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cpayne(at)joimail.com
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 Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 3:20 pm Post subject: Coil lead Conversion |
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Kelly and anyone else,
I have a conversion for the starting coil wire that insures a hot starting spark; and I have been using it for a several years now. Radio shielding is not required since you never have the radio on until the the engine is running. By that time,the starting coil is no longer engaged. I use solid core Packard 440 wire and some lathe-turned bits and pieces to make it work. I have not developed it to something I could market because there is nothing wrong with the stock system....if you have the parts.
And if you can't get the parts, that's when I will put something together for sale. Not rocket science, just remember that you don't need the shielding with systems off and mags off during the start.
Craig Payne
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kelmonroe(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:01 am Post subject: Coil lead Conversion |
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Thanks for the help. I was just trying to return the system back to the
stock configuration. The person that installed the auto plug conversion
removed the stock assembly and installed an 8MM lead with no nuts on either
end. Thanks again, Kelley
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 7:17 am Post subject: Coil lead Conversion |
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Craig, I think your conversion is well done, but let me offer another point of view regarding shielding. I understand how your initial thought might be: "Why put in shielding when the starting coil is not in use once the engine is running?". I get that, and it makes sense if you think the only thing making "noise" is that starting coil.
However, that really is not the case when it comes to broad band noise that is created by spark energy. You'll notice that the original Russian design included shielding and those folks knew what they were doing. Inside of the mag is the distributor rotor and the cap, along with points and mag coil itself. Every time this device fires a spark plug, there is a HUGE amount of broad band noise inside that housing. Ok.... keep that thought in mind for a second.
The wire coming from the starting coil runs INTO the cap of the mag, and it then connects to the retarded rotor point that is about an inch away from the "run" rotor point. This is like a little antenna sticking right into the noise field of the mags internal workings. That noise will couple into the wire that connects back to the starting coil and the whole deal will act like a nice little antenna and radiate energy in every direction.
Broad band ignition noise from mags is a cumulative thing... it adds up. When you first experience just a little bit, it will only be heard on weak signals. Then as it becomes stronger the noise will be heard on stronger and stronger signals, until it is so bad that you can hear it all the time, signals being received or not.
So with respect, every single wire coming into or out of a mag should be shielded. The exception to this rule is the new very high tech ignition wire used in Dennis Savarese's conversion kit. And even as high tech as it is, it does add a very small amount to ignition noise heard in a radio, and let me also say it depends on the type of radio you are using as well. For example the Becker radios are very susceptible to noise of any kind. So... good engineering practice strongly suggests that wire be properly shielded.
As regards shielding wire. If you can't find good shielding wire anywhere, then simply purchase some RG-213 coax. Split the outer jacket with a knife to get started, and then just rip it off. This will expose the coax shield. Carefully slide it off. Slide it back over your new wire in the airplane, then pull each end tight to tighten it over the wire being shielded. Put another layer on top of that just to make it even better.
Mark Bitterlich
________________________________
From: owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-yak-list-server(at)matronics.com] on behalf of Kelley Monroe [kelmonroe(at)comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2014 8:55 AM
To: yak-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Coil lead Conversion
Thanks for the help. I was just trying to return the system back to the
stock configuration. The person that installed the auto plug conversion
removed the stock assembly and installed an 8MM lead with no nuts on either
end. Thanks again, Kelley
---
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Dale
Joined: 30 May 2007
Posts: 178
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| Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 8:01 am Post subject: Re: Coil lead Conversion |
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An adapter I make to convert Taylor ignition using Cj or Yak start lead.
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dabear
Joined: 21 Jan 2011
Posts: 92
Location: Warrenton, VA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: Coil lead Conversion |
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test
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dabear
Joined: 21 Jan 2011
Posts: 92
Location: Warrenton, VA
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| Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 6:09 pm Post subject: Coil lead Conversion |
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I've been trying to post a couple messages since last Sunday. They are sent via email, no error messages, but never show up on the yak list. Did the test, so I'm using the same subject line to try this reply. Sorry for hijacking the thread....
Pilots,
I’d recommend that everyone take a hard look at how you monitor your engine. I know the Housai and the M14P(PF etc.) are strong engines and take some abuse. However, it would help the life and performance of the engine if we did a little better at monitoring. I’ve been testing a system http://www.thenewskyview.com/ that lets me see EGT/CHT of all 9 Cyl and then I can track it on the “SAVVY” website https://www.savvyanalysis.com/home to see trends over a single flight and multiple. I now have data for all my flights for the last year.
Why is it important. Well, seeing the data on a regular basis can help understand what the engine is doing when it is running right, and when something is wrong.
For instance, if you leave the prime knob cocked over you’ll see extremely low CYL temp on #9 Cyl. Just #9.
If you leave the intake drain open you’ll see the effect on the CHT and EGT.
Have a bad Cyl, Plug, wire; you’ll know exactly which one even if the engine doesn’t run rough.
Wait you say, how can a plug be bad and the engine not run rough. Well, I put in a new engine (well, 300 OH/zero time new to me) on my CJ. The engine ran fine. However I saw low CHT on 2 different CYL. Thought it was a probe/sensor. Nope it wasn’t. Changed probes, sensor wires, etc. Still it ran fine, but showed the same 2 CHT’s low. 80-90 deg F lower than the hottest CHT. Changed out the plugs, and bam I’m back within 40 deg F. While the engine ran fine, I can’t say it was good for the Cyl to do that, nor for peak performance. With the “standard” system you only see 2 different CYL (1 on the front indicator and a different one on the back cockpit indicator).
Also, run up is easy. I run RPM up to run up, then switch to Mag 1, if all EGT’s rise, I know each plug is firing well on that mag. Switch to both, then over to 2, if all EGT’s rise, All is good. It takes just a second to see if on the screen and if something is wrong, I see it instantly.
A couple of years ago on my old engine, the run up on the ground was fine. But when I climbed up to 8-9k it would have problems that I didn’t see/feel. How do I know? The engine monitor showed that a couple of the CHTs were off at altitude and when doing a mag check at Alt, showed multiple EGTs lowered (bad). Well, I replaced the original wires with the Auto Plug Conversion and it fixed the issue.
Now some folks I know with CJs are using a 9 Cyl engine monitor (little round gauge). But do you actually use it? Please make sure you understand it and what the engine is telling you. Find a system that works for you, understand it, and use it.
Point is, we use good quality oil, oil filters, and other things to care for our airplanes and engines. Will it save you money after install? I can’t tell you that but I hypothesize that it would the first time you have a problem with the engine OR if you run LoP on the Housai. My opinion is that it is worth knowing. You make the decision for you.
Thanks for reading this far.
Bear
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