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pmdental(at)btinternet.co
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 Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject: Door fitting ?? |
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Hi Guys, Paul Munford here kit 625 XS tri gear. Any advice & tips on trimming to fit the doors? As expected there is excess all round but which bits to trim first ? Are there any bits which shouldnt be trimmed ?? Any dimensions which are critical ?? I would be very grateful for any help in this direction. Thanx in advance. Paul
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 797
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| Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 3:35 pm Post subject: Re: Door fitting ?? |
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Hi Paul
I documented door install here:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=86926
under doors and windscreen folder.
I followed Neville's philosophy and left the strut attachment, reinforcing things with a little Carbon Fiber and installed passive pin and strikers. The upper aft striker really does pull the top aft side of the door down when you close it!
The top hinge rebates on the fuse needed to be ripped out and destroyed on my XS Mono and new ones made to fit the door.
Check out the blue masking tape trick to trim bottom part of the door.
I found doors to be a fun part of the build. If you are expecting things to fit together like a Revell model, at first you may find you have yourself a challenge, but stick with it and I'm sure you too will be rewarded.
Ron Parigoris
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jglazener
Joined: 14 Apr 2010
Posts: 76
Location: Schoonhoven, Netherlands
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:55 am Post subject: Re: Door fitting ?? |
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Hello Paul,
Herewith some more reading material which will keep you from actually working on the plane:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=100175
It's pretty much a plain vanilla install, which together with Ron's more mod driven approach (Hi Ron  ) should give you a complete picture. If you have not yet installed the latch mechanism, have a look also at the previous chapter on that subject. I had some issues with the length of the pushrod which you may want to check out.
I agree with Ron that it is one of the most rewarding parts- frustrating, but the plane suddenly becomes a lot more real.
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Jeroen
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165 |
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craigb(at)onthenet.com.au
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:31 am Post subject: Door fitting ?? |
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I started with the sides and blocked them down till the door was just fitting the hole, then did the top and bottom, the hinges were then fitted, as ron said the hinge rebates were junk, the door was too low at the front and too high at the back on the pilots side reversed for the pax side, which basically required them to be rebuilt, once I had the doors level on the top and was happy with the fit and clearance, remember slow and steady, its not hard but needs a little time. I then did the lock hardware, my tip for that would be get the front and back bolts as high as you can in the frame so the receivers for the bolts are in the flat of the frame not the curve, just watch the front or you will hit the bottom of the window
Of course when you add the seals and the strut it will likely need to be fixed again
Good luck
craig
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kingsnjan(at)westnet.com.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:02 am Post subject: Door fitting ?? |
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Hello Paul,
You said "As expected there is excess all round but which bits to trim first ?"
You are not alone with this dilemma. I had exactly the same problem and typical of my performance, I realised what I should have done AFTER doing both doors.
If I had to do them again I would cut pieces of blue foam of the required dimensions and strategically glue them into the rebates around the door frame with hot glue such that when you trial fit the door, the door is positively located centrally forward and aft and up and down. Trimming of the door frame should then be able to be carried out with confidence as every time the door is trial fitted, it will be in the same place.
Not only should it be easier, but another benefit of doing it like this would be that the gaps for the shoot bolts should be even both front and back and not closer at the back than the front like mine unfortunately.
Thinking about it a little more now, for the vertical positioning of the door, it may be better to only put the spacers on the bottom door sill so that as the door begins to enter the cavity, it will not be restricted by spacers at the top. Thinking on the run now so it is all just food for thought!
Note that as aforesaid, I have not tried this approach but I'm fairly sure it would work. Others that had more foresight than I might like to either confirm or deny my thoughts.
Best regards
Kingsley in Oz.
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