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uuccio(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 12:07 pm Post subject: speedometer, not tachometer question |
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Quote: | Tachometer-measures engine rpm
Thing that measures in Km/h - speedometer (drive train rpm)
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Thanks for correcting me Raymond. I meant the speedometer.
It's a 1990 Toyota Hilux so I expect it's driven by cable not electronics (but I'm no expert here so correct me if I'm wrong).
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skywagon
Joined: 11 Feb 2006 Posts: 184
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 1:30 pm Post subject: speedometer, not tachometer question |
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Sacha,
If, indeed it is cable drive, that is probably the problem.
The cable drive interior gets dry over time and lots of friction develops.
Figure out a way to disconnect the top end of the cable and spray a silicon
based spray or similar down the interior of it.
It will take some time to work the lubricant down a tight cable.
Don't use WD-40. It congeals after time and in a long cable drive that is
bad situation. David
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uuccio(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 7:52 pm Post subject: speedometer, not tachometer question |
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Thanks for the tip David.
Knowing nothing about how these things are built I assumed that this was an electrical problem (I was imagining it was the sign of a faulty ground connection) but I guess I was a long way off the mark. Apologies for the off topic post and thanks again for everybody's help.
Sacha
Quote: | On Jul 28, 2014, at 23:29, "David Lloyd" <skywagon(at)charter.net> wrote:
If, indeed it is cable drive, that is probably the problem.
The cable drive interior gets dry over time and lots of friction develops.
Figure out a way to disconnect the top end of the cable and spray a silicon based spray or similar down the interior of it.
It will take some time to work the lubricant down a tight cable.
Don't use WD-40. It congeals after time and in a long cable drive that is bad situation. David
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:38 am Post subject: speedometer, not tachometer question |
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At 10:32 PM 7/28/2014, you wrote:
Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Sacha <uuccio(at)gmail.com>
Thanks for the tip David.
Knowing nothing about how these things are built I assumed that this was an electrical problem (I was imagining it was the sign of a faulty ground connection) but I guess I was a long way off the mark. Apologies for the off topic post and thanks again for everybody's help.
Sacha |
The warnings for WD40 are on point. This is VERY
useful product for a narrow range of applications
none of which included long term lubrication . . .
ESPECIALLY high pressure (gears and chains).
One interesting use of WD40 was in the after-dunking
refurbishment of this target . . .
http://tinyurl.com/qaxjmk9
Many missions for this aircraft were flown over water
where it was recovered on a parachute at the end
of the mission. After hoisting out of the water,
the engine was removed and submerged in a barrel
of WD40 . . . the rest of airplane's components
were rinsed off (avionics was in a water-tight
compartment), checked for operation and the whole
airplane re-assembled for the next mission. Broken
parts were replaced (missiles would often damage
parts of the airframe due to direct hits). Every
MQM-107 operations base had a 'bone yard' of targets
from which serious replacement parts could be
salvaged.
The engine would be spun up with air to clear
the WD-40 (and bits of seaweed) and reinstalled.
The airplane was ready for the next mission!
Flex drives are quite common in modern aircraft.
Most notably flap systems where a centrally mounted
power unit's energy is 'piped' out to ball-screw
actuators in the wings.
Each system designer probably has their 'favorite'
lubrication material based on temperatures, speeds
and shaft loads. A web search will produce a bucket
full of first hand advice most of which is probably
adequate to the task. EVERY kind of 'slick' stuff
has been used at one time or another on a flex shaft. See:
http://tinyurl.com/mmkushv
Checked the service manual for my '87 GMC
p/u. It says:
[img]cid:.0[/img]
In another GM service manual I found this
reference:
[img]cid:.1[/img]
Didn't find any specifics on the makeup of
this product but some inferences that it was
a special graphite bearing lubricant specific
to speedometer cables.
Flex shafts are common in single engine tachometer
drives as well. The core of the shaft can be pulled
out of the jacket. You can wipe down the flex shaft
with a rag and solvent. Flush the jacket with a
can of carb or brake cleaner squirted down the upper
opening. Follow with compress air to get it DRY.
Get a small bottle of graphite. Autoparts stores
used to offer a bottle of graphite that could
be screwed onto the speedometer (upper end)
of a cable and left in place while you "drive
some miles" with some notion that the graphite
would distribute down the shaft with time and
motion. The better technique is to squirt about
5CC of graphite into the empty jacket then
push it through with strokes of clean and
dry flex shaft.
Flex shafts with high torque on them WILL
run harder against the jacket wall and graphite
is not a high pressure lubricant. But for speedo
and tach shafts, I suspect that graphite is
never wrong.
Bob . . .
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raymondj(at)frontiernet.n Guest
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:01 am Post subject: speedometer, not tachometer question |
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I have used powdered graphite to lube speedometer cables since the '70s
with good success. I'd check with the mfgr and see what they recommend.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
The things we admire in men, kindness and generosity, openness, honesty,
understanding and feeling are the concomitants of failure in our system.
And those traits we detest, sharpness, greed, acquisitiveness, meanness,
egotism and self-interest are the traits of success. And while men
admire the quality of the first they love the produce of the second.
-John Steinbeck, novelist, Nobel laureate (1902-1968)
On 07/28/2014 04:29 PM, David Lloyd wrote:
[quote]
<skywagon(at)charter.net>
Sacha,
If, indeed it is cable drive, that is probably the problem.
The cable drive interior gets dry over time and lots of friction develops.
Figure out a way to disconnect the top end of the cable and spray a
silicon based spray or similar down the interior of it.
It will take some time to work the lubricant down a tight cable.
Don't use WD-40. It congeals after time and in a long cable drive that
is bad situation. David
______________________________________________________________________________
---
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