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yakxx21
Joined: 10 Jun 2012 Posts: 22
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Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 2:01 pm Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Can anybody tell me what might be the procedure to find a very small air leak from the main system...it goes down from 6 to 5 over 48 hours...I can't hear any leaks and have sprayed liquid on most junctions to look for bubbled but acnt see any...is there a set procedure to work along ...not sure where to start really
YAK 50 by the way...
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Viperdoc
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 484 Location: 08A
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Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 5:04 pm Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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When were your check valves on the fire wall changed?
Doc
Sent from my iPad
Quote: | On Nov 8, 2014, at 4:01 PM, yakxx21 <ken(at)aeroalgarve.com> wrote:
Can anybody tell me what might be the procedure to find a very small air leak from the main system...it goes down from 6 to 5 over 48 hours...I can't hear any leaks and have sprayed liquid on most junctions to look for bubbled but acnt see any...is there a set procedure to work along ...not sure where to start really
YAK 50 by the way...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433173#433173
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yakxx21
Joined: 10 Jun 2012 Posts: 22
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 12:48 am Post subject: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Well....I have only changed the top ( pressure release) valve....
Are there more and where are they ?? I see a straight pipe going down and maybe there are two either side of the cluster. ....is that correct and should I change those as well....?
Thanks for any info
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ronpenrose
Joined: 16 Jul 2014 Posts: 15 Location: Kansas City Metro (KLXT)
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:54 am Post subject: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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I have same problem since temperature here has dropped below around nid 40's.
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_________________ Ron Penrose
YAK-52 N352BW |
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yakxx21
Joined: 10 Jun 2012 Posts: 22
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:06 am Post subject: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not sure how to check that
also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not sealing correctly....
finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
frustrating
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ronpenrose
Joined: 16 Jul 2014 Posts: 15 Location: Kansas City Metro (KLXT)
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:21 am Post subject: Re: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Cold temperatures can cause a fitting to leak if conditions are right. Old rubber seal will get hard or a fitting may leak if it has loosened a bit. Even though the fittings are safetyed and should not loosen, I found some on my plan where the safety had not been done correctly and had some slack and loosened an eighth of a turn which was enough to cause leakage. I am going to check those fittings from the tank to the blowoff valve and Tee on firewall. I do not believe the snot valve and plumbing is a culprit since tank air pressure an plumbing is independent of that area (I think!).
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_________________ Ron Penrose
YAK-52 N352BW |
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:38 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Try this:
- Fill the main and emergency air tanks
- Make sure the main air is off
- Write down the pressure in both tanks
- Squeeze the brakes until you can't hear any "swish" when you release
the brakes.
- Let the system sit overnight or at least 4 hours or so.
- Come back to the next morning and compare the pressure in both tanks
with what you wrote down yesterday. (Note: as the air in the tanks cool
down, the pressure will drop slightly. So take that into account)
- Now squeeze and release the brake handle again. If you hear any
"swish" at all when you release the brake handle, one or possibly both
of the air valves is leaking, even when shut off. Verify which take
side (main or emergency) has dropped further than the other. That
should be the air valve that is leaking.
The snot bottle is isolated from the main air tank by the check valve.
If the check valves are good, no air can come back to the check valve
from the main air bottle. If you leave the snot bottle open and the
check valve is leaking, there will be air coming out of the snot bottle
relief end. Wet your finger and open the snot bottle or put the tube on
the snot bottle in a container with water and watch for bubbles. If you
can feel the leak or see bubbles, the check valve is leaking.
A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1
On 11/10/2014 9:06 AM, yakxx21 wrote:
Quote: |
why would temperature effect it ?....looking at the diagram it seems it can only go back to the charging point (which its not) or leak around the tank itself (cant see any soapy leaks) or lose something through the check valve going to engine driven compressor and Im not sure how to check that
also im not sure if the SNOT valve would affect it if left open----or if not sealing correctly....
finally I suppose I could change the pressure release rubber again....
frustrating
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433323#433323
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Over tightening the B-nuts also may cause the flare on the end of the tubing to crack/split. Finding these are a real pain. The tubing in the Yak's are very brittle. So if you remove a B-nut for any reason, don't over tighten it when reinstalling.
Dennis
Quote: | A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1 | On 11/10/2014 9:21 AM, ronpenrose wrote:
[quote] Quote: | --> Yak-List message posted by: "ronpenrose" <rpenrose(at)kc.rr.com> (rpenrose(at)kc.rr.com)
Cold temperatures can cause a fitting to leak if conditions are right. Old rubber seal will get hard or a fitting may leak if it has loosened a bit. Even though the fittings are safetyed and should not loosen, I found some on my plan where the safety had not been done correctly and had some slack and loosened an eighth of a turn which was enough to cause leakage. I am going to check those fittings from the tank to the blowoff valve and Tee on firewall. I do not believe the snot valve and plumbing is a culprit since tank air pressure an plumbing is independent of that area (I think!).
--------
Ron Penrose
YAK-52 N352BW
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=433325#433325
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:45 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves and back into the compressor line.
Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if it blows up.
If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
Mark
--
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dsavarese0812(at)bellsout Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 7:52 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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FWIW, the CJ6 check valves available from Doug Sapp are pretty much identical to the check valves on the 50.
Quote: | A. Dennis Savarese
334-546-8182 (mobile)
www.yak-52.com
Skype - Yakguy1 | On 11/10/2014 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD wrote:
[quote] [quote]--> Yak-List message posted by: "Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD" <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> (mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil) After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves and back into the compressor line. Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if it blows up. If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again. Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks. If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and his son, and they will rebuild them for you. That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway. Mark --
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 8:08 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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This is news to me. I'd love to see pictures of one!
Realize that the 50 used two types of check valves during their construction periods. Neither match those used on a 52. That makes no sense to me, but it is what I have seen on four of them now.
Mark
--
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Viperdoc
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 484 Location: 08A
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Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:50 pm Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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On the YAK 50, the Chinese check valves work also. Did not know about Goerge rebuilding the check valves until after I had replaced mine with brand new ones Doug Sapp.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
[quote] On Nov 10, 2014, at 9:45 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> wrote:
After a day or two of not flying... open the snot valve. If you hear a loud hiss of air, you more than likely have air leaking through the check valves and back into the compressor line.
Next, use external air to fill both tanks. Then (one at a time) remove the lines coming into the check valve assembly (described in a previous email) that are coming from the engine compressor to the check valve assembly. If you want, you can take a balloon and put it over the fitting of the check valve you just removed the line from coming from the engine, to snot valve, to check valve assembly. Tie it on there tight and leave it for a few hours and see if it blows up.
If nothing happens, you can go back to the external fill port and put soapy water there... look for air coming out the external fill port. This checks THAT check valve. You could also take off the fitting going to the external fill port at the check valve assembly and use the balloon trick again.
Realize if you have air coming out of EITHER of these, you also will a check valve bad going to one of the two AIR tanks.
If you decide you have a check valve leaking, send all four to George Coy and his son, and they will rebuild them for you.
That's a little bit of a start to get you going anyway.
Mark
--
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 8:07 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves, filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
Mark
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Viperdoc
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 484 Location: 08A
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Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 2:29 pm Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Doug's supplies are no where that expensive for the whole H.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
[quote] On Nov 12, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> wrote:
I'd actually like to rebuild the whole arrangement with western made check valves, filter, and pop-off valve. Saw it done on a Sukhoi, looked up the pressure relief valve and it retailed for $800. Wow.
Mark
--
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mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m Guest
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:53 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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I understand that Doc.
However, the western made check valves and pressure relief valves are of a much higher quality make no mistake. Having the Coy's rebuild your valves is also cheaper than purchasing them from Doug, and they do a darn fine job. That said, all of the ones I am talking about are stainless steel, corrosion proof and will outlast most everything out there. Just commenting that you have to pay a lot to get that kind of quality it seems. The other PITA issue is building adapters to go to the original air lines.
Size is also an issue. As I mentioned, I was very surprised to see different sizes of check valves (also with different thread sizes) used in two different 50's. The 1974 had a small set, the 1985 had a larger set, and neither was the same as what was used on the 52 which had an ever bigger size!
Mark
--
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Viperdoc
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 484 Location: 08A
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Posted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:59 am Post subject: Very slow air leak...how to find it |
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Agree on size differences as well as SS fitting are more desirable. Would commit to them if I had not already done them.
Doc
Sent from my iPad
[quote] On Nov 13, 2014, at 8:51 AM, Bitterlich, Mark G CIV NAVAIR, WD <mark.bitterlich(at)navy.mil> wrote:
I understand that Doc.
However, the western made check valves and pressure relief valves are of a much higher quality make no mistake. Having the Coy's rebuild your valves is also cheaper than purchasing them from Doug, and they do a darn fine job. That said, all of the ones I am talking about are stainless steel, corrosion proof and will outlast most everything out there. Just commenting that you have to pay a lot to get that kind of quality it seems. The other PITA issue is building adapters to go to the original air lines.
Size is also an issue. As I mentioned, I was very surprised to see different sizes of check valves (also with different thread sizes) used in two different 50's. The 1974 had a small set, the 1985 had a larger set, and neither was the same as what was used on the 52 which had an ever bigger size!
Mark
--
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