise) of the writer.

It is difficult to control the assumptions made by readers.

I encourage yourself and others to KNOW why
a part is included and UNDERSTAND what useful
things it will do for you. Hence my question
as to any value you perceive for having those
diodes in place as suggested.

I know why - been there done that - and repaired the damage from some of those uninnd Get Some AWESOME FREE rget="_blank" href="http://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.comwww.mypilots; &nb========================


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 05, 2014 12:51 pm    Post subject: Viking engine duel battery setup Reply with quote

Quote:


If diodes were incorporated in the manner suggested
to feed the two batteries, how would we expect these
to operate and for what purpose?

The diodes are to isolate the batteries and their systems from each other. If you simple run a wire from the alternator B terminal to batt A and then to batt B you have paralleled the batteries when your intent was only to charge them. It could be an unintended side-effect. If your mission is to charge the batts then make sure your circuit does that. If your mission is to parallel the batts then do that, but don't let one just happen as a side effect of the other.

Agreed. I can deduce no practical purpose for
these diodes. As long as the alternator is
operating normally, it charges both batteries.

If alternator fails, you get a low-voltage
warning light and you then separate the
batteries onto their respective tasks.

In other words, the system can service as many
batteries in parallel as dictated by the
alternator-out operating conditions. Simply
parallel through hard contacts for normal ops;
separate for alternator-out ops.

A 'dead' battery will not accept 'charge' from
a fully charged battery. If the batteries are
remarkably different in size, the smaller one
might want to be OFF during cranking.



Bob . . . [quote][b]


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