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Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

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flyboy(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:22 pm Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.



I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?



Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?



What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

is tough.



Thanks,

Berck

bcondrey

Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 580

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 4:09 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum. Â The limits priming to parts you make from the extruded angle and stock. Â Skins, ribs and the stamped out parts are all alclad. Â Don't worry about the edges. Â 

 

Bob



On Saturday, March 1, 2014, Berck E. Nash <flyboy(at)gmail.com (flyboy(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "Berck E. Nash" <[url=javascript:;]flyboy(at)gmail.com[/url]>

 

 Hi there. Â I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

 searching has not yielded answers to. Â I know everyone loves priming

 questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.

 

 I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

 I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are. Â I've read in

 some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed. Â Is that all mating

 surfaces? Â Everywhere a skin touches a rib? Â Or is this just mating

 surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?

 

 Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad? Â For instance, the

 VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal. Â Is it

 alclad? Â Does it need to be primed? Â Or should it be primed anyway

 because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?

 

 What about the edges of everything? Â Clearly there's no alclad there...

 should I be worried about that? Â I really don't want to prime where it's

 not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

 where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

 is tough.

 

 Thanks,

 Berck

 

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 " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

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 k">http://forums.matronics.com

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 e -

  Â  Â  Â  Â  Â -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

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 [b]

carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:41 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

If you going to go to the trouble of priming all those hard to prime non-alclad parts then prime everything.Â  The additional work is minimal considering the total build.Â  The other consideration is even if you donâ€™t view the need to prime at some point you may want to sell and this may make a difference to the new buyer.

 

I never thought I would sell my RV-8A â€“ but it is now flying with a happy new owner.

 

Carl 

 

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Condrey

Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2014 7:09 AM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.



 

Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum.  The limits priming to parts you make from the extruded angle and stock.  Skins, ribs and the stamped out parts are all alclad.  Don't worry about the edges.  

 



Bob



On Saturday, March 1, 2014, Berck E. Nash <flyboy(at)gmail.com (flyboy(at)gmail.com)> wrote:

--> RV10-List message posted by: "Berck E. Nash" <[url=javascript:;]flyboy(at)gmail.com[/url]>



Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.



I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?



Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?



What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

is tough.



Thanks,

Berck



===========

" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

===========

MS -

k">http://forums.matronics.com

===========

e -

         -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

===========



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Kellym

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 6:26 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Oh boy, here go the primer wars!

The contrarian view is that primer just adds weight to the overall 

aircraft. There are many Cessnas flying from the early 50s that had no 

primer used at all.

Priming any steel that isn't already powder coated will prevent 

dissimilar metal corrosion. Takes very little effort to prime extruded 

aluminum parts with rattle can self etching primer. Only reason to prime 

any alclad is if your scotchbrite efforts remove the alclad layer.

Mow, if you base the plane in Florida, Kalifornia and other corrosive 

atmospheres, priming might be desirable. Resale would be the last reason 

in my mind to do priming, since most builders are doing it to have the 

plane for themselves. If you are worried about how the plane will sell 

when you either quit flying or start a new project, maybe this isn't the 

right project to build in the first place.



On 3/1/2014 6:41 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 If you going to go to the trouble of priming all those hard to prime 

 non-alclad parts then prime everything.  The additional work is 

 minimal considering the total build.  The other consideration is even 

 if you donâ€™t view the need to prime at some point you may want to sell 

 and this may make a difference to the new buyer.



 I never thought I would sell my RV-8A â€“ but it is now flying with a 

 happy new owner.



 Carl



 *From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com 

 [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Bob Condrey

 *Sent:* Saturday, March 01, 2014 7:09 AM

 *To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 *Subject:* Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.



 Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum.  The limits priming 

 to parts you make from the extruded angle and stock.  Skins, ribs and 

 the stamped out parts are all alclad.  Don't worry about the edges.



 Bob



 On Saturday, March 1, 2014, Berck E. Nash <flyboy(at)gmail.com 

 <mailto:flyboy(at)gmail.com>> wrote:



 

 <javascript:;>>



 Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

 searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

 questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.



 I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

 I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

 some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

 surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

 surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?



 Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

 VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

 alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

 because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?



 What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

 should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

 not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

 where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

 is tough.



 Thanks,

 Berck



 ===========

 " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

 MS -

 k">http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 e -

          -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

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 *  *

 **

 **

 **

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 **

 *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*

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 **

 *http://forums.matronics.com*

 **

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 *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*

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_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor # 5286
KCHD

arplnplt(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:17 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I used  T9-BOESHIELD on most parts and skins rather than prime. Good protection.  Penetrates very well. Can easily be applied after assembly of parts. Just spray on and lightly wipe excess off.  Little affect on weight.  Easy.ACF-50 works the same.

http://boeshield.com

Dave Leikam





On Mar 1, 2014, at 8:25 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com (kellym(at)aviating.com)> wrote:

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com (kellym(at)aviating.com)>



Oh boy, here go the primer wars!

The contrarian view is that primer just adds weight to the overall aircraft. There are many Cessnas flying from the early 50s that had no primer used at all.

Priming any steel that isn't already powder coated will prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. Takes very little effort to prime extruded aluminum parts with rattle can self etching primer. Only reason to prime any alclad is if your scotchbrite efforts remove the alclad layer.

Mow, if you base the plane in Florida, Kalifornia and other corrosive atmospheres, priming might be desirable. Resale would be the last reason in my mind to do priming, since most builders are doing it to have the plane for themselves. If you are worried about how the plane will sell when you either quit flying or start a new project, maybe this isn't the right project to build in the first place.



On 3/1/2014 6:41 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:

[quote]

If you going to go to the trouble of priming all those hard to prime non-alclad parts then prime everything.  The additional work is minimal considering the total build.  The other consideration is even if you don’t view the need to prime at some point you may want to sell and this may make a difference to the new buyer.



I never thought I would sell my RV-8A – but it is now flying with a happy new owner.



Carl



*From:*owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] *On Behalf Of *Bob Condrey

*Sent:* Saturday, March 01, 2014 7:09 AM

*To:* rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)

*Subject:* Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.



Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum.  The limits priming to parts you make from the extruded angle and stock.  Skins, ribs and the stamped out parts are all alclad.  Don't worry about the edges.



Bob



On Saturday, March 1, 2014, Berck E. Nash <flyboy(at)gmail.com (flyboy(at)gmail.com) <mailto:flyboy(at)gmail.com (flyboy(at)gmail.com)>> wrote:



--> RV10-List message posted by: "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy(at)gmail.com (flyboy(at)gmail.com) <javascript:;>>



Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.



I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?



Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?



What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

is tough.



Thanks,

Berck



===========

" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

===========

MS -

k">http://forums.matronics.com

===========

e -

        -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

===========

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*  *

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[b]

Rocketman1988

Joined: 21 Jun 2012
Posts: 63

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:25 am Post subject: Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I decided to prime everything.  Looking back, now, if I did it again, I probably would use the Alodine process or not prime at all.  People speak of the minimal time involved...well, it may be a minimal PERCENTAGE of the total build time but that is still a BUNCH of hours.  And you have to factor in the time it takes for the primer to dry, too...



Also, if you are planning to use SW P60 G2, which is what Van's uses, call SW and talk to them about it.  That primer, as they will tell you, is designed to topcoat within 4 HOURS, and although it may enhance corrosion resistance, it was not designed to be used as a stand alone protectant.  Call them and talk to one of their techs...



There is no question that a properly primed metal will last longer than an unprimed one, so the question becomes, "Do you want an airplane that will last 60 years or 100 years?"

Rocketman1988

Joined: 21 Jun 2012
Posts: 63

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 7:37 am Post subject: Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I decided to prime everything.  Looking back, now, if I did it again, I probably would use the Alodine process or not prime at all.  People speak of the minimal time involved...well, it may be a minimal PERCENTAGE of the total build time but that is still a BUNCH of hours.  And you have to factor in the time it takes for the primer to dry, too...



Also, if you are planning to use SW P60 G2, which is what Van's uses, call SW and talk to them about it.  That primer, as they will tell you, is designed to topcoat within 4 HOURS, and although it may enhance corrosion resistance, it was not designed to be used as a stand alone protectant.  Call them and talk to one of their techs...



There is no question that a properly primed metal will last longer than an unprimed one, so the question becomes, "Do you want an airplane that will last 60 years or 100 years?"

flyboy(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:24 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Sorry to rekindle the debate, but I really do appreciate the input. So

those of you that are not priming are not even priming mating surfaces?

 If this is acceptable, this is what I'd like to do.  I don't care about

resale value, as I'm not planning on selling.  Even if things don't go

as I plan and I need to sell for some reason, I'm willing to take the

"loss".  For all I know there are buyers that would prefer to have

non-primed aircraft without the extra 3-8 pounds.



Determining which scratches in the alclad are deep enough to worry about

is the next question.  I know I need to smooth any inadvertent scratches

I make with scotchbrite.  Is it obvious if you go through the alcad?

Should I prime anything I scotchbrite?

On 03/01/2014 05:09 AM, Bob Condrey wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum.  The limits priming to

 parts you make from the extruded angle and stock.  Skins, ribs and the

 stamped out parts are all alclad.  Don't worry about the edges.  

 

 Bob

 

 On Saturday, March 1, 2014, Berck E. Nash <flyboy(at)gmail.com

 <mailto:flyboy(at)gmail.com>> wrote:

 

     

     <javascript:;>>

 

     Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

     searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

     questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.

 

     I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

     I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

     some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

     surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

     surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?

 

     Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

     VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

     alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

     because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?

 

     What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

     should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

     not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

     where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

     is tough.

 

     Thanks,

     Berck

 

     ===========

     " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

     ===========

     MS -

     k">http://forums.matronics.com

     ===========

     e -

              -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

     t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

     ===========

 

 

 

 *

 

 

 *

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 8:31 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

There is something I'm not sure of....are the dull aluminum wing ribs 

alclad too, or

is it just the shiny ones?  I wasn't sure, actually, so I always primed 

everything

that wasn't shiny.



On the -14 I've been priming with Akzo again, but not alodining (other 

than a few

small parts made from stock and such).   I did love the alodining on the 

-10 and if

I were keeping a plane forever I'd do it I guess, but the -14 isn't 

going to be my

forever plane.  I scuff and spray with Akzo.  The only real hassle is 

the 30 minute

post-mixing time before you can spray.



I just this week decided to get around that for some small prime jobs by 

buying

some actual Zinc Chromate primer.  In tests I've seen in past years, 

Zinc Chromate

was actually one of the better corrosion preventers.  So I got a couple 

cans for

real small parts that hold up my progress if I have to wait for 

priming.  There

are times that wanting to prime means getting a lot of parts ready at 

once or

you hit a delay, and sometimes I just don't want that hassle anymore.  

So for

me it'll be Zinc Chromate in those areas.



I agree on the wash primer thing....it's not a sealer, so I'd rather 

either not

use anything or pick a better product.  And the only places I would not

use anything are maybe if you have the inside of skins that are alclad...and

you still prime the mating surfaces.   To me, a totally unprimed plane would

not be one I'd be interested in buying, if I was shopping around. If at 

least

the mating surfaces were primed, I'd consider it.  But you can't inspect

those mating areas real easily and that's exactly where moisture and

everything else will collect and stay.  So I wouldn't skip that part.



So Berck, your thoughts are basically the same as mine as to what "looks"

like alclad.  But for me, I'd at least get a couple cans of primer and spray

the mating surfaces.



BTW: Yeah, people talk about Zinc Chromate as an awful thing from

a toxicity standpoint.  I wouldn't want to do the whole airframe with it,

but for small areas, I'm not going to worry.  Use a respirator for sure.

I have tried the rattle can self-etching primers of a couple brands and 

found

that they were horrible from a durability standpoint.  To me, they're

worthless.  Akzo is tough, and after 8 years on the RV-10 it's looking

great still.  If you do go rattle-can self-etching, I'd topcoat it with 

something

tougher for sure....it also is not a sealer.



One more tip...the Zinc Chromate I got on skygeek.com and paid only

$4 per can for.



Tim

On 3/1/2014 6:09 AM, Bob Condrey wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   Minimal is to prime only the non-alclad aluminum.  The limits priming 

 to parts you make from the extruded angle and stock.  Skins, ribs and 

 the stamped out parts are all alclad.  Don't worry about the edges.



 Bob



 On Saturday

jack(at)bedfordlandings.c
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 9:18 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

The question for me was weight.  As has been mentioned, Cessna did not prime

anything back in the 40's and 50's.  In 2002, I looked carefully throughout

my 1947 Cessna 140, and found no priming and no corrosion, even after 55

years.



When I built my Pietenpol Air Camper, I primed the aluminum cowling with

PolyFiber's epoxy primer, which I believe is one of the very best for

providing nearly bulletproof protection, as well as a good surface to paint.

I was amazed at how much weight the primer added.  With epoxy primer, very

little solvent evaporates, instead the epoxy cures like any other epoxy.

Hence, the weight of the can of primer is pretty close to the weight of the

cured primer on your airplane, and it is substantial.  If all surfaces of a

plane the size of an RV10 were primed with epoxy primer, you could easily

add 60 to 80 lbs to the airframe



My RV4 (I was not the builder) was not primed and has been flying for 27

years now, with no corrosion.  It is also one of the lightest RV4's around,

weighing just 924 lbs empty (Van's prototype weighed 908, without the

electric flaps and electric trim that mine has).  Even with only 150 hp it

easily outruns heavier RV4's with 180 hp engines.  So weight matters.



Now all I need to do is get back to work on my RV10.



Jack Phillips

Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia

RV10 #40610

Tail done, Wings done, need to order the fuselage kit



--

Bob Turner

Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 10:34 am Post subject: Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Lots of opinions!

I did prime; if I were doing it again, I would not. It did take a lot of time, mostly in the prep work, not the actual painting. I didn't have a permanent paint booth so every batch required a lot of set up/take down time.



I would spray ACF50 or similar every few years. That stuff gets everywhere (paint prior to spraying ACF50). I live in CA but away from the coast where the weather is dry most of the year.

_________________
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 2:05 pm Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I think the definition of 'minimal priming' is only priming those parts 

where Vans explicitly suggests priming.  That's very few parts and areas.



I started with epoxy priming every part, moved on to a wash primer, 

ended up in 'minimal priming' mode despite the fact that I had a spray 

booth by then and did my own exterior paint.



Bill "with no priming recommendation" Watson



On 3/1/2014 1:21 AM, Berck E. Nash wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Hi there.  I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that

 searching has not yielded answers to.  I know everyone loves priming

 questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.



 I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but

 I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are.  I've read in

 some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed.  Is that all mating

 surfaces?  Everywhere a skin touches a rib?  Or is this just mating

 surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?



 Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad?  For instance, the

 VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal.  Is it

 alclad?  Does it need to be primed?  Or should it be primed anyway

 because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?



 What about the edges of everything?  Clearly there's no alclad there...

 should I be worried about that?  I really don't want to prime where it's

 not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado

 where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required

 is tough.

johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 6:38 am Post subject: Re: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I didn't prime, except for where it was called for - or needed. I kept a rattle can of "self etching primer" handy, and used a cardboard box outdoors to hit it (wear a mask). Ask for it at any paint or auto store.

I also kept a spray can of T9 Boeshield handy - as Kelly suggested. Great product.



John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:58 am Post subject: minimalist priming questions.

Having owned a plane with filiform corrosion (a Piper), I was sensitive to the issue. I trained with Wally Anderson at Synergy in Eugene,OR. and he primes everything with a wash primer. I felt that if it was the way that Wally went, that I would do the same. I feel that it added only nominal weight and it looks great. I also used an epoxy primer from DuPont that is tough as nails on the floors and sidewalls. My attitude is - corrosion will never be a worry for me or the person to whom I sell the plane. My weight is 2620#.

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:24 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

I hope you meant 1620#.  



Rene' Felker

N423CF

801-721-6080



--

amekler

Joined: 07 Oct 2010
Posts: 164

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:45 am Post subject: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions.

Sent from my iPhone



[quote] On Mar 5, 2014, at 11:24 AM, "Rene Felker" <rene(at)felker.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 I hope you meant 1620#.  

 

 Rene' Felker

 N423CF

 801-721-6080

 

 --

AirMike

Joined: 27 Feb 2007
Posts: 514
Location: Nevada

Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject: minimalist priming questions.

yea - yea - 1620#

_________________
See you OSH '18
Q/B - sold.

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