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dan(at)syz.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:53 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

Hi everyone.  I'm at the stage of choosing door seals and have somewhat stalled in the decision-making process, so I'm reaching out to those who've been there, in trying to make the best-informed decision.  I've scoured the RV-10 Matronics email list for the past several years to see what people are doing, but still have what seems to be more questions than answers.



I know that replacing Van's seals is a popular option.  I guess the first thing to know when choosing an alternative is understanding exactly what we're trying to fix.  My biggest question is probably - what is the biggest problem with them?  I've read that the stock seals just don't "seal" well enough.  Is this because of where the seal fits (into the channel)?  Or due to the physical nature of the rubber seal?  I notice that it quite easily "kinks", which would leave air gaps if this happens when mounted on the door.  Also, the coil I have from Vans has lots of locations where the two opposite edges in the bulb are stuck together internally (kinks that have sat that way for years).  They can probably be teased apart, but obviously, if this happens when it is on the door, the sealing factor is gone.  Alternately, if the problems with Van's seal are due to the location of the seal, obviously changing to a seal that attaches differently makes sense.  If due to kinking, perhaps a different composition of seal?



A popular option here seems to be McMaster-Carr's part number 1120A313 (also apparently the same as 1120A31), or 1120A411 - edge-grip seals with a rubber bulb.  This gets installed along the door frame instead of the door, and requires the modification that the channel (gutter) along the door frame is cut back such that the inner curve of the channel is removed so that the mounting edge is effectively co-planar with the door.  I know this is a popular option, but as I say, I want to make an informed decision.  Though I'm sure it makes a finished look, I am a bit concerned that removing the inner curve of the channel reduces the structural integrity of the cabin top somewhat (it effectively removes one of the flanges if the channel were to be considered an I-beam).  I also kind of like the existing gutter concept to the door frame minimizing the chance of water getting inside overhead.  Also, considering that this concept puts the seal on the door frame, I wonder if it would be more easily damaged and/or dislodged by people getting in and out.  On the other hand, car door seals tend to be this way, so maybe it's not a big deal.  One thing I don't understand - those seals have a rubber bulb... in which case, how do they seal better than Van's which also have a similar bulb, or is it primarily the mounting difference that improves things?



Another option that's been popular is that which was sold by rvtraining.com / Aviation Tech Products.  This was a foam-based seal that went along the outer edge (lip) of the door.  Since it didn't require modifications to the structural integrity of the door frame, I thought this was potentially appealing (plus, it feels as though a foam-based seal would be more sound-insulating than a rubber bulb).  But I say "was" on purpose - I got in touch with them a few days ago, and as of December 2014, they closed Aviation Tech Products, don't have any seals left and don't know where else they may be obtained.  So this exact option is out, unless someone has done something similar.  On the other hand, I never quite understood how the seal would work effectively along the areas of the door where there was only a very small lip available, like along the bottom.



Another option would be seal attached to the door that compressed against the existing flange of the door frame that curves back towards the door (the part cut off when using the aforementioned 1120A411 edge-grip seal).  This could be something like McMaster part 1142A28, or even a simple adhesive-backed strip like 93745K23.



If the problem with Van's seal is due to its composition, there are McMaster alternatives that have a similar form factor (and hence mounting) - like a purely foam version such as 93085K91, or even an intriguing "hybrid" rubber seal with a foam core (1141A4) that may combine the ruggedness of a rubber outer section like Van's with a foam core inside that "may" help prevent kinking and opposite sides of the bulb bonding together, if that in fact is the problem with Van's in the first place.  To me this seems like the most straightforward improvement with minimal changes to what Van's intended, but I don't know if that would be "fixing" a problem with the Van's seals that may not be the big issue in the first place.



Of course, I could just go and do what the majority are doing with regards to alternate seals if there is a majority, but I'm the sort who wants to make an informed a decision as possible.  Any feedback anyone could give on the concept would be greatly appreciated - particularly from those who have gone down this decision tree in the past, I'd be very interested in hearing why you decided on using what you have.  Then, if I decide to go with some variation of a McMaster seal, I have to tackle the next hurdle and see if I can get them to ship to Canada, which I've heard has been problematic in the past.  But one problem at a time 



Thanks!  Dan

---

Dan Charrois

President, Syzygy Research & Technology

Phone: 780-961-2213

speckter(at)comcast.net
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:45 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

I know that staying with the Vans seals is not the popular choice but I have been quite happy with them and I have a good seal all around 



I had the McMaster seals on my Glasair and they are not without their own problems. They shrink over time and leave a 1" gap at the joint. Additionally they are not water tight. The water seeps in around the clip. To make it water tight you must install the clip with silicone caulk. Plus all the grinding and building up on the lip. 



So, each has issues so pick your poison. 



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Feb 12, 2015, at 4:50 PM, Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> wrote:

 

 

 

 Hi everyone.  I'm at the stage of choosing door seals and have somewhat stalled in the decision-making process, so I'm reaching out to those who've been there, in trying to make the best-informed decision.  I've scoured the RV-10 Matronics email list for the past several years to see what people are doing, but still have what seems to be more questions than answers.

 

 I know that replacing Van's seals is a popular option.  I guess the first thing to know when choosing an alternative is understanding exactly what we're trying to fix.  My biggest question is probably - what is the biggest problem with them?  I've read that the stock seals just don't "seal" well enough.  Is this because of where the seal fits (into the channel)?  Or due to the physical nature of the rubber seal?  I notice that it quite easily "kinks", which would leave air gaps if this happens when mounted on the door.  Also, the coil I have from Vans has lots of locations where the two opposite edges in the bulb are stuck together internally (kinks that have sat that way for years).  They can probably be teased apart, but obviously, if this happens when it is on the door, the sealing factor is gone.  Alternately, if the problems with Van's seal are due to the location of the seal, obviously changing to a seal that attaches differently makes sense.  If due to kinking, perhap!

 s a different composition of seal?

 

 A popular option here seems to be McMaster-Carr's part number 1120A313 (also apparently the same as 1120A31), or 1120A411 - edge-grip seals with a rubber bulb.  This gets installed along the door frame instead of the door, and requires the modification that the channel (gutter) along the door frame is cut back such that the inner curve of the channel is removed so that the mounting edge is effectively co-planar with the door.  I know this is a popular option, but as I say, I want to make an informed decision.  Though I'm sure it makes a finished look, I am a bit concerned that removing the inner curve of the channel reduces the structural integrity of the cabin top somewhat (it effectively removes one of the flanges if the channel were to be considered an I-beam).  I also kind of like the existing gutter concept to the door frame minimizing the chance of water getting inside overhead.  Also, considering that this concept puts the seal on the door frame, I wonder if it would !

 be more easily damaged and/or dislodged by people getting in and out.  On the other hand, car door seals tend to be this way, so maybe it's not a big deal.  One thing I don't understand - those seals have a rubber bulb... in which case, how do they seal better than Van's which also have a similar bulb, or is it primarily the mounting difference that improves things?

 

 Another option that's been popular is that which was sold by rvtraining.com / Aviation Tech Products.  This was a foam-based seal that went along the outer edge (lip) of the door.  Since it didn't require modifications to the structural integrity of the door frame, I thought this was potentially appealing (plus, it feels as though a foam-based seal would be more sound-insulating than a rubber bulb).  But I say "was" on purpose - I got in touch with them a few days ago, and as of December 2014, they closed Aviation Tech Products, don't have any seals left and don't know where else they may be obtained.  So this exact option is out, unless someone has done something similar.  On the other hand, I never quite understood how the seal would work effectively along the areas of the door where there was only a very small lip available, like along the bottom.

 

 Another option would be seal attached to the door that compressed against the existing flange of the door frame that curves back towards the door (the part cut off when using the aforementioned 1120A411 edge-grip seal).  This could be something like McMaster part 1142A28, or even a simple adhesive-backed strip like 93745K23.

 

 If the problem with Van's seal is due to its composition, there are McMaster alternatives that have a similar form factor (and hence mounting) - like a purely foam version such as 93085K91, or even an intriguing "hybrid" rubber seal with a foam core (1141A4) that may combine the ruggedness of a rubber outer section like Van's with a foam core inside that "may" help prevent kinking and opposite sides of the bulb bonding together, if that in fact is the problem with Van's in the first place.  To me this seems like the most straightforward improvement with minimal changes to what Van's intended, but I don't know if that would be "fixing" a problem with the Van's seals that may not be the big issue in the first place.

 

 Of course, I could just go and do what the majority are doing with regards to alternate seals if there is a majority, but I'm the sort who wants to make an informed a decision as possible.  Any feedback anyone could give on the concept would be greatly appreciated - particularly from those who have gone down this decision tree in the past, I'd be very interested in hearing why you decided on using what you have.  Then, if I decide to go with some variation of a McMaster seal, I have to tackle the next hurdle and see if I can get them to ship to Canada, which I've heard has been problematic in the past.  But one problem at a time 

 

 Thanks!  Dan

 ---

 Dan Charrois

 President, Syzygy Research & Technology

 Phone: 780-961-2213

bill.peyton

Joined: 19 Sep 2010
Posts: 198
Location: St. Louis, MO

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:48 pm Post subject: Re: Door seals - more questions than answers.

The Vans stock seals don't really work very well, and quite honestly, look terribly cheap, especially on a $175,000 aircraft.  The McMaster edge grip bulb seals look very professional, and do their job.  Unfortunately they also take quite a bit of work to install.  The door frame must be modified and reinforced at the front and rear frame, and the hinge recesses must be covered to create a seal.  



Having said that, I used the McMaster seals and would do it again.  They look soooo much better than the stock seal.  



The other modification that is a must, is the Plane Around door security latch. 



I also just finished installing the new Aerosport outer door latches.



As an edit.  I was my plane quite often and have never seen a drop of water get past the seals or the channel clip.  I do not have any silicone on the channel.

_________________
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC

Last edited by bill.peyton on Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:12 pm; edited 1 time in total

dmaib@me.com

Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 455
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 2:58 pm Post subject: Re: Door seals - more questions than answers.

I installed my own on the door frame. I don't even remember where I got them. It took LOTS of work and rework to get them right. I did try the foam rubber from Aviation Tech Products and they did not work well at all. I agree with your concerns about grinding down the door frame to install the McMaster-Carr seals. However, they definitely look great. My biggest complaint with the Van's product is the appearance. Bill P. is right. They look cheap! However, knowing what I know now, I would install the Van's seals because they work fine, even if they don't look so good.

_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2879

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:11 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

I too have only had the standard Van's seals for almost 1100 hours now.



I think all of that kinking thing is a non-issue. It'll straighten out 

and seal and

work well.  I actually think that it may be the quietest and most 

airtight way to

go.  But if there is a "problem" with the original seals, it's that the door

can be hard to close just because the seal is about as thick as you 

could put

in that gap.  The McMaster ones I've seen make the door have no 

resistance to

closing and the thing just latches.



I don't have any firsthand experience with anything but mine, and I know

others like the McMaster, so nothing against going either way.  I do think

mine seal very tightly...I get no air or noise.  I did get some 

initially up by

the front door pins, but then got it sealed up.  That seal fills the gap

completely and doesn't allow much in the way of air to leak.



I'm not sure what I'd do if I built another one.  I'm inclined to say 

I'd stick

with what I have, since it's been good.  But I'd probably go ride with some

friends who have the other and see if theirs leaks at all.  If so, I'd 

definitely

go with mine, but if not, I'd consider either.  I do like the looks of the

doors better with the seal on the door side though.  I'd rather not have the

black foam around the door hole.



Honestly, if you do it right, I don't think you'll go wrong either way.

Like you, I'd think that whatever you can do to be non-intrusive into the

structure, would be the best approach, so if you go the other way, I'd

cut the seal to fit the door channel, not the channel to fit the seal.



Tim

On 2/12/2015 4:40 PM, Gary wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I know that staying with the Vans seals is not the popular choice but I have been quite happy with them and I have a good seal all around



 I had the McMaster seals on my Glasair and they are not without their own problems. They shrink over time and leave a 1" gap at the joint. Additionally they are not water tight. The water seeps in around the clip. To make it water tight you must install the clip with silicone caulk. Plus all the grinding and building up on the lip.



 So, each has issues so pick your poison.

kdb.rv10(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:56 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

I installed Van's seals and absolutely could not close the door. I pushed from the outside but it would not completely close. It all depends on how deep you set the door; since I wanted mine to be flush, I suppose it sets deeper than Van's. On Van's factory plane it works great, but not on mine. So, I took Van's seals off and installed the McMaster- Carr seal. It was a lot of work, but it completely seals and the door closes just right. If I were building another plane, that's what I'd use without another thought.....



Kevin Belue



Sent from my iPhone



On Feb 12, 2015, at 3:50 PM, Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Hi everyone.  I'm at the stage of choosing door seals and have somewhat stalled in the decision-making process, so I'm reaching out to those who've been there, in trying to make the best-informed decision.  I've scoured the RV-10 Matronics email list for the past several years to see what people are doing, but still have what seems to be more questions than answers.

 

 I know that replacing Van's seals is a popular option.  I guess the first thing to know when choosing an alternative is understanding exactly what we're trying to fix.  My biggest question is probably - what is the biggest problem with them?  I've read that the stock seals just don't "seal" well enough.  Is this because of where the seal fits (into the channel)?  Or due to the physical nature of the rubber seal?  I notice that it quite easily "kinks", which would leave air gaps if this happens when mounted on the door.  Also, the coil I have from Vans has lots of locations where the two opposite edges in the bulb are stuck together internally (kinks that have sat that way for years).  They can probably be teased apart, but obviously, if this happens when it is on the door, the sealing factor is gone.  Alternately, if the problems with Van's seal are due to the location of the seal, obviously changing to a seal that attaches differently makes sense.  If due to kinking, perhap!

 s a different composition of seal?

 

 A popular option here seems to be McMaster-Carr's part number 1120A313 (also apparently the same as 1120A31), or 1120A411 - edge-grip seals with a rubber bulb.  This gets installed along the door frame instead of the door, and requires the modification that the channel (gutter) along the door frame is cut back such that the inner curve of the channel is removed so that the mounting edge is effectively co-planar with the door.  I know this is a popular option, but as I say, I want to make an informed decision.  Though I'm sure it makes a finished look, I am a bit concerned that removing the inner curve of the channel reduces the structural integrity of the cabin top somewhat (it effectively removes one of the flanges if the channel were to be considered an I-beam).  I also kind of like the existing gutter concept to the door frame minimizing the chance of water getting inside overhead.  Also, considering that this concept puts the seal on the door frame, I wonder if it would !

 be more easily damaged and/or dislodged by people getting in and out.  On the other hand, car door seals tend to be this way, so maybe it's not a big deal.  One thing I don't understand - those seals have a rubber bulb... in which case, how do they seal better than Van's which also have a similar bulb, or is it primarily the mounting difference that improves things?

 

 Another option that's been popular is that which was sold by rvtraining.com / Aviation Tech Products.  This was a foam-based seal that went along the outer edge (lip) of the door.  Since it didn't require modifications to the structural integrity of the door frame, I thought this was potentially appealing (plus, it feels as though a foam-based seal would be more sound-insulating than a rubber bulb).  But I say "was" on purpose - I got in touch with them a few days ago, and as of December 2014, they closed Aviation Tech Products, don't have any seals left and don't know where else they may be obtained.  So this exact option is out, unless someone has done something similar.  On the other hand, I never quite understood how the seal would work effectively along the areas of the door where there was only a very small lip available, like along the bottom.

 

 Another option would be seal attached to the door that compressed against the existing flange of the door frame that curves back towards the door (the part cut off when using the aforementioned 1120A411 edge-grip seal).  This could be something like McMaster part 1142A28, or even a simple adhesive-backed strip like 93745K23.

 

 If the problem with Van's seal is due to its composition, there are McMaster alternatives that have a similar form factor (and hence mounting) - like a purely foam version such as 93085K91, or even an intriguing "hybrid" rubber seal with a foam core (1141A4) that may combine the ruggedness of a rubber outer section like Van's with a foam core inside that "may" help prevent kinking and opposite sides of the bulb bonding together, if that in fact is the problem with Van's in the first place.  To me this seems like the most straightforward improvement with minimal changes to what Van's intended, but I don't know if that would be "fixing" a problem with the Van's seals that may not be the big issue in the first place.

 

 Of course, I could just go and do what the majority are doing with regards to alternate seals if there is a majority, but I'm the sort who wants to make an informed a decision as possible.  Any feedback anyone could give on the concept would be greatly appreciated - particularly from those who have gone down this decision tree in the past, I'd be very interested in hearing why you decided on using what you have.  Then, if I decide to go with some variation of a McMaster seal, I have to tackle the next hurdle and see if I can get them to ship to Canada, which I've heard has been problematic in the past.  But one problem at a time 

 

 Thanks!  Dan

 ---

 Dan Charrois

 President, Syzygy Research & Technology

 Phone: 780-961-2213

Bob Turner

Joined: 03 Jan 2009
Posts: 885
Location: Castro Valley, CA

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:23 pm Post subject: Re: Door seals - more questions than answers.

Put me into the "Vans original" camp.

Yes, they look cheap.

Yes, after endless sanding and fitting it is dis-heartening to find you have to sand and fit more after the seals are on.

My doors are a little tight to close, so extra attention is needed to make absolutely sure the aft pin is engaged.

But I hear and feel no air leaks, no water leaks, I'm happy.

_________________
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB

Dave Saylor

Joined: 11 Jan 2015
Posts: 210
Location: GILROY, CA

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 5:44 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

I have the simple foam backed strips.  Pictures here:



http://tinyurl.com/Post-regarding-door-seals



My doors seal water and air tight.  The best part is how the door closes--no effort at all, just push the handle down.

I've replaced the seals once in 7 years.  It takes an hour or so and cost was less than $20.

Don't be dismayed if the door seems hard to close on the first try.  Let it sit for a few hours and the foam takes as set at zero clearance.  Then the doors open and close easily.

--Dave

On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 1:50 PM, Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com (dan(at)syz.com)> wrote:

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Dan Charrois <dan(at)syz.com (dan(at)syz.com)>

 

 Hi everyone.  I'm at the stage of choosing door seals and have somewhat stalled in the decision-making process, so I'm reaching out to those who've been there, in trying to make the best-informed decision.  I've scoured the RV-10 Matronics email list for the past several years to see what people are doing, but still have what seems to be more questions than answers.

 

 I know that replacing Van's seals is a popular option.  I guess the first thing to know when choosing an alternative is understanding exactly what we're trying to fix.  My biggest question is probably - what is the biggest problem with them?  I've read that the stock seals just don't "seal" well enough.  Is this because of where the seal fits (into the channel)?  Or due to the physical nature of the rubber seal?  I notice that it quite easily "kinks", which would leave air gaps if this happens when mounted on the door.  Also, the coil I have from Vans has lots of locations where the two opposite edges in the bulb are stuck together internally (kinks that have sat that way for years).  They can probably be teased apart, but obviously, if this happens when it is on the door, the sealing factor is gone.  Alternately, if the problems with Van's seal are due to the location of the seal, obviously changing to a seal that attaches differently makes sense.  If due to kinking, perhap!

  s a different composition of seal?

 

 A popular option here seems to be McMaster-Carr's part number 1120A313 (also apparently the same as 1120A31), or 1120A411 - edge-grip seals with a rubber bulb.  This gets installed along the door frame instead of the door, and requires the modification that the channel (gutter) along the door frame is cut back such that the inner curve of the channel is removed so that the mounting edge is effectively co-planar with the door.  I know this is a popular option, but as I say, I want to make an informed decision.  Though I'm sure it makes a finished look, I am a bit concerned that removing the inner curve of the channel reduces the structural integrity of the cabin top somewhat (it effectively removes one of the flanges if the channel were to be considered an I-beam).  I also kind of like the existing gutter concept to the door frame minimizing the chance of water getting inside overhead.  Also, considering that this concept puts the seal on the door frame, I wonder if it would !

  be more easily damaged and/or dislodged by people getting in and out.  On the other hand, car door seals tend to be this way, so maybe it's not a big deal.  One thing I don't understand - those seals have a rubber bulb... in which case, how do they seal better than Van's which also have a similar bulb, or is it primarily the mounting difference that improves things?

 

 Another option that's been popular is that which was sold by rvtraining.com / Aviation Tech Products.  This was a foam-based seal that went along the outer edge (lip) of the door.  Since it didn't require modifications to the structural integrity of the door frame, I thought this was potentially appealing (plus, it feels as though a foam-based seal would be more sound-insulating than a rubber bulb).  But I say "was" on purpose - I got in touch with them a few days ago, and as of December 2014, they closed Aviation Tech Products, don't have any seals left and don't know where else they may be obtained.  So this exact option is out, unless someone has done something similar.  On the other hand, I never quite understood how the seal would work effectively along the areas of the door where there was only a very small lip available, like along the bottom.

 

 Another option would be seal attached to the door that compressed against the existing flange of the door frame that curves back towards the door (the part cut off when using the aforementioned 1120A411 edge-grip seal).  This could be something like McMaster part 1142A28, or even a simple adhesive-backed strip like 93745K23.

 

 If the problem with Van's seal is due to its composition, there are McMaster alternatives that have a similar form factor (and hence mounting) - like a purely foam version such as 93085K91, or even an intriguing "hybrid" rubber seal with a foam core (1141A4) that may combine the ruggedness of a rubber outer section like Van's with a foam core inside that "may" help prevent kinking and opposite sides of the bulb bonding together, if that in fact is the problem with Van's in the first place.  To me this seems like the most straightforward improvement with minimal changes to what Van's intended, but I don't know if that would be "fixing" a problem with the Van's seals that may not be the big issue in the first place.

 

 Of course, I could just go and do what the majority are doing with regards to alternate seals if there is a majority, but I'm the sort who wants to make an informed a decision as possible.  Any feedback anyone could give on the concept would be greatly appreciated - particularly from those who have gone down this decision tree in the past, I'd be very interested in hearing why you decided on using what you have.  Then, if I decide to go with some variation of a McMaster seal, I have to tackle the next hurdle and see if I can get them to ship to Canada, which I've heard has been problematic in the past.  But one problem at a time 

 

 Thanks!  Dan

 ---

 Dan Charrois

 President, Syzygy Research & Technology

 Phone: 780-961-2213

 

 

 

 ===========

 -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

  FORUMS -

 _blank">http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 b Site -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 [b]

_________________
--Dave
KWVI

Kelly McMullen

Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 6:29 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

Another option that I haven't heard mentioned. www.aircraftdoorseals.com



Similar to what was previously offered by rvtraining.com, however, uses a proprietary foam that compresses as much as needed and mostly stays compressed after first 24 hours. I have their product on my Mooney, and it works quite well. I believe they will sell you whatever length you need. Not cheap. On certified plane kit is typically $130 for door seal. Don't know if they discount for experimental.

On Thu, Feb 12, 2015 at 6:23 PM, Bob Turner <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu (bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu)> wrote:

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob Turner" <bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu (bobturner(at)alum.rpi.edu)>

 

 Put me into the "Vans original" camp.

 Yes, they look cheap.

 Yes, after endless sanding and fitting it is dis-heartening to find you have to sand and fit more after the seals are on.

 My doors are a little tight to close, so extra attention is needed to make absolutely sure the aft pin is engaged.

 But I hear and feel no air leaks, no water leaks, I'm happy.

 

 --------

 Bob Turner

 RV-10 QB

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=438286#438286

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ===========

 -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

 ===========

  FORUMS -

 _blank">http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 b Site -

           -Matt Dralle, List Admin.

 target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 [b]

_________________
Kelly McMullen
A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor
KCHD

dan(at)syz.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:39 pm Post subject: Door seals - more questions than answers.

 	  Quote: 	
		   Hi everyone.  I'm at the stage of choosing door seals and have somewhat stalled in the decision-making process, so I'm reaching out to those who've been there, in trying to make the best-informed decision.  I've scoured the RV-10 Matronics email list for the past several years to see what people are doing, but still have what seems to be more questions than answers.

 


	


Thanks, everyone, for your incredibly useful feedback with regards to my query about door seals.  Like most other things in homebuilding, there are lots of different ways to do things, all with good and compelling reasons to choose them.



One thing that did surprise me is how many people commented on continuing to use Van's original seals - from past comments here, it seemed that everybody was changing out their seals.  But I guess, a lot of discussion here naturally tends to where we deviate from the plans as opposed to where we follow them - there's more to talk about 



In any case, I feel like I'm going into this particular decision with a lot more information than I had before.  Thanks again!



Dan

---

Dan Charrois

President, Syzygy Research & Technology

Phone: 780-961-2213

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