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Exhaust Flange Torque

 
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busdriver



Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:17 am    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

I currently have the stock exhaust disassembled on my AG5B for an exhaust leak at a couple of the flanges. I have everything cleaned up, trued up, new clamps, gaskets, and attaching hardware. Was wondering what the torque values are for reassembly? I have found "40 in/lb minimum" for the studs (seems a bit vague) and everything from 90-204 in/lb for the flange nuts (using new internal locking star washers). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:43 am    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

I currently have the stock exhaust disassembled on my AG5B for an exhaust leak at a couple of the flanges. Was wondering what the torque values are for reassembly? I have found "40 in/lb minimum" for the studs (seems a bit vague) and everything from 90-204 in/lb for the flange nuts (using new internal locking star washers). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
===========

160-180 in.lb. is the range I am comfortable with. And I use a wipe of anti-seize on the stud threads, on the off chance *I* might be the next one to work on the plane...
Over-torquing is very common, and leads to bent flanges. So often non-mechanics take the "quarter turn before it breaks off" approach, thinking that tighter is better.
--Bob Steward
Birmingham, AL


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BARRY CHECK 6



Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738

PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2014 10:21 pm    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

Bus:

You are dealing with STEEL studs and hardened STEEL nuts.
So, the easy way is to pull out the maintance manual and usually in the last section ther will be a torque chart.
Look up the DIAMETER and THREAD COUNT for the size of the stud.  It will have the torque value & +/- tolerance.  Remember this value is for a dry thread...  No oil, no anti seize.
TRICK:  It is a pain to get the blow proof gaskets, exhaust, washers and nuts all pulled up and in place.  So use a smear of High Temp RTV to hold the blow proof gasket in place.  Once in place then you can position the exhaust and only use a couple of nuts LOOSELY just to hold it.  Then you can put the NEW star washers in place, snug the nuts.  Then, torque as required.
NOW - The RTV is there only to hold things in place.  Some will say the RTV will not hold up to the exhaust temps.  So what...  It holds things in place and... I have never had a leak once installed this way.  Permatex makes a copper RTV that is up around 1200 F.  It works.


Best of luck,
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"

On Sunday, March 9, 2014, busdriver <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "busdriver" <[url=javascript:;]clmiller(at)netzero.net[/url]>

I currently have the stock exhaust disassembled on my AG5B for an exhaust leak at a couple of the flanges.  I have everything cleaned up, trued up, new clamps, gaskets, and attaching hardware.  Was wondering what the torque values are for reassembly?  I have found "40 in/lb minimum" for the studs (seems a bit vague) and everything from 90-204 in/lb for the flange nuts (using new internal locking star washers).  Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you!




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PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:18 am    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

I sent that before I was done editing. Like Bob Steward said, anything around 180 inch pounds is good.
I still prefer the grade 8 nuts. At least if one does get rusted onto the stud, I can pull the stud with the stuck nut instead of stripping off the corners of the nuts. 


On Sunday, March 9, 2014 11:20 PM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> wrote:

Bus:

You are dealing with STEEL studs and hardened STEEL nuts.
So, the easy way is to pull out the maintance manual and usually in the last section ther will be a torque chart.
Look up the DIAMETER and THREAD COUNT for the size of the stud. It will have the torque value & +/- tolerance. Remember this value is for a dry thread... No oil, no anti seize.
TRICK: It is a pain to get the blow proof gaskets, exhaust, washers and nuts all pulled up and in place. So use a smear of High Temp RTV to hold the blow proof gasket in place. Once in place then you can position the exhaust and only use a couple of nuts LOOSELY just to hold it. Then you can put the NEW star washers in place, snug the nuts. Then, torque as required.
NOW - The RTV is there only to hold things in place. Some will say the RTV will not hold up to the exhaust temps. So what... It holds things in place and... I have never had a leak once installed this way. Permatex makes a copper RTV that is up around 1200 F. It works.


Best of luck,
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"

On Sunday, March 9, 2014, busdriver <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "busdriver" <[url=]clmiller(at)netzero.net[/url]>

I currently have the stock exhaust disassembled on my AG5B for an exhaust leak at a couple of the flanges. I have everything cleaned up, trued up, new clamps, gaskets, and attaching hardware. Was wondering what the torque values are for reassembly? I have found "40 in/lb minimum" for the studs (seems a bit vague) and everything from 90-204 in/lb for the flange nuts (using new internal locking star washers). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!




Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420045#420045







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busdriver



Joined: 16 Jul 2010
Posts: 13
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 4:42 am    Post subject: Re: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

Thank you very much for the information. I'll use the RTV (and my 9 year old!) to keep everything in place while installing.

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BARRY CHECK 6



Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Posts: 738

PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 4:51 am    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

VERY COOL!  You got a 9 year old.  I was not able to find one of those - I did find an 11 year old but could not fit it into my toolbox.  You MUST start training the 9 year old in the Grumman Grunt Position - Comes in very handy for work under the dash and in the Hell Hole.


Barry 




On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 8:42 AM, busdriver <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "busdriver" <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)>

Thank you very much for the information.  I'll use the RTV (and my 9 year old!) to keep everything in place while installing.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Exhaust Flange Torque Reply with quote

PS. I really hate the RTV obj the flange. I find I can wedge the gasket on at an angle long enough to put it all together.


On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 5:56 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com> wrote:

VERY COOL! You got a 9 year old. I was not able to find one of those - I did find an 11 year old but could not fit it into my toolbox. You MUST start training the 9 year old in the Grumman Grunt Position - Comes in very handy for work under the dash and in the Hell Hole.


Barry




On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 8:42 AM, busdriver <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> TeamGrumman-List message posted by: "busdriver" <clmiller(at)netzero.net (clmiller(at)netzero.net)>

Thank you very much for the information. I'll use the RTV (and my 9 year old!) to keep everything in place while installing.

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