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jliltd
Joined: 26 Jun 2013
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dougsappllc(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:07 am Post subject: Start Solenoid Trouble |
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Jim,I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give me a call 509-826-4610
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim(at)jimivey.com (jim(at)jimivey.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
Jim
| Quote: |
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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--
Best,Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
[quote][b]
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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jliltd
Joined: 26 Jun 2013
Posts: 20
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 12:38 pm Post subject: Start Solenoid Trouble |
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Here are some shots of the compressed air dryer assembly on my CJ:
The felt washers were kind of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of dessicant as seen the blow-apart. Photo. There is no question I will buy the new felt and desiccant kit at a minimum. The end caps are in fine shape. I am not even sure if the dryer assembly was put together right. On the input side there was a spring and a perforated plate followed by two white felt washers and then a couple of green Scotchbright looking washers, the desiccant, a another couple of green washers and then a whole lot of white felt washers. Those were stacked up on the exit end with a perforated plate and a small aluminum spacer bushing looking thingy. The photo below shows the approximate stack-up:
My only question is as on the housing itself. The inside is fairly smooth with the original finish in the Aluminum. However, there is one place that looks like longitudinal scrapes. Might be where somebody in the past pushed a sharp object through. May also be exfoliation corrosion. It's not bad but I can feel it with my finger:
I am tempted to keep the housing and only go with new internal components but always appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Jim
On 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
[quote] Jim, I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give me a call 509-826-4610
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim(at)jimivey.com (jim(at)jimivey.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
Jim
|
--
Best, Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
[b]
| | - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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jblake207(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 12:55 pm Post subject: Start Solenoid Trouble |
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Jim, I think most of would agree, this is a weak link in the air system and should be replaced... either with a serviceable replacement aluminum housing or even better, a stainless steel housing and steel end caps. Think about it like this… This little filter housing is sitting next to your oil tank… about 18 inches from your left leg… retains about 760 pounds of air pressure… do you really want to reinstall a housing that is pitted? I went with the stainless steel and now about every six months change out the felt filters and desiccant. Sapp has these kits for about $18; he also has the stainless housing, but I don’t remember the cost. It was well worth it for just the peace of mind. JB
From: "Jim" <jim(at)jimivey.com>
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:37:33 PM
Subject: Re: Start Solenoid Trouble
Here are some shots of the compressed air dryer assembly on my CJ:
The felt washers were kind of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of dessicant as seen the blow-apart. Photo. There is no question I will buy the new felt and desiccant kit at a minimum. The end caps are in fine shape. I am not even sure if the dryer assembly was put together right. On the input side there was a spring and a perforated plate followed by two white felt washers and then a couple of green Scotchbright looking washers, the desiccant, a another couple of green washers and then a whole lot of white felt washers. Those were stacked up on the exit end with a perforated plate and a small aluminum spacer bushing looking thingy. The photo below shows the approximate stack-up:
My only question is as on the housing itself. The inside is fairly smooth with the original finish in the Aluminum. However, there is one place that looks like longitudinal scrapes. Might be where somebody in the past pushed a sharp object through. May also be exfoliation corrosion. It's not bad but I can feel it with my finger:
I am tempted to keep the housing and only go with new internal components but always appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Jim
On 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
| Quote: | Jim, I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give me a call 509-826-4610
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim(at)jimivey.com (jim(at)jimivey.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
Jim
|
--
Best, Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: Start Solenoid Trouble |
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100% concur with Jon Blake. Replace with Doug's SS filter assembly. Don't be "penny wise and pound foolish".
Dennis
From: "jblake207(at)comcast.net" <jblake207(at)comcast.net>
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:55 PM
Subject: Re: Start Solenoid Trouble
Jim, I think most of would agree, this is a weak link in the air system and should be replaced.. either with a serviceable replacement aluminum housing or even better, a stainless steel housing and steel end caps. Think about it like this… This little filter housing is sitting next to your oil tank… about 18 inches from your left leg… retains about 760 pounds of air pressure… do you really want to reinstall a housing that is pitted? I went with the stainless steel and now about every six months change out the felt filters and desiccant. Sapp has these kits for about $18; he also has the stainless housing, but I don’t remember the cost. It was well worth it for just the peace of mind. JB
From: "Jim" <jim(at)jimivey.com>
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:37:33 PM
Subject: Re: Start Solenoid Trouble
Here are some shots of the compressed air dryer assembly on my CJ:
The felt washers were kind of ugly and there was about 1 tablespoon of dessicant as seen the blow-apart. Photo. There is no question I will buy the new felt and desiccant kit at a minimum. The end caps are in fine shape. I am not even sure if the dryer assembly was put together right. On the input side there was a spring and a perforated plate followed by two white felt washers and then a couple of green Scotchbright looking washers, the desiccant, a another couple of green washers and then a whole lot of white felt washers. Those were stacked up on the exit end with a perforated plate and a small aluminum spacer bushing looking thingy. The photo below shows the approximate stack-up:
My only question is as on the housing itself. The inside is fairly smooth with the original finish in the Aluminum. However, there is one place that looks like longitudinal scrapes. Might be where somebody in the past pushed a sharp object through. May also be exfoliation corrosion. It's not bad but I can feel it with my finger:
I am tempted to keep the housing and only go with new internal components but always appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Jim
On 3/10/2014 11:07 AM, doug sapp wrote:
| Quote: | Jim, I stock a QDF-1 "service kit" which contains all the rubber seals etc., etc., however if the elec. solenoid is portion of the valve not functioning it's a waste of time and money to try to repair it.
I have new QDF-1 start solenoids in stock if it comes to that. Give me a call 509-826-4610[img]resource://skype_ff_extension-at-jetpack/skype_ff_extension/data/call_skype_logo.png[/img]509-826-4610
Doug
On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:52 AM, Jim <jim(at)jimivey.com (jim(at)jimivey.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | I had the start solenoid valve on my CJ w/M14P stick open yesterday when I started the engine. After shut-down I heard a hissing sound coming from the blow-off holes on the solenoid:
I removed the assembly and disassembled it. I am not sure if I have the original Chinese valve or the valve that came for the engine-donor Yak 52 firewall forward. Here is a picture of the data plate on top:
It was very hard to remove the fittings due to dissimilar metal corrosion. I am located in a desert with low humidity but there is obviously plenty of moisture to go around when compressing air. Here is a picture of the bottom fitting:
After disassembling the valve I was greeted with this very bad seal:
So I believe this seal is allowing air to escape from the purge holes rather than sealing up. The compressor cannot keep up with this leak and therefore the aircraft is grounded. The other seal and the o-ring look okay and the solenoid electromagnet engergizes okay. The solenoid and valve Springs were rusty too.
Any idea where I can get parts or an assembly? Thanks.
Jim
|
--
Best, Doug
After all is said and done, more is said than done."
-- Aesop
et=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List
p://forums.matronics.com
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
|
| Quote: | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-Listhttp://=======================
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| | - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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jliltd
Joined: 26 Jun 2013
Posts: 20
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| Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:14 am Post subject: Re: Start Solenoid Trouble |
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Done. I purchased a new start solenoid valve assembly and a new stainless dryer housing and internals. They were overnighted and they are now installed and everything is working fine. Doug suggested reusing the aluminum end caps on the dryer as they are in great shape and when installed with EZ Turn or Fuel Lube on the cap threads there are no concerns with galling or dissimilar metal corrosion. I squirted about 2cc's of Castor Oil in the downstream tube from the dryer. I will squirt some in the gear actuator connection ports too.
Thanks fellow listees!
Jim
| | - The Matronics Yak-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Yak-List |
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